Tool Trouble... Repair or Replace?

[spinr]

In my weekend bitch thread, I commented on the problem I experienced with my DeWalt drill.  Here's the text of it from my post:

My relatively new DeWalt cordless drill took a dump.  About a dozen screws into the project, it farted and locked up.  Changed batteries, tried different speeds & torque settings... nothing, pull the trigger and it won't make a peep.  I toss it aside and break out the handy-dandy $19 corded Skil drill I got at WallyWorld and commence to shelving again.  Bout 15 minutes later I happen to pick up the DeWalt to move it and notice the damn thing is exothermic.  It's HOT, like warp-core-breach hot.  Pulled out the battery, cussed it to no end, stomped around the house a bit, and got back to shelving.

For reference the drill is only about one and a half years old.  

I contacted DeWalt about my issue.  Based on my description, the tech at the service center said it was likely a problem with the switch.  Although the drill has a 3-year limited warranty on workmanship & materials, the he said the nature of the problem wouldn't fall under that warranty.  I don't see why not, though.  In the time I've had it, I've probably used it less than a dozen times and it wasn't hard use at that.  In fact it still looks nearly new.  I'm a bit miffed about this and turned off about DeWalt in general.  Seems like this would be just the kind of thing covered by 3-year deal.

At any rate, the DeWalt tech was actually very nice and helpful.  He offered me a few options.

1. I can send it off to the factory service center in Knoxville to have it repaired.  The gentleman I spoke with there said that at most it would cost $99 and likely the charge would actually be around $70-$75.

2.  I can take it to a nearby retailer that is an authorized service center.  I called them and explained the problem but the dude I spoke with wouldn't offer any ideas on the matter.  He bluntly stated that he have to see if first-hand.  I told him of my contact with the factory service center & their thoughts on what was wrong and that I was trying to determine if it was worth my while to drive half an hour to his establishment, but he still wouldn't give me the smallest iota assistance.  I understand the need to go hands-on with the drill to determine the problem, but I would've expected that he could have at least offered a hypothetical on the issue; i.e. if it is this problem, then it'll probably cost this much.  I'm kinda' miffed about this too.

3.  I can order the suspect part directly from DeWalt and attempt repair on my own.  I know I can get the drill apart and I can probably even get the switch changed, but I don't know about getting it all back together properly.  Not to mention, the switch may not be the problem at all; it could be the motor or even just a bad wire.

Now to further complicate things, or maybe simplify as it seems, I've found a whole slew of the exact same model of my drill on eBay for $70 + $13 shipping.  See: DeWalt DW959

Seems silly to repair when I can replace for about the same money.

Then there's the issue if I should stay with DeWalt or go for another manufacturer.  The DeWalt has been a good drill until now.  What's more, it I got it as part of a combo kit that came with a circular saw, reciprocating saw (sawzall) and a work light that all use the same battery.  It's nice to have a common component and not have to hassle with all kinds of different power & charging systems.  But then, the whole experience has soured me on DeWalt and I wonder if the pasture might be greener with another brand.



Any input y'all might offer is appreciated!

Thanks,
Steve

[Harold Tuttle]

i usually take em apart

douse the switches with wd 40

re plug all the wires and see what happens

sometimes it works
OCCASIONALLY IT CATCHES FIRE

[charby]

don't use wd-40

use TV tuner cleaner form radio shack to clean the switch. I use this to clean reversing units in my 1950's era toy trains, so far no fire.

(if there was a fire I'd be pissed)


-C

[280plus]

Get a Milwaukee...

[Harold Tuttle]

but not an Old Milwaukee

the catch on fire part is not related to the WD-40

sometimes bad shorty switches spark off

[client32]

Take it apart and look.

The first time my DeWalt drill took a drop, I opened it up and a wire that connect from the switch to the motor had worked loose.  I have a feeling that it was never on there good, but I digress.  Re-attached and have been going stong ever since.

[lupinus]

take it apart and look

worst that happens is you see a lot of crap you have no idea what they are and can't get it back together.  The bright side is the damn thing don't work anyway so you wont be any worse off.

Bought a truck like that once, didn't work, got it for fifty bucks cause the guy just wanted it gone.  I had a lota fun tearing that thing apart even though at the time I had no idea what 90% of it was lol.

[Mannlicher]

buy a new one from eBay, then you have a working drill, and a spare battery.

[bedlamite]

DeWalt went down the tubes when Black and Decker purchased the company about 10 or so years ago. Milwaukee and Bosch are the only ones I'd consider spend money on.

[crt360]

Buy the eBay one and take your broken one apart.  If you can't fix it and your new one quits on you, buy a Milwaukee.

[Guest]

1. Send the one that does not work to someone you hate, that is anal-retentive about tools.

Now that you have rec'd some  "satisfaction" from the DeWalt...


2. Get whatever is on sale , with an extra battery and local.

I have been observing and taking notes on "power tools".  Seems all these "mfgs" are pretty much under the same umbrella. Meaning "re-branding" takes place.  Mfg's A , B C ...make certain models, and then amongst themselves re-label.  Then add "home brands" made to fit  "low bid"  specs.

A special "run" of features for a Franchise and then if you look - not listed in catalog.


OLDer power tools, made as they used to be, one can find parts sometimes and repair.   We fixed a '60's model Sunbeam electric drill not long ago.  Drill worked all these years and just needed a contact re soldered, we did install a new cord while we had it apart.


Warranty?  Ha!   Brand New Craftsman "Lifetime Warranty" 3/8 socket set.   First time I used it to undo the battery terminals, it broke, I mean the ratchet come all apart.

I finished the battery install with a Harbor Frieght $6.99 el cheapo socket set.  The terminals were not that tight [side mount].
I had to undo the "crash bar" to get the battery out. Them bolts were "on there".  El Cheapo worked, though I had closed, open end wrenches for backup.

Sears would NOT warranty the Ratchet - "This particular one is not a lifetime Craftsman"
"Box says so, sales reciept says so..."

Not worth the hassle. My lady friend was pissed to say the least.  She found some OLD  JC Penny "Penncraft" ratchets , and sockets, and other wrenches at a yard sale.  She also bought a OLD brace and bit, hand axe and ..."honey , I got stuff, not sure what all I got, but I got it for not a lot of money....you get to help me clean it up..."


I have some of these JC Penny tools - I got mine in '74, and they still work.

Ryobi is the power stuff I last used, it worked, did not play out, did not catch fire...survived a dog chewing on it...worked for me.


"Planned Obselescence"  -  Been here for some time -now  not going to leave anytime soon.

[Car Knocker]

buy a new one from eBay, then you have a working drill, and a spare battery.

The one linked on E-Bay doesn't include a battery.

Sneaky, aren't they.

INCLUDES:

 ▪ 18v 1/2" Cordless Drill (DW959)
  ▪ Screwdriver bit
 ▪
 Instruction Manual

This is a tool only auction

Looks like the ones with batteries are going for $25 more.

[Mabs2]

i usually take em apart

douse the switches with wd 40

re plug all the wires and see what happens

sometimes it works
OCCASIONALLY IT CATCHES FIRE

My kind of post.
WOO!

[spinr]

I took the drill apart tonight.  Was rather simple, really.

The switch popped right out and the wiring is connected by a couple of easily removeable blade terminals.

If I had a new switch, I'd be in business.

I can get a switch direct from DeWalt for $40 + $7 shipping, $47 total.  Can't seem to find one listed anywhere else.  But then I don't know that the switch is the actual problem.

SSsssooooo... $47 for a switch and hope that fixes it, or spend $36 more and just get a new drill off eBay.

I like the idea of fixing it myself, that'd be a nice victory of sorts for me.  But if it ain't the switch that's broke, it'll be more hassle than it's worth.  

Ugh!  I'm conflicted...

[280plus]

Yup, for an extra $36 bucks you get a whole new drill. Hmmmm, I'm the type that would get a new drill and fix the other one, now I have a spare. I have 2 12 volt Milwaukee's because the first one has been through hell and a couple 20 foot falls onto concrete. I think the second fall did it in. It still works but you can tell it's a bit ill.

I took a broke ratchet back to sears once, all they would do is give me the parts to repair it.

[griz]

Although the drill has a 3-year limited warranty on workmanship & materials, the he said the nature of the problem wouldn't fall under that warranty.

What WOULD be covered if not a switch?  I think I would pursue the warranty further.  Dewalt made their reputation on durability and should want to make their customers happy.

[Harold Tuttle]

check the switch as the trouble spot by jumpering the 2  heavy leads heading into it, together

alligator clipped wire is ideal for this process


switches like this are designed for thousands of  cycles

its should not fail in a physical  manner
but leads can get loose or the reed can get blocked

does it click like it used to when activated?

[Art Eatman]

If the "Tuttle process" provides the answer, you can wire the switch as "always on" and then add an in-line switch in the cord for a short-term solution while you get a new switch.

Art

[spinr]

Harold, thanks for reminding me to actually try testing the switch.  I can be a real moron sometimes, it just never crossed my mind.  I dug out my multimeter and went at it...

Turns out the switch works fine, I think.  I checked the battery for control to ensure it was putting out 18 volts, then connected the switch to the battery.  Testing the output terminals on the switch, it was putting out the full 18 volts the battery offered when I depressed the trigger and stopped transmitting power when the trigger was released.  

Next, with the switch still attached to the battery, I connected it to the motor.  Checked the terminals on the motor and it only had 10V of current at the input terminals.  When I depressed the switch the motor lurched slightly like it wanted to move, but then locked in place.  Pulsing the switch I can hear somthing trying to work in the motor, just no movement.  In the short time I had the motor connected to the switch/power source, it started heating up and actually got rather hot.  That was without me depressing the switch.  It even seemed to emit that 'ozone' odor of fried electrics.  Furthermore the motor seems to be locked up tight.  I can't even get it to turn by hand.  Obviously, there's a problem with the motor.

Here's what has me confused.  The motor gets hot when connected to the switch & battery, even without the switch activated.  With everything connected, but without the switch activated, my meter doesn't show any current going to the motor.  When the switch is activated, the meter only reads 10V at the motor.  If there's apparantly not any current going to the motor when it's connected to the battery, how is it getting so hot, like it is getting power?  As I've said, all of my tests indicate the switch is functioning properly, but that seems counterintuitive to what's actually happening.  It would seem there would have to be a problem with the switch in order for the motor to be heating up like it is.

Now, here's some possibly good news.  A replacement motor direct from DeWalt only costs $21 + $7 shipping.  So it would seem I can fix this thing for only $28!  That's provided it's just the motor and there's not also a problem with the switch.

Damn... I'm not sure what to make of this mess anymore.

I really want to thank each of you for the help you've all provided me.  If all works out, it looks like I may only be out slightly less than $30, rather than nearly three times that much; and I owe that to you fine folks.

Thanks!

[cfabe]

If this is a variable speed drill, the switch you have is not just a switch in the electrical sense, but a switching transistor and a small circuit to turn the motor on/off at various duty cycles. This is why you can hear the motor squeal if you give it just a tiny bit of power, but not enough to spin the chuck, that tone is the frequency of the transistor switching.

I would suggest taking a piece of wire and jumping across where the switch would go, taking the switch out of the circuit entirely. The motor should run full speed if it is good. If not, it's the motor, if it does, then there's something wrong with the switch assembly.

Also, the 10V at the motor when the switch is fully on may be correct. I believe some of these tools are designed to never apply full battery voltage to the motor.

[Mongo]

Can you turn the chuck?

It sounds like a bad gear or something...

or ... Check the brushes for the motor.

Several brands (Bosch and Makita) have removable, user replacable brushes.

[meinbruder]

Whoa there spin180

I used to work in the tools and building material industry.  I had a customer walk in with a brand new in the box cordless drill with the same problem.  He drove a dozen screws and then nothing.  While on the phone with the manufacturer rep, I caught a whiff of smoke.  The battery had shorted internally and the switch contact was the first thing to burn out, then the battery started to smolder in the casing.  I took it outside and put it on the edge of the sidewalk where it generated more smoke for over an hour.  

I would advise tossing the whole thing, drill, charger, and battery if you dont send it for repair.  Likewise, send all three to the factory for examination.  The fault could be in any of them and repeat the process in the future.
Mike


}:)>

In my weekend bitch thread, I commented on the problem I experienced with my DeWalt drill.  
Seems silly to repair when I can replace for about the same money.

Then there's the issue if I should stay with DeWalt or go for another manufacturer.  The DeWalt has been a good drill until now.  What's more, it I got it as part of a combo kit that came with a circular saw, reciprocating saw (sawzall) and a work light that all use the same battery.  It's nice to have a common component and not have to hassle with all kinds of different power & charging systems.  But then, the whole experience has soured me on DeWalt and I wonder if the pasture might be greener with another brand.

http://sfp180.smugmug.com/photos/87003246-M.gif

Any input y'all might offer is appreciated!

Thanks,
Steve

[USP45usp]

Dump that crappy DeWalt.

I go with Black and Decker.  I had a cordless drill "explode" on me (the battery shorted out) and it destroyed the whole drill.

Emailed Black and Decker and explained the problem.  They said to send it in.

I mailed it to them (and had to pay for hazardous material charges for the busted battery and could only use UPS).

They mailed me a NIB drill along with a check for my Shipping and Handling.

This was about a year ago, I don't know if they still have the same service.  They also sent me a coupon for 15% off any Black and Decker tool.  

I ended up buying their four pack of tools and haven't had trouble since.

Wayne

[lupinus]

USP-
You do relize DeWalt is basically black and deckers more heavy duty industrial brand right?

Black and Decker bought DeWalt out in 1960 and manufacturs DeWalt as a more heavy duty industrial line while the actual Black and Decker line is less expensive and geared for home use.

Also owned by Black and Decker-
Porter Cable
Delta Machinery
Kwikset
Baldwin
Weiser Lock
Price Pfister
Ermhart Teknologies

[spinr]

Well the mystery may be solved...

Played around with the motor some more.  Took the brushes out (they were fine BTW), got some light shining into the body to see if there was anything out of place and what should I see?  Little pieces of the motor magnet built up around the ventilation holes.  Poked around with a small screwdriver and needlenose pliers and I started pulling chunks of the magnet out of the motor.  With further inspection I can see that the magnet has virtually disentegrated for some reason.  Apparantly that's why the motor is locked up and won't spin.

Could this be why the motor is heating up when it's connected to the switch and battery?  Surely the switch and the motor didn't go bad at the same time?

I would suggest taking a piece of wire and jumping across where the switch would go, taking the switch out of the circuit entirely. The motor should run full speed if it is good. If not, it's the motor, if it does, then there's something wrong with the switch assembly.

Makes no difference.  As I mentioned the motor is seized, and direct connection only causes a couple of sparks while the motor sits lifelessly.

I would advise tossing the whole thing, drill, charger, and battery if you dont send it for repair.  Likewise, send all three to the factory for examination.  The fault could be in any of them and repeat the process in the future.

See, this thing is part of a kit.  It came with three other tools that operate with the same battery.  I have two batteries, both charge up fine and both work fine in the other tools.  And I don't know which battery was in the drill when things went bad.  Realistically I'd have to toss both batteries.  If I did that along with the charger then I'll really be frakked!


For the cost of a motor, I'm tempted to buy a new one and try it out anyway.  Don't have anything to lose and I can return it if things don't work out, so I won't be out anything.  If the switch is bad as well, then it's eBay time...

:/