Author Topic: Oil vacs for oil changes (Read 9602 times)

K Frame · « **on:** August 07, 2016, 09:12:26 AM »

Anyone have any experience with the ones like Liquivac or the Attwood?

Finding a place to change my oil is a pain. The HOA really frowns on doing it in my drive, but if I were to do it from the top like one of the oil vac systems I think I'd be able to get away with it a lot more easily. And the filter on the Forester is on top of the engine, which makes that even easier.

zahc · « **Reply #1 on:** August 07, 2016, 09:37:24 AM »

I used one at the marina for boats, usually Chevy small blocks. They work great if you are patient, as in, get it started and go to lunch or something.

K Frame · « **Reply #2 on:** August 07, 2016, 10:30:24 AM »

Quote from: zahc on August 07, 2016, 09:37:24 AM

I used one at the marina for boats, usually Chevy small blocks. They work great if you are patient, as in, get it started and go to lunch or something.

Any idea what brand it is?

Kingcreek · « **Reply #3 on:** August 07, 2016, 11:06:19 AM »

I posted before about mine. 5 gal bucket with lid. (I got mine free from recycling bin) few feet of pex type tubing small enough to feed to bottom of oil pan through dipstick hole. Drill hole in lid same size as tubing and feed to bottom of bucket If lid has a bung cap like mine it is the perfect size for a press fit with a shopvac hose, otherwise holesaw something to fit whatever vac you have. You are not going to suck it into the vac, just create enough negative pressure to pull the oil into the bucket. Put the collection bucket lower than the pan, turn on vac to pull oil. Once you have a siphon going just pull the vac and come back in an hour or 2.
Total cost of mine was nothing. The tubing was left over and the whole thing is reusable. I originally did it to change the oil on our crossfire but have since used it on a tractor front axle differential. It drains better if oil is synthetic or warmed up.

K Frame · « **Reply #4 on:** August 07, 2016, 01:15:35 PM »

Probably just go with a ready made one for the faster suction.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Ben · « **Reply #5 on:** August 07, 2016, 01:53:45 PM »

When using one of these, how do you assure you're getting to the bottom of the pan? I assume the commercial ones have measurement markings so that you can estimate based on your oil capacity. Depending on your individual engine though and how much oil it burns between changes, the marks might not be an accurate measure. If you have a 6qt capacity and vacuum out 5.5qts, is that because your engine burned 1/2qt, or because you didn't get the hose down to the lowest point in the pan?

mtnbkr · « **Reply #6 on:** August 07, 2016, 04:12:34 PM »

For the cost of the vacuum, how long will it take to recoup the cost of the device vs just paying a shop to do the oil change for you?

Chris

K Frame · « **Reply #7 on:** August 07, 2016, 04:25:01 PM »

I figure twice.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

K Frame · « **Reply #8 on:** August 07, 2016, 04:27:10 PM »

Plus I can do it on my schedule, not try to find time to get to a shop.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

K Frame · « **Reply #9 on:** August 07, 2016, 04:29:04 PM »

Regarding how much you get out, that is a bit of a rub.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

KD5NRH · « **Reply #10 on:** August 07, 2016, 04:39:27 PM »

Quote from: Ben on August 07, 2016, 01:53:45 PM

When using one of these, how do you assure you're getting to the bottom of the pan?

Well, for a true WTF oil change, you'll remove the drain plug to pump the new oil in from the bottom anyway.

mtnbkr · « **Reply #11 on:** August 07, 2016, 05:01:44 PM »

Quote from: Mike Irwin on August 07, 2016, 04:25:01 PM

I figure twice.

So, a year+ for cost recovery (my car goes 6k+ between oil changes and I drive it about 13k/year), but you still have to do the oil change and dispose of the oil.

Quote from: Mike Irwin on August 07, 2016, 04:27:10 PM

Plus I can do it on my schedule, not try to find time to get to a shop.

You have to find time to do it yourself though. Oil change places no longer require an appointment, just stop in.

Chris

K Frame · « **Reply #12 on:** August 07, 2016, 05:12:31 PM »

Maybe I'll just keep dumping it on your driveway.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

K Frame · « **Reply #13 on:** August 07, 2016, 05:30:03 PM »

Then again, I'd probably find it more useful, and would use it a lot more, than you used your...

Highly customized, waffle blue Ruger 10-22...

Your multitude of ham radios...

Your "OMG I'm really into ham radios!!!" license plate...

What was cost of recovery on those?

Oh, that's right, that's a hobby!

K Frame · « **Reply #14 on:** August 07, 2016, 05:38:26 PM »

OK, reason I'm looking into the pump...

1. I need to change my oil.

2. I don't like using the quick lube places. I've had bad experiences with EVERY goddamned one of them I've ever been to, ranging from WE JUST FOUND A HUGE PROBLEM THAT WILL CAUSE YOUR CAR TO 'ESPLODE IF YOU DON'T HAVE IT FIXED THIS MINUTE!!! (by the way, we have a special on that right now!) to them not putting the oil cap back on, the dipstick back in, or the aircleaner bolts back in place.

3. I like changing my own oil. It gets me under the hood of the car to see what's going on. I'll admit to not doing that often enough.

4. I like being able to pick the oil and filter that I use. Sometimes you can at one of these places, sometimes (most times) you can't.

5. I hate asking you or other friends if I can change my oil. It's an imposition, and I'm always afraid I'm going to dump oil all over your nice concrete driveway.

Regarding the "how do you know how much oil you're getting out?"

Well, most dipsticks have the "low" mark at 1 qt down. So you can gauge from there.

Plus, on my court, I can park the car at a downward angle, forcing even more oil into the front of the pan where it can be pumped out.

KD5NRH · « **Reply #15 on:** August 07, 2016, 05:45:52 PM »

Quote from: Mike Irwin on August 07, 2016, 05:38:26 PM

5. I hate asking you or other friends if I can change my oil. It's an imposition, and I'm always afraid I'm going to dump oil all over your nice concrete driveway.

Mine's dirt. Come on over.

zahc · « **Reply #16 on:** August 07, 2016, 05:49:03 PM »

Quote from: Mike Irwin on August 07, 2016, 10:30:24 AM

Any idea what brand it is?

We had two of them, one metal commercial one and one plastic. Both seemed to work fine but we used the metal one more probably because it was bigger.

You jam the hose into the dipstick hole until you feel it hit the oil pan, then suck until the hose is empty from sucking air. Not rocket science.

K Frame · « **Reply #17 on:** August 07, 2016, 05:59:34 PM »

Quote from: KD5NRH on August 07, 2016, 05:45:52 PM

Mine's dirt. Come on over.

I'll bring Mtnbkr.

He can play the banjo.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

zxcvbob · « **Reply #18 on:** August 07, 2016, 06:12:27 PM »

Quote from: Mike Irwin on August 07, 2016, 05:38:26 PM

I don't like using the quick lube places. I've had bad experiences with EVERY goddamned one of them I've ever been to, ranging from WE JUST FOUND A HUGE PROBLEM THAT WILL CAUSE YOUR CAR TO 'ESPLODE IF YOU DON'T HAVE IT FIXED THIS MINUTE!!! (by the way, we have a special on that right now!) to them not putting the oil cap back on, the dipstick back in, or the aircleaner bolts back in place.

Ben · « **Reply #19 on:** August 07, 2016, 06:58:32 PM »

One of my main reasons for asking "How do you know if you've gotten all the oil out?" is to get to something else I actually don't know the answer to. How much old oil can you leave in a modern engine and be okay? Just using my original 1/2qt example, would that end up contaminating the other 5 1/2 qts and cut down the life expectancy of the oil? Or would it not be a big deal?

If it was an older vehicle where I was changing the oil every 3K anyway, I likely wouldn't worry about it. Both my current vehicles call for 10K synthetic changes. I might not be comfortable going that long with 1/2qt of old oil mixed in with the new. But maybe that's okay. Or even a quart is okay. Or maybe only 1/4qt is acceptable.

Both vehicles also have kinda hard to get to oil plugs, and one of them has the filter on top, so I would be amenable to to pumping out the oil through the dipstick hole, since for the one at least, I would never have to crawl underneath.

Anyway, I might be making a mountain out of a molehill, but I just don't know the answer.

mtnbkr · « **Reply #20 on:** August 07, 2016, 08:19:06 PM »

Quote from: Mike Irwin on August 07, 2016, 05:30:03 PM

Then again, I'd probably find it more useful, and would use it a lot more, than you used your...

Highly customized, waffle blue Ruger 10-22...

Your multitude of ham radios...

Your "OMG I'm really into ham radios!!!" license plate...

What was cost of recovery on those?

Oh, that's right, that's a hobby!

Your hobby is changing oil? By all means, change mine while you're at it.

Chris

K Frame · « **Reply #21 on:** August 07, 2016, 09:40:08 PM »

Quote from: mtnbkr on August 07, 2016, 08:19:06 PM

Your hobby is changing oil? By all means, change mine while you're at it.

Chris

No, just commenting on your inability to focus on anyth SQUIRREL!

K Frame · « **Reply #22 on:** August 07, 2016, 09:41:12 PM »

Quote from: Ben on August 07, 2016, 06:58:32 PM

One of my main reasons for asking "How do you know if you've gotten all the oil out?" is to get to something else I actually don't know the answer to. How much old oil can you leave in a modern engine and be okay? Just using my original 1/2qt example, would that end up contaminating the other 5 1/2 qts and cut down the life expectancy of the oil? Or would it not be a big deal?

If it was an older vehicle where I was changing the oil every 3K anyway, I likely wouldn't worry about it. Both my current vehicles call for 10K synthetic changes. I might not be comfortable going that long with 1/2qt of old oil mixed in with the new. But maybe that's okay. Or even a quart is okay. Or maybe only 1/4qt is acceptable.

Both vehicles also have kinda hard to get to oil plugs, and one of them has the filter on top, so I would be amenable to to pumping out the oil through the dipstick hole, since for the one at least, I would never have to crawl underneath.

Anyway, I might be making a mountain out of a molehill, but I just don't know the answer.

You're always going to leave some oil behind. You want to remove as much of it as possible, but even pulling the drain plug leaves some behind.

KD5NRH · « **Reply #23 on:** August 08, 2016, 03:05:23 AM »

Quote from: zahc on August 07, 2016, 05:49:03 PM

You jam the hose into the dipstick hole until you feel it hit the oil pan, then suck until the hose is empty from sucking air.

That's what she said.

Quote from: Mike Irwin on August 07, 2016, 09:41:12 PM

You're always going to leave some oil behind. You want to remove as much of it as possible, but even pulling the drain plug leaves some behind.

Which is why before you pull the filter, you have to dump in a half cup of Dawn Ultra, and six quarts of warm water. Let it soak for 30 minutes, then drain again and rinse well.

Kingcreek · « **Reply #24 on:** August 08, 2016, 10:52:29 AM »

Years ago, my friend bought an old Ford Galaxy and the oil was black and dirty. He drained 3 quarts and then put 3-4 quarts of kerosene in it. Started it and ran it until it knocked. Pulled the drain plug and had to use a screwdriver to keep clearing the drain hole. stuff was like black cottage cheese. He swore by his method.
You never get all of everything but if you get most of the old and use good filters you're doing about all you can do.
I use full synthetic oil in everything and change just the filter at the halfway point.

News:

Author Topic: Oil vacs for oil changes (Read 9602 times)