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Author Topic: HVAC /heat pump not cycling  (Read 10110 times)

Harold Tuttle

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2006, 06:00:26 PM »
the fan is triggered by the auto on circuit in the thermostat

i left it on fan only today to keep air moving while i was at work

the current status is if i don't bypass the connector,
the outside unit never starts

with it bypassed it comes on and starts to cool

if i turn the thermostat off but the condensor is bypassed to run

it continues running but reverses to heat cycle

as its about 85 degrees tonight this is a bad thing
so i pulled the fuse switch
and reset the thermostat to cool
and reengaged the condensor
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Ron

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #26 on: May 30, 2006, 06:06:25 PM »
What about the indoor fan question.

We need to determine whether the thermostat is doing it's job and sending the 24 volts out to Y1. It will also send 24 volts to G which brings on the indoor fan. If the indoor fan is turning on automatically then the T Stat is probably OK.

If you can see where the LPS, HPS and DT wires plug into the board you can pull the wires off and Ohm out the wires.
LPS= low pressure switch, compressor will not run do to low pressure in refrigerant system.
HPS=high pressure switch, compressor will not run do to high pressure in refrigerant system.
DT =defrost t-stat, I a not am heat pump guy but this probably shuts the compressor of if the coil starts to freeze up.

Any of them could go bad and keep the system from running. Do this with the power off to the unit Smiley
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Ron

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #27 on: May 30, 2006, 06:16:39 PM »
When I said ohm out the lps, hps and dt switches I meant check for continuity.

If your meter has a setting where it beeps when you touch the probes that is what you use.

They are switches that should be closed or made. When touching one probe of your meter to one wire and the other probe to the second wire you should be able to read whether it is made or not.

My apologies if you understand this already, i am not sure how deep your electrical trouble shooting skills are.
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Harold Tuttle

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #28 on: May 30, 2006, 06:26:41 PM »
Yip,
the indoor circulation fan is being triggered by the thermostat

i dig ohms
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Ron

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #29 on: May 30, 2006, 06:40:07 PM »
Quote
i dig ohms
It's an amazing universe we live in.
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280plus

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #30 on: May 30, 2006, 10:13:44 PM »
Quote
it continues running but reverses to heat cycle
yup, when you turn the t'stat off it kills the signal to the reversing valve which goes into heat mode when deenergized so if the compressor runs with the valve denergized the unit produces heat.

Have you figured whether you have a signal to the board across Y to C at the plug?

The best/quickest way to check the pump safety switch is to jump the two control wires to the pump together and see if the contactor pulls in.

Quote
its dark out and i really dislike 240 AC in the dark
Where's your sense of adventure? Cheesy I don't know about Goron's area but around here we call a good shock a "cheap buzz" Tongue
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Harold Tuttle

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #31 on: May 31, 2006, 04:41:10 AM »
Ok, now that the big light making deal in the sky has rebooted,
i have tested the 24v status of the Y & C/B line

at the plug i am seeing 24 volts

at the coil and at the output of the defrost board

i am seeing nothing

it appears we have diagnosed it to a faulty component in the external condensor

now where to get a replacement defrost board for an
Amana Temp Assure II Heat Pump Model RHE30A2D, MFG NO P1232217C?


i may give this guy a call:
http://www.toad.net/~jsmeenen/
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Harold Tuttle

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #32 on: May 31, 2006, 04:45:40 AM »
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Harold Tuttle

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #33 on: May 31, 2006, 04:56:23 AM »
ow!:
http://www.expertappliance.com
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MAIN CONTROL BOARD

 
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Z6-20214302-32AW
 
Price                        $298.01
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http://www.bestbuyheatingandairconditioning.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

Amana Defrost Circuit Board Replacement Part
Code:CIB20214303
Price: $136.76


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
CIRCUIT BOARD FOR AMANA

DTL-620002-AMA P/N 20214302
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cfabe

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #34 on: May 31, 2006, 07:51:48 AM »
Are any of the components on the board burnt/blown up / corroded? It looks to be a rather simple circuit board, repairing it might not be out of the question.
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mfree

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« Reply #35 on: May 31, 2006, 08:57:59 AM »
Looks a little toasty there between D5 and R19, looks like that might be a 'C'... blown cap?
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Harold Tuttle

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #36 on: May 31, 2006, 09:21:08 AM »
gotta love 6 meg digital camera images


looks like petrified spider farts

i guess i could jumper my own 24 volts to the coil from the furnace Y & C/B input

my Amana unit should have 10 year warrenty on the parts

And i heard from the install guy

he approved of my manual override solution
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Ron

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #37 on: May 31, 2006, 05:14:10 PM »
Just got home........so?

Are we cooling yet?
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Harold Tuttle

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« Reply #38 on: May 31, 2006, 05:36:53 PM »
its in HT freelance bypass mode
 and cooling nicely

i forgot to bring some alligator clip leads home to play with jumpering the 24 volts directly to the coil
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280plus

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« Reply #39 on: June 02, 2006, 06:02:46 AM »
Hey Harold, sorry I disappeared on you. Found out Wednesday I needed a couple of stents in the old ticker, just got home today and doing A-ok.
Yes you can eliminate the board for now and put 24V directly to the coil on the contactor but you'll need to replace it before next heating season or the unit will not defrost. As long as your getting cool you won't have to mess with the reversing valve circuit. Good luck!

Cheesy
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Harold Tuttle

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« Reply #40 on: June 02, 2006, 10:30:11 AM »
dood!

keep that internal pump circulating at peak efficiency

Wink

i'm about to run a 24 volt bypass here

this afternoon i stopped in my kids class room and the room was really stuffy

i cycled the fan in the AC unit off & on and the compressor kicked in and started cooling

Smiley

these hands are blessed!
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280plus

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HVAC /heat pump not cycling
« Reply #41 on: June 02, 2006, 10:51:09 AM »
I'm hiring you know...

Wink
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« Reply #42 on: June 02, 2006, 10:54:11 AM »
Oh, if you find it's heating and not cooling youll have to jump "O" and "C" to the reversing valve too. The board should be marked as to which 2 leads are for the reversing valve. There's only two so it doesn't make any difference which way you hook them up.
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« Reply #43 on: June 02, 2006, 10:56:30 AM »
Another "oh"... You might try cleaning that stuff and any other stuff off the board, it may be bleeding electricity to a wierd place and messing with it's "mind". Worth a shot.
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« Reply #44 on: June 02, 2006, 10:58:36 AM »
The 2 thick black wires connected to "RV" on the board are the reversing valve leads.
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Harold Tuttle

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« Reply #45 on: June 02, 2006, 11:05:29 AM »
it woiks
when the autofan kicks on, the connector pulls in an the unit boots up and runs

should i disconnect the leads into the defrost board or is the reversing circuit routed through there?
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« Reply #46 on: June 02, 2006, 11:14:31 AM »
Ah , yup, the RV circuit goes through the board. If you still got the board hooked up and the contactor jumped direct you SHOULD be ok. Let me know if you have any more problems with it.

Cheesy
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« Reply #47 on: June 02, 2006, 11:18:11 AM »
I notice that the goo goes all the way over to the logic chip. I would definitely try cleaning that off to see if it works before ordering a new board. Try a toothbrush or something like that..
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« Reply #48 on: June 02, 2006, 01:57:56 PM »
Glad the heatpump guy is back with a fixed pump in him!!

Glad you are cooling HT, thought I would try to pick up the slack for our wounded tech.

Be cool guys.
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Harold Tuttle

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« Reply #49 on: June 05, 2006, 08:59:47 AM »
well my install company dood has diagnosed a bad High Pressure switch

its running me $195 to replace it

he is going to have to vacuum down the system, replace the part and refill the refrigerant
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