Mechanics -- A Little Help Please?

[Nick1911]

Actually, I think IAT's are pretty easy to test.

The resistance across them varies with temperature, I believe.  The repair manual should spec a test procedure.

[CNYCacher]

When a code is thrown, it doesn't automatically mean the sensor is bad, it means the condition it is sensing is out of specification.

I suppose his local temperature could be outside of anything expected by the engineers who built the car. . .

[Tuco]

....or the airbox has a leak and is letting hot air off the exhaust manifold into the feed, or there is a trottle body obstruction causing a backup (unlikely) or the sensor is caked with crud and getting false readings or, OR, the sensor might be bad.
 

This is all in good fun - the only way to deal with this crap and stay sane.

FWIW, My car died on Saturday afternoon and got a ride home on a flatbed.  I hopped hauled my broken butt into it this morning to see if it would start (to move it over a bit) - fired right up.

I'm thinking a crankshaft position sensor, that is a magnetic sensor adjacent to the flywheel - usually the harness gets cooked and causes intermittant failures - only way to test one is an oscillioscope. 
Chances are that if there is any sign of wear or heat damage - Yep, throw a part at it - or maybe rebuild the harness!?!?

[Nick1911]

....or the airbox has a leak and is letting hot air off the exhaust manifold into the feed, or there is a trottle body obstruction causing a backup (unlikely) or the sensor is caked with crud and getting false readings or, OR, the sensor might be bad.
 

This is all in good fun - the only way to deal with this crap and stay sane.

FWIW, My car died on Saturday afternoon and got a ride home on a flatbed.  I hopped hauled my broken butt into it this morning to see if it would start (to move it over a bit) - fired right up.

I'm thinking a crankshaft position sensor, that is a magnetic sensor adjacent to the flywheel - usually the harness gets cooked and causes intermittant failures - only way to test one is an oscillioscope. 
Chances are that if there is any sign of wear or heat damage - Yep, throw a part at it - or maybe rebuild the harness!?!?

Pontiac grand am by chance?

[Tuco]

Nope,
1997 Land Rover Discovery.

BTW, according to a message board posting the CkPS CAN be tested with a magnet and a volt meter, and a temperature meter can be tested wtih an ohmmeter and a pot of boiling water and a galss of ice water.

[Ben]

Well, problem solved, no thanks to my boneheadedness.

It was bugging me today, so on my way to get take-out for lunch, I first cleared the code, then drove to the diner. Got there, got my lunch, got back in and started the car, and the CEL was back. Got back to the parking lot at work, popped the engine cowling thingy and started tracing stuff again, then realized what I thought was the IAT was not. I found this out because as I was checking connections, I found one that was not completely locked in. Once I saw the IAT, it was obvious. I pressed the plug all the way down, cleared the code, and the CEL hasn't come back after several starts and stops of the engine.

Guess I'll know for sure in the next couple of days, but as of now, looks like all is well.

Thanks again for all the help everyone!

[280plus]

DOH!! 

[Tuco]

YESSSSSSssssssssss. 
You win, sir!