Need some thoughts on cable management

[RevDisk]

So, I built a cabinet for my electronics. I made a recessed area in the back. I plan on putting a back plate on the cabinet, drill holes for the wiring.



I'm pondering over the wiring. I don't want to mix power and data. One or two power lines, no biggie. Dozen, ehh, might muck with the data lines. Surge protector, HDMI switch, ethernet switch will be on the back panel. Still pondering over the options for holding the cables. U bolts seem easiest. Could go with reguler bolts, padded with surgical tubing. Elastic bands, secured with screws? Or velcro.



Any thoughts? Lotta drilling, but eh.

[cordex]

Any thoughts?

Two things come to mind.
First, for the runs with only one or two cables, you could tack cables down in place individually instead of adding additional bulk cable handlers: http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

Second: You have seven HDMI devices and nine ethernet devices in your entertainment center? 

[RevDisk]

Two things come to mind.
First, for the runs with only one or two cables, you could tack cables down in place individually instead of adding additional bulk cable handlers: http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

Second: You have seven HDMI devices and nine ethernet devices in your entertainment center? 

Well no. I was using MS Paint because Visio is on my work machine and in a hurry. A lot more than that...

UPS, couple networking devices, NAS, PC, some micro-PCs (think Pi or BeagleBones), etc. Only entertainment devices per se are the blu-ray player, Roku and XBox. Probably an XBone or PS4 at some point. Probably get something besides my current sound bar, because yanno, single dude in house a bit far from other people means I need a monster sound system. I left off USB lines, fiber optics, etc for a crappy simplistic wiring diagram. I am going to use an 8 port Netgear gigabit switch until I can get a 16 port. Probably only an 8 port HDMI switch.

In case anyone notices, yes, the shelves are not equally spaced, intentionally. Center column is 3x 7in bays, 3x 4.5in bays. Left side (from photo angle) is DVD storage, but can be turned into more device storage. Right side is sized for (descending) networking/NAS, PC, UPS.

I pondered, like you said, tacking down each individual cable. That'd be a nightmare to rewire, let alone quickly. It'd look cool as hell, because I'm going with color coded custom length cables.

1. U bolt - Quick, cheap, simple. Probably look ugly, but very functional.
2. Bolts - Essentially make a bunch of pairs of posts. Maybe make swing gates for them? Easy to reconfig, very flexible. Even cheaper than U bolts.
2. Elastic or velcro bands - Was thinking of making loops, and attaching with two screws. Lower profile, but more work? Not sure...

[cordex]

I would think that the elastic held in with two screws would be the easiest to install, would keep the cables pretty tidy but would be a little harder to rewire than a gated bolt system.  You could probably find some U bolts that would work, but I have a feeling even they will project more than necessary from the back.

I think I like the bolts idea, although for an even less expensive, easier to install setup you could use broad headed screws.  You could gate it with some insulated wire stiff enough to take a couple wraps around the bolt head to hold on.  Or rubber bands, if you don't mind replacing them every year or two.  That would make rewiring easier than the other setups and still be very cheap to build and repair.  It is also not sensitive to bolt spacing so you could size each tiedown to fit the bundle of wires coming through instead of being stuck with one or two sizes for everything from 1 to 9 wires.  A third bolt in the middle would allow you to segment wires within a tiedown, if that matters.

[Headless Thompson Gunner]

Wire duct is your friend.

Example:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wire-duct/=wuk2uq

[RevDisk]

I would think that the elastic held in with two screws would be the easiest to install, would keep the cables pretty tidy but would be a little harder to rewire than a gated bolt system.  You could probably find some U bolts that would work, but I have a feeling even they will project more than necessary from the back.

I think I like the bolts idea, although for an even less expensive, easier to install setup you could use broad headed screws.  You could gate it with some insulated wire stiff enough to take a couple wraps around the bolt head to hold on.  Or rubber bands, if you don't mind replacing them every year or two.  That would make rewiring easier than the other setups and still be very cheap to build and repair.  It is also not sensitive to bolt spacing so you could size each tiedown to fit the bundle of wires coming through instead of being stuck with one or two sizes for everything from 1 to 9 wires.  A third bolt in the middle would allow you to segment wires within a tiedown, if that matters.

Think you're right. I'm going with bolts, rather than screws because the back panel is pretty thin plywood. Cable weight adds up quick, so washers on both sides. Also concur on the rubber bands. If I use anything other than the cheapest PRC brand rubber bands, they will last years. They won't be moved once put in place, and will be out of sunlight. Bolt heads will definitely keep the band from slipping off.

Don't think I'll segment wires with a third bolt, probably just velcro the cable bundles. Sleeving would look kinda cool, but probably more of nuisance than help. Still, maybe.

[MechAg94]

I was thinking you could cut the back side of the verticals on either side of the center cabinet.  Set up essentially vertical cable trays on one side or both.  Run cables along that to the level of the device and jump off.  Install tray or something you can fasten the cables to.  I am thinking you could just slot the back side vertically instead of drilling a bunch of holes.  

[Scout26]

Wire duct is your friend.

Example:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wire-duct/=wuk2uq

I like this solution.  Simply run them up the verticals with power on one side and input/output on the other side. 

If not that, then I'd go with the velcro bands solution.

[RevDisk]

Wire duct is your friend.

Example:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wire-duct/=wuk2uq

I like the snap on cover.

1x 30 in
1x 24 in
1x 18 in
3x 12 in
1x 9 in

I'd need 2x 6 foot sections, inch and a half tall. So, $60 plus shipping. Probably more than 6x the cost of the bolts solution, but cleaner and quicker install... 

I was thinking you could cut the back side of the verticals on either side of the center cabinet.  Set up essentially vertical cable trays on one side or both.  Run cables along that to the level of the device and jump off.  Install tray or something you can fasten the cables to.  I am thinking you could just slot the back side vertically instead of drilling a bunch of holes.  

Sorry, not following that one?

[MechAg94]

Sorry, not following that one?

Yeah, I figured that wouldn't come across very well.  Couldn't think of a better way to say it at the time.

Sort of the wire duct idea but inset into the cabinet instead of fastened on the backside.  Cut a slot out of the back to set the wire duct in and make it easy to access the wiring from the back.  


I am not sure what you would call wiring ducts like this.  I can't remember seeing anything similar at Lowes though.  Might be more than you were looking for.

[lee n. field]

On the other end of the scale.....

[AJ Dual]

All our desks at work have that same square flanged/slotted wire-duct.  It works well.

There are some downsides, getting all the teeth/flanges to click back into the cap strip can be a PITA, but generally, that's because you're doing it on your back from under a desk.

And there's some unsupported runs of it that span desk legs or columns etc. that hold up the desk systems, or a disconnected chunk of the wire-duct was patched in to make a length work. Then it's wobbly and won't hold together.

If it's all screwed flat to a board, it's great stuff. 

An outlet strip like this or one of the server-rack options would be great too. Depending if UPS battery backup gets in the way or not.

http://www.tripplite.com/power-strip-12-outlets-15-ft-cord-vertical~PS3612/

[TechMan]

Also check out Panduit's cables.  They have introduced a CAT6 patch cable that uses 28AWG cables, so the overall nominal diameter is almost 1/2 the overall nominal diameter of a standard CAT6 cable.


ETA: https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/Z07itiSAKaZIvsnqXxyqcZJfFWTTiHz0UtTNqN9awD0?ref_=cd_share_link_copy_flash

[lupinus]

Pft. Duct tape and zip ties ftw.

[MechAg94]

Pft. Duct tape and zip ties ftw.

Zip ties would work fine.  Just install some kind of grating or base that you can tie the cables down to.  That is sort of what I pictured in my disjointed first post.  

If you look at cable trays and cabinets at chemical plants, there are thousands of zip ties inside and outside.  They are just too convient to hold wire bundles together and easily removed/replaced at need.

[RevDisk]

So, did buy a "Cable Raceway Duct with Cover". Cut it into sections, mounted them already. About to paint.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066HOPM/

Next problem...  There's not many 8 to 1 HDMI switches. Did find one with good reviews and pricing on Monoprice.



Problem is, the hardware is rack mount, not flat mount. Thoughts?    

[bedlamite]

Problem is, the hardware is rack mount, not flat mount. Thoughts?    

[lee n. field]

Or get a rack.

[RevDisk]

Close enough. Thinking three L brackets, and a Velcro strap. I was pondering on cracking the case and tapping through the lid, but not enough clearance.

[cordex]

Close enough. Thinking three L brackets, and a Velcro strap. I was pondering on cracking the case and tapping through the lid, but not enough clearance.

What about adhesives?  I am thinking a handful of those 3M temporary hook hanging strips.

[birdman]

Velcro wire ties (I've completely switched from zip ties to these)
Then, since the soft/loop side is exposed once you wrap it, hold bundle to surface with hook-side self-adhesive Velcro dots.
That way, (if you are like me and reconfiguring periodically) you aren't cursing / cutting zip ties. 

Velcro cable ties and dots FTW

[41magsnub]

If you need to run cable from the rack to another part of the house, here is a handy example to follow (found this at a new customer today).

[RevDisk]

Final painting, some drilling, placement of industrial grade velcro for IR repeater (not shown), router, modem, Eth switch, HDMI switch, power.

Rigged so there is extremely minimal crossover of power and data to reduce EMI. All crossover is limited to small power draws, and perpendicular to reduce induction. The Netgear was the only unit with power on the opposite side, so I drilled a hole and ran power cable through the unit. I pondered wrapping data raceways with 3M Shielding PET Rip-stop Fabric Tape or Parker Chomerics CHO-FAB EMI shielding tapes, but declined for the moment. Yes, there are limits to my insanity, apparently.



Started wire runs, just power and ethernet. You can see the IR signal repeater. As ports for two IR receivers, and five double emitters. Highly recommended, it's on Monoprice for under $20. I have used it in dozens of conference rooms. Great for flat mounting.



Power, ethernet and HDMI.


Installed and FULLY OPERATIONAL


Power could have been a bit more clean, but that's due to the wall warts. Shockingly everything worked the first time plugged in, yay wiring schematics!  Except I didn't have a CR-2025 coin battery for the HDMI switch remote. Doh. Picked one up, so now yay!


Total cost:

Paint and sanding gear : $100+ I spent too much and went with spray paint. Very easy to deploy and cleanup, so I don't regret it too much.
Wood : $0, perk of the job.
Screws and bolts : $30, ended up buying way more than I needed because of ideas that didn't pan out.
Furniture dolly : $25 and worth every penny.
Canvas drop cloth : $10, definitely better than plastic tarp.
IR repeater was $20, HDMI switch was $80.

Lessons learned:
Circular saw sucks for straight cuts, I need to buy a gorram table saw. Field alternative is clamping a metal straight edge to the wood and then cutting.
Should probably switch to regular paint if I want to be economic. Spray paint gun is probably too expensive alternative.

[MechAg94]

Nice.  I like it.