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Looking for a cheap, available source for glass pipe, approximately 1 inch in diameter and at least several feet long. Borosilicate glass would be ideal.
One thought on this (Which I know everyone is going to freak out at...) is to cut florescent tubes at each end, and use a solvent on the phosphor layer. It seems like a bad idea because of the mercury issue, although sources indicate that about 99% of the mercury is bonded with the phosphor layer. I'm also not sure what type of glass a florescent tube is, exactly.
A commercial source would be nice, but I haven't found anything that would cost a solid $100 for a 3-4 foot chunk.
Thoughts?
Edit: On a side note; finding "glass pipe" for sale on the internet tends to lead to online head shops.
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Try googling this phrase
"laboratory supply glass tube" (or tubing)
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Try googling "glass tube" instead of pipe.
http://www.us.schott.com/tubing/english/index.html
http://www.bd.com/accu-glass/
I see Mike beat me to it.
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So what kind of crack pipe are you building? I guessing its going to be a high end product with the use of Borosilicate glass.
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Try googling this phrase
"laboratory supply glass tube" (or tubing)
I will try that again. Everything I found in that market was either under 12 mm, or really, really expensive. (like $200 per 4 ft.)
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So what kind of crack pipe are you building? I guessing its going to be a high end product with the use of Borosilicate glass.
LOL. It's actually for some solar energy experiments. I'm working on a design for residential solar-powered HVAC. The pipe is needed for a prototype.
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Another possible option would be an industrial boiler supply company.
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Why glass? Why not copper or somesuch?
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Why glass? Why not copper or somesuch?
Black plastic water pipe?
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Why glass? Why not copper or somesuch?
There will be a copper, or more likely aluminum heat pipe inside the glass pipe. The space between them will be evacuated to serve as thermal insulation. The higher temperature requirements of my chiller necessitate the extra design complexity.
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I'm incredibly interested in how this turns out for you Nick. I'm planning for my own home purchase in a year or two (God willing) and it sounds as tho we have a lot of similar aspirations about DIY. Please keep us posted about Casa de Nick's progress.
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Try googling this phrase
"laboratory supply glass tube" (or tubing)
....just don't do it in Texas without the proper license....
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LOL. It's actually for some solar energy experiments. I'm working on a design for residential solar-powered HVAC.
Whoa. This dude is TOTALLY baked!
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Nick (aka Dr. Horrible),
Ya know that Captain Hammer reads APS.........
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yea, you're going to want a bit thicker wall than what a flourescent light tube is going to provide. Do you HAVE to make it vacuum tubes? I'm thinking if you could lose the vacuum part you might get away with the plastic scatter shields they make for the flourescent tubes, just a thought.
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I don't know if it would suit your temperature requirements but, you might take a look at the glass tubing used for dairy milking operations.
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Oops, missed the higher temps necessity thing.
Look here:
http://www.viessmann-us.com/en/products/Solar-Systeme/Vitosol_300.html
The 20 tube array was quoted to me at $8000 HOWEVER you can buy the tubes individually, they are self contained. Don't know for how much though. Probably not too much more than buying the parts and fabricating them yourself.
Are you using ammonia in your chiller?
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You can do a search here, or google "Duran Tubing":
http://www.photonics.com/photonicsFind.aspx?searchString=glass%20tubing&searchIndex=34
A few places to start are:
http://www.spectraglass.com/products/tubular_glass_duran_single.aspx?Page=2
http://www.glassdynamicsllc.com/Tubes%20Cylinders.htm
http://swiftglass.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category§ionid=4&id=29&Itemid=39
Don't know what the price is (you did say cheap) . . . but there, you're on your own.
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I wouldn't use fluorescent tube glass for this, it always seemed way too fragile. Go with laboratory grade stuff, or just use insulation since it is a prototype. Personally I think fiberglass insulation with a heat shrink plastic cover would work, and be ALOT cheaper. Laboratory glassware is not cheap.
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys; now I have some sources I can start pricing.
Are you using ammonia in your chiller?
Yes, and it's making component and seal material choices difficult! Apparently ammonia + water gets past the oxide layer and eats aluminum parts.
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You've just rediscovered one of the reasons why ammonia isn't used in that much in refrigeration equipment anymore.
That and the overt toxcicity.
I'd suggest a small fan in your basement laboratory.
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He's really building frickin' lasers to take over the frickin' world.
Want some help?
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If he asks for a source for lab grade sharks we'll know we're in trouble.
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That's why they use cold rolled steel and stainless steel in them. They use uh, zinc chromate in the water solution to inhibit the steel being corroded by the water. Aluminum will not work. Nor will copper, brass etc.
One thing about ammonia, there's never any doubt as to whether there's a leak or not.
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Oh well, he can always try sulphur dixoide...
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You might want to check with dairy suppliers. Much of the piping these days is stainless steel but I'd wager a big chunk of (your) money that glass is still used for some applications in the dairy industry. Years ago, *lots* of the piping was glass - good stuff, too.
I believe that it tends to run in the 1.25 to 1.5 inch inside diameter.
jb
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Last time I was at a modern dairy operation, about 12-15 years ago, there was still TONS of glass tubing in use.
Lots of glass tubes on the big storage tanks to show tank levels.
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys; now I have some sources I can start pricing.
Are you using ammonia in your chiller?
Yes, and it's making component and seal material choices difficult! Apparently ammonia + water gets past the oxide layer and eats aluminum parts.
I can believe it. I've used ammonia to etch copper circuit boards in a pinch. It isn't ideal, but it does manage to dissolve away the copper. It's actually pretty cool to watch.
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys; now I have some sources I can start pricing.
Are you using ammonia in your chiller?
Yes, and it's making component and seal material choices difficult! Apparently ammonia + water gets past the oxide layer and eats aluminum parts.
I can believe it. I've used ammonia to etch copper circuit boards in a pinch. It isn't ideal, but it does manage to dissolve away the copper. It's actually pretty cool to watch.
I always used Hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide mixed as an expedient etchant. It actually works very well, and both ingredients are cheap and available.
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I used to like throwing pennies in the nitric acid tank to watch them fizzle like alka seltzer and make orange smoke.
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I used to like throwing pennies in the nitric acid tank to watch them fizzle like alka seltzer and make orange smoke.
Green smoke is prettier, like that produce by dumping bleach into a mild acid solution. Just don't breath it. <Big Evil Grin>
If you're still looking for suppliers, I can vouch for Allen Scientific Glass ( http://www.allenglass.com/ ) for quality. Used to use them for flasks and transfer vessels back when I worked in Biotech since they are local (Boulder, CO).
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys; now I have some sources I can start pricing.
Are you using ammonia in your chiller?
Yes, and it's making component and seal material choices difficult! Apparently ammonia + water gets past the oxide layer and eats aluminum parts.
I can believe it. I've used ammonia to etch copper circuit boards in a pinch. It isn't ideal, but it does manage to dissolve away the copper. It's actually pretty cool to watch.
I always used Hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide mixed as an expedient etchant. It actually works very well, and both ingredients are cheap and available.
That's what I use when I have the choice. In fact, I just finished etching a pair of boards that way, not 15 minutes ago. They're sitting in my sink right now, soaking in acetone.
But there was one occasion where we needed a board for a group project, and we had to get it one that night. We managed to scrounge up some industrial strength ammonia cleaner from a janitor's closet. The stuff stank like all hell, but it got the job done.
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That's why they use cold rolled steel and stainless steel in them. They use uh, zinc chromate in the water solution to inhibit the steel being corroded by the water. Aluminum will not work. Nor will copper, brass etc.
One thing about ammonia, there's never any doubt as to whether there's a leak or not. Tell me about it. Had a major ammonia leak at work one or two years ago. Had to evacuate the building and call in the fire department to sanitize the place .
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My Father had a blue print machine that used 28% aqueous ammonia as the developer.
Changing the bottles, if you spilled some?
Holy crap!