Dead stove

[White Horseradish]

Visited a friend today. Her Kenmore stove seems to have gone TU. It shows an F10 on the display and beeps. Google says this is code for a bad temp sensor. She has replaced the temp sensor, but the problem persists.

Looking at this thing there really isn't much more to it than the sensor, the control board and the light. If it's not the sensor or the wires to it, it has to be the board, right?

Board says it's Electrolux 316455520. When I look for this number I find all manner of other brands that are not Kenmore. Seems they all come out of the same factory in China, though...

[Jim147]

Ohm the probe wires at the board connector. Should be about 1100 at room temp IIRC. Seems like F1* was a control problem and F3* was a probe problem.

jim

[White Horseradish]

Ohm the probe wires at the board connector. Should be about 1100 at room temp IIRC. Seems like F1* was a control problem and F3* was a probe problem.

jim

Both the old and new probes show about that, so I think the probes are good.

I take it there is no fixing the control aside from replacing it?

[geronimotwo]

i'm not sure if it will fix it, but i would try unplugging the stove and let it sit for an hour, then reboot.  any loose/corroded connections?

[White Horseradish]

i'm not sure if it will fix it, but i would try unplugging the stove and let it sit for an hour, then reboot. 

Tried that. No dice.

any loose/corroded connections?

Nope, everything looks tight and shiny.

[Jim147]

Both the old and new probes show about that, so I think the probes are good.

I take it there is no fixing the control aside from replacing it?

Not for an F10 error. The EOC has a checksum error or is reading something so far out of range that is knows it can't be right. I've soldered a few relays back on to get people going. I may have replaced a trace on one board with a piece of LV TSTAT wire using a small screwdriver heated with my torch in the back of a service van dealing with a very unhappy customer because not one but two of my techs had screwed up.

jim

jim

[White Horseradish]

I've soldered a few relays back on to get people going. I may have replaced a trace on one board with a piece of LV TSTAT wire using a small screwdriver heated with my torch in the back of a service van dealing with a very unhappy customer because not one but two of my techs had screwed up.
jim

Oldschool. I like it. :)

There is a control unit with the same part number and the same general appearance on Amazon for $70. It doesn't say it's for a Kenmore, though. Should I get that? Or go look for OEM?

[Jim147]

Let me check with some of my Electrolux distributors in the morning and I'll get back with you.

jim

[Azrael256]

What is the model number?  Specifically the three digits before the dot.  That will tell you who really made it.

[White Horseradish]

The stove model number wasn't obvious. The control board model number has no dots. 

[Jim147]

I just talked to the Canucks at the range factory and they say no way hoser(actually he said something in French that I didn't catch) on your part number.

I know it comes up on Amazon but I don't know where they are getting it. The model number should be on the frame inside the right of the drawer.

jim

[White Horseradish]

Here is what the thing looks like:





I am not anywhere near the stove now, but I'll see what I can do about getting the model.

[White Horseradish]

Alrighty. The model number apparently is 790.71202704

790?

[Jim147]

Eoc is 316455430
Overlay is 316220711 The white sticker on the front that sometimes gets messed up swapping it.

I can have an EOC shipping tomorrow if you don't find one closer. What area are you in? PM me. If I have a distributor in your area I could put on will call.

jim

[Azrael256]

Alrighty. The model number apparently is 790.71202704

790?

Frigidaire.  Which, iirc, is the same as Electrolux with ovens.