First time changing my oil since I was a kid

[Ben]

Something to double-check before changing... A lot of the new variable cam/valve timing setups are hydraulically actuated.  Straying too far outside the mfg recommended oil weight can have dramatic effects on performance/economy.  The Ford 5.4 truck engines were notoriously sensitive, especially in colder climes.

Brad

This was totally hammered into me on my new ride, which uses 0-20wt synthetic. Manual calls for 10K oil changes. I would err on the conservative side and do them at 7.5K or so, but Toyota Care covers oil changes and basic maintenance for the first two years and they'll only do it at 10K. I flip flop on blowing that off, but I just looked up oil change procedures the other day, and what a pain in the ass. Worse than my diesel truck. Requires removing two skid plates, and the non-cannister filter is in an out of the way place. I figure I'll wait till the warranty is over before I start doing them myself. :)

I use Mobil One on my Trooper and do the oil there every 5-6K. Likely overly conservative, but oil is cheap relative to engine repairs or engine life degradation. The Trooper is also laid out nice where it only takes me 15 minutes to do it.

[Boomhauer]

I go with Napa filters, which are made by Wix and are pretty good. $8ish for a filter for my truck

I also use K&N filters if I can't get to a NAPA. $13ish for a filter for my truck, but that big one inch nut sure beats monkeying around with an oil filter wrench (I use the nylon strap kind that goes on a ratchet, simple, works, not too much hassle)


I don't change my oil to save money, I change my oil because I know I do it right as opposed to a lube shop which has a high likelihood of screwing up a simple job. My drain plug isn't stripped and/or crossthreaded, and my filter mount is similarly not crossthreaded/stripped. Oh, and my oil and filter actually get changed. Lube shops tend to have a problem with accomplishing that. And I actually lube the chassis/steering while I'm down there.

[41magsnub]

My new Subaru uses 0w20 (I mean uses in both senses of the word - uses a little oil because it is so thin).  Currently it uses Subaru branded oil and filters since it is under warranty and they are doing free oil changes.  Not sure what I'll do after that.

I go a different direction my my land cruiser.  That rig has a cast iron straight 6 that has roots going back to a pre-WWII Ford tractor engine.  The guys getting the longest life out of those are running diesel grade oil in them.  In spring/summer I run 15w40 Rotella T6, fall/winter it runs 5w40 Rotella.  I bought a case of OEM filters last year that with my twice yearly oil change interval will last 15 years.

[Balog]

I go with Napa filters, which are made by Wix and are pretty good. $8ish for a filter for my truck

I also use K&N filters if I can't get to a NAPA. $13ish for a filter for my truck, but that big one inch nut sure beats monkeying around with an oil filter wrench (I use the nylon strap kind that goes on a ratchet, simple, works, not too much hassle)


I don't change my oil to save money, I change my oil because I know I do it right as opposed to a lube shop which has a high likelihood of screwing up a simple job. My drain plug isn't stripped and/or crossthreaded, and my filter mount is similarly not crossthreaded/stripped. Oh, and my oil and filter actually get changed. Lube shops tend to have a problem with accomplishing that. And I actually lube the chassis/steering while I'm down there.

I was never shown or taught how to do that. Could you expand on it a little?

[Boomhauer]

I was never shown or taught how to do that. Could you expand on it a little?

If you see zerks, pump some grease down in them. That simple. My vehicle has that style steering vs. rack and pinion, so I grease the ball joints, idler arms, etc every time I change the oil. Takes about 20 mins but worth it.

[Hawkmoon]

What are the prevailing opinions about filters? Worth it to pony up for a Mobil 1 level, or does a bargain basement Fram work as well? Somewhere in between?

Never EVER use a Fram filter on anything that's not headed directly to the junkyard.

Purolator is good (the standard, the Pure-One is even better, but probably not worth the difference in price), WIX is good ... and that's about it, IMHO. Mobil-1 filters are okay but over-priced.

[Balog]

If you see zerks, pump some grease down in them. That simple. My vehicle has that style steering vs. rack and pinion, so I grease the ball joints, idler arms, etc every time I change the oil. Takes about 20 mins but worth it.

Huh, simple enough. What kind of grease do you use?

[brimic]

Litium grease.

[Hutch]

Never EVER use a Fram filter on anything that's not headed directly to the junkyard.

Purolator is good (the standard, the Pure-One is even better, but probably not worth the difference in price), WIX is good ... and that's about it, IMHO. Mobil-1 filters are okay but over-priced.

Shame about Fram.  They used to be the bestest.  "Pay me now, or pay me later."  Remember that commercial?

[Boomhauer]

Huh, simple enough. What kind of grease do you use?

Standard cheap lithium grease

[Balog]

Cool, thanks folks. :)

[Fitz]

Huh, simple enough. What kind of grease do you use?

Bacon

[mtnbkr]

Something to double-check before changing... A lot of the new variable cam/valve timing setups are hydraulically actuated.  Straying too far outside the mfg recommended oil weight can have dramatic effects on performance/economy.  The Ford 5.4 truck engines were notoriously sensitive, especially in colder climes.

Brad

Both use 5w-20.  That was the point.  If I have two cars using the same oil, I can stock up.  As it stands, I have one using Mobil1 syn 5w-20 and other using Motorcraft semi-syn 5w-20.  Of course, I can always put the van on Motorcraft and not only standardize, but save money. :)

Damn 4Runner uses 10w-30 Mobil1 Syn.  So the best I'll be able to do is 2 oils.

Chris

[RoadKingLarry]

I'm going to attempt doing the oil on my boat here soon....   

Suck it up buttercup.


That'll be one of the things I get to do now. Not sure which Rube Goldberg device I'll acquire for the job.

[RoadKingLarry]

If you see zerks, pump some grease down in them. That simple. My vehicle has that style steering vs. rack and pinion, so I grease the ball joints, idler arms, etc every time I change the oil. Takes about 20 mins but worth it.

Wipe the crud off of them first.

[roo_ster]

Wipe the crud off of them first.

Friend of the family would take his truck to a garage to do his PM such as this.  They would also put the truck on a lift and pressure wash the bottom of the truck so as to get a better look at things, remove the road salt in the winter, and to clean off the grease points.

[Balog]

Wipe the crud off of them first.

Yep. Don't work on cars but I do maintain equipment for a living. 

[Tallpine]

Friend of the family would take his truck to a garage to do his PM such as this.  They would also put the truck on a lift and pressure wash the bottom of the truck so as to get a better look at things, remove the road salt in the winter, and to clean off the grease points.

I take our rigs into a small town shop, not a franchise lube joint.

I used to do everything but these days I try to avoid crawling around on the ground under vehicles.  It just doesn't cost that much more than buying the oil and filter and doing it myself, not counting the trip to town.

[MillCreek]

I take our rigs into a small town shop, not a franchise lube joint.

I used to do everything but these days I try to avoid crawling around on the ground under vehicles.  It just doesn't cost that much more than buying the oil and filter and doing it myself, not counting the trip to town.

I am with you, TP.  I have more money than I do time, so this is one of those things that I am happy to pay to have done, especially since I only change the oil in the cars once per year, what with the mileage that we put on.  I still do all my own preventative work on the motorcycle, though, since it is so much easier to access and do at the drop of a hat.

[lupinus]

I get mine done at the dealers quick lane. A, its under warranty and if something in there eats itself I don't want any bs about using the wrong oil/filter/frequency. B, I live in an apartment and really have no where to do it myself at the moment.

Plus I earn points that translate to cash, a couple years worth of points from just basic oil changes and tire rotations about covered the cost of an alignment recently. Plus every fifth change is free, and the cost is comparable to any of the local quick lubes using the synthetic blend option that's recommended for my car.

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[Tallpine]

I am with you, TP.  I have more money than I do time, so this is one of those things that I am happy to pay to have done, especially since I only change the oil in the cars once per year, what with the mileage that we put on.  I still do all my own preventative work on the motorcycle, though, since it is so much easier to access and do at the drop of a hat.

I trim our horses hooves 

[Ben]

I trim our horses hooves 

What, not even any Jiffy Trims where you live?  

[Tallpine]

What, not even any Jiffy Trims where you live?  

I want it done right 

[Monkeyleg]

Damn, these prices are a lot higher than when I was doing my own car work.

My Jag took 9 quarts of oil. That would be really pricey now. The filter was a proprietary design to the XKE, and had to be purchased through Jaguar specialist dealers for $$$.

I just had the oil changed on my '91 Saturn for the first time in 10 years. 

[Harold Tuttle]

Mobil 1 for everything and after 10K it's dark but still seems useful for more than burning tires.