any mid 80's Chevy K10 guru's here?

[gunsmith]

 I just got gifted a 1986 Chevy K10, it still runs!!
The truck has been sitting still for 2 1/2 yrs never being turned on and the front seat is half eaten away by mice, a little starter fluid and a new batt and it kind of fired right up.

It has half a tank of gas according to the gauge, that gas has been in there for goodness knows how long.

The engine looks pretty good, I'm amazed by how much elbow room there is.

I have to install a battery disconnect until I can hire a good mechanic to fix the electric, the windows do not work and the AC is broken too - I've been told if I roll down the windows I'll have to disassemble the door to raise them ( driver side door conviently mostly disassembled )

Its lifted and 4wheel drive, with a really good camper shell i good shape ...

I've been told it get the worse mileage ever - however its FREE! and right now all I have to get around on is a motorcycle-so I do not go anywhere because its to dang cold. ...

IDEAS? Advice?

[wmenorr67]

Time and money.  Options are limitless.

[gunsmith]

well, any ideas on how to improve milage on lifted trucks? considering how awful our gravel roads and that we northern nevadans have to offroad sometimes just to get some milk , I like that its lifted and 4 wheel drive.

I'm thinking about maybe just seeing if the "local" junkyard (300 mile round trip away ) has doors that could be swapped, I like that it has roll up not electric windows.

should I add fresh gas or run that gas out first an add some more? Staple a blanket to the front seat?

[gunsmith]

is my "new" truck EMP proof? or does it have one of them new fangled computers?
gotta find a clymer or the like manual for it...what fun!

[wmenorr67]

No real way to increase gas mileage on a lifted truck.

Not sure about being EMP proof. 

Cheap seat cover from Wally World or auto parts store for the seat.

Not going to hurt to add "fresh" gas.  You are going to have to add gas to it any way and you may not want to run it too low as which you suck in extra crap into the workings.

[bedlamite]

If it runs on what's still in the tank, I'd dump a can of seafoam in the tank and fill it with ethanol free premium.

Mileage is going to suck. You said it's lifted, what size are the tires, and do you know what the axle ratios are?

[French G.]

It's at least got electric ignition and I presume fuel injection so yeah, if the zombies get an EMP bomb ur scroowed. Second on the Seafoam and running it to get new gas in it. Step one, look at anything rubber, it needs to be replaced. Hoses, belts, tires, ancillary hoses like vacuum, pretty much in that order. Replace that battery with a good one when you can. Given your living situation one spare everything and tools seems prudent. Driving regularly will cure a lot of ills.

You have the Advance Auto chain out there?

[White Horseradish]

I have to install a battery disconnect until I can hire a good mechanic to fix the electric, the windows do not work and the AC is broken too - I've been told if I roll down the windows I'll have to disassemble the door to raise them ( driver side door conviently mostly disassembled )

If the glass gets all cocked up when it goes all the way down in to the door there are a couple of common culprits. The window track can be loose at the bottom, or the stop the glass hits can be bent or broken allowing it to go down too far. Also, the regulator can be screwed up, but I'd make sure tracks and stop are OK first. The regulators can be replaced, and the track and stop need to be either welded or screwed in place. Look for broken spot welds or missing screws.

AC will be the R12 Freon type, unless converted.  More than likely the charge has leaked out by now, we are talking 25 year old rubber here. IIRC, AC stayed pretty much the same until 1994, so you might want to look at my posts on the subject, I was working on a 93. If it's been converted (look for stickers and check fittings) you might get away with just a charge.

As far as mileage, a well-running engine generally eats less than a beatup one. I'd start with the usual stuff like good plugs and wires and go from there. Also, loose/broken vacuum hoses.

I don't remember what year FI started. Might be in 88, with the body style change. So, you probably have a carburetor with all sorts of emissions-related crap.  Do you have emissions testing? If you don't, getting rid of some of that stuff might help.

[French G.]

Oh that would be horrific if it is some mutant carb with wires going to it. Or a throttle body injector. If it has any stupid crap like that find an old 2 barrel carb and transplant it. Or, know that the old carb fits already and keep it as a spare when the crap dies.

[Ben]

Plus whatever number we're up to now on getting that old gasoline out of it pronto and ensuring the entire fuel system is clean. Probably want to replace the fuel filter right after that. You should also replace ALL the fluids and filters as soon as you can. Is it manual or auto tranny?

I think you're going to be screwed on the AC. I also agree with French on the rubber replacement, especially critical hoses like for the radiator. If it's lifted, does that mean it's got big gnarly tires on it? I think from what you've said, that your roads barely meet the definition of "road" so I understand if you want more than a street tire, but if you can, at some point, put less aggressive tires on it, you will noticeably up your MPG. Sometimes you can find pretty good deals at the junkyard.

[Tallpine]

New

Air filter
plugs
plug wires
dist cap

should all help with the mileage.

It should get 15-18mpg depending on the roads and speed.

They are good trucks.  I'm looking for a 1980 or older 3/4 ton 4x4.  I think 1981 is when they changed to the aluminum chain drive transfer case, which I don't trust for anything heavy duty like pulling stumps, etc.

I had a 1980 Chev K-10 (4 speed manual) for a while and it got a solid 15mpg at 80 mph and would get 18mpg if you held it down to the then legal 55. (I did a lot of driving across northern NM back then ).  It was geared way high, though - you had to be up to about 35mph just to get into high gear, and you could easily run it 60mph in third gear (you could sure cruise up hills towing a trailer  ).

Too bad I had to sell it to finance a business endeavour.


The TBI (I have a 1991) works pretty good; it warms up fast and doesn't have any flat spots.  The 4sp OD automatics work pretty good but the old 3sp automatics are worthless in a pickup: gutless and they suck gas.

A carb & choke is more reliable to start in real cold weather, but you have to let it warm up a long time before you can move it. 

The TBI gets confused when it gets down below zero 


The standard K-10 15" wheels of that era are sorta worthless.  You need at least 16" wheels and Load Range E tires to hold up consistently on backcountry gravel roads. 

[zxcvbob]

is my "new" truck EMP proof? or does it have one of them new fangled computers?
gotta find a clymer or the like manual for it...what fun!

Probably not EMP proof because of the Delco High Energy ignition.  Also, do you have a carburetor or fuel injection?  If it's a carb, you might be in luck; just pull out the distributor and put in one with breaker-points from a 1974 model, and you'll have to add a coil.  (that's what I did with my 1976 C20 when the ignition went out without warning.  With the coil and new sparkplug wires, it cost me about the same as putting in a rebuilt HEI, but I know it would never suddenly quit on me.  Surprisingly, it didn't hurt the gas mileage)

The TBI gets confused when it gets down below zero 

I've had several cars like that; below about -20 they wouldn't start and would flood instantly.  I figured it was the computer got confused, or the temperature sensor didn't go that low.  Several mechanics told me I was crazy.  I found the temperature sensor wire and disconnected it next time it wouldn't start, and it started right up.  Ran like *expletive deleted*it and didn't want to idle (computer probably assumed it was overheated), but I could nurse the throttle for a couple of minutes to keep it running just to warm it up a little, then reconnect the wire and start it right up again.

[Frank Castle]

My 78 jeep J20 lifted on 37in MT, get around 10 mpg.

[wmenorr67]

My 78 jeep J20 lifted on 37in MT, get around 10 mpg.

Want

[White Horseradish]

Oh that would be horrific if it is some mutant carb with wires going to it. Or a throttle body injector.

I don't get all the TBI hate. Rochester TBI is hardly a performance injection system, but it's very simple and quite reliable.

There is also the possibility of a Q-jet carb and all sorts of vacuum-controlled emissions stuff. It looks complex, but is easily removed.

If it has any stupid crap like that find an old 2 barrel carb and transplant it. Or, know that the old carb fits already and keep it as a spare when the crap dies.

Gack. 2 barrel? Why? Get a Quadrajet, they are great carbs. The only problem I've ever had was the automatic choke died. I tossed it and put in a cable. That van started in any weather.

I think you're going to be screwed on the AC.

It's doable. Just might turn out to be a lot of work. If he were closer, I'd help, I already have tools and have a pretty good idea of what to do.

[charby]

I had a 84 Suburban 4x4, 350 auto with 29" tires. I got 10mpg in town, highway or pulling a trailer.

It had a lot of emissions, I removed as much as I could. It had a quadrajunk carburator and electronic ignition. It was a good truck until I put two rods though the block.

Small block chevys do like to leak oil so you may have to replace a few seals, oil pan, main seal and valve cover gaskets.

[Tallpine]

valve cover gaskets

Those were hopeless until they changed to a ribbed (aluminum) cover.  You could put a brand new gasket on the old tin ones and they would leak just as bad as before.  One the good side you never have to change your oil 

I've had several cars like that; below about -20 they wouldn't start and would flood instantly.  I figured it was the computer got confused, or the temperature sensor didn't go that low.  Several mechanics told me I was crazy.  I found the temperature sensor wire and disconnected it next time it wouldn't start, and it started right up.  Ran like *expletive deleted* and didn't want to idle (computer probably assumed it was overheated), but I could nurse the throttle for a couple of minutes to keep it running just to warm it up a little, then reconnect the wire and start it right up again.

Toggle switch and a few feet of wire     




One of the worst things about our 91 Suburban (other than it's not a pickup since the kids are grown) is the idle and the automatic transmission makes it impossible to stop on ice even at very low speeds, unless you are in 4wd or you pop the column shifter to N 

The front wheels lock up before the back wheel brakes over come the transmission, so the back wheels are still pushing while the front wheels just slide.  Makes you look like an idiot driver.  It's okay if you are in 4wd because the front brakes stop the transmission output.

[Frank Castle]

I've had several cars like that; below about -20 they wouldn't start and would flood instantly.  I figured it was the computer got confused, or the temperature sensor didn't go that low.

When i got to Alaska ( Army ) , i was told i had to get my trunk weatherized. Block heater , oil pan heater , battery heater, transmission heater and change my antifreeze  to 70-30. The my HHR or jeep they will start at -60 if it's plugged in !!

I have forgotten to plug in the HHR one night, the weather dropped to -40 and it took me about 10 minute to get it to start. The motor was frozen.   

[Tallpine]

When i got to Alaska ( Army ) , i was told i had to get my trunk weatherized. Block heater , oil pan heater , battery heater, transmission heater and change my antifreeze  to 70-30. The my HHR or jeep they will start at -60 if it's plugged in !!

I have forgotten to plug in the HHR one night, the weather dropped to -40 and it took me about 10 minute to get it to start. The motor was frozen.   

Our HHR always starts (but hasn't been below about -20) but it has this weird thing where if you start it and drive a short distance and then shut it off for a few minutes then it won't, or will hardly, start again. 

So when we haul 5 gal buckets of hot water about 1/2 mile over to our corrals in the morning, we have to leave it running while we are there if it is below about +20 or so.


We used to live where it got 30 to 60 below in Colorado.  Didn't have heaters on most of our vehicles but rarely had any trouble starting.  Those were ones with the carb and choke system, and no computers of course.

Tried to put a manual choke on my 1976 C-20 but the geometry is such that it just doesn't work right with the Q-jet.  So I have to pump the daylights out of it in cold weather, and just don't bother trying to start it when it it really cold.  The 2wd is not much use around here anyway.  I could drive most anywhere except can't get up our drive and get turned around again.

[zxcvbob]

Tried to put a manual choke on my 1976 C-20 but the geometry is such that it just doesn't work right with the Q-jet.  So I have to pump the daylights out of it in cold weather, and just don't bother trying to start it when it it really cold.  The 2wd is not much use around here anyway.  I could drive most anywhere except can't get up our drive and get turned around again.

I put a manual choke on a '76 C20 with a QuadraJet carb, and I remember it was kind of tricky.  I think I had make a loop in the cable or something.

That was the best truck I ever had.  I would load it with dirt or shingles or whatever until the frame just set down on the rear axles, then add another hundred pounds or so to keep it from bouncing   Too bad the rust ate it totally up.  (if I still had it I would have to switch to 16" or 17" wheels.  Have you tried finding 16.5's lately?)

[Tallpine]

(if I still had it I would have to switch to 16" or 17" wheels.  Have you tried finding 16.5's lately?)

I bought mine used in 1996.  First thing I did was run down to the salvage yard and trade in the 16.5 wheels & bias ply tires for some 16's with halfway decent radials ($200).  Those lasted about five years when I put some new ones on it that are still running today.

The salvage yard guy was going to weld the 16.5's into jackstands or something 

My 1973 K-20 had 16" split rims.  Dang, if I had only known they would quit making those.  I liked being able to change a tire out in the dirt with a few hand tools.

[cassandra and sara's daddy]

then add another hundred pounds or so to keep it from bouncing


lol  i like the way you think
i worked for a guy who loaded flatbeds till he could no longer get his fist between top of tire and bottom of bed

[Tallpine]

Overloading ...


I bought or traded for (can't remember?) an old Army trailer that was built to carry a generator, and then I used it for a log trailer.

The springs weren't all that stout, so I lag bolted an oak block to the underside of the frame just above the axle on both sides.  The holes in the frame were already there. 

The wood blocks would just settle down on the axle and ride nice with 8K pounds of logs loaded.  Really not much different than the rubber pad suspensions on most real log trucks and trailers.

FYI, I pulled it with a C-60 GMC - not a pickup 

[gunsmith]

I'm not sure yet of the size of the tires-other then they're big, it currently has street tires and there is a spare set of off road mud/snows - 4 of them, on rims and still with air in them .

the guy who gave the truck to me isn't much of a mechanic but is better then me, he pointed to a broken aluminum tube and said "that's the AC-its broken, at least I think its the AC"

the roads here are a mix of good and awful and in between, I don't want to scare you guys/gals away from visiting.

I'm gonna go get my gen, plug the air compressor in and fill the tires ( in a few minutes ) .... thanks!!

[roo_ster]

It should get 15-18mpg depending on the roads and speed.

They are good trucks.  I'm looking for a 1980 or older 3/4 ton 4x4. 

Similar to my druthers:
1986 or older
1/2 or 3/4 ton or 1 ton (duallies need not apply)
4WD
Extended cab or crew cab

I figure that will cover any pickup/off-road needs for quite some time, driving it a couple times/week.