Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Northwoods on July 07, 2020, 11:42:13 AM
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Got an Alaskan chainsaw mill, and a chainsaw big enough to run a 36" bar. Going to drop a large big leaf maple for a neighbor, and it's one I'd like to mill into lumber. Got a gallon of Anchorseal coming.
What's the best way to apply it? Brush, sponge, cotton rag, etc?
ETA: not really set up for spraying it.
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Get the seal to wrap the anchor around it.
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If it's thin enough I use a sprayer.
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A brush will be the simplest method. Give it a couple of coats.
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What's the best way to apply it? Brush, sponge, cotton rag, etc?
Step One: Pay some kid ten bucks to slop it on.
Step Two: ??
Step Three: Profit!
Brad
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After you seal the ends, take the time to make level blocking , and sticker the stack with maple stickers. Cover it with a tarp so it can get airflow, leaving space at the bottom and top of the pile.
Unless you have a kiln, of course.
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Not sure when I'll mill stuff, but I'll probably make a shed similar to what you use for firewood where I'll have a level and flat spot to stack the boards. Got some 1x2s I might use for stickers. Or when I mess up milling something I'll use that to make stickers.
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I've sawn (white, red, & burr) oak, pine/cedar, walnut and ash with a portable bandsaw mill. We never sealed the ends, just stacked outdoors undercover with stickers every foot of so and let it air dry for a few years.
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I've sawn (white, red, & burr) oak, pine/cedar, walnut and ash with a portable bandsaw mill. We never sealed the ends, just stacked outdoors undercover with stickers every foot of so and let it air dry for a few years.
And you don’t get end splitting as it dries? Or you just don’t care for how that wood is going to be used?
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And you don’t get end splitting as it dries? Or you just don’t care for how that wood is going to be used?
Some splits, most don't, depends what part of the log it was cut from. It is also going to dry from all sides of sawn board, but more out the end grain. A slow dry with proper sticker placement prevents splitting and warping. If wasn't able to stack and dry sawn lumber in a place that wasn't shaded and out of the wind, I'd seal the end of the log before sawing. Placing a sticker close to the end grain also reduces checkering. Wider the board, more attitude it will give you drying.
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I brushed it on with a throw away brush. It was kind of waxy IIRC.