Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Lennyjoe on May 21, 2022, 12:03:04 AM
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We found a 2014 F250 4x4 long bed XL with the 6.2L V8 today for $23,995 and am considering it to replace my 2003 Chevy 2500 HD with 104,000 miles. The Chevy is rusting pretty bad and the tow hitch has some rust pockets that are making me question it’s longevity.
The dealer is willing to give me $7,000 for my Chevy towards the F250. The F250 body is damn near spotless and the frame has no rust. Question is, the mileage. I’m highly mechanically capable and have fixed my own cars since high school.
BTW, we only use the truck for towing our 26’ tow RV during the summers and I drive the truck in the winter when I garage the Mercedes.
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Can't you bondo the rusty bodywork and weld up and reinforce the tow hitch and related structural members?
Should cost you a lot less than $15,000 or so that you lose trading to a higher mileage vehicle.
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That’s an alternative.
The body of the 2003 is in great shape still. The frame, however, is rusting pretty good. Where the tow hitch attaches to the frame is starting to flake off and replacing it may open up more issues with the frame at attachment.
Also, had a transmission fluid cooling line corroded and leaking. The line is no longer available so I had to cut the old part out and slave in rubber fuel hose as a temporary fix.
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I would buy it if it cost $10000 less. Perhaps I'm out of touch with truck prices.
I had a 2001 half ton Chevy that rusted and fell apart from the underneath. The body still looked pretty good with just a little rust, and the engine and transmission were still good as new. The frame rusted out, also the brake lines and the emergency brake cables. (and the shock absorbers, but that one doesn't much matter)
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Oh and I have about 10 of 16 exhaust manifold bolts left after the remaining 6 bolt heads broke off so far. Using a Dorman bracket to keep the manifold leaks down.
Also, when replacing the body bushings, the right front radiator bushing mount is pretty much rusted out so I had to Gerry rig the bushing in place. Still holding but won’t last forever.
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If you get a different truck, spray it.
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How much weight are you needing to tow?
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The 6.8 is a decent engine with plenty of power, but be warned... they are thirsty beasts. 150k isn't a concern if it's been properly mantained.
Brad
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How much weight are you needing to tow?
Rv is 4500 lbs dry. I’d estimate closer to 5500 with gear and some water for road stops (shitter use) on longer rides. Mountains of WV and Kentucky are where we go most of the time.
We’re considering moving up to a larger rv with slide outs so that will push us into the 6,000 lb range dry
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We have a '96 Tahoe with 222,000+ miles on it. It runs great and the only real "inconvenience" it has is a little slop in the steering. That is fixable. To replace the vehicle would cost way more than the fix or remedy the mileage at 16 MPG even at the current fuel prices. We bought it in 2011 with 139,000+ miles on it and it hasn't disappointed. Even though you would replace your Chevy with a Ford with over 100K miles on it, it is just barely broke in.
If we had an income over and above Social Security, we'd likely consider replacing our Tahoe with something smaller like a Mini Cooper because - eh - smaller.
Woody
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Rv is 4500 lbs dry. I’d estimate closer to 5500 with gear and some water for road stops (shitter use) on longer rides. Mountains of WV and Kentucky are where we go most of the time.
We’re considering moving up to a larger rv with slide outs so that will push us into the 6,000 lb range dry
Yea, I'd be sticking with a 3/4 ton.
I have feeling with the high inflation, downturn in the markets and potential recession if you can wait there might some deals to be had in 6-12 months.
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I ended up getting it. They gave me $9,000 for my 2003 Chevy which sealed the deal for me.
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Isn't the 6.8L a V10, not a V8?
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Isn't the 6.8L a V10, not a V8?
Yes.
Brad
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Hopefully they gave Lennyjoe the other two cylinders.
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I put 186k miles on an F250 with that engine. Main headache is exhaust manifold bolts but there are people who have figured out how to remove them when they break or the heads rust off.
And check the spark/coil packs in the aluminum heads. They can loosen and blow out taking the threads with them. Can be helicoiled in for a fix.
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I put 186k miles on an F250 with that engine. Main headache is exhaust manifold bolts but there are people who have figured out how to remove them when they break or the heads rust off.
And check the spark/coil packs in the aluminum heads. They can loosen and blow out taking the threads with them. Can be helicoiled in for a fix.
Had the same manifold bolt problem on my 2500. That’s the main reason why I got rid of it, along with all of the rust on the frame.
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Apologies, it has the 6.2L V-8 in it