Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Declaration Day on April 09, 2010, 12:24:14 PM
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I have a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD. The anti-lock brake module is leaking. It's a slow leak, but I have to bleed out the front calipers every 3-4 days, because it is letting air in the front half of the system.
I've called all the local auto parts stores, and none of them can get the abs module. It appears to be a dealer part, and probably costs a fortune. This truck is not my pride and joy; it's a work vehicle and I just want to keep it operating safely, and as cheaply as reasonably possible. I don't like buying mechanical parts from a junkyard, and even if I did the nearest one is about 20 miles away.
The vast majority of vehicles I've owned haven't had ABS. I don't need it. So I am thinking about simply bypassing the ABS module.
The module has two input lines coming from the master cylinder. One for the front wheels, one for the rear wheels. It has three output lines. One services both rear wheels, and there's a separate one for each front wheel. I have already identified each line's function.
I am thinking of buying one fitting to connect the line coming from the master cylinder to the single line running to the rear wheels, and a 3-way T connector to connect the front input line to the two separate output lines that run to each front wheel.
Does anybody see a problem with doing this? Any other advice?
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I don't see a problem with it, unless there is some kind of balancing valve, or restriction orifices built into the ABS unit.
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You might need to remove the ABS fuse too, so the computer knows it has been disabled. (I do that in my truck in the winter anyway, it's about time to put it back for the summer)
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I just called a Chevy dealer. That module costs $557. :O
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Ok, I just spoke to a trusted mechanic who told me I cannot do that. The ABS module contains proportioning valves. Not having them = bad.
I guess I'll just have to live with bleeding out my front brakes frequently, for now. =|
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Ok, I just spoke to a trusted mechanic who told me I cannot do that. The ABS module contains proportioning valves. Not having them = bad.
I guess I'll just have to live with bleeding out my front brakes frequently, for now. =|
They've had those proportioning valves for a long long time. I think my 1976 has it.
I wonder if you could substitute a p-valve from a pre-ABS GM pickup ...? =|
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Exactly where is the valve leaking? Maybe it's fixable.
Brad
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Exactly where is the valve leaking? Maybe it's fixable.
Brad
I'm trying to determine exactly where the leak is coming from. I hosed the unit down with brake parts cleaner and will go back out there in a bit to inspect it.
In the mean time, thank God for Speed Bleeders. They're a bit pricey, but worth it.
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Ok, I just spoke to a trusted mechanic who told me I cannot do that. The ABS module contains proportioning valves. Not having them = bad.
Can't imagine in what way. Aside from ABS functioning independently on the fronts.
Although, I seem to remember non-ABS vehicles usually having separate lines for the front coming right off of the master cylinder, so perhaps there is a trick to it.
The only essential brake-proportioning I know of is you can't apply more brake to the rear than the front. If the rears lock up you are in big trouble.
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The only essential brake-proportioning I know of is you can't apply more brake to the rear than the front. If the rears lock up you are in big trouble.
And that is the function that a proportioning valve serves.
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Ok, I just spoke to a trusted mechanic who told me I cannot do that. The ABS module contains proportioning valves. Not having them = bad.
I guess I'll just have to live with bleeding out my front brakes frequently, for now. =|
I would physically remove the ABS module and plumb new hard lines directly from the master cylinder to the front wheels and to the flex hose on the rear axle. My pickup truck had a proportioning valve for the rear. It exploded in a panic stop several years ago, and since the truck was almost 20 years old at the time no replacement was available. I eliminated in completely and I don't notice any problems due to lack of proportioning. In fact, the brakes work better now than they ever did.
Dump the ABS. If you find that the rear brakes consistently lock up prematurely, you can get a Wilwood manually adjustable proportioning valve from a local speed shop or on-line from Summit Racing and add that to the hard line going to your rear wheels. The Wilwood valve (if you decide you need it) should cost you about $75.
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https://www.partrequest.com/
Looks like ~$200 here:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1431132,parttype,1592,a,www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B2005%2BCHEVROLET%2BSILVERADO%2B2500%2BHD%2B6.6L%2B400cid%2BV8%2BDIESEL%2BFI%2BTurbo%2B%25282%2529%2BOHV
Good luck.
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https://www.partrequest.com/
Looks like ~$200 here:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1431132,parttype,1592,a,www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B2005%2BCHEVROLET%2BSILVERADO%2B2500%2BHD%2B6.6L%2B400cid%2BV8%2BDIESEL%2BFI%2BTurbo%2B%25282%2529%2BOHV
Good luck.
jfruser, that might just do the trick, thanks. I am going to see if I can get a part number off the leaky one to be sure.
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And that is the function that a proportioning valve serves.
Correct, but is this not built into the master cylinder?
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Correct, but is this not built into the master cylinder?
Good question. The mechanic I spoke to said it is likely part of the ABS module.
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Good question. The mechanic I spoke to said it is likely part of the ABS module.
With separate lines coming from the master cylinder, how is it possible for the proportioning valve to be in the ABS unit?
Even with ABS, the front and back system are separate, and there will even be a baffle separating the fluid reservoir on top of the MC. This keeps a leak on the back brakes from depleting all the fluid in the front brakes (or vice versa).
If there is a proportioning valve in the ABS unit, I suspect that it is some sort of controlled valve that allows the ABS system to continue braking one front wheel while it decreases the brake pressure on the other front wheel because it locked up.
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/)
Set your brake bias anyway you want to.
jim
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With separate lines coming from the master cylinder, how is it possible for the proportioning valve to be in the ABS unit?
I don't know! This is why I'm asking you guys!
The truck's brake master cylinder does have a baffle in the reservoir, and as mentioned has one line going to the rear, and one to the front. Are you saying that the master cylinder is designed to send more pressure to the front? That makes sense to me!
In any case, bypassing the ABS module will cost only a few dollars. I can safely test the truck on the streets in my neighborhood. If it does not work out, I am out a few dollars and a couple of hours of work. I think it is worth a try.
So my next question is, does anyone know where I can find data on the size and thread pitch of the brake line fittings? All five of them that connect to the ABS module are identical.
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I'm not sure on the threads,may be 10 x 1.0, but I think they are still using inverted flares on the lines. You need brake fittings.
jim
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Here's the module, in case anyone wants to see what I'm dealing with:
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FDSC00128.jpg&hash=25e41f90b221e277b079910a9de3ba8054b68087)
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Ok, I've decided to attempt the bypass. It will only cost a few dollars, and is reversible if it does not work.
However, it won't be today, or this weekend. I have too much going on to be without my truck in case something goes wrong.
Thanks for all the advice. I will resurrect the thread once I accomplish the repair.
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Please do; I would probably try to bypass it just with hardlining it with no fancy proportioning or anything.
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Try car-part.com see if you can find it. Another idea is to see if you can find someone parting out a Silverado. I know you didn't want a junk yard part, but $550 is a lot of money.
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is this it (http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_15235054_ACD_ACDelco%20Electronic%20Brake%20Control%20%20ABS%20Module~2005%20CHEVROLET%20EXPRESS%202500)? $302~ will an older non abs unit fit? and how much will your insurance go up without abs? inspection problems? ???
edit: that's the wrong one :mad: $310~ (http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_15212923_ACD_ACDelco%20Electronic%20Brake%20Control%20%20ABS%20Module~2005%20CHEVROLET%20SILVERADO%20250)(google lists that one as, 2005 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500 HD Electronic Brake Control ABS Module)
edit: had an not in there where it didn't belong, [tinfoil]
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is this it (http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_15235054_ACD_ACDelco%20Electronic%20Brake%20Control%20%20ABS%20Module~2005%20CHEVROLET%20EXPRESS%202500)? $302~ will an older non abs unit fit? and how much will your insurance go up without abs? inspection problems? ???
edit: that's not the wrong one :mad: $310~ (http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_15212923_ACD_ACDelco%20Electronic%20Brake%20Control%20%20ABS%20Module~2005%20CHEVROLET%20SILVERADO%20250)(google lists that one as, 2005 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500 HD Electronic Brake Control ABS Module)
Luckily the state doesn't do inspections on vehicles here in Michigan, at least not as far as I know.
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There are no vehicle inspections in Michigan.
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I can remember removing many first generation ABS deally things of several mid 80's ford pickups.
Brakes were squishy with them perfect without without.
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Ok, time to revive my thread. I am doing the ABSectomy today. I received my proportion valve in the mail, and am about to start removing brake lines.
A full write-up with pictures will follow, possibly by this evening, assuming I don't crash and burn in a fiery ball of death during the test drive.
Wish me luck.
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A full write-up with pictures will follow, possibly by this evening, assuming I don't crash and burn in a fiery ball of death during the test drive.
Be sure to have someone take a video :lol:
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Success! Total cost, about $85 (vs. almost 600). Pictures and write up are coming, after I take a badly-needed shower.
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Good job. Glad to hear you got it working.
jim
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Ok folks, here's what I did:
These first two pictures are the ABS module. It's leaking, badly.......and costs $560.....
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00192.jpg&hash=3c549db7d5f3a66cadf8b4f23a2417c0230f9eac)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00190.jpg&hash=bdea5ed20441f954906c39e8ca652d49467eb6fa)
These next two pictures are the proportioning valve (to limit the amount of pressure going to the rear wheels), and the spot next to the brake master cylinder where it will go. In case you're wondering, the blue / red wire harness is for the snow plow.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00194.jpg&hash=13a14ad797e860554a311b2bff47bcabc44e5f90)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00188.jpg&hash=ae50a5da09676e025302eb6184cf98bd8616019a)
These are the brake lines that will be used to bypass the ABS module. The rear wheels have one input line and one output line to service both wheels. The front wheels have one input line, but a separate output line for each wheel, thus the three lines connected by a T-connector. I ended up eliminating the third line, choosing instead to attach the bottom end of the T-connector directly to the original output line. I figured the fewer connections, the better.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00197.jpg&hash=c0c6de8c013913cdd8342bc729b2c3baf539550d)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00206.jpg&hash=e54d83714b2cb9e2a565b13c9bcb329d24732d63)
First, I installed the proportion valve. I removed the rear wheel input line from the brake master cylinder, bolted it to the output port of the valve, and installed a short piece of line between the master cylinder and the input port of the valve.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00199.jpg&hash=80b1abdf1eef0cf6841946617c66917cf1610450)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00200.jpg&hash=5af40332e2b215306018f9167490e0d0e75ffbca)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00202.jpg&hash=4371694002756d4bdcab550082bf40f98ca8f6cc)
Next I removed the ABS module. First I pulled the five brake lines from it, then unbolted it from the frame (3 easy to reach bolts), and finally removed the two electrical connectors.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00203.jpg&hash=3f191438fb0748cce283ed0fe0a21ea5fb89026f)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00205.jpg&hash=e577121bb5a1fa4289be14e8ef10fc6e1bdcc1ee)
Here you see where the input / output lines used to connect to the ABS module. The front input line has a plug in it to prevent the brake master cylinder from leaking out. If that happened, I'd have to bleed the air out of the master cylinder. Not fun.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00207.jpg&hash=d3fc83b3af68187f04cfc4c4234c1c713babe58f)
Here the new brake line pieces are installed.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00211.jpg&hash=f4c89f32ebf5817b5c9d405c7a292f546b016d70)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv667%2FNorthwestLawn%2FABS%2520bypass%2FDSC00209.jpg&hash=87e5ae628fbf5a64c4f5c693ad3d0ec393785834)
After this, it was just a matter of bleeding out the brake lines, topping off the fluid, then test driving the truck to find the right setting for the proportion valve.
Most days I am just an average working-class honkey. Every once in a while, I am an average working-class honkey who accomplishes something! =D
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Whats supporting the brake lines? Being screwed into the ABS dohicky obviously supported them before but in your after picture it looks like they are just hanging there. If they can bounce around you might have other problems down the road.
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Off to the top right, just out of view, is a retaining clip that holds all 5 lines in place. And there is a similar clip about every 12-18 inches up the line. I will probably brace them up tomorrow with some thick zip-ties, just to be on the safe side. Nonetheless they are very rigid, and aren't as close to hitting something as the picture suggests.
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Here's the $64 question I have about both ABS modules and brake proportioning valves. Bear with me.
The brake master cylinder does not have a return line, as far as I know. So, when an ABS module 'modulates' a caliper/drum, where does the pressure 'go'? I mean, it would be a simple matter if you could use a pressure regulator to 'vent' some of the fluid away from the target, but where do you vent it to? If you tromp down on the brakes and ABS tries to modulate the pressure going to one of the calipers, it can't just close the connection with a valve. Nothing would happen. I can't conceive of a regulator design that can reduce the downstream pressure without having somewhere to vent the excess.
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Perhaps the ABS module has its own reservoir? The one I pulled off looks like it might.
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Here's the $64 question I have about both ABS modules and brake proportioning valves. Bear with me.
The brake master cylinder does not have a return line, as far as I know. So, when an ABS module 'modulates' a caliper/drum, where does the pressure 'go'? I mean, it would be a simple matter if you could use a pressure regulator to 'vent' some of the fluid away from the target, but where do you vent it to? If you tromp down on the brakes and ABS tries to modulate the pressure going to one of the calipers, it can't just close the connection with a valve. Nothing would happen. I can't conceive of a regulator design that can reduce the downstream pressure without having somewhere to vent the excess.
It think it pumps it back at the cylinder.
As evidenced by the feeling of the brake pedal pushing back against my foot last time the ABS kicked in on me.
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Congratulations!
Besides fixing the leak, you have now taken back the braking control of your own pickup. =)
Now, if I could just figure out how to disable the "traction control" on our little car. It will just shut down the engine half way up a hill :mad:
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Congratulations!
Besides fixing the leak, you have now taken back the braking control of your own pickup. =)
Now, if I could just figure out how to disable the "traction control" on our little car. It will just shut down the engine half way up a hill :mad:
One more reason I'm looking for a clean, low-mileage Jeep Cherokee ... withOUT ABS. In a Cherokee, "traction control" is a function of how hard I press with my right foot. Which is the way it should be.
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It think it pumps it back at the cylinder.
As evidenced by the feeling of the brake pedal pushing back against my foot last time the ABS kicked in on me.
OK, I guess that's could be how ABS modules work, since they are powered. But I'm not sure how a passive proportioning valve could work, still.
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OK, I guess that's could be how ABS modules work, since they are powered. But I'm not sure how a passive proportioning valve could work, still.
Not well at all, frankly. Since the proportioning valve on my pickup exploded and has been removed, I have MUCH better braking all the time and I'm a happy camper.
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I forgot to mention that my instrument cluster is lit up like a Christmas tree now with idiot lights. I'll pull the bulbs tomorrow!
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That's the spirit!
But might you be able to hack the old ABS module or the wires that plug into it so that it reports proper function?
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Maybe, but pulling bulbs is easier!
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Is the point of a proportioning valve that it's adjustable? If not, they could accomplish the same thing a lot cheaper just by putting smaller diameter cylinders on the rear axle, or have two different size pistons in the master cylinder and use the larger (?) one for the back brakes.
(I don't think my old 3/4 ton truck had any of that fancy-pants stuff, and it had amazingly good brakes.)
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Maybe, but pulling bulbs is easier!
Try pulling the ABS fuse first.
Brad
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Did that before pulling the module. It also trips the light. But thanks for the suggestion!
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Might do some interwebz searches to make sure that pulling bulbs won't cause other problems. In some models of vehicles yanking the Service Engine bulb can cause no end of havoc. No idea if pulling the ABS bulb will do the same, but it can't hurt to check it out.
Brad
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Well then I will remove the gauge cluster lens and put a small square of black electrical tape over each one. :lol:
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Back from the dead.
I recently bought a '96 Tahoe and the brakes ain't right. I'm trying to troubleshoot it and the next thing I'm doing is yanking the ABS. On mine the ABS module is right on the left front fender. I unplugged all the electrical plugs from the ABS unit, and when I start the truck, the only change is the ABS light on the dash doesn't come on at startup, or stay on, or anything. It's like the ABS isn't even there, as far as the computer is concerned. And the brakes feel the same. So since it's just sitting there now unplugged I'm yanking it out tomorrow.
I'm worried I may need a proportioning valve, though. What brand/type did you buy? Is it a single inlet/single outlet valve just installed on the rear brake line (I'm pretty sure from the pictures). Are you adjusting it down a lot/do you think it's necessary?
I want to get my brakes fixed this weekend but don't want to disable my truck then find out I need to wait for a valve to come in the mail.
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I don't think I needed the valve at all, but it's installed so I am not messing with it. I think I have it set at 5% or so. It is s single inlet / outlet valve. I don't remember what brand it is, but it was $45 from Summit Racing and it showed up in the mail the next day.
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One more reason I'm looking for a clean, low-mileage Jeep Cherokee ... withOUT ABS. In a Cherokee, "traction control" is a function of how hard I press with my right foot. Which is the way it should be.
http://www.quirkauto.com/uvdetail.php?VIN=19970&STOCKNUM=CB455801
Under 40,000 miles. Just about perfect shape. They're asking $7500. I'd offer $6500 because I wouldn't pay an extra $1000 finder's-fee.
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Hello Declaration Day! I have a Module that has just gone bad on me for the second time and I REALLY could use your help Please and Thank you in advance. What were the thread Pitch sizes and what size brake line and ho long? How did your brakes feel after the modification? Have you driven in the snow since the delete?
I really appreciate the help and any advice is totally helpful too. Thank you Thank you.
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OK, crazy thought, but why not trying some sort of sealant on the outside body of the valve since it's letting air leak in?
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OK, crazy thought, but why not trying some sort of sealant on the outside body of the valve since it's letting air leak in?
A full tube of silicone, followed by a roll of Gorilla Tape ought to hold it.
Failing that, you should be able to pick up an entire wrecked vehicle for $500 or less with a good module. Strip off what you want and scrap the rest to recover some of the cost.
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My '97 Subaru was reconstructed from a total loss wreck and the ABS was bypassed. Yes, the ABS light is on all the time.
But at one point I had an Audi where you could manually shut off the ABS. In testing in snowpack, I found that I could actually stop better with manual feathering of the brakes than with the ABS on.
Granted (A) the tests were not in a "panic situation"; and (B) this was a first iteration of ABS systems, so maybe they've tuned the feedback loops better nowadays, but I thought I'd mention this.
Actually, I found it better to (A) leave more space between me and the next car in line; and (B) drive 1/4 mile ahead of my car; and (C) don't drive in the snow when avoidable.
Terry, who nowadays drives like a 15 year old girl on a learner's permit, until Daddy takes the T-bird away.
REF:
https://youtu.be/JK7DA0FliIs
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Actually, I found it better to (A) leave more space between me and the next car in line; and (B) drive 1/4 mile ahead of my car; and (C) don't drive in the snow when avoidable.
So who's driving your car if you're a quarter of a mile out in front of it? Doesn't it get cold out there?
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Meh, that was just a lousy post. I found my posting quality varies and I guess I'm heading into a nadir on that. Happens when I feel "chatty" and just post for the sake of posting.
Actually, that's something I taught my sons --to not simply pay attention to the car in front of you. You have to take a wholistic attitude when driving. Like reading the pavement. You see some tire streaks? Watch it. There've been "incidents" at that point in the past, so alert up. Watch your six. And nine. And three. And especially noon.
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Meh, that was just a lousy post. I found my posting quality varies and I guess I'm heading into a nadir on that. Happens when I feel "chatty" and just post for the sake of posting.
Actually, that's something I taught my sons --to not simply pay attention to the car in front of you. You have to take a wholistic attitude when driving. Like reading the pavement. You see some tire streaks? Watch it. There've been "incidents" at that point in the past, so alert up. Watch your six. And nine. And three. And especially noon.
Smith System:
Aim High In Steering Look 15 seconds down the road ahead of you.
Get The Big Picture Look all around you too. Use your mirrors.
Keep Your Eyes Moving Don't fixate on one thing. Move your eyes about every 2 seconds.
Leave Room Leave escape/maneuvering room all around your vehicle.
Make Sure They See You Communicate with other users of the road.
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^ Very good. Encompassed in my "watch your six, nine, three and noon."
"Make Sure They See You Communicate with other users of the road."
Which is why I change lanes very slowly. I told one of my sons that "I signal with my whole car."
I have my own system of dealing with tailgaters, which I will iterate on request, but I wondered what techniques you use, Doggy Daddy.
Terry
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^ Very good. Encompassed in my "watch your six, nine, three and noon."
Terry
Thanky, but I can't take credit. Those are the "5 Keys" to the "Smith System" of defensive driving. I was certified to teach that system some years back. These days I teach another system that works along the same lines called "LLLC".
Look Ahead
Look Around
Leave Room
Communicate
I have my own system of dealing with tailgaters, which I will iterate on request, but I wondered what techniques you use, Doggy Daddy.
Terry
Slow down gradually =D to encourage them to pass. If they don't take the hint, I make sure to increase my following distance behind the vehicle in front of me so that I can brake even more gradually than normal so as to give the knucklehead behind me more reaction time so he/she won't hit my ass.
Which is why I change lanes very slowly. I told one of my sons that "I signal with my whole car."
Terry
Being a 3rd party tester/certifier, I have to recertify on a regular basis with our DMV. Part of the recert (which is done with a group of 3rd party certifiers all recerting together) is to take turns acting the part of a testee as the others all score. Naturally, all scorers should come up with the same, or close, score. When acting the part of the driver, we are asked to make some "safe" mistakes to see if the testers catch them. For me, that would include things like rolling over the sidewalk at turns, aggressively waving at attractive pedestrians, etc. One of my favorite "subtle" mistakes is to take an abnormally long time to change lanes. Like maybe a mile. Earns an "auto-fail" pretty much every time. >:D
I teach students that a lane change in a commercial vehicle should take about 5 seconds from the time you turn the wheel to move over until you turn the wheel back to straighten out.
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Keep Your Eyes Moving Don't fixate on one thing. Move your eyes about every 2 seconds.
This a good gif to demonstrate a big reason why you need to keep your eyes moving. Motion-induced blindness.
Start at the center blinking green dot, not letting your eyes move at all. After a bit you will notice some or all of the yellow dots disappearing. Usually takes 5-7 seconds for the yellow dots to disappear for me.
This is how cars traveling at your same speed can appear to "come from nowhere" when they start moving laterally.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FLYQqYxg.gif&hash=b4854d60210c5efa63e9e961970ad3375538f6da)
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Wow, someone resurrected my ancient thread, so I guess I'll post a follow-up. The bypass worked perfectly. It just drove like a vehicle with no ABS, which is perfectly easy for those of us who know how to drive. I traded the truck in less than a year after the modification, for unrelated reasons.
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This a good gif to demonstrate a big reason why you need to keep your eyes moving. Motion-induced blindness.
Start at the center blinking green dot, not letting your eyes move at all. After a bit you will notice some or all of the yellow dots disappearing. Usually takes 5-7 seconds for the yellow dots to disappear for me.
This is how cars traveling at your same speed can appear to "come from nowhere" when they start moving laterally.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FLYQqYxg.gif&hash=b4854d60210c5efa63e9e961970ad3375538f6da)
Now I'm gonna have to experiment with projecting that in front of the class. I like it!
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(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FLYQqYxg.gif&hash=b4854d60210c5efa63e9e961970ad3375538f6da)
- When I was driving down to MIL's house for Thanksgiving, I wasn't moving my eyes around like I should and I saw the car in front of me driving 20 MPH on the interstate (I was going 65 or 70) at the same time my wife yelled at me. I honestly don't know whether I really saw it, or if I would have ran into him if she hadn't hollered at me.
- I'm not quite drunk but I have had quite a bit to drink tonight (I wouldn't drive like this) and the yellow dots don't disappear like they did when I was totally sober. Not sure what that means, but it's interesting.
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My SWAGs are that either that your eyes were moving around due to nystagmus, or that the alcohol impairs the part of your brain that does the active "deletion" of visual objects it decides are low-priority.