Motor oil question

[Hawkmoon]

At one time, Castrol offered ONE type of full synthetic motor oil ("Syntec"), a synthetic/conventional blend, and conventional oil.

Castrol now offers at least two full-synthetic oils, "Edge" and "GTX Magnatec." The Magnatec is several dollars cheaper in the 5-quart size. What's the difference?

[Brad Johnson]

Maganatec has some type of polarized particle in suspension (my guess is some type of graphite) which supposedly adds lubricity.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4040737/Castrol_GTX_Magnatec_vs_EDGE

I wouldn't worry about it. Pretty much any name brand full synthetic will provide all the lubrication and protection needed to keep your hoopty happily motoring along. Presuming, of course, proper service and reasonable oil change intervals. Heck, even garden variety house-brand synth blends these days are light years ahead of what was considered a "premium" oil in the 70's and early 80's.

Brad

[Nick1911]

Meh.  Marketing wankery.

Personal opinion: All API rated engine oils are very good.  Change your oil on time, and your car will end up in the scrapyard due to corrosion or a teenager with a cellphone missing a red light LONG before engine wear kills it.

[bedlamite]

Nick 1911 is mostly right, but I would add that if you have a turbo, Full synthetic will hold up to the hotter temps better.

[Kingcreek]

When I was in an antique car club there was a real active retired senior project engineer. He worked for Cat, left and worked for Porsch on racing engine and aircraft engine development before returning to the US to retire from Cat. (He had a very nice car collection and shop!) He told me he assigned some R&D people to evaluate synthetic oils compared to Dino juice at some point.
He used nothing but full synthetic oil in everything since. There is a lot of individual brand and proprietary additive marketing that I’m not sure matters much but I considered him a reasonable authority on the whole synth vs conventional oil thing.
I buy only synthetic oil and I buy good filters, Napa Gold or Mann, and I run my oil longer but I change the filter  at the halfway point as well as at full dump. So typically 2 filters for every 5-6 quarts.
I’ve kind of lost track but I think I run and maintain about 15 different gas and diesel motors.

[Hawkmoon]

A very long time ago I used conventional oil and changed oil and filter at 2,000 miles. When I learned that new cars like BMW were coming with synthetic oil and recommending oil changes every 10,000 miles, I switched to synthetic and upped my change interval to 5,000 miles -- oil and filter. So the issue isn't whether to run conventional or synthetic. The issue is that Castrol (my brand of choice for many years) no longer offers just one line of synthetic oils. They now offer three (or maybe four, if we include the motorcycle oils). I have been using Edge, but now I see the GTX Magnatec, which sells for a few bucks less and is a full synthetic. I'm trying to decide if there's any reason why I shouldn't use the GTX Magnatec.

In other words -- what's the difference between the two?

[lupinus]

At one time, Castrol offered ONE type of full synthetic motor oil ("Syntec"), a synthetic/conventional blend, and conventional oil.

Castrol now offers at least two full-synthetic oils, "Edge" and "GTX Magnatec." The Magnatec is several dollars cheaper in the 5-gallon size. What's the difference?

Specifically? No clue. Generally? The additive package. Realistically/Practically? Probably not a whole hell of a lot.

IMO after looking at the info, assuming we're limiting the discussion to full synthetic and not blends? There may be something to some of the outliers on both the cheap and top ends but the average middle ground Mobile One, Castrol, Pennzoil, etc? They're all good enough that IMO it's largely splitting hairs, marketing, and preference. I buy good filters, preferably the extended life ones that hold up fine to a longer change intervals, and whichever of the major brands is on sale. I also change twice yearly, early/mid spring and early/mid fall, and don't really even track mileage any more. I know plenty of people who stretch it out to a year, which quite honestly is probably fine given modern synthetics and the additive packages. But 3m months 3k miles is nothing but a waste unless you're still using dino juice. Even then my understanding is the additives used today make that fairly unnecessary.

Only real notable change I make is around the 75ishK mark I start buying the high mileage variants.

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[Brad Johnson]

In other words -- what's the difference between the two?

About a buck a quart and a different color bottle. Other than that, not much. One is a full synth, the other is a conventional base with a synth additive package. (edit to add... bedlamite beat me to it below, posted while I was editing this)

With appropriate service intervals and no engine abuse, they will perform similarly.

Brad

[bedlamite]

After a little looking, Edge is a group 4 oil, Magnatec is a group 3, which means it's not really a fully synthetic oil, but it's refined to the point it should perform just as well. Either one is probably good depending on the vehicle.

[Hawkmoon]

After a little looking, Edge is a group 4 oil, Magnatec is a group 3, which means it's not really a fully synthetic oil, but it's refined to the point it should perform just as well. Either one is probably good depending on the vehicle.

Hmmm ... but Castrol markets GTX Magnatec as full synthetic. What's Mobil-1, Group 3 or Group 4?

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-gtx-magnatec.html

[Brad Johnson]

Hmmm ... but Castrol markets GTX Magnatec as full synthetic. What's Mobil-1, Group 3 or Group 4?

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-gtx-magnatec.html

Most premium synthetics are some blend of GIII/GIV/GV with ratios depending on intended market and price point targets. You don't see many true "full" GIV and GV formulations until you get into the super-premiums like AMSOIL and Red Line.

Many motorcyle and marine-use oils are full-fat versions, mostly for heat resistance and the need to endure the extreme shear forces of super-high RPMs.

Brad

[Jim147]

Ask john force.

[Nick1911]

In other words -- what's the difference between the two?

Very little, as stated. If you're hell bent on it, here you go; the product data sheets with relevant properties:  Edge  GTX Magnatec

Do you prefer " intelligent molecules" or "Fluid TITANIUM"? 

[lupinus]

Hmmm ... but Castrol markets GTX Magnatec as full synthetic. What's Mobil-1, Group 3 or Group 4?

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-gtx-magnatec.html

Group 3 oils are still considered synthetic as they use a mineral oil base that has been molecularly altered. That paired with synthetic additives is why it's a synthetic.

Most "full synthetic" are a blend of group 3 and group 4 oils. Mobil 1 last I looked was early on using G4s and pitched a fit that others were using G3s and marketing as fully synthetic. And then got it thrown back at them as they had either begun including G3s or some of their bases were technically G3s to start with, I disremember which.

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[Hawkmoon]

Mobil 1 last I looked was early on using G4s and pitched a fit that others were using G3s and marketing as fully synthetic. And then got it thrown back at them as they had either begun including G3s or some of their bases were technically G3s to start with, I disremember which.

That's what I remember, too, but that was at least twenty years ago. And it appears that Mobil-1 now also has at least two lines of "full synthetic" motor oil.

Anything to confuse the customer.

[Edit to add] Mobil now offers EIGHTEEN different, full synthetic oils. "To make it easier to choose." (Their words, not mine.)

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/motor-oils/synthetic-motor-oils

[K Frame]

Any oil from a major name that bears the API symbols required by your car, and is the correct weight designation, is going to do a fine job.

One thing I've always done, however, is once I pick an oil, I stick with that oil for the life of the car.

Valvoline, Castrol, Mobile, etc., doesn't matter. Just pick one and done.

[Kingcreek]

But which one is better for your cornbread pan?

[MechAg94]

But which one is better for your cornbread pan?

I have been using Slick 2000 EWL on my guns lately.  Works great.   

[Brad Johnson]

But which one is better for your cornbread pan?

Chevron with Techron.

Brad

[Hawkmoon]

One thing I've always done, however, is once I pick an oil, I stick with that oil for the life of the car.

I agree with this. To the point that I routinely carry an extra quart or two of Castrol in the utility box in each of my vehicles just in case I get down a quart before an oil change interval is near. (Although that hasn't happened in several hundred thousand miles of driving.)

But I started out with Castrol Syntec. When that became "Edge" I just went along, figuring that Castrol oil should be compatible with Castrol oil. Now, though, the GTX Magnatec is enough cheaper than the Edge that it's worth making a switch. Although I wish the Magnatec were available in a 5W40 weight. I can run 5W30 within the car maker's specs (2000 Jeep Cherokee), but I have historically preferred to have the extra cushion of running 5W40, especially during summer weather. Magnatec isn't available in 5W40.

[zahc]

I mix whatever oil with whatever oil. I've even been known to mix grades if the store doesn't have enough of the one. It doesn't really matter.

I know people who claim if you are a cheapskate you can buy a jug of 4 quarts of whatever cheap store brand oil and 1 quart of good synthetic oil and get most of the benefits of the additive package of the good oil.

I think there were lawsuits over this where car companies wouldn't honor warranties if people didn't use a certain oil, and the courts ruled that people might have to buy whatever brand of oil is available at a gas station if they are low on oil, and required the warranty to be honored as long as the oil is API certified and proper grade. Or something like that.

[bedlamite]

I agree with this. To the point that I routinely carry an extra quart or two of Castrol in the utility box in each of my vehicles just in case I get down a quart before an oil change interval is near. (Although that hasn't happened in several hundred thousand miles of driving.)

But I started out with Castrol Syntec. When that became "Edge" I just went along, figuring that Castrol oil should be compatible with Castrol oil. Now, though, the GTX Magnatec is enough cheaper than the Edge that it's worth making a switch. Although I wish the Magnatec were available in a 5W40 weight. I can run 5W30 within the car maker's specs (2000 Jeep Cherokee), but I have historically preferred to have the extra cushion of running 5W40, especially during summer weather. Magnatec isn't available in 5W40.

What is your oil pressure when it's warm? It should be 10 psi per 1000 rpm minimum. If that's good with 5w30, then 5w40 may be counterproductive, and actually adding more load on the engine, increasing wear and reducing fuel mileage.

[Jim147]

With full synthetic I don't think you will have the windage problems as with conventional oil.

[Cliffh]

Checking out the top 10 tips at the Mobil site, one of the first is to use synthetic oil.  Later on they recommend using a windage tray.  Judging from that I'd say windage would still sap some hp.

[Jim147]

We ran 0 weight in racing but it only had to do a burn out and run for another 9 seconds.

From building engines for years I'm not sure you could tell much difference on a dyno between the two weights. I might be wrong.

Multi viscosity oils have always made me wonder why f it wasn't marketing.