Need DFW or Central Texas Gunsmith Recommendations to Un-Bubba a Boo Boo

[SADShooter]

So, I have once again been reminded that I am as mechanically adept as a blind, three-limbed wombat with Aspergers. (Or perhaps less. )

In making what should have been a fairly simple part swap in a new 1911, I have locked up the fire controls. I was replacing the mainspring housing, and I think the hammer strut or spring were misaligned, and I can't remove the housing..

I contacted one smith, Ken Crawley, who responded he was so busy it would be months before he took on work.

Anyone in the DFW/Austin/San Antonio areas have a suggestion for a reliable gunsmith? I know of Alan Tillman in Austin and Alex Hamilton is San Antonio. Time and expense are less important than avoiding a butcher.

Thanks,

SADShooter

[dogmush]

Take it apart. Pull the grip safety, thumb safety, search and hammer pins, and pull the hammer out. That should unbind anything bound.

What did you swap?

[SADShooter]

Take it apart. Pull the grip safety, thumb safety, search and hammer pins, and pull the hammer out. That should unbind anything bound.

What did you swap?

I can't. The replacement Hogue aluminum arched mainspring housing (flat plastic OEM part) is seated firmly and I can't budge it, so I can't access any of the other controls as you suggest. There's slight play in the hammer and safeties.  I tapped on the housing to seat it and I think the strut wasn't in the pocket. I suspect the only solution may be to break the MSH, which I don't think I can do without causing frame damage. When I said it was a Bubba  move I wasn't kidding.

[dogmush]

Am confused. The MSH doesn't do that.

Slide is off, right? Pull thumb safety. Grip safety will be loose, but stay in frame (if beavertail). Pull back on hammer a bit. Then while holding hammer, push sear pin out. Hammer can now go forward, and sear is loose in frame. Ignore for a sec. Then pull hammer pin. Pull hammer and strut out the top of frame. Now there is no pressure on mainspring. If MSH is still stuck, put mag well on your bench and tap out MSH with a brass drift.

That'll get the pressure off the MSH. If the issue is it's badly fit to the frame, some tapping  will be needed. If you have a beavertail grip safety it will be locked in the frame by the MSH and the back of the frame. A flat screwdriver between the two and some careful twisting should push the MSH out enough to pull the beavertail and then you can knock the MSH out with a drift. A GI grip safety will (IIRC) be wiggled out with the MSH in place.

If you want to post a pic or two I can draw a picture.

Either way no need for an overpriced smith.

[SADShooter]

I will see if I can lever the MSH down. It's very tight now without much clearance from the grip safety.

[dogmush]

I will see if I can lever the MSH down. It's very tight now without much clearance from the grip safety.

Once you pull the thumb safety, the grip safety has a lot more wiggle.

[roo_ster]

Can't find a decent gunsmith in DFW.  Will send my 1911 back to S&W to fix what a ham-fisted dremel jockey calling himself a gunsmith did to it when I save up the discretionary funds.

[KD5NRH]

Not exactly close to DFW, (about an hour west of FW) but Roger Shumaker at Star Arms between Stephenville and Dublin is pretty highly regarded as a 1911 smith.  He did a $40 trigger job for me that took a NG issue 1911A1 from 6-10lb inconsistent pull to 4.3-4.6lb every time.  He's also one of two guys around here that can do nearly anything that needs to be done to a deer rifle, so expect a little delay around any hunting season.

http://stararmsllctx.com/

[brimic]

Bigger hammer- if it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.