Utilitarian bicycles.....

[Jamisjockey]

Not one to dredge up dead posts, so I'll make a new one.
I got my last bike boxed up today, and saw this in the bike shop

http://www.feltusa.com/products/product.asp?pid=62&catid=18,24,38

Looks like that would be the townie bike. 

[mtnbkr]

Neat.  I like it.  Price is a bit steep though.  I'd like to see it below $400.

I'm STILL drooling over those ANT bikes Cosmo posted.  I really want this:



But I'm not about to pay his prices.

Here's another neat bike link: http://www.lafetra.com/bmha/default.htm

Sorry, I didn't feel like starting a new thread and it is kinda on topic.

Chris

[Gewehr98]

What stops that thing?  Is it a drum front brake? 

[Harold Tuttle]

anyone have any experience with Fetish bikes?
http://www.fetishcycles.com/

they are 7005 aluminum
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fetish-Cycles-Fixation-Single-Speed-Mountain-Bike-Frame_W0QQitemZ200064713526QQihZ010QQcategoryZ98083QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Sindawe]

Awww geezzz.  There just ain't no getting away from you bike-British term for a cigarette, is there?

I like the looks of the MP, but should'nt it have a scabbard for an M1 Garand?

But if you like weird looking bikes, the one John Stenner rode was WAY weird looking.  I had to do a double take when I saw it the day his girlfriend rode it to work in the Bloodmines.

http://www.americancycling.org/bar-bat/history/jstenner/stenner_photo.htm

[Headless Thompson Gunner]

Progress!!  Now if only these sorts of designs would become mainstream...

I really dig that A.N.T. bike.  Simplicity to the max.  I oughta rebuild my Crosscheck into something like that.  One front brake, no rear brake.  Single speed, or maybe a Nexus hub.  Moustache bars.  Brooks saddle and leather bar tape.  That'd make for a good winter project.

 

[mtnbkr]

What stops that thing?  Is it a drum front brake? 

If you're talking about the ANT bike I posted, it's a fixed gear.  Those usually only have a front brake because your legs are the braking force for the rear wheel.  In case you don't know the vernacular, a fixed gear bike doesn't "coast".  If the bike is rolling, the pedals are turning.

I really dig that A.N.T. bike.  Simplicity to the max.

Agreed.  Unfortunately, he likes his bikes too much.  He wants $2600 for the bike as pictured.  I could have a Ti bike built for less than that.  However, I don't know where I'd source the groovy red rims and retro tires.

Chris

[bedlamite]

mtnbkr- Velocity rims are decent quality, and they anodize them in all sorts of colors, although the braking surface is usually machined.

[Jamisjockey]

Fetish are good quality bike frames. 

[Jamisjockey]

Awww geezzz.  There just ain't no getting away from you bike-British term for a cigarette, is there?

I like the looks of the MP, but should'nt it have a scabbard for an M1 Garand?

But if you like weird looking bikes, the one John Stenner rode was WAY weird looking.  I had to do a double take when I saw it the day his girlfriend rode it to work in the Bloodmines.

http://www.americancycling.org/bar-bat/history/jstenner/stenner_photo.htm

Enough of the homophobic and ignorant remarks, especially about cyclists
 

What you're looking at there is a genuine time-trialing bike.  Very specific design, not good for much else.


Oh, and as far as the MP not having a scabbard.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/WWII-M1-Carbine-Leather-RIFLE-SCABBARD-Jeep-Motorcycle_W0QQitemZ330068411007QQihZ014QQcategoryZ36052QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[mtnbkr]

mtnbkr- Velocity rims are decent quality, and they anodize them in all sorts of colors, although the braking surface is usually machined.

They wouldn't have that retro look though. 

Chris

[Headless Thompson Gunner]

You could take any old rims into an auto body shop or powder-coat shop and have them painted, couldn't you?  If you don't need the braking surface it doesn't it really matter how they're finished, so long as they're pretty.

[mtnbkr]

The rims plus powder coating will not be inexpensive.  I've looked into powdercoating for just my frame before.

Chris

[Gewehr98]

I get it!  So they're just like the bikes in the circus where the Chinese family takes a spin around the ring, all on the same bike, that pedals forwards and backwards, no coaster brake or anything.  Nifty!

[cosine]

If you don't mind me asking, about how much do you have to lay out to get a simple, strong, fairly decent quality utilitarian bike?

[Jamisjockey]

If you don't mind me asking, about how much do you have to lay out to get a simple, strong, fairly decent quality utilitarian bike?

IMHO, about $600 is the benchmark for any bike besides hybrid cruisers or BMX bikes.  Anything less than that is suspect to me.  Some of the single speed or interal hub bikes might be less than that and yet still quality, though.
That MP MSRP's for $550, and is set up with racks and a headlight already.  The only thing I'd change about it would be changing the 3 speed rear internal hub to a 7 speed or higher.

[Iain]

I really like some of those Felt bicycles. Especially the 1903.

Trouble is, I'd probably find myself attempting to stick an old long stroke single cylinder engine in it. I really like the look of the old motorcycles that were not all that far removed from bicycles, a look Felt has really captured with these bicycles.

[mtnbkr]

If you don't mind me asking, about how much do you have to lay out to get a simple, strong, fairly decent quality utilitarian bike?

For just riding around town and light trail work?  I'd set the bar as low as $300.  Back in the 90s, the Trek 800 series fit that mold perfectly.  I don't know what fills that niche today, but if you stick to the major brands and are just looking for basic transportation and light trail riding (no jumps, no obstacles, etc), pretty any sub $400 bike from the big players will work.

Suspension (front or rear) changes the equation a bit and that may be why Jamisjockey says $600.  Below $400, I'd definitely want a fully rigid bike.  Heck, based on my halfhearted perusals of the local shop, I'd rather not bother with suspension or disk brakes on any bike less than $1k because they tend to put really crappy components on to keep the price low and still get suspension and disk brakes of any quality on.  But that's getting out of the "utilitarian" aspect with components like that...

That might be why I'm still pimping my 9yo hardtail.

Edit to add: http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike.php?bikeid=1010600&f=19

Not sexy, not up to "real" mountain biking, but it'll get you to/from class/store/library and will handle bike paths, dirt roads, etc.  It's head and shoulders above what you'll find at wal-mart, target, sears, etc.  I'm not crazy that it has a suspension fork.  I'd rather have a rigid fork and slightly better components, but that's me.

Chris

[cosine]

Thanks for the help.

Could you tell me which bike you tried to link too? I just get the main page. Edit2: Never mind, I got it. I test rode the 820 a couple of times when my dad was looking at it, but I didn't like the feel of suspension, especially when I was riding on smooth pavement anyway.

Edit: I have a several year old Trek 3, but I never do any mountain biking. I do like riding it around the pavement, but it's a bit uncomfortable. I might have to see if I can change the stem for something not as forward extended, the handlebars for something turned in a little more, (I don't want to quite as stretched out; not that I mind being stretched out, it's just a little too stretched out right now), and tires for something not quite as wide. I've ridden some other bikes and it felt like thinner tires sometimes make it easier to ride on pavement. I'd probably rather do that than purchase another bike.

[mtnbkr]

Those are easy changes to make.  If you have a Performance Bike Shop nearby, they run some crazy deals, you should be able to get the parts you need cheaply.  A stem could be as little as $10, new tires as little as $10/each, etc.   Just make sure the frame isn't too big for you.  If so, you're wasting your money trying to make it fit.

Chris

[cosine]

Those are easy changes to make.  If you have a Performance Bike Shop nearby, they run some crazy deals, you should be able to get the parts you need cheaply.  A stem could be as little as $10, new tires as little as $10/each, etc.   Just make sure the frame isn't too big for you.  If so, you're wasting your money trying to make it fit.

Chris

I'll look into it. I know I can make the changes, I've disassembles bikes before to clean/grease/fix innertubes, so this time I'll just be swapping parts instead of putting the originals back together.

Is there some formula or something I could do to ensure that the frame is not to big for me? (short of having to spend money on a fitting.)

[Sindawe]

Enough of the homophobic and ignorant remarks, especially about cyclists

jamisjockey, no need to get your undies in knot.  I picked up that term you find so offensive FROM the avid cyclists I worked with back when.  Folks who would ride 20 - 60 miles daily as a matter of course and would ride from Oregon to Pennsylvania as a vacation. 

Unless of course, there is something that you're not telling us... : neener :

[Jamisjockey]

Those are easy changes to make.  If you have a Performance Bike Shop nearby, they run some crazy deals, you should be able to get the parts you need cheaply.  A stem could be as little as $10, new tires as little as $10/each, etc.   Just make sure the frame isn't too big for you.  If so, you're wasting your money trying to make it fit.

Chris

I'll look into it. I know I can make the changes, I've disassembles bikes before to clean/grease/fix innertubes, so this time I'll just be swapping parts instead of putting the originals back together.

Is there some formula or something I could do to ensure that the frame is not to big for me? (short of having to spend money on a fitting.)

You should have about 2-3 inches of clearance from the top tube to the wedding tackle when you're standing flat-footed stradling the bar.  Without a fitting, though, you're otherwise guessing on reach, tt length, etc.  As long as you're comfortable, you're okay, though.

[cosine]

You should have about 2-3 inches of clearance from the top tube to the wedding tackle when you're standing flat-footed stradling the bar.  Without a fitting, though, you're otherwise guessing on reach, tt length, etc.  As long as you're comfortable, you're okay, though.

Yep, I have the clearance. 

[onions!]

You should have about 2-3 inches of clearance from the top tube to the wedding tackle when you're standing flat-footed stradling the bar.  Without a fitting, though, you're otherwise guessing on reach, tt length, etc.  As long as you're comfortable, you're okay, though.

[/quote]

So if you have a measured 30in inseam then you need either a 28 inch or 700(ish)cm frame?