Chain saw experts

[dm1333]

I'm looking for a chainsaw.  The main use is going to be cutting firewood (I have wood heat, need about a cord a year) so I don't need a real big saw but I would also like something that I can use with a chain saw mill if I ever build a post and beam structure and cut my own wood.

What saw would you recommend?

Would the Husqvarna 240 be adequate for this?  The reason why I am asking is that I can get one at a deeply discounted price.  I think the Husky would work great just for firewood but I don't have any experience with them. 

Are Craftsmen or Poulan saws any good?

[bedlamite]

I have a little $99 Poulan. It's a PITA to start, but once it's warmed up it works great. It's probably too light for a mill.

[roo_ster]

I've always been partial to pawn-shop-find Jonsereds.

[dm1333]

Well I just found a bunch of reviews on this saw and won't be buying it.  Too much plastic in it that breaks.  So I'm going to just see what people recommend for wood cutting and mill use. 

If I could find a Jonsered around here I would buy it, but there are no pawn shops within a three hour drive.  Most of the loggers here use Stihl but not from either of the saw shops in town.  Both shops are small, one also has a nursery, the other sells other types of power equipment.  The next time I drive over the hill I may stop into the Stihl dealer in Willits and see what they have in stock.

[tokugawa]

I have a 25 year old Husky 61 that has been rode hard and put away wet- still runs great- got it so filthy once cutting in a burn I pulled out the plug, shoved a garden hose into the carb and flushed it with water..... A few pulls to clear it, plug in , and it fired right off. That was 20 years ago. Starts third pull, after sitting for a year. Great saw.  Have no idea what new ones are like, though.

[Tallpine]

Are Craftsmen or Poulan saws any good?

NO!

Stihl and Husky are both good brands.  Everything else is junk IMO.

For chainsaw-milling lumber you will need the biggest saw that either Stihl or Husky makes (~ $1000 ?  ).  For the wear and tear on the saw, I think you can buy lumber cheaper, unless you're having to do it out in the bush somewhere.

What size firewood are you cutting?

Around here we have everything up to big old knotty pines almost three feet in diameter, so I still use my Stihl 046 with 30" bar (I think today's equivalent is the 460)

[dm1333]

I don't get to cut anything as thick as 3 ft most of the time, most of the wood is closer to 2 feet or even smaller.  I also have a contact with a local gardener and tree trimmer and get to pick over smaller downed trees or stuff that he has cut up.  It wouldn't bother me to go as large as a 30 inch bar but I don't really need something that big.

The Husky 240 reviews talked about plastic in the chain adjuster breaking and a few other things. 

[Chuck Dye]

The mill you expect to use will have some well defined specs for the saw used:  heed them.

'Round here, the Stihl vs Husqvarna argument is nearly as old and tiresome as Ford vs Chevy.  The quality of the shops and support available would turn me either way.  I do recommend getting a model or two higher up the power scale than the one that seems to be big enough, I don't think you will regret it.  If your dealer can do it, have him let you try, or at least see, the difference between the anti-kickback chains and the chisel bit chains.

[TechMan]

Check out this site for chainsaw reviews.

FWIW I have a Dolmar and it runs really good.

[zahc]

Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.

[Declaration Day]

Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.

Quoted for truth.

I'm a landscaper who cuts down and cuts up trees frequently.  I don't know which exact model will suit your needs, but I recommend a Stihl.  That's not to say Husqvarna isn't as good; I've simply never owned one.

[zxcvbob]

Echo is a good brand.  If you're thinking about sawmilling with it, you'd need at least a CS-660, and an CS-800 would be better.  That's a big heavy saw though for everything else...

[Tallpine]

Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.

Stihl brand chains are quite good, but also quite expensive.  I've got a couple more loops left on the last 100' roll of Oregon chain that I bought, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do when that runs out. 

I would recommend getting a saw big enough that uses the standard 3/8" pitch chain, rather than one of those little ones.

Keeping it sharp: I always carried a round file in my wedge pouch (or at least with my gas/oil cans) and sharpened three or four times during the day.  The least bit of cutting resistance was intolerable.  When you're making your living on scale, you've got to be cutting fast!

Echo is a good brand.

Whatever... 

When you're using a saw all day every day, the off brands (anything but Stihl or Husky) last maybe a month or two.  My current saw is 13 years old.  I used it professionally for about half a year and then been cutting all our own firewood since then, plus doing some fuel reduction and fire break work on our own place and for hire for some neighbors.  Last year I had to buy a spark plug for it. 

[cassandra and sara's daddy]

i'm another husky 612 owner  bought four of em used and partially disassembled (in a big box) for 200 bucks 15 years ago.  put 3 running ones together and run the heck out of em. killed one last year by dragging it 2 miles on asphalt.  i would like a bigger saw also looking into milling

[TMM]

another vote for husky/stihl. i have a Stihl which i swear by, and my buddy has a very nice Husky that he recently got and can only say good things about. i haven't used it, but held it and revved it, and i can say that it handles it's power very smoothly.

i'm no expert at sawmills... actually, i know nothing about them, but if i were to mill my own wood i'd see if i could rent a sawmill.

TMM

[KD5NRH]

Stihl and Husky are both good brands.  Everything else is junk IMO.

Depends on what you're doing; somewhere in the shop is a Poulan 16" with at least 15 years on it.  I think it was $50 used.

I'm using a Craftsman 18", ($80 used) and going through mesquites (3-12" trunks) like butter.  I've used the Poulan to slowly cut up a walnut that was about 30", but I should have just felled it then split it by hand.  In general for this area, 8-12" is the biggest thing you'll need to cut on a regular basis, with the bigger ones being a maybe-once-a-year job.  Standing-dead mesquite is pretty hard, (and rare - they're tough to kill) but with a sharp chain, it's easily manageable.  Bois d'arc wears chains out like you wouldn't believe, but even still, we've cut a lot up with that old Poulan.

I'm setting aside a bit of money from sales for a Husqvarna, but I suspect even once I get one, the Craftsman will stay in the truck as a better option than changing or sharpening a chain in the field.

[Boomhauer]

Forget milling your own wood, IMHO, unless you just absolutely can't let it go.

Let me tell you of a mistake my parents made when building their house...they used the wood off the property, sent it to a local sawmill, and made the mistake of not drying it long enough. This has caused problems. So, unless you are willing to wait a while for the wood to dry, it's going to give you issues of dimensional changes. And that's bad for precision stuff like houses, furniture, etc.

We use a couple of older Poulans, and we mainly cut with bows. We do have one 20" straight bar on one of the Poulans for felling trees. We use Oregon chains. Dad and I are looking at buying a Husky if we can find a bow blade to fit it.

[geronimotwo]

i've used both husky and stihl.  couldn't kill either, but the little homeowner stihl that i have right now is very easy to start and handle.  my only regret is that i can't swap chains with my buddies 046, as mine has a smaller pitch. stihl chains are more expensive, but they last and last if you don't hit the dirt with them.  something about higher chrome %.  i also think the chainsaw mills are a waste of time, unless you're in the middle of nowhere with no other means of getting lumber.  pain to set the first cut, and wear and tear on the saw is major for what you get.  the smaller pitch is fine for a couple cords of wood a year, but for the mill you would want the 3/8.  i used to use an old homelite "wiz" for the mill with a 30" bar and 1/2" pitch, but then couldn't find the chain around here anymore.  real shame as that saw had some torque.

[AJ Dual]

Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.

True, a quality chain can really "make the saw". Which makes sense, since it's the chain doing the cutting. The rest is just how good at making a 2-cycle engine the manufacturer is.

However, many people who own their first saw don't follow the owners manual and follow the tension adjustment schedule for a new saw and chain, which is every few cuts, or once every cut for big cuts in hard wood.

 

[KD5NRH]

True, a quality chain can really "make the saw". Which makes sense, since it's the chain doing the cutting. The rest is just how good at making a 2-cycle engine the manufacturer is.

There are some ergonomic considerations that could be easily solved by explaining to the engineers that a condition of continued employment will be that they each cut two cords of wood with a final design before it goes into mass production, but yes, chain and motor is pretty much all the saw consists of.

I've seen a few saws going cheap at flea markets and garage sales because they don't cut right.  Every time, I can run my hand down the bar without any fear of being cut by the original chain that came with the saw 3-5 years before.  Put a new chain on it, (that one's always long past the point where it can be sharpened) and it works like a champ.

[Chuck Dye]

Every manual I have read calls for sharpening the chain when the saw is refueled.  Every professional I have spoken with or watched work has done exactly that.  The couple of times I have failed to follow suit, I have found it worthwhile to stop and sharpen the chain.

[KD5NRH]

Every manual I have read calls for sharpening the chain when the saw is refueled.

Never heard that one, but I do tend to touch it up after a day of moderate use, or any time it seems to be trying too hard.  Probably comes out to about every other refueling.  A few strokes with the file when taking a break from cutting saves some harder work later.

Anybody using this sharpener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213  I know some HF stuff is hit-and-miss, but this looks like it might be simple enough for them to get it right.

[geronimotwo]

Never heard that one, but I do tend to touch it up after a day of moderate use, or any time it seems to be trying too hard.  Probably comes out to about every other refueling.  A few strokes with the file when taking a break from cutting saves some harder work later.

Anybody using this sharpener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213  I know some HF stuff is hit-and-miss, but this looks like it might be simple enough for them to get it right.

i have never had an electric sharpener.   usually i use the right file with a depth gauge on it. about $5.00 at the stihl dealer.  i do recommend "sharpening" every full tank of gas (which only takes about two minutes as you only pass the file across the teeth a few times each). if you hit the dirt, it's time to sharpen right then.  you should be aware of how the saw cuts with a new chain.  count how long it takes to get through an averaged size log.  a chain with even minor dulling will take 50-100% more time for each cut.  this not only wastes your time, it is effectively cutting the life of your saw in half.   look at the type of "sawdust" it's throwing.  there will be no actual "dust" with a sharp chain, it will be all small chips.  sharp teeth will not show a shiny cutting edge, as this glint only appears well after the teeth have started to "round" at the tips.  when needed i will take my chain to a pro for sharpening.  he will have a machine similar to the one above, but it should be oil cooled to avoid burning the teeth.

btw, the stihl saw that i have had since 2006 is a ms280 witha 20" bar.  i only cut maybe twice a year now but it is always easy to start, handle, and much less vibration than some.  i also have a husqy 266se that i bought in the early eighties that still runs great once started, but the stihl starts better after long storage.  both of them have an excellent chain brake.  i will not own a saw without one.  don't be fooled by the saws with the handguards that look similar to a hand brake.

never use your saw when tired or distracted if your life and limbs are important to you! 

[cassandra and sara's daddy]

Never heard that one, but I do tend to touch it up after a day of moderate use, or any time it seems to be trying too hard.  Probably comes out to about every other refueling.  A few strokes with the file when taking a break from cutting saves some harder work later.

Anybody using this sharpener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213  I know some HF stuff is hit-and-miss, but this looks like it might be simple enough for them to get it right.

yes and yes
says the guy with 30 chains hanging on his wall

[cassandra and sara's daddy]

Forget milling your own wood, IMHO, unless you just absolutely can't let it go.

Let me tell you of a mistake my parents made when building their house...they used the wood off the property, sent it to a local sawmill, and made the mistake of not drying it long enough. This has caused problems. So, unless you are willing to wait a while for the wood to dry, it's going to give you issues of dimensional changes. And that's bad for precision stuff like houses, furniture, etc.

We use a couple of older Poulans, and we mainly cut with bows. We do have one 20" straight bar on one of the Poulans for felling trees. We use Oregon chains. Dad and I are looking at buying a Husky if we can find a bow blade to fit it.


i've never used a bow blade   could you explain em to me?