Post by: Stand_watie on March 18, 2006, 06:15:10 PM
Anybody have good display suggestions as to the best way to hang this that will show it off at it's nicest profile? I'd like the blade to show, but then again, the scabbord is really pretty.
Incidentally, did you know that even (some) 35 year men, when they buy their first sword get the difficult-to-resist impulse to try it out in the parking lot on a bush? Fortunately I resisted, or you'd be seeing me on cops, but there's something about 36 inches of shiny steel that make you want to hop around and shout 'h'yaahhhh!!!' while chopping something. Maybe I've read too much Tolkien and that's just me. Never mind that part. I'll probably break something here in the house before the evening is through though.
Post by: Azrael256 on March 18, 2006, 07:05:56 PM
I have always liked to display edged weapons either on some kind of sheild (preferably with a coat of arms), or just plainly on the wall horizontally. With European style swords, you can get away with vertical, especially if you have a whole bunch of them laid in an arc with the points all pointed at the same spot or the blades crossed. I would go with a couple of nails, maybe period style (or that looks period... some period other than right now will do. Think rough, iron, and square.). You'll need several more to make it look right. A lone sword can only hang on the wall by itself if you've spent your life laying low your foes with it and have now retired. By the way, swords are an addiction, too.
Post by: Tallpine on March 19, 2006, 07:16:22 AM
I've heard that most "decorative" swords will break off at the grip if you actually try to chop anything with it.
Post by: Werewolf on March 19, 2006, 07:32:04 AM
Quote from: Tallpine
What does one have to spend to actually buy a usable sword? (not that I would know how to use it anyway)
I've heard that most "decorative" swords will break off at the grip if you actually try to chop anything with it.
I've looked into this (on the internet) - about 2 years ago so I don't remember the manufacturers.I've heard that most "decorative" swords will break off at the grip if you actually try to chop anything with it.
Weapon's grade swords will run from $300 to well into the thousands. European style weapons grade i.e. broadswords, long swords, rapiers, bastard blades, claymore's etc are the least expensive while the oriental blades are the most. I do remember that Cold Steel offers a variety of weapons grade (so they say) European style swords starting in the low 200's. I wouldn't trust their oriental blades though - just my opinion.
A genuine Samurai blade made in the heyday of the art (about 1200 AD thru 1650 AD) can run from 4 or 5 thousand all the way up to the hundreds of thousands of dollars and are as good today as the day they were made.
Many will disagree but I consider the samurai swords (kitanas, tanto's etc) the finest blades ever made. It could take up to a year to make one what with the constant folding, hammering and refolding. Then when the blade was done putting a variable temper on it. Pure works of 100% functional art.
Post by: ...has left the building. on March 19, 2006, 07:33:30 AM
Tallpine- The minimum normally starts at $200, with the Paul Chen Practical Katana.
Post by: Werewolf on March 19, 2006, 07:37:53 AM
Quote
Tallpine- The minimum normally starts at $200, with the Paul Chen Practical Katana.
FWIW it is my understanding that the Paul Chen blades are really just practice blades and are designed to do the cutting exercises. Blade on Blade I've read that they don't stand up to the beating very well.
Post by: Trebor on March 19, 2006, 11:41:51 AM
Post by: Strings on March 19, 2006, 01:15:14 PM
"decorative" rapier that is perfectly tempered, with a narrow tang. In a broadsword, I'd be leary of breaking off the hilt, but the style of combat the rapier was designed for would be fine with this piece...
Post by: Silver Bullet on March 19, 2006, 04:01:36 PM
Post by: Strings on March 19, 2006, 04:16:25 PM
I have to think you haven't seen some of the classical rapiers out there then... Arms & Armor
Post by: Harold Tuttle on March 20, 2006, 03:26:06 AM
http://www.deepeeka.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=27
i bought this one many years ago:
http://www.deepeeka.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3249
after some time with Mr Arc Welder, it now has a solid hilt
Post by: RaggedClaws on March 20, 2006, 07:00:24 AM
The biggest thing to keep in mind when looking for a "real" sword is to AVOID STAINLESS STEEL. Stainless steel is far too brittle for a sword, and a sword (or sword-like-object) made out of stainless steel will definitely fracture when you hit something with it. A real sword needs to bend and flex.
You can get a nice Del Tin or Cold Steel for around $300 unless the prices have risen greatly in the last couple of years. For that price, you can often find an actual late 19th century or early 20th century military sabre. Just make sure that it is not dress blade, which are usually slimmer, more flimsy, and chromed.
Post by: Guest on March 20, 2006, 07:07:10 AM
Hi'Yaaahhh!
Post by: Strings on March 20, 2006, 07:10:50 AM
that's gonna kind of depend on the stainless you're talking about, what it's Rockwell is, and a host of other things...
For a LONG time (may even still do it), many knife makers talked about their great "440C, high carbon steel". Problem: the "C" stands for "chromium", and there's 0 carbon in the stuff. Even brought a chcmical analysis into a local cutlery shop, to prove my contention...
Post by: Guest on March 20, 2006, 07:49:03 AM
"Grade 440C is capable of attaining, after heat treatment, the highest strength, hardness and wear resistance of all the stainless alloys. Its very high carbon content is responsible for these characteristics, which make 440C particularly suited to such applications as ball bearings and valve parts."
Post by: Strings on March 20, 2006, 09:34:25 AM
'Course, that COULD mean that 440C means different things from different companies.
And, although not good for swords, a WONDERFUL steel for knives is D2. Bear in mind, it starts life at a Rockwell harder than most steels AFTER tempering (and, as a result, is an absolute bear to work with)...
Post by: Guest on March 20, 2006, 11:56:49 AM
I like D2, also!
Post by: S. Williamson on March 20, 2006, 04:27:55 PM
Their 18" WW2 model.
As for swords, though...
The Cold Steel Chinese War sword.
Post by: Harold Tuttle on March 20, 2006, 06:47:52 PM
i love my Uncle Bill special WWII Khuk
Post by: brimic on March 21, 2006, 12:15:10 AM
Cheap swords breaking off ar the hilt? One of my college roommates bought a katana- I think he said he paid $250-300 for it. We we screwing around with it one day chopping pumpkins, full soda cans, and other assorted crap with it. On probably about the 6th swing the sword had taken, the blade broke off about 4" from the hilt and went flinging dangerously and almost hit another roommate. Total POS.
Post by: RaggedClaws on March 21, 2006, 04:08:20 AM