Author Topic: Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW  (Read 3856 times)

SADShooter

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« on: August 11, 2005, 11:40:21 AM »
In the last four years I've moved from San Antonio to The Woodlands to Austin. And now....

My wife has accepted a job in Dallas (UT Southwestern). I'll be following as soon as I can find something. We're thinking about living in the mid-cities--Arlington, HEB, etc.--based on the notion that quality of life is better/pace is slower than Dallas proper. My wife has some relatives in Forney, so she'll have a place to crash while we're transitioning, and a nice support network.

Please share any practical (or personal) observations & advice about living in the DFW area such as housing, neighborhoods, commuting, job search resources/suggestions, and of cource firearms & shooting stuff.

This is a little intimidating for me, in part because it has transpired very quickly, and because DFW seems bigger than anything I'm used to. SA and Austin are decent-sized cities, and I lived on the outskirts of Houston, but...

Thanks in advance for any and all feedback.
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Azrael256

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2005, 12:21:35 PM »
DFW isn't really all that bad.  We do have a bit of a traffic problem on the major highways, but life in general is pretty good here.

Arlington, HEB, and those other areas aren't such a bad idea.  We lived up in Justin for awhile (find the racetrack on a map, and go North about three miles), and mom was able to commute down to Parkland, which is across the street from UTSW, in a relatively short time by taking 114.  I would recommend any of those areas with quick access to 114 and 183.  The HEB area is great for that.  It's a royal stinking mess when they Cowboys play at home as you get closer to Dallas, but that won't last much longer.  If you live in Arlington, you'll have to take I30 into Dallas, and it does get a little hairy with all the construction, and the jump off onto I35 is a rather exciting place.  I would live in Arlington if I commuted to Ft. Worth, but not to Dallas.  Coming South on 35 isn't bad, as you can avoid the downtown mess, but you won't find many decent neighborhoods until you cross North of 635.  

We live up in Richardson, and mom works at Baylor now.  She was at Parkland for quite some time, and at UTSW for a few months.  Her commute isn't really that bad.  The construction on the 75/635 interchange is a bit of a pain, but they're pretty good about keeping it flowing during rush hour.  Dallas has a MUCH better highway infrastructure than does Austin, so, depending on just where you're coming from, it may all be a total breeze to you.  It's only about 15 miles from our house to Parkland, and it can be accomplished in 30-45 minutes if you're careful.  Once that interchange is all cleaned up and finished, it should flow a good deal faster through there.  The neighborhood here seems to have stagnated a bit in the last 10 years or so, but it's still a decent place to live.  We don't have much serious crime, the surface streets are all broad and flow well, and we have relatively quick access to downtown since the rail line is just a few miles away.

I recommend visiting three areas: HEB, Richardson/Garland/Plano, and the Southlake to Trophy Club area along 114.  You'll be able to find good (sometimes brand new) housing in all three areas, decent (improving) road infrastructure, and basically everything about a city that you'll want without having to live in Dallas proper (you're right not to want to live in Dallas).

If I'm around when you visit, I'll be happy to show you around a little bit.  This will, of course, include a tour of the respective shooting ranges in the area, as well as the best pizza joint on this side of the Mississippi.

Best of luck to you!

SADShooter

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2005, 12:46:09 PM »
Good pizza? I feel better already. But that prompts another question. How is availability of decent Mexican/Tex-Mex food? Growing up in SA, I think I'm a little spoiled.
"Ah, is there any wine so sweet and intoxicating as the tears of a hippie?"-Tamara, View From the Porch

Azrael256

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« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2005, 02:08:58 PM »
It's kinda hit-or-miss around here, although certainly nothing as bad as Oklahoma.  We have all the usual chains.  Pancho's is good if you want medium-quality food and a whole lot of it.  There's a Mexican joint on every corner in these parts, but you have to visit several before you'll find one you like.  We lucked out and got a decent place within walking distance of the house.

roo_ster

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2005, 03:16:20 PM »
SADShooter:

My wife, our boy, our two dogs, and my self live in Richardson, along the northern border of Dallas.  

HOUSING
You will find that, in general, housing is really pricey south near Highland Park & University Park and gets cheaper as you go north to McKinney (with some exceptions in pockets).  I do not know how much you expect to spend on housing, but the general rule is you can get more sqft for your dollar in new construction the closer you get to Oklahoma.  I am not joking about hte "Oklahoma" bit.  It used to be, in 1999 when I moved to DFW, that McKinney was considered waaaay out there.  Well, now they are building out in Wylie & Melissa.  Live out there and work in Dallas & be prepared to spend a lot of time in your car.

We were definitely "starter home" buyers in early 2002.  We weighed the benefits of buying new construction in McKinney vs existing housing in Richardson (& a few other places) & decided on a fixer-upper in Richardson.  Our neighboorhood was installed in 1959 & still has a few of the original owners.  We like the neighborhood.  We have a really cool VOLUNTARY housing association.  Most people curse theirs, but ours rocks.  Also, you can buy from entry-level up to million-dollar 1 acre creekside houses, all withing 1/8 mile of our home.  Price per sqft has been going up ~10%/year since 2002.

So much of the new construction is zero lot-line, postage-stamp yards.  We have as much yard as the average $500K home currently being built.

I can give you more housing information that dates from 2002.  PM me over at THR.

TRAVEL
We are nearly equidistant from two N/S arteries: 75 & N Dallas Tollway.  We are also nearly equidistant from two E/W arteries: GHWB Tollway and I635.  The monstrous mess of construction at 75/I35 does not effect us, as we are so close it makes no matter.  In the morning, we are 15-20minutes from downtown Dallas and aout that far from Allen.  A similar amount of time will get you to the I635/I35E junction/Harry Hines.

Traffic can get pretty thick, especially if you are stuck going the way everybody else is.  I work north of Rchardson, so my commute is cake.

If your work is near a DART rail station, you can make your commute less a burden by using DART & getting some work done on the train.

SCHOOLS
Richardson, Plano, Highland Park are all considered tops for public education if that is an option you will make use of.  JJ Pearce HS (RISD) is one of hte top 500 HS in the USA.  Avoid Dallas ISD like a leper.  Same goes for several others.

There are lots of quality private schools to choose from.

DINING
There are a whole bunch of good restaurants.  I will not go so far as to say I am a Mexican food expert, merely an enthusiastic amateur.  I have had the pleasure of eating at some tasty Mexican restaurants from Dallas to Las Cruces, NM.  We have some very good Mexican restaurants and a lot of passable ones.  Of course, the best in all DFW is Joe T Garcia's in Ft Worth.  The best reasonably priced Italian restaurant in DFW is around the corner (Cafe Amore).  Good Vietnamese and Cantonese food, too.

SHOOTING
Several public ranges to choose from.  They all have their quirks. Also, there are a bunch of gun shops.  If you have not already, sign up at the yahoo group THR_DFW (you'll find a link in my THR sig).

CHURCH
We ended up going to "the big church downtown" as my boss calls it: First Baptist, Dallas.  It is 15 minutes from the house and we found that it is what we need.  There are, however, several good churches nearby.  

EMPLOYMENT
It is not as hot as it was during the dot-bomb years, but DFW's job market is larger than that of several states.  I don't know what you are looking for, so I don't know if I can help.

When you get up here to take a gander, drop us a line.  We can help you with some of the areas, but others would be better able to help with the mid-cities.

Good luck and welcome to Big D.
Regards,

roo_ster

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natedog

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2005, 04:30:43 PM »
Arlington's a nice city. Most of my family lives back there. Cooper Street is a mess though, traffic is as bad as LA. Mansfield is pretty good, too. Lots of suburbia.

Sylvilagus Aquaticus

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2005, 06:59:57 PM »
Ditto what jfruser wrote. I live a block down and a block over from him.

Get an area map, preferrably with zip codes, then get on www.realtor.com to see what's available in particular zip codes.
Don't expect to find a 'fixer-upper' (aka 'teardown') in Highland Park/University Park for less than 400k. Richardson, however, has 1500-2000 sq.ft. homes around where we live for 150-250k but beware of the neighborhoods changing demographically from south to north from 635....quickly.  3 miles south of here looks a lot like the third world in places.

For a similar amount of money as that  50 year old house in Richardson, you can buy new construction in Frisco, Murphy, Melissa, Sanger, Keller, Little Elm, McKinney, et al, but you can expect an Oklahoma zip code, almost...and make sure your vehicle has GOOD air conditioning, because you're going to spend some time in it. A working radio is also good, for traffic reports, not that you'll be moving fast from north to south or east to west during rush hour.  I know people who live in Athens and Canton and commute to Dallas daily.

What field are you working in? I'll be glad to direct you toward jobsites with more specific info.

As far as things to do, check out www.guidelive.com.

Regards,
Rabbit.
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Sylvilagus Aquaticus

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2005, 07:05:44 PM »
oops...I forgot all about the southern part of the county and Ellis county....

Red Oak is very flat, but growing. There is a fair amount of housing available there. Ovilla has had a moratorium on building for the past few years due to lack of water hookups, but that may be over now. Midlothian has possibilities.  Waxahatchie is booming.

For specific tax appraisal information and information on specific addresses, the Dallas Co. Appraisal District website is www.dallascad.org and links to all surrounding appraisal districts.  The appraised value information is 'fairly accurate', as they say.

Regards,
Rabbit.
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SADShooter

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« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2005, 05:23:31 AM »
Thanks, everybody. This is the context/background I was hoping for.

Rabbit, et al.,

Most of my experience is in government contract & grants administration, specifically social service oriented (low-income housing, child care, elder services, etc.). If you recognize acronyms like CDBG, ESG, CFR, FAR, you know what I mean. I dabbled in software training for a while, but I lucked into the job and my skills are stale. I'd love to make a change, into what I'm not sure, but my priority is to get my feet on the ground up there ASAP.

We'll be looking for a "starter" home in the 150-175k range. (Please don't use the term starter home around my wife, or expect laser-eye). Per the first home thread, we could "qualify" for more, but we're not fools.

Keep the good info coming.
"Ah, is there any wine so sweet and intoxicating as the tears of a hippie?"-Tamara, View From the Porch

Sylvilagus Aquaticus

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2005, 01:30:05 PM »
SS...

Most of the agencies involved with your .gov work are around downtown Dallas and you might do well to consider looking at homes in  Grand Prairie (good choices), Irving, Arlington, and the Mid-Cities.  You should be able to find some exemplary buys in your price range in those areas.

Regards,
Rabbit.
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Fly320s

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2005, 04:29:51 AM »
Azrael256:
Quote
Pancho's is good if you want medium-quality food and a whole lot of it.
Holy smokes!!  That's just about un-Texan to call Pancho's "All you can stomach" good. shocked

SadShooter, Big D has all the normal Tex-Mex chains.  My favorites are Uncle Julio's and Pappasito's.  But for the good stuf steer over to... aww, man, the CRS disease is kicking in.  I'm trying to think of a locally famous family restaurant near Ft Worth.  Drawing a blank right now.  I'll get back to you.

You said you wanted to avoid fast pace of Dallas.  Well, sorry but Arlington is right in the middle of it all.  To find a slow are you have to get out of the Metroplex.
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Sylvilagus Aquaticus

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Azrael256

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Tour of Texas continues....tell me about DFW
« Reply #12 on: August 13, 2005, 10:54:42 PM »
Quote
Don Pepe's
Hadn't heard of Don Pepe's.  I've been to J. Pepe's and Don Pablo's, but that's a new one for me.  Both of those are pretty good joints.  If you want real good Mexican food, find yourself a cute Mexicana who's momma likes you and can cook.  The wife may not go for that, so let's consider it Plan B.

Smoke

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« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2005, 03:49:10 AM »
Quote
the best in all DFW is Joe T Garcia's in Ft Worth
Absolutely.

Don Pablos is OK, EL Fenix is pretty good and an institution in Ft. Worth the Mexinacn Inn also.

In all honesty outside Joe T's, I've never been impressed with Metromess Mexican food....for good Tex-Mex, Waco is the destination.


Quote
Uncle Julio's and Pappasito's
I refuse to ever darken their doors again as long as I live.


Smoke - the Tex-Mex junkie

Sylvilagus Aquaticus

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« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2005, 03:38:07 PM »
Me either, Smoke.  I never thought  the Pappas Bros. did much right- even steak.  Pappadeaux, their 'Cajun' restaurant...pffft...Dodie's or Daddy Jack's down on Greenville is real Cajun.



Regards,
Rabbit.
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roo_ster

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« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2005, 05:52:13 AM »
(Sorry for the diversion into N Dallas restaurant debate, but..)

Yep, the Pappas restaurants are pricier than their food deserves.

As far as Cajun chow, I recommend Big Easy & Fishmonger's (owned by same folks) at Park & 75 (Plano, west side of highway) for cheap Cajun eats.  Fishmongers is more fish-oriented, Big Easy more sandwich-oriented.  Their blackened Po Boy is the standard.  Their muffeletta sandwich will leave you wimpering "No mas" after your belly bursts after 1/4 of it.

They are ~1/2 the price of that Pappadeax abomination.

SA: thanks for the Dodoe's tip.  I already know of Daddy Jack's.
Regards,

roo_ster

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TarpleyG

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« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2005, 09:11:30 AM »
Oh boy, food talk...

Quote
Their muffeletta sandwich will leave you wimpering "No mas" after your belly bursts after 1/4 of it.
Someone said muffaletta???  Jason's Deli used to have the best but I haven't been there in a while.  Best Tex-Mex in Dallas and surrounding area IMO is Chuy's on Knox St.  Make sure to order a Dot margarita too.  For pizza, Al's by Love field is really good but I haven't been there in a while either.

Greg

Smoke

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« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2005, 01:25:53 PM »
Quote
Best Tex-Mex in Dallas and surrounding area IMO is Chuy's on Knox St
DIdn't know there was a Chuy's up there....if it's anything like the opnes in Austin it's outstanding!

Smoke