Post by: Nick1911 on September 02, 2008, 05:47:13 PM
There's about 3" of 3/4 inch galvanized steel pipe sticking out of the foundation. Then there is a galvanized steel gate valve that routs the water 90 degrees. From there, it turns to a copper water pipe which feeds the house. I think the copper to valve is a flare fitting, but I'm not really sure.
How much of a pain in the a$$ is this going to be? What tools and strategies should I use? I'm thinking 2 big pipe wrenches, working against each other to keep from damaging the steel supply pipe. That said, I've never done this before.
Post by: Stevie-Ray on September 02, 2008, 08:04:00 PM
Post by: 280plus on September 03, 2008, 12:41:10 AM
Post by: Firethorn on September 03, 2008, 02:11:40 AM
Post by: ilbob on September 03, 2008, 04:30:50 AM
In my village the water department charges like $45 to come out and turn off the water at the street and turn it back on later, as long as it is in normal working hours. Outside of normal working hours they charge something like $300 per trip, so getting it turned off and back on during abnormal hours is like $600 rather than $45.
I had an issue once requiring it be shut off at the street. The water department allowed the plumber to turn the water off/on at the street, so I did not have to pay the $45.
make sure the plumber puts a ball valve in to replace the gate valve.
Post by: richyoung on September 03, 2008, 04:57:15 AM
Post by: ilbob on September 03, 2008, 05:19:47 AM
Your water meter should have a master shut off valve. Its perfectly legal to turn your own water on or off at this valve, so long as the bill is current. You can even turn it on yourself after its been shut off for a delinquent bill, so long as the bill has been brought up to current. Any home imporvement store can sell you a tool to turn this valve (big T-handle looking thingee) for about $12, or you can reach in with a big crescent wrench or channel locks and turn it, if there is enough room in your meter box.
A lot of places do not have this kind of setup. many have the main shutoff at the street and the meter inside the house.
Post by: Tallpine on September 03, 2008, 05:39:17 AM
BTDT 
Now, all I do to turn off the water is flip the breaker off
Post by: Firethorn on September 03, 2008, 06:11:40 AM
A lot of places do not have this kind of setup. many have the main shutoff at the street and the meter inside the house.
This is my house. Oh, and it's a small enough place that the water guy is just that - he's the only one. Got the water turned off and back on for free. I actually have 3 valves I can use to turn off my water, it's just that you can't do much when the leak is before the first valve leading to the meter.
Post by: Perd Hapley on September 03, 2008, 08:02:11 AM
Post by: Stevie-Ray on September 03, 2008, 04:18:14 PM
Quote
A lot of places do not have this kind of setup. many have the main shutoff at the street and the meter inside the house.
Yep, that's us. Pipe comes up from the floor in the basement and meets one gate valve. This is the main-the one I assumed he was talking about not working none too well, and the worst one to go bad. After the main is the meter, and after the meter is the secondary. (Usually a gate valve until replumbed, then butterfly type) If your main is shot, (like I thought mine was) you need to turn off the water outside, and this requires the water dept. or at least a licensed plumber.
Post by: RandyinArizona on September 07, 2008, 02:21:50 PM
Install a new shutoff valve between the frozen place and the house.
Allow the frozen area to thaw, problem solved.
BTW, Have plenty of dry ice. AND all the parts to install the new valve IF the line breaks instead of unscrewing at the gate valve or the copper tubing flare.
2
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on September 07, 2008, 03:32:25 PM
Post by: Nick1911 on September 07, 2008, 03:52:05 PM
I called the water company on Friday and got the water shut off. Saturday I broke out my two big pipe wrenches and pulled the old valve off. It is a one inch, 90 degree valve. Flare on one side, and standard pipe thread on the other (NPT?)
Took the valve to Home Depot and was promptly told that they do not carry any valves with flare fittings. So, I decided to try a dedicated hardware store - Ace. I've actually run into this situation before - turns out that "home improvement store" =/= "hardware store".
Ace didn't have anything flared larger then 3/4". The sales guy I talked to recommended a plumbing supply store; "The plumbers friend". The valve was expensive ($30), but they had the valve in stock. The sales guy was ridiculously helpful. Small specialty shops rocks.
The valve went in without a hitch. because I'm nervous about the fitting leaking on the main valve, I hooked my air compressor into the cold line where the washer normally hooks up and pressurized the system to 50 psi. Then, I went around with a bottle of soapy water and a brush and looked for leaks. Figured if it works on tires, it'll work on pipes!
Anyway - no leaks with air pressure. We'll see if it holds up after I have the water turned on this Monday.
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on September 07, 2008, 04:07:17 PM
Post by: Nick1911 on September 07, 2008, 04:48:25 PM
hope all you have is 50 psi on the main.
Isn't 50psig about what residential water pressure normally runs?
Also - if I didn't see any seeping at 50psi, barring something totally letting go (which isn't likely), shouldn't I be good up to the ratings of the fittings?
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on September 07, 2008, 05:04:11 PM
Post by: Stevie-Ray on September 07, 2008, 09:18:13 PM
Quote
Isn't 50psig about what residential water pressure normally runs?
Actually, it's supposed to be 40.
Post by: 280plus on September 08, 2008, 02:03:04 AM
