Chain saw experts

[Nick1911]

Wow, this is interesting:

Facts and figures about chainsaw injuries:

• According to the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission there were over 28,500 chain saw injuries in 1999. More than 36% were injuries to the legs and knees.
• The average chainsaw injury requires 110 stitches and the average medical cost was $ 5,600.00 in 1989. Data according to The Davis Garvin Agency, an insurance underwriter specializing in loggers insurance. In year 2000 corresponding costs can be estimated to be over $12,000.00.
• Medical costs for chainsaw injuries based on these facts amount to about 350 million dollars per year.
• Workman's compensation costs, based on the assumption that four weeks recovery is required, can be estimated at 125 million dollars annually.

[Nick1911]

Here's an interesting question:

Does the addition of ethanol in gasoline in the recent years have any impact on 2-cycle equipment?

[Boomhauer]

Here's an interesting question:

Does the addition of ethanol in gasoline in the recent years have any impact on 2-cycle equipment?

YES. Pain in the ass....

We've had more issues from storage/long term use than from performance. It gums up the works faster, and we've been rebuilding carbs and replacing more fuel filters (and those little weighted fuel filters are EXPENSIVE at the local stores).

So far, we find that draining and flushing the system before putting equipment up for long term storage works, and we've been buying ethanol free fuel for mixing lately.

[zahc]

Does the addition of ethanol in gasoline in the recent years have any impact on 2-cycle equipment?

Again, YES. Motorcycles too. It used to be, you bought race gas if you were serious, and used pump gas if you were a weekend warrior. Nowadays, with ethanol in the fuel, buying race gas is looking better and better. For the small amount that chainsaws use, you might want to look into it. A gallon of premix lasts nearly a whole winter anyway. Also using a metal can helps.

[KD5NRH]

Actually... does anyone have any good resources for safely operating a chainsaw?

Basic chainsaw safety summary:

• Don't cut yourself
• Don't burn yourself on the exhaust
• Don't drop a tree on yourself

[Tallpine]

Actually... does anyone have any good resources for safely operating a chainsaw?

I received some good basic instruction from my dad, but would like to learn more.  Build some good habits early on...

Seems like lots of homeowner types get injured by chainsaws every year. 

BC Foresty Dept used to publish a logging safety book.  I should still have one around here somewhere.  But it was more about falling and bucking practices, spring poles, etc.

I started out bucking up saw logs in a mill yard with a huge ancient Homelite.  Then I went to work for another guy one winter that had me following him around and de-limbing trees that he fell.

I've never really hurt myself with a saw, except for one time I was walking a big fir and stumbled, jabbing the extra long bucking spike into my knee.  It swelled up like a balloon for a couple days and I almost thought about going to a doctor, before it got better as most things do.  I did get banged on the head pretty good one time while falling in a heavy snowstorm.  There was a broken top hanging up there among the thick branches.  If I had been working for myself then like in the good old days, I would have just gone home that day instead of working in conditions where you couldn't see well. :(

[geronimotwo]

here are a couple of links that seemed helpfull.  they each have a number of links.

http://forestry.about.com/cs/chainsaws/a/best_first_saw.htm

http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/ss/fell_tree.htm

[Nick1911]

Thanks guys.

I picked up a new chain for my saw today... a rivet in the old one was starting to come apart. 

Holy hell, I forgot how well a sharp, well maintained blade cuts!   

It felt like there wasn't even anything there, even though the saw was slicing through a 6 inch branch.   

[Jim147]

Thanks guys.

I picked up a new chain for my saw today... a rivet in the old one was starting to come apart. 

Holy hell, I forgot how well a sharp, well maintained blade cuts!   

It felt like there wasn't even anything there, even though the saw was slicing through a 6 inch branch.   

If you need anything else for your saw check with Merriam Hardware. I think they are about 56th or 57th and Merriam Lane. They were my goto place for things like that when I was up in your area.

Back to the OP.

Cutting a cord of wood a year and running a mill are two completly different things. Chose one.

Then decide if your going to take care of the blade, bar and fuel. If you will get a good one. If not buy a cheap one.

I hate to see someone ruin a good saw.

jim

[Tallpine]

Thanks guys.

I picked up a new chain for my saw today... a rivet in the old one was starting to come apart. 

Holy hell, I forgot how well a sharp, well maintained blade cuts!   

It felt like there wasn't even anything there, even though the saw was slicing through a 6 inch branch.   

I've got one of those little "pocket" anvil and punch sets to drive out rivets.  Just use a ball peen hammer to put them back in.  Not pretty but it works just fine to make up chains off a roll or take out links when the chain stretches.  You do need a solid surface to work on, though.

If you get the proper size round file and touch up that chain every tank or two/three, you can keep that chain sharp.  Mostly you just follow the existing contour (working from the inside out and do all the teeth on one side and then do the other).  But if you get the saw chain teeth all tore up, then you're never going to get them back in shape with a hand file unless you are really experienced.

The other thing is that you need to change the drive sprocket every second chain or so.  The problem with that is all the consumer saws come with the "spur" sprocket that is integral with the clutch drum so you have to replace the whole thing.  All my saws always have the "floating rim" type drive sprockets where you can just replace the splined gear at about 1/3 the cost.  I usually buy a half dozen or so at a time from Baileys.

[Nick1911]

Interesting, thanks for the info. 

I'll have to pick up a file for this chain size when I have some spare cash.  Like anything else, a bit of care and maintenance usually pays off big time in the long run.

[Tallpine]

Interesting, thanks for the info. 

I'll have to pick up a file for this chain size when I have some spare cash.   Like anything else, a bit of care and maintenance usually pays off big time in the long run.

Round files are only about a dollar and change bought at the store (I used to get them for something like $10/dozen).

Maybe spring another fifty cents for a wood or plastic handle to stab on the tang.

Just follow the existing angle of the new teeth, two or three strokes each.  You'll get the hang of it. 

Actually, I've found most chains cut better after the first sharpening than they do from the factory 

[Nick1911]

Kind of a silly question, but how do I know which file I need?

I seem to recall I need a 5/32 for my saw, but I'm not sure where I'm remembering that from? 

[Tallpine]

Kind of a silly question, but how do I know which file I need?

I seem to recall I need a 5/32 for my saw, but I'm not sure where I'm remembering that from? 

Did the chain come in a box/package?  It should say which file to use.

Otherwise, ask at the store where you bought the chain.

I do have an Oregon applications book that is about 10 years old.  If you tell me the chain pitch then I can look it up.

My 3/8" (.375) pitch chain uses 7/32" file IIRC, so 5/32" for a smaller chain sounds about right.