Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Ben on January 08, 2020, 11:11:31 AM
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I'm guessing this is new, and I've not seen it in my Costco, but they are apparently selling Kirkland motor oil now.
I'm curious on who's making it for them and what the manufacturer equivalent is (e.g., if it's Mobil, is it regular Mobil 1 or the super duper Mobil 1?).
https://www.costco.com/motor-oil.html?brand=kirkland-signature&refine=ads_fbrand_ntk_cs%253A%2522Kirkland%2BSignature%2522|
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I don't know about Costco Oil, but I buy Supertech Synthetic from Wal-Mart, it's way cheaper than Mobil 1 and offers the same warranties. Supertech is made by Warren Oil Company, Inc.
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Google says Kirkland oil is made by Warren Oil Company, Inc. also.
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The API oil specs are so strict now that there's really no bad oil anymore. Unless you think they are cheating on their API certification then the cheapest oils should be just as good as the brand names.
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Since we have the oil changed in the cars during routine service, the only oil I buy anymore is for the motorcycle, and my gallon jug of Rotella Synthetic from Walmart will probably outlast me.
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Google says Kirkland oil is made by Warren Oil Company, Inc. also.
Yep, same as Amazon Basics oil. Should be really good stuff.
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I'm guessing this is new, and I've not seen it in my Costco, but they are apparently selling Kirkland motor oil now.
I'm curious on who's making it for them and what the manufacturer equivalent is (e.g., if it's Mobil, is it regular Mobil 1 or the super duper Mobil 1?).
https://www.costco.com/motor-oil.html?brand=kirkland-signature&refine=ads_fbrand_ntk_cs%253A%2522Kirkland%2BSignature%2522|
Holy wow. That's a great price! 10qts for $30...
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I don't know about Costco Oil, but I buy Supertech Synthetic from Wal-Mart, it's way cheaper than Mobil 1 and offers the same warranties. Supertech is made by Warren Oil Company, Inc.
From what I gather from various motorcycle forums, Mobil 1 is sort of overrated... However, in my experience, it works pretty good in my subaru, I get 7500 miles without any issues with their 0W20. When I have it changed at Jiffy Lube, whatever synthetic they use tends to burn a quart at about 5000 miles.
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What year is your Scooby?
There was a class action lawsuit against Subaru because of the oil burn rates of the engine design that they had come out with around 2008, IIRC.
Mine is one of the burners, and it's a 2012.
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What year is your Scooby?
There was a class action lawsuit against Subaru because of the oil burn rates of the engine design that they had come out with around 2008, IIRC.
Mine is one of the burners, and it's a 2012.
2014. I've heard that earlier years and up to 2014 can be pretty bad. With known quality oil, it barely uses any oil, with whatever garbage they put in at Jiffy lube, it'll burn a quart between changes, so I'm led to believe that its an oil problem with mine.
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From what I gather from various motorcycle forums, Mobil 1 is sort of overrated...
I always used it in all my previous vehicles, but for my current vehicles, I take the 4Runner to the dealer, and on my F150 Ecoboost, I've been using Penzoil Platinum rather than Mobil 1, based on info in the F150 forums regarding the ecoboosts and oil breakdown.
Kinda why I was wondering if the Costco oil is "Mobil 1" quality, or equivalent to a newer version of Mobil 1, which is supposed to be the same as Penzoil Platinum. Because, yeah, it's a great price and I wouldn't mind using it.
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I use full synthetic oil but believe that filter choice and interval is atleast as critical. I been going 8k on the oil with a filter change at 4K miles. The topside canister type filter on the jeep makes it super easy to change the filter only and the oil looks like new again a day later. I might should opt for one of those lab eval services sometime.
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I really need to get into the habit of changing the filter on my Forester midway between oil changes. It also has a very easily accessed filter right on top of the engine.
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I'm of the opinion that any oil of the appropriate grade and viscosity is perfectly adequate. I run Walmart Supertech oil, and change it on schedule.
The bodyshell of my car will have rusted to nothing, or some kid will T-bone it long before I have oil related mechanical failure.
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Changing the filter in between oil changes is an interesting thought. On my F150, I use the oil meter, so routinely go to around 7500 miles in between changes. I'm actually changing that one in a couple of hours here - meter is at 12% and 7100 miles. That filter sits right on top too.
I used to be an, "every 5000 miles like clockwork" guy, and in the really old days, "every 3000 miles like clockwork".
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Changing the filter in between oil changes is an interesting thought. On my F150, I use the oil meter, so routinely go to around 7500 miles in between changes. I'm actually changing that one in a couple of hours here - meter is at 12% and 7100 miles. That filter sits right on top too.
I used to be an, "every 5000 miles like clockwork" guy, and in the really old days, "every 3000 miles like clockwork".
I've done it for years. My ex father in law was an airplane mechanic and he swore by it and it always made sense to me. The visual difference is obvious in the newly filtered older oil so I assume if it looks cleaner it probably is and it certainly wouldn't make it any worse.
I now use wix or Napa gold (same thing) in everything including the kubota tractor oil and and hydro.
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Check out this guy's oil tests: Project Farm, 888K subscribers - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9DWGtXpYUc&list=PLjT3B9r2z3fXlvbP3tb9e056Q8O5krrCW
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"On my F150, I use the oil meter"
WTF is an oil meter?
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"On my F150, I use the oil meter"
WTF is an oil meter?
Oil meter, oil life monitor, whatever you want to call the doohickey that monitors oil life and lets you know when it's time to change the oil. I don't know exactly how they work, but mine definitely isn't a simple "clock". I have seen it fluctuate depending on my driving (e.g., long highway trips vs lots of stop and go).
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"On my F150, I use the oil meter"
WTF is an oil meter?
https://blog.amsoil.com/oil-life-monitors-everything-you-need-to-know/
I don't trust them, I change my oil according to the owners manual.
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"oil life monitor"
Ah! OK. I misread your post, actually. You meant the thing in the truck, not something you pull an oil sample out of the engine and run it through an analyzer.
Found an interesting article on oil life indicators...
https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/car-part-longevity/oil-life-indicator.htm
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https://blog.amsoil.com/oil-life-monitors-everything-you-need-to-know/
I don't trust them, I change my oil according to the owners manual.
My owners manual says to use the oil monitor.
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My owners manual says to use the oil monitor.
My 2018 Ford Fusion workmobile says change oil by mileage.
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My van meter just pinged at 5800 miles and about 10 months. Seems legit.
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My owners manual says to use the oil monitor.
My wife's CRV is the same way.
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My van meter just pinged at 5800 miles and about 10 months. Seems legit.
Yeah, I think the only "clock" they use (vs monitoring driving/engine activity or actual oil) is the one year clock, since I think pretty much every manufacturer says not to go beyond 12 months without an oil change. So pinging at lower than 7500 miles (which I think is also the new "average" for a change now) but at 10 months, sounds reasonable, especially if there was a lot of city driving.
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Check out this guy's oil tests: Project Farm, 888K subscribers - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9DWGtXpYUc&list=PLjT3B9r2z3fXlvbP3tb9e056Q8O5krrCW
That was an informative video for me. The "SN Plus" is I believe what the oil geeks at the F150 forums were talking about regarding not recommending regular Mobil 1 in the Ecoboost engines.
EDIT: Also, that cold weather flow test got me to thinking I'm an idiot. On my first 50 hour tractor oil change, I just used the regular Tractor Supply brand 15-40wt that everybody around here uses, but I notice I seem to be one of the only guys using his tractor for stuff in the Winter. Next scheduled oil change is not due until 500 hours, and I'm seriously thinking of draining what I just put in and replacing it with synthetic.
I only use synthetic in my vehicles. I don't know what I was thinking putting dino in the tractor, especially since the vehicles are garaged where it never gets below around 35, and the tractor is exposed to singe digits outside, and even in my shop it can get into the teens in the coldest weather.
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Yeah, I think the only "clock" they use (vs monitoring driving/engine activity or actual oil) is the one year clock, since I think pretty much every manufacturer says not to go beyond 12 months without an oil change. So pinging at lower than 7500 miles (which I think is also the new "average" for a change now) but at 10 months, sounds reasonable, especially if there was a lot of city driving.
Probably a one year clock, which counts faster with short trips, stop and go driving, driving in extreme conditions, etc...
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You can put an oil pan heater on your tractor and keep in in the shop. Those generally do a pretty good job of keeping the oil warm and fluid down to very low temperatures.
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You can put an oil pan heater on your tractor and keep in in the shop. Those generally do a pretty good job of keeping the oil warm and fluid down to very low temperatures.
Yeah, I did actually by an oil pan heater already. I haven't used it yet. So far when I've used the tractor this Winter it hasn't been a "gotta do it now" thing, and I wait till the afternoon when it gets into the 30's or more, or else run the torpedo heater in the shop if the tractor is in there to warm that space up a bit first.
If I expect to have to do something like clear snow at 0800 and 20 deg though, I'll definitely crank up the pan heater the evening before.
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Be careful with the pan heater, though. Some of them don't have a temperature limit on them, and will just continue to heat the oil pan continuously, depending on metal mass of the tractor itself to prevent the oil from overheating. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't.
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Be careful with the pan heater, though. Some of them don't have a temperature limit on them, and will just continue to heat the oil pan continuously, depending on metal mass of the tractor itself to prevent the oil from overheating. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't.
Mine has a thermostat, but your point is taken. I also didn't think about it when I bought it, but I have a split oil pan, so I should probably buy at least another smaller one so I have both pans covered.
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Google says Kirkland oil is made by Warren Oil Company, Inc. also.
Did some poking around and it looks like Warren Oil is to lubricants what MGP Ingredients is to distilled spirits. They are a big house-brand and custom-label producer.
Brad
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Your pan heater will work fine if you just plug it in 30 minutes or so before you want to use it. I wouldn't leave it on all night. (That's what inline radiator hose heaters and block heaters are for.)
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Your pan heater will work fine if you just plug it in 30 minutes or so before you want to use it. I wouldn't leave it on all night. (That's what inline radiator hose heaters and block heaters are for.)
How about for split pans? Will using a heater on just one side do okay?
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How about for split pans? Will using a heater on just one side do okay?
Diesel farm tractors turn over in sub zero temps with no heaters, I think you'll be okay warming one reservoir of oil on your tractor.
I did tillage this fall with a tractor just like this one below, it fired right up at -2F sitting in a field for 10 hours after I shut it off the night before.
(https://www.deere.com/assets/images/region-4/products/tractors/row-crop-tractors/8r-8rt-row-crop-tractors/8400r/8400r_r4g014751_large_ee6023b68e6de55eabbf2bfcdd74513676901838.jpg)
snow too... =D
(https://scontent.ffod1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/s960x960/74496449_10106830361323120_6350330226282594304_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_oc=AQlV7nZeQ53sxebbz6JVZ8nHO8WhnRqHH0N63dS0-2-ruOQgRntlHtxCOXv08SM6wbM&_nc_ht=scontent.ffod1-1.fna&_nc_tp=1&oh=d27389fb259ae56b745785590211c70d&oe=5E9AD415)
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How about for split pans? Will using a heater on just one side do okay?
Yeah you'll be fine. I recommend atleast synthetic blend if not full synthetic diesel motor oil. Cold starting is where you'll see the biggest difference. I just bought rotella T5 because it was on sale and I use a block heater and the tractor is kept in the barn. If it was colder winter use only or it sat outside I would use T6.
I don't bother plugging in the heater above 10f.
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"but I have a split oil pan, so I should probably buy at least another smaller one so I have both pans covered."
Don't know for sure, but my gut tells me you'd be fine with a heater only on one side.
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Yeesh. You haven't lived in cold cold, until you've slid a hibachi grill with some burning charcoal under your oil pan. :rofl:
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Yeesh. You haven't lived in cold cold, until you've slid a hibachi grill with some burning charcoal under your oil pan. :rofl:
I was going to post about building a small fire under the oil pan of a big block diesel/gasoline.
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Yeesh. You haven't lived in cold cold, until you've slid a hibachi grill with some burning charcoal under your oil pan. :rofl:
A long time ago when I lived in Minnesota I discovered under similar circumstances that propane heaters don't work when it gets really cold.
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Yep. Years ago it was charcoal briquettes in a galvanized hog pan under the oil pan.
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Yeesh. You haven't lived in cold cold, until you've slid a hibachi grill with some burning charcoal under your oil pan. :rofl:
A friend's Dad had an old 2 cylinder John Deere that was notoriously hard to start when the temperature got below 40 degrees. On really cold days when we had had snow and it was really cold we would build a fire in a half oil drum and when it had burned down pull it under the engine. Give that about 15 to 20 minutes, depending on how cold it was and how long the tractor had sat unstarted, and we'd give it a try. If it still needed a little help we'd aim an electric heat gun into the air intakes.
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I did tillage this fall with a tractor just like this one below, it fired right up at -2F sitting in a field for 10 hours after I shut it off the night before.
Good to know. I haven't experienced negative temps yet.
On the propane heaters, yeah, I learned that lesson in October. I keep a 20lb tank with one of those "screw on the tank" heaters in the wellhouse for emergencies, and trying it out in the single digits got me to go buy a kerosene heater at Tractor Supply. :laugh:
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A friend's Dad had an old 2 cylinder John Deere that was notoriously hard to start when the temperature got below 40 degrees. On really cold days when we had had snow and it was really cold we would build a fire in a half oil drum and when it had burned down pull it under the engine. Give that about 15 to 20 minutes, depending on how cold it was and how long the tractor had sat unstarted, and we'd give it a try. If it still needed a little help we'd aim an electric heat gun into the air intakes.
I had better luck starting those Johnny Poppers when it was below freezing. Turn the flywheel until you feel the intake valve open and then give it a very snappy but firm turn, as soon as it fired, shut the decompression valves. 1936 John Deere B, no electric start on the older ones.
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This was one of the older ones.
We did exactly what you said.
It needed to be heated up before it would start.
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My paternal grandfather had a Farmall H we used for digging post holes and shredding. We'd set up a branding iron heater under it (essentially a small butane-fueled open face forge), then lean barn tin against the sides to hold heat. It would get the tractor surprisingly warm.
Brad