Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: zxcvbob on April 19, 2017, 02:06:35 PM
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My Honda CR-V calls for 0W-20 motor oil. (the Honda dealer uses a synthetic blend; might be Motorcraft brand but not sure.) I think Toyotas also specify 0W-20. What about using 5W-20 at least in the summer? 0W-20 is hard to find.
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My 4Runner uses 0-20w. It's actually pretty easy to find around here, but if you're having trouble, you might check out Amazon.
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Don't.
Seriously. The cheapskates will be along directly to tell you that they ran something for 15 years on a combination of used fry oil and Dapper Dan they found in the trash but the folks that built that engine designed things like bearing gap and oil passages for a specific weight of oil and specific amount of lubrication. if it's got V-tec, or other electro-hydraulic trickery they factored that in to. Both Honda's and Toyotas have a reputation for durability that says you should believe their engineers.
Put the right stuff in it. It's not hard to find.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-96995-0W-20-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B000SKYL9I
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Don't.
Seriously. The cheapskates will be along directly to tell you that they ran something for 15 years on a combination of used fry oil and Dapper Dan they found in the trash but the folks that built that engine designed things like bearing gap and oil passages for a specific weight of oil and specific amount of lubrication. if it's got V-tec, or other electro-hydraulic trickery they factored that in to. Both Honda's and Toyotas have a reputation for durability that says you should believe their engineers.
Put the right stuff in it. It's not hard to find.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-96995-0W-20-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B000SKYL9I
Yeah, I'm not anywhere near as well versed with engines as Dogmush, but my understanding is that with the tight tolerances of modern engines, adhering to the lower end of the viscosity range is probably more important than the upper (though you should be using the recommended range).
Waiting to hear KD5's workaround. =D
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Waiting to hear KD5's workaround.
I'm at a loss. I didn't even know any manufacturers recommended WD-40 as an engine oil.
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5w20 *might* be OK in the summer, but there's no way I'd use it in the winter, and I'd still use 0w20 Mobil 1.
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I have a coupon from the local Kia dealer for a $23 oil change using synthetic blend oil. The Kia dealership is owned by the Honda dealer, so their computers should be linked. I'll check with them and see if they have 0W-20 oil, and if they don't I'll take it to Honda and pay about $40 to $50 for the oil change.
When the warranty runs out, I'll start changing the oil myself with 0W-20 even tho' I'm pretty sure 5W-20 is fine. (both are 20 weight oil) No point in taking a risk, I'll just have to plan ahead a little more to buy the oil.
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https://www.walmart.com/store/2812/search?query=0w-20+oil
In stock in Rochester MN.
Everybody has a Walmart.
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https://www.walmart.com/store/2812/search?query=0w-20+oil
In stock in Rochester MN.
Everybody has a Walmart.
Thanks. I searched for that shortly after starting this thread. They didn't have all that a year ago when I last looked for it (what happened to the :redface: smiley? (maybe it was racist))
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I have a coupon from the local Kia dealer for a $23 oil change using synthetic blend oil. The Kia dealership is owned by the Honda dealer, so their computers should be linked. I'll check with them and see if they have 0W-20 oil, and if they don't I'll take it to Honda and pay about $40 to $50 for the oil change.
When the warranty runs out, I'll start changing the oil myself with 0W-20 even tho' I'm pretty sure 5W-20 is fine. (both are 20 weight oil) No point in taking a risk, I'll just have to plan ahead a little more to buy the oil.
It's not the 20w, it's the 0w that is needed.
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You could put 710 in it.
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current gen subaru's are the same way, 0w20. Everybody has it except some convenience store in podunkville.
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I shall add to the echo. Use what's specified and call it a day.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It's not the 20w, it's the 0w that is needed.
The first number is the viscosity rating at 0 degrees, the second is the viscosity at 212 degrees. The first number only really matters when it's cold. During the summer a difference of 5 or 10 in the w rating is not that critical. The second number is what matters.
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:Sigh:
5W20 is fine for summer. xWy oils are "multi-viscosity" blends. A 0W20 is formulated to flow like a 0 weight oil when cold, but like a 20 weight oil at operating temperature. A 5W20 flows like a 5 weight when cold, and like a 20 weight at operating temperature. In other words, for 98 percent of the time the engine won't see any difference whatsoever.
The shift to lighter weights on the low end of the multi-vis spectrum is driven by two things: One, the manufacturers want the oil to flow a little better under VERY cold conditions. Second, and IMHO more important, they're getting hammered to improve fleet fuel mileage, and thinner oil lets the engine spin over just a tad better when cold.
Personally, I run 0W20 in the winter (December through February) if I can find it, otherwise I run 5W20 and never look back. For summer I might run 5W20, or I might run 10W30 or even 10W40. Getting oil to the bearings when it's 75 degrees overnight is MUCH less of a problem than thin oil for hours straight on the highway at high RPM.
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The first number is the viscosity rating at 0 degrees, the second is the viscosity at 212 degrees. The first number only really matters when it's cold.
So just leave the engine running all the time and you won't need to buy up cases of 3-in-1 to do an oil change.
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My Honda CR-V calls for 0W-20 motor oil. (the Honda dealer uses a synthetic blend; might be Motorcraft brand but not sure.) I think Toyotas also specify 0W-20. What about using 5W-20 at least in the summer? 0W-20 is hard to find.
Look in the owner's manual. Sometimes they will specify an alternate weight (usually for seasonal reasons). Other than that 0w-20 is reasonably common and shouldn't be hard to find.
Brad
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The first number is critically important because cold cranking is the hardest on an engine and the ability to quickly get adequate lubrication to the wearing parts before the engine is up to temp makes all the difference in the world in terms of engine life. You don't want to vary from the Mfg's recommended specs very much at all due to this.
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My Subaru uses 0w-20 full synthetic.
It can be a bit of a pain to find at times.
The owner's manual gives a couple of scenarios in which other weight/types of oil can be used, but says it should only be done for a limited time when the proper oil can't be located.
And once the proper weight oil is located, change the oil and the filter.
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I have a coupon from the local Kia dealer for a $23 oil change using synthetic blend oil. The Kia dealership is owned by the Honda dealer, so their computers should be linked. I'll check with them and see if they have 0W-20 oil, and if they don't I'll take it to Honda and pay about $40 to $50 for the oil change.
When the warranty runs out, I'll start changing the oil myself with 0W-20 even tho' I'm pretty sure 5W-20 is fine. (both are 20 weight oil) No point in taking a risk, I'll just have to plan ahead a little more to buy the oil.
Until recently I've always done my own oil changes. When I bought my Jeep the dealership gave me 4 years of free oil changes. Sadly, that will only be about 8 by the miles I put on it, I'm averaging less than 750 miles a month.
After the "free" runs out they'll charge $19.99 as long as I have their license plate frame on.
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After the "free" runs out they'll charge $19.99 as long as I have their license plate frame on.
Is the frame absolutely 100% compatible with your state laws? TX has been using the excuse of "obscured plate" to stop people with dealer plate frames if they even touch any of the lettering. Could be more expensive than the oil changes. (Or you could put heavy duty magnets on the frame and stick it on a block from the dealer each time.)
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FYI... Last time I checked, WalMart stocked 0w-20 in bulk (5 qt) containers.
Brad
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Is the frame absolutely 100% compatible with your state laws? TX has been using the excuse of "obscured plate" to stop people with dealer plate frames if they even touch any of the lettering. Could be more expensive than the oil changes. (Or you could put heavy duty magnets on the frame and stick it on a block from the dealer each time.)
Seems to me that were I stopped for a dealer plate frame and ticketed, I'd be stopping by the dealer with said ticket in hand, expecting them to cover it.
A friend of mine bought a used Acura a couple of years ago from a DC area dealership. They sold it to her with window tinting that was not legal in Virginia (too dark), and she was stopped and ticketed.
She went back to the dealership, and the dealership took care of both the ticket and untinting the offending windows.
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FYI... Last time I checked, WalMart stocked 0w-20 in bulk (5 qt) containers.
Brad
I just got an email from NAPA (they've apparently been spying on me since I ordered a tractor battery online a few months ago.) They have their private label 0W-20 synthetic oil for $3.49 per quart. That's cheaper than buying 4 or 5 quart jugs at Walmart.
ETA: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NO_75540
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After the "free" runs out they'll charge $19.99 as long as I have their license plate frame on.
That's an interesting idea. The first thing I do when I get a new car is put on a plain frame because I don't want to be an advertisement for the dealership, given that I never complete a purchase without feeling like I've been at least a little bit ripped off. :lol:
If they gave me a deal like that, I would likely leave it on.
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I just got an email from NAPA (they've apparently been spying on me since I ordered a tractor battery online a few months ago.) They have their private label 0W-20 synthetic oil for $3.49 per quart. That's cheaper than buying 4 or 5 quart jugs at Walmart.
ETA: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NO_75540
IIRC, NAPA has good filters too, made by Wix.
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Seems to me that were I stopped for a dealer plate frame and ticketed, I'd be stopping by the dealer with said ticket in hand, expecting them to cover it.
Been done repeatedly, with about a ~30% success rate from what I've heard.
If it goes to court, pretty much a zero success rate, as the judge will tell you that you're responsible for making sure a vehicle under your control is in compliance with the law.
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Been done repeatedly, with about a ~30% success rate from what I've heard.
If it goes to court, pretty much a zero success rate, as the judge will tell you that you're responsible for making sure a vehicle under your control is in compliance with the law.
I can see that, but I can also see the argument that the dealer is responsible for selling a car that complies with existing law and you might have a pretty good shot if you took them to small claims court.
Unless you purchased it As Is.