Author Topic: Buying my first car, looking for tips and anecdotes  (Read 7483 times)

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Buying my first car, looking for tips and anecdotes
« Reply #25 on: February 10, 2006, 04:36:29 PM »
I would go with an early/mid 90's Civic.

-They're ubiquitous so parts are going to be easily picked up from scrapyards. I have an '02 Civic and I can get a low mileage (under 40K) engine for less than $1K from a scrapyard.
-There is a wealth of information online for anything you could imagine doing to a Civic from making it 500hp to changing the sidemarker bulb.
-Get a manual, Honda's auto transmissions are NOT known for their reliability.
-Look for a car that was some older lady's grocery getter, I'm sure you can find them all over the Bay Area. Don't buy one that someone modified.
-Insurance on them will be decent.
-It is very easy to add aftermarket audio as your budget allows. Some foreign cars are tough to find compatiable audio systems for.
-Great gas mileage
-The engine bay is as simple as can be; you can definitely learn how to repair and maintain your own car.


I would avoid the older Volvos, simply because parts and such are more expensive for them. They are great cars but if you're on a shoestring budget, every factor counts. Avoid Korean cars like others have said. And I would stay away from American cars in that price range, IME they are not as reliable as Japanese cars of similar vintage.

grislyatoms

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« Reply #26 on: February 11, 2006, 07:11:35 AM »
Another vote for a used domestic full size pick'em up. I have owned four over the years and was not dissapointed with any of them. They are (depending on the year) easy to work on, well made, and reliable. Look for one that has been well taken care of. Don't dismiss sell-off fleet vehicles as being ragged out either, some companies maintain their vehicles meticulously. Fleet vehicles can be hard to find though, as auto wholesalers snap them up like M&M's.

Case in point for ease of repair:

12 years or so ago I had a fleet sell-off '78 Chevy pickup with a 350 / T400 auto. The water pump went out and had to be replaced. 4 bolts for the fan, 4-6 bolts for the water pump. I replaced it in an hour or so.

I just recently got rid of an '84 Toyota Corolla that needed a water pump. To replace it, I would have had to loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine! Not that big a deal unless you don't have a cherry picker / similar.

Fuel pump on a '79 F150 - about 45 minutes.

Fuel pump on a '84 Corolla - all day?

(Granted the Corolla's fuel pump was electric and in the tank, whereas the Ford's was mechanical and in the side of the block)

Another litle point of advice someone touched on earlier, if something breaks, fix it ASAP! I had a few vehicles in my youth (some pretty nice) that I neglected to fix seemingly minor things. One day I went out and realized, "What a POS! It needs this and that and the other, and I can't be bothered". Then sold it for a song.
Not to mention the fact that mechanical problems never get bettter, they always get worse, and will cost more $$$ if you let them slide.

Great ways to throw money away.

In any event, good luck on your choice!
"A son of the sea, am I" Gordon Lightfoot

garrettwc

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« Reply #27 on: February 11, 2006, 04:26:57 PM »
jfruser, 74 Gran Torino 351W 2 barrel with the FMX tranny. Factory Candy apple red paint, and a set of mag wheels and I was ready for the street. I still miss that car.

Felonious Monk/Fignozzle

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« Reply #28 on: February 11, 2006, 04:42:02 PM »
garretwc, sounds like the Starsky & Hutch car!

garrettwc

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« Reply #29 on: February 11, 2006, 07:01:57 PM »
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garretwc, sounds like the Starsky & Hutch car!
Exactly, only I had a black vinyl top instead of the white stripe. Everything else was the same.

yesterdaysyouth

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« Reply #30 on: February 12, 2006, 01:58:13 AM »
i've got a 96 subaru legacy and a 91 yota 2wd pickup , both with well over 200000 miles....
motor and tranmissions are still factory originals...

chaim

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« Reply #31 on: February 12, 2006, 04:18:05 AM »
If you were going to spend more on a late model used car, or a new car, I'd say you can't go wrong with a Toyota or Honda.  They last nearly forever.  If you were on a budget, but could go no older than 3 or 4 years, or were going new, I'd suggest a Hyundai Sonata or Elantra (I love my Sonata- most reliable car I've ever owned).  But in your price range you're looking at older cars so stay away from Hyundai.  Also, I'll be contrarian and say stay away from Honda and Toyota (unless you find an incredible deal).  The resale value is so high on these that to get one in your price range you'll be looking at some pretty old and high mileage cars if you are looking at these two.  I'm not sold that a 10 year old Honda with nearly 200K miles will be a more reliable car than a 5 or 6 year old Chevy with under 100K.

Avoid Nissan Sentras and most Chrysler/Dodge cars.  I've had bad luck with Sentras (2 that were absolute junk).  My parents had a Dodge Spirit that was a great car, until it hit 100K miles and 5 years old (the engine outright died despite being maintainted religiously).

As for general principles I'd say look at American cars (inexpensive), trucks (more money, but last forever), or European cars (more money, but they will never die).  Even though you are young, you should look at "old man" cars.  A mid-sized or large 4dr sedan is less likely to have been abused, and they are usually pretty durable.

If I was to look in the $3K range here is what I'd be looking at:

-A Dodge Neon (I know what I said above about Dodge).  They really don't hold their values very well at all and were inexpensive new so you may be able to find a late model (under 5 years old) example with 40-70K miles in your price range.  It should give you another 60-100K miles of relatively reliable life.

-A Chevy Cavalier.  Same as above.

-A Chevy Malibu or Lumina.  Same as above, plus they are mid-sized family cars and thus more likely to have been cared for and less likely to have been abused.

-Any Buick.  Buicks have generally been very reliable cars (near Japanese quality), they are American and thus don't hold their resale values very well, and were usually owned by an older, more conservative driver (they are highly unlikely to have been abused).  You may have to go a little older (they weren't as cheap as the Dodge or Chevys when new), but these are mostly driven by older drivers who often don't put that many miles on their cars.  You could probably find a 5-7 year old Century, Regal or LeSabre with 50Kish miles in your price range.  These will usually go 200K miles without too much trouble.

-An old (1996 or prior) Buick Century or Olds Cutlass Ciera.  In the end of their run (1990-1996) these were great cars.  Very reliable, very durable (can last nearly forever), driven by older drivers, and priced like much smaller cars when new.  My dad had a 1996 that was an incredibly reliable car.  He had to replace it when someone hit it while parked in a parking lot and it was a total loss.  You may be able to find one with low miles for well under your limit.

-A used small pick-up.  These are generally quite durable, and those from Ford, Mazda, Toyota, and Nissan are pretty reliable.  The gas mileage will be decent (with a small V-6 or a 4cyl) and prices aren't as bad as on a full-sized pick-up.
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Stickjockey

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« Reply #32 on: February 12, 2006, 05:17:52 AM »
Another vote for the Volvo 240 or a 'Yota. I've never known anyone who had a 240 that wore one out, and my wife ran a late '90's vintage Corolla out of oil twice before we noticed any sort of rod knock or anything.
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RadioFreeSeaLab

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« Reply #33 on: February 12, 2006, 07:26:04 AM »
Don't forget to tell us what you end up with.

Winston Smith

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« Reply #34 on: February 12, 2006, 08:03:19 AM »
Quote
Even though you are young, you should look at "old man" cars.  A mid-sized or large 4dr sedan is less likely to have been abuse
Well, that, and plus, old man cars are sweet. Even if it wasn't the type that  my budget made me look at, I would still be looking at boxy, reliable, powerful, comfortable sedans.

I appreciate all your help, guys.

Is there any reason not to buy a high mileage car, if it has been well maintained and passes the drive test and the exam by a mechanic? Because old school toyota's seem to be ubiquitous and cheap. Specifically corollas, camrys, and cressidas from 87 through 90.

Plus, well, to be perfectly honest, I like the design. Weird, I know. But... I do.

Plus, why not buy anything labeled turbo?


PS: These ford thunderbirds look sweet too... I frequently find one for around 1500 or 1800, which would be sweet. Leftover money for food and books at college. And a V8 would be sweet. What should I watch out for? Is there a brick wall in terms of mileage? Gas mileage = bad?
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jefnvk

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« Reply #35 on: February 12, 2006, 09:06:43 AM »
Loved my 03 Cavalier, before I totaled it.  Only real complaint was that a seemingly small fender-bender (something that probably wouldn't have even affected my truck) ended up crumpling up enough plastic and thin sheet metal, and set off the airbags, to total the car.  That, and the cup holders were in the way of the climate control.  But 44MPG highway was awesome, 35+ city was great too.

OTOH, I lovd my first car, an 82 Dodge Ram 150.  Beat on that truck, and it kept running.  No PS or ABS taught me to drive without them, which I think everyone should know how to do.  Manual transmission, which also should be a condition for driving.  Working on that thing was easy, you could sit in the engine compartment and work on anything that needed fixed.  Got a Chilton (I think that is the name) service manual, fixed everything myself.  The only reason I don't have it anymore, is that it wasn't particularly suited for the 500 mile drives to school and back, and a 2WD pickup in northern Michigan snow in a city with hills that remind people of San Francisco isn't a good combo.
I still say 'Give Detroit to Canada'

Stickjockey

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« Reply #36 on: February 12, 2006, 09:16:31 AM »
Quote
Is there any reason not to buy a high mileage car, if it has been well maintained and passes the drive test and the exam by a mechanic?
There comes a point where the nickel-and-dime factor can get annoying, not to mention expensive. This can be alleviated by the "well-maintained" bit, and also by learning to do your own maintenance. Get the Chilton or Haynes manual.

Quote
Plus, why not buy anything labeled turbo?
Having a turbocharger is one more assembly of parts that can fail when you least expect or are prepared for it. They generally are more expensive to fix and can do some damage to insurance rates as well, especially for a male of your age. Not trying to patronize, but they look at stuff like that. (Think of the 'Rents!)
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« Reply #37 on: February 12, 2006, 09:31:03 AM »
Quote from: Winston Smith
Quote
Even though you are young, you should look at "old man" cars.  A mid-sized or large 4dr sedan is less likely to have been abuse
Well, that, and plus, old man cars are sweet. Even if it wasn't the type that  my budget made me look at, I would still be looking at boxy, reliable, powerful, comfortable sedans.
Yeah, I'm that way myself.  I love big, boxy, American (and American style) cars.  The first car I bought new was a 1992 Ford Escort sedan (talk about boring).  The first Sentra was used so I got what seemed the best deal (a 2 year old 2dr with 19000 miles for $7K about 11 years ago) but the second was a 4 door sedan.  I did own an old (10 years old when I first got it) Olds Cutlass Cierra.  The only reason I've never bought a Volvo or a large car is cost (I made due with small 4dr sedans).

Quote
I appreciate all your help, guys.

Is there any reason not to buy a high mileage car, if it has been well maintained and passes the drive test and the exam by a mechanic? Because old school toyota's seem to be ubiquitous and cheap. Specifically corollas, camrys, and cressidas from 87 through 90.
Well, a high mileage car will be closer to the end of its useful life and even a car that was reliable new will need more repairs.  However (a big "if"), cars like other pieces of equipment really are good for x number of hours.  Most other machinery has its age judged by hours, but with cars we use miles as an easy crib.  So, it really does matter if it is "highway miles".  If you find a car with 100K highway miles it is a much newer car and should last a lot longer than a car with 100K city miles/errand miles/stop and go miles.  The problem is how to know the seller is telling the truth about the miles.

As for getting an old Toyota, despite my advice you can do fine that way.  You just have to be more careful since most will be high miles cars.  If you look carefully, and you are ready to buy "now" when you find it, you can find good deals on even Toyotas and Hondas.  People who can't afford their loan anymore, who are selling an estate car (so long as you aren't creeped out by owning a dead person's car), or who are moving will sometimes let a car go for much less than it is actually worth in order to get a quicker sale.  Even with the high miles cars you can get lucky, especially if it is all highway miles (with any used car have a mechanic check it out before paying your money, but this is epecially important with a higher miles car).

Quote
Plus, why not buy anything labeled turbo?
A turbo is a high revving engine that really adds to the wear and tear on an engine.  That lowers its useful life, plus the turbo itself is a component that will often need replaced in an older car and they aren't cheap.
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Parker Dean

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« Reply #38 on: February 12, 2006, 09:57:51 AM »
Quote from: Winston Smith
PS: These ford thunderbirds look sweet too... I frequently find one for around 1500 or 1800, which would be sweet. Leftover money for food and books at college. And a V8 would be sweet. What should I watch out for? Is there a brick wall in terms of mileage? Gas mileage = bad?
If you're looking a Tbirds in the years range I was talking about (84-88) the V8 models will have the 5.0 liter (302) with the Automatic Overdrive (AOD) transmission. Not the funnest combo, but it'll get ya around. That's why I like the 2.3T/ 5 speed cars. Still plenty tough while being a fun ride too.

And I was going to mention that you probably don't want to spend all you've got. Used cars invariably need something like tires, batteries, radiator etc.

No real mileage "limit", although the lower the milage the better as a rule. I've run many Fox chassis Fords to the 500K mile range with only average care, so IMO they're quite tough. Of course abuse will shorten the life of even a tank.

2.3T/5 speed highway mileage isn't great, only about the mid-twenties, with in-town mileage in the high teens. The V8's will be in the high teens, maybe as high as 20 on the highway, with city mileage in the 10-12mpg range.

Felonious Monk/Fignozzle

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« Reply #39 on: February 12, 2006, 10:40:32 AM »
Quote from: Winston Smith
Quote
Even though you are young, you should look at "old man" cars.  A mid-sized or large 4dr sedan is less likely to have been abuse
Well, that, and plus, old man cars are sweet. Even if it wasn't the type that  my budget made me look at, I would still be looking at boxy, reliable, powerful, comfortable sedans.

I appreciate all your help, guys.

Is there any reason not to buy a high mileage car, if it has been well maintained and passes the drive test and the exam by a mechanic? Because old school toyota's seem to be ubiquitous and cheap. Specifically corollas, camrys, and cressidas from 87 through 90.

Plus, well, to be perfectly honest, I like the design. Weird, I know. But... I do.

Plus, why not buy anything labeled turbo?


PS: These ford thunderbirds look sweet too... I frequently find one for around 1500 or 1800, which would be sweet. Leftover money for food and books at college. And a V8 would be sweet. What should I watch out for? Is there a brick wall in terms of mileage? Gas mileage = bad?
My brother, do not buy a turbo anything.  They tend to go bad someplace between 60-120k miles, and cost literally thousands to fix.  

Also, it's ONLY opinion, but I certainly would not buy a used T-bird.  They just don't last.  That's WHY it's so cheap.  Unless, of course, you LIKE replacing motors and transmissions.

Old man cars (as in Crown Vics, Merc Marquis, Chevy Caprice/Impala) can be really a good buy, just be prepared that those old V8's will tap your budget if you're going to do much driving.

And finally, a high mileage car...okay, you can do that. But you have to have an EXTENSIVE inspection, NOT just a quick once-over.  PAY someone 50-100 dollars to take the tires off, look at the brake assemblies, check the compression, (I'm sure Art or someone more mechanically literate can add other MUST checks)...

I've bought high mileage cars when I was younger, and paid ALOT of money for control-arm bushings, an entire steering rack (as in rack & pinion), transmissions, cracked motor heads, and so on.  Learned the HARD way that it's VERY much worth a couple hundred dollars to a well-trusted mechanic to go over it and give you the thumbs-up or thumbs-down.

Scottmkiv

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« Reply #40 on: February 12, 2006, 12:12:38 PM »
No matter what you get, don't get something that has been modified, especially the electrical system. I've seen a lot of nice cars (40-50k new) horribly screwed up when they had cheap aftermarket stereos installed.

Parker Dean

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« Reply #41 on: February 12, 2006, 03:43:04 PM »
Quote from: Winston Smith
[ What should I watch out for?
I had to think about this one a while, and concluded that it's too general a question without knowing a specific model and year. Even within a single model generation there can be variations depending on equipment and mid-year changes.

So as a general guideline things you'd rather not see are leaks to a drip from anything. Some things, of course a less critical while others should be cared for quickly. Take a rear axle for instance. It typically has something less than a gallon of lubricant capacity, so if it leaks it can lose lube to the point of overheating and damaging bearings before you know it. OTOH it's not usually all that hard to change a rear axle seal but you don't know if the previous owner DID run it that low. Same goes for a transmission, just that it can be more labor intensive as you'd have to remove the trans. No leaks whatsoever accepted from the brake system BTW.

Look at the coolant. Should be bright green on an ethylene glycol (antifreeze) equipped car, and red on a later car that has that supposedly 100K mile coolant (I forget the name, one brand is Dexcool). If it looks like rust, then the system has had a leak and run on water-only for a long time. And I do mean a LONG time, which means it'll be corroded everywhere inside. Look on the bottom of the cap if it has rust build up but the coolant looks good you know they changed it to sell the car but probably didn't fix the original problem.

Pull the oil fill cap up. Look on the bottom of it and down in the fill port. If you see sludge you know the rest of the engine is just like it, and probably worse. The problem sludge causes is that it blocks drain-back passages and the oil pick-up screen. This in turn starves the engine for lubricant and can lead to a seized engine in short order. In your price range I doubt you'll find pristine examples but try to keep this sort of stuff to a minimum.

If you look at an auto trans car, look at the fluid. It should be red. If its brown and stinks with an acrid burnt odor, then the fluid is burnt and can be an indicator of internal trans problems. OTOH, if it's brand new this can also be a warning sign that it was changed just to sell the car. Freshly changed fluid can be confirmed by looking at the pan and it's gasket. If the pan is clean (and nothing else is) and the gasket new, you know the score.

Start the engine cold. If you hear a rattle as the engine revs on cold start that quickly quiets, that is usually a sign of worn rod bearings and that you should probably head on down the road.

On an atuo trans car, select the appropriate gear for the situation and the trans should apply just like you're used to. If it seems to delay, then it probably really did and you should just mosey on to the next car. On manual trans cars, the clutch should engage smoothly and not result in a judder when you release it. That's called clutch chatter and requires the replacement of the clutch to fix. Stock stuff will be something less than a couple hundred bucks but the labor to do it is a pain, requiring removal of the trans. It can be done on a rear drive car in the driveway (BTDT) but better to avoid things like this if you can.

Take the car on an extensive drive if the owner will let you (you being young he may object. If so, have a parent take it out for you.) Put gas if you have to. Drive on the freeway for at least ten minutes to see if it overheats, starts making abnormal noises etc. Drive it in city traffic with the A/C on to make sure it doesn't overheat at low speeds. With an auto trans make sure it doesn't start slipping as it gets hot. Stop in at a convenience store for a few minutes to see if it's hard to start when hot.

That's about it, other than perhaps taking it to a shop for an evaluation. I can tell you right now, though, that they're going to hate any car in your price range and come up with a list of a thousand things needing to be done ( I know, I used to be a tech and did that to CYA, or rather CMA Smiley ). It'll be your job to decide what's critical enough to sink the deal.

Once you have a specific model and year in mind, then perhaps some more specific info can be found.

garrettwc

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« Reply #42 on: February 13, 2006, 03:41:17 AM »
Quote
A Dodge Neon (I know what I said above about Dodge).  They really don't hold their values very well at all and were inexpensive new so you may be able to find a late model (under 5 years old) example with 40-70K miles in your price range.  It should give you another 60-100K miles of relatively reliable life.
Avoid the 98-'02 range Neons like the plague. Same goes for the Stratus/Breeze, etc. [they have the same 4 cyl as the Neon]. They had batch of bad cylinder heads/bolts during that year. Constant heat up/cool down from driving stretches the bolts and or warps the head and blows the head gasket. I found this information on a mechanic forum on the net after mine let go at 125K. Cost $1500 to fix. A couple of months later my daughter's car did the same thing at about the same mileage. I got another year out of the car after that. It threw a rod two weeks ago and that was it for me.

grislyatoms

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« Reply #43 on: February 13, 2006, 04:46:37 AM »
Excellent advice from Parker Dean

BTW, aren't some brands / types of coolant orange? I seem to remember seeing orange on a couple of occasions, and it wasn't rust.
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chaim

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« Reply #44 on: February 13, 2006, 05:41:23 AM »
Quote from: garrettwc
Quote
A Dodge Neon (I know what I said above about Dodge).  They really don't hold their values very well at all and were inexpensive new so you may be able to find a late model (under 5 years old) example with 40-70K miles in your price range.  It should give you another 60-100K miles of relatively reliable life.
Avoid the 98-'02 range Neons like the plague. Same goes for the Stratus/Breeze, etc. [they have the same 4 cyl as the Neon]. They had batch of bad cylinder heads/bolts during that year. Constant heat up/cool down from driving stretches the bolts and or warps the head and blows the head gasket. I found this information on a mechanic forum on the net after mine let go at 125K. Cost $1500 to fix. A couple of months later my daughter's car did the same thing at about the same mileage. I got another year out of the car after that. It threw a rod two weeks ago and that was it for me.
Garrett, you can see from my post that I don't trust Chrysler/Dodge passenger cars (the trucks are a different story- I so want a Dakota).  Still I stand my advice to consider the Neon, and I think my reasoning is sound (let me know what you think).

In the particular case here we have a 17 year old without a lot of money.  He's looking in the $3000 range.  Generally that will get you old relatively high mileage cars.  With the Dodge Neon, because of the low prices new and low resale value used, you can generally find a 3-5 year old Neon with around 40-70K miles at around that price, if bought from a private seller.  If you add another $1K to the spending limit you will definately find cars at the low end of my estimate, even at dealers- right now I'm looking at a listing on Yahoo Autos from a local dealer for a 2002 with 60K miles for $3995.  If I was looking in that price range I'd definately consider the Neon.

Just about any car sold in the past 5 or 6 years should get 100K miles out of it relatively reliably.  So, for $3000-3500 you can get a Neon with a good 50K miles or so left even if you are unlucky.  If it dies around 125K like yours did, you got 55-75K miles out of it, for a ~$3K investment.  That really isn't that bad.  To top it off, this is a 17 year old, the Neon is a fun car to drive with a decent amount of power for its size.
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« Reply #45 on: February 13, 2006, 06:24:17 AM »
Dodge/Chrysler is an interesting case due to outsourcing and technology mixing, you have to watch what *motor* you get and which transmission too. If you choose well, you're A+.... choose badly and you're in a world of hurt.

Let me put it this way, for engines and transmissions offered since 1980 or so.
manuals - A+ on all counts
A413 3 speed - A
Ultradrive and derivative 4-speed OD autos: D until 1998 or so, then C+

1.6 peugeot (in Omnis, horizons) - C
1.7VW (omni, horizon, O24) - A-
2.6 (mitsu sourced)- C-
2.2 carb - C, due to complexity mostly
2.2 TBI - A+
2.2 Turbo I - B- for configuration issues with turbo i.e. vacuum issues with bearings under decel
2.2 Turbo II - B+, turbos are still picky creatures
2.2 Turbo VNT - C
2.2 16V - D- nothing "wrong" with the motor itself, incredibly maintenance intensive re: timing belt is overstressed, noninterference though
2.0: (neon) C watch for years with head gasket issues
2.4: C+
2.5: See 2.2, same motor with longer stroke

3.0 V6 (mitsu): D solid motor, hard to work on, *will* lunch the valve guides before 150K.
3.3 V6: B+
3.5 V6: C
3.8 V6: B+


My SOLID recomendation regardless of what car you get is to ignore everyone who says X Sucks and Y are always broken. Go find a forum for that given car and read VORACIOUSLY to find out what the common issues and fixes are and what they cost.

PS this 2.2/2.5 TBI stick shift kick I'm on... for several years the 2.5TBI was offered in Dakotas and even though it *seemed* to be too small of a motor on paper it generally performed admirably.

garrettwc

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« Reply #46 on: February 13, 2006, 08:16:35 AM »
chaim, I would agree with you except for the fact that he has no guarantee when the head will go. Some have let go just out of warranty.

From mfree's post:
Quote
2.0: (neon) C watch for years with head gasket issues
This is the same motor in our family's two Stratuses. If you avoid those years, or get the 2.5 motor then I would say OK. Otherwise it's russian roulette.

This car was my last Dodge car. I have had two of them 4cyl FWD and both lasted only a few years and failed with major repairs needed, in spite of regular maintenance on my part.

The ones that have lasted me longest? Full size GM and Ford cars and trucks, V8 rear wheel drive.

mfree

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« Reply #47 on: February 13, 2006, 09:26:17 AM »
Just as a PS, most FWD driveline issues have as a root cause the fact that nobody ever realizes that the driveline will need realignment every other year or so, or after suspension alterations (accidents, alignments, etc), with age, and so on.

It's different with every car, but with the FWD dodges (I'm a K-based turbo vehicle enthusiast) if the engine's out of line all kinds of evil can surface... from torque steer all the way to bottoming the splines (and hence snapping the shaft or shattering the joint) or overextension (axle comes out of splines, splines shear) to simply breaking axles due to geometry.

It's hard to imagine but the usual FWD setup can allow 2" of side to side movement if the mounts decay, and that's the kind of misalignment I'm talking about. Keep the geometries right, keep the boots on and full, watch the bearings, and your FWD setup can easily live as long as a RWD. It's just maintenance, like watching pinion angles on RWD or really just keeping lube in the axle.

And if you think what I'm talking about is difficult, with some prompting you can (on my K's, anyways) set it up with a ruler, two coat hangers to make "gauges" out of, a jack and a set of wrenches. It's not rocket science.

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Buying my first car, looking for tips and anecdotes
« Reply #48 on: February 13, 2006, 12:47:25 PM »
mfree- By "K-based" do you mean the K20 series? If so, that is an awesome engine.

mfree

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« Reply #49 on: February 14, 2006, 07:59:53 AM »
No, by K-based I mean pretty much any FWD dodge vehicle produced between 1982 and 1994 with the 2.2/2.5L turbocharged SOHC engine.