Post by: Regolith on August 29, 2008, 05:35:23 AM
My father has an old Bear recurve bow that he used to hunt with back in the 60s and 70s, and I'm thinking about asking him if I can have it to start off. He hasn't used it for nearly three decades, and I don't think he ever intends to use it again, so I don't think he'd have a problem with me taking it (haven't asked him yet).
Thing is, last time I drew it, I couldn't get it to my ear. I think the draw length may be too short for me (its draw weight is 55 or 60 lbs, and that shouldn't be a problem for me). I'm an inch or two taller than my father was when he used it last, so I'm thinking that may be the problem. Would a longer bow string work? Are you even supposed to draw it to your ear? I think the bow string may need replacing anyway; it looks fairly frayed.
Any ideas on accessories, etc I should get? I'm thinking I'm going to need to get some arrows; IIRC, my father doesn't have many left, and those that are may not be very straight (courtesy two inquisitive boys who used to make their own severely underpowered bows using a random branch and some string...). Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance for the tips.
Post by: Mabs2 on August 29, 2008, 05:58:56 AM
Great bows.
Also, for shooting a recurve, you'd need a glove to protect your fingers, and an arm guard on the other arm to prevent the string from banging it up. Though some people don't need the latter.
Cabela's has some nice traditional stuff and newer age stuff.
Post by: Scout26 on August 29, 2008, 06:15:16 AM
Post by: French G. on August 29, 2008, 06:28:35 AM
Post by: tokugawa on August 29, 2008, 06:45:16 AM
Post by: Regolith on August 29, 2008, 06:58:48 AM
50-60 lbs is very heavy for target shooting. Suggest a lighter 30 lb range.
The bow IS eventually going to be used for hunting, and it's cheap as free.
Post by: yesitsloaded on August 29, 2008, 07:33:15 AM
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Also, for shooting a recurve, you'd need a glove to protect your fingers, and an arm guard on the other arm to prevent the string from banging it up.
Wuss. 
I have a 35# Ben Pearson recurve for playing Robin Hood and a High Country for killing things. My uncle runs a bow store so I'm going to tell you the straight truth. You usually get what you pay for and a good new bow costs 500+ if it is really going to fit you and work best. Have it restrung, buy some string wax, and have arrows made to fit the bow and your draw.
Post by: brimic on August 29, 2008, 08:20:44 AM
As far as drawing the bow, you use muscles for this that you normally don't use strenuously in day to day life. You use less of your arms for drawing and more of your lats- when drawing the bow you should concentrate on pulling your shoulder blades together. Pulling the bow back is going to be difficult at first, but it will get much easier the more you practice it. My first 'hunting' bow was a 45lb compound bow I received for my birthday at age 13. I spent the entire winter and summer practicing drawing it and it actually took about 2 months before I was strong enough to pull it past the breaking point. I've shot bows with 100lb draw weights that weren't difficult to draw, my current hunting/3d target bow has a 72lb draw with a 80%letoff. If you are going to use it for hunting, make sure that you can easily and smoothly draw it while sitting or kneeling- its much harder than drawing it standing. To tell you the truth, and I don't want to discourage you, but a compound bow is much better for hunting do to the letoff, and longer effective range (though that range is only 5-10 yards beyond a recurve's range if hunting from a treestand). 20 years ago, deer were very easy to hunt from a treestand, but deer seem to have been conditioned to look up in trees for predators which partially negates the some of the origial advantages of using a treestand. Having a bow at full draw and being able to hold it motionlessly for a minute or two is a huge advantage.
As far as usuing a different length string- I'm not sure which way it will change the draw weight. On a compound bow, a longer string will actually increase the draw weight. If you get a longer string, don't go more than a few inches- it will shorten your brace height (length between the nock point and the grip) which will make it harder to shoot accurately and the string may interfere with the limbs.
Have a bow shop set you up with arrows with the correct length and very importantly, the correct spine. An arrow that is too stiff or not stiff enough will not shoot right. Shortening an arrow blank changes its spine as well. Make sure that you get arrows that are heavy enough for your bow- carbons will shoot nice and flat, but don't absorb enough energy from the bow, damaging the limbs. A heavy aluminum arrow or if you want something more traditional, cedar arrows are good. Youwant around 10grains of arrow for every lb of draw weight or better on a traditional bow.
Post by: Regolith on August 29, 2008, 09:50:30 AM
The thing is, I kind of feel like if I'm going to be hunting with a bow, I might as well be doing it old school, with more or less traditional gear. Then, of course, there's the cheap as free thing.
As for draw weight...like I said, it isn't an issue with me. I used to do some pretty hefty weight lifting when I played football in HS, and while I haven't done much recently, I haven't lost that much muscle mass.
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The draw weight on these depends on your draw length. I probably have the same recurve that you do (Bear Grayling) and mine is 50lbs at 28" draw. Its a fine bow, and easy to shoot, and like you, I got it from my Father. The draw weight will change 3-4lbs per inch that you are longer or shorter in draw length (mine is 30"). The draw lenght can be determined two ways: Draw the bow back and measure from the nock to the front of the bow (you'll need a helper), or have your helper measure your wingspan from finger tip to fingertip and divide that figure by 2.5.
That sounds logical. I think I need to add two to three inches....so that'd be what, 8-12lbs change, worst case? Guestimating, I'd say that'd probably put it around 29-30" (given that your wingspan is typically fairly close to your height, with my height being around 73-74 inches). That sounds a bit right, if it came with a 28" draw from the factory, and I'm guessing my dad didn't change it (probably didn't need to).
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As far as usuing a different length string- I'm not sure which way it will change the draw weight. On a compound bow, a longer string will actually increase the draw weight. If you get a longer string, don't go more than a few inches- it will shorten your brace height (length between the nock point and the grip) which will make it harder to shoot accurately and the string may interfere with the limbs.
My gut says that shortening the string would increase draw weight....simply due to the fact that it would put more pressure on the limbs, and like a coil spring, the tighter it gets the more difficult it gets to wind/draw.
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Have a bow shop set you up with arrows with the correct length and very importantly, the correct spine. An arrow that is too stiff or not stiff enough will not shoot right. Shortening an arrow blank changes its spine as well. Make sure that you get arrows that are heavy enough for your bow- carbons will shoot nice and flat, but don't absorb enough energy from the bow, damaging the limbs. A heavy aluminum arrow or if you want something more traditional, cedar arrows are good. You want around 10grains of arrow for every lb of draw weight or better on a traditional bow.
Sounds like a plan. There's a dedicated archery store not more than a half mile from here, so I think I'll go have a chat with them after I pick up the bow (which should be in a week or two).
Any recommendations on arrow brands? I'd be looking for something that's fairly inexpensive but still good quality. I went to a sporting goods place today and looked at a couple of different arrows, some of them getting in the $90/12 range, and that's simply too rich for my blood (there's a reason I'm going cheap as free; I'm a po' college student
). Post by: 280plus on August 29, 2008, 09:52:56 AM
Don't shoot any cats.
Post by: Regolith on August 29, 2008, 09:58:05 AM
Actually, that thread is what made me think about this and decide to post....
Not that I'm planning on shooting any cats.
Post by: brimic on August 29, 2008, 10:51:28 AM
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I went to a sporting goods place today and looked at a couple of different arrows, some of them getting in the $90/12 range, and that's simply too rich for my blood
You can get by with 1/2 dozen arrows.
I mainly shoot carbon arrows, which can run well over $10/arrow. For the recurve, the last arrows I bought may have been 8 years ago, and were Easton XX75s which are pretty much the standard for aluminum arrows and cost around $5-6 a piece.
Post by: RoadKingLarry on August 29, 2008, 11:47:43 AM
50-60 lbs is very heavy for target shooting. Suggest a lighter 30 lb range.
The bow IS eventually going to be used for hunting, and it's cheap as free.
A a properly set up modern 40# recurve with appropriate arrows and broadheads will shoot clean through any deer or elk that ever walked the lower 48.
If you are seriously interested start with a lower poundage bow. and look at this website for more info http://www.tradgang.com/.
A lower poundage bow will allow you to learn the fundamentals with far lesser risk of injury and will also allow you to learn faster with far less frustration.
I've been shooting traditional tackle for over 15 years, recurve, long bow and all wood selfbows that I make myself. If I can't answer a question I can sure point you to the right answer.
Post by: brimic on August 29, 2008, 06:39:48 PM
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A lower poundage bow will allow you to learn the fundamentals with far lesser risk of injury
Amen to that. At one point in time when I was heavy into traditional archery, I ended up tearing connective tissue between my ribs on my left side. I didn't know that I had injured myself at first, but started getting sharp stabbing pains in the left side of my chest that made it hard to breathe and made me think I was having a heart attack. The doctor attributed it to my archery hobby.
Its not just stick bows either- a compound bow that is too much with too much letoff for the shooter can really tear things up if they wer eto let the string down and weren't strong enough to resist the string's impulse.
Post by: Regolith on August 30, 2008, 03:03:32 AM
Perhaps in a couple of months I could save up enough for a starter bow, if my dad's proves to be too much for me.
But for now, as the old saying goes, beggars can't be choosers.
Besides, like I said, I'm not too concerned about it being too heavy for me. By 14, I was able to draw my friend's 75lb hunting compound bow, with my weak arm (the bow was built for a lefty). I'm not exactly a body builder, but I am a bit stronger than your average Joe. And with the longer string, it looks like the draw weight is going to be a sight bit lower, anyway.
Post by: 280plus on August 30, 2008, 07:51:49 AM
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I didn't know that I had injured myself at first, but started getting sharp stabbing pains in the left side of my chest that made it hard to breathe and made me think I was having a heart attack. The doctor attributed it to my archery hobby.
Was this before or after he pulled the arrow out of your side?
Post by: Tallpine on August 30, 2008, 08:35:31 AM
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While I grant a lower powered bow would probably be better for a beginner, I don't have the money for it at this time.
Willow stick and kite string
Post by: Regolith on August 30, 2008, 08:43:13 AM
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While I grant a lower powered bow would probably be better for a beginner, I don't have the money for it at this time.
Willow stick and kite string
As I mentioned earlier, that's how my dad "lost" most of his arrows.
Post by: oldfart on August 31, 2008, 10:01:47 AM
Bow-hunting can be a real challenge for the hunter who is used to shooting game at 200-300 yards. With a bow, a long shot translates into something like 40 yards and you probably shouldn't do that very often.
Modern compound bows have a lot of advantages but like when comparing the M-16 to the Mauser, there are a few glaring drawbacks (pun intended.) The compound bow has a lot of parts which means there are a lot of parts to break, misalign or otherwise screw up your day. The old recurved bow is pretty much bomb-proof, needing only an extra string for emergencies.
Custom-made arrows are great but expensive. Fiberglass arrows are quieter than aluminum and usually cheaper too. Making your own wooden arrows is a real PITA but kinda fun too. Bringing home game with a homemade arrow is a real thrill but losing or breaking them can be heartbreaking.
Unless you're shooting at targets, don't bother with fancy optical sights. Instead go with something simple and sturdy enough that it won't get knocked off when moving through brush. BTW, that brush will always get into one of the pulleys of a compound bow and cause a glitch... bet on it!
A decent bow is a whole lot lighter than a rifle and you don't have to stink up the house with solvent after a day of practice. Your wife will appreciate that!
Post by: Bob F. on August 31, 2008, 12:51:21 PM
Don't let a shop talk you into plactic fletching (vanes); "the new plastic ones are better than feathers". Maybe now, not 6-7 yrs ago, and I still doubt it seriously! Traditional bows are shot "off the shelf", not off a mechanical rest. Trad bows are best shot instinctively, no sights. A trad shooter will generally get his shot off before a "Steel & wheels" shooter will decide which pin to use.
When I was shooting alot, a "wheelie guy" buddy came over to pratice. Out to 30yds or so I was shooting as well as he was with sights. "How do you do that?" "Just shoot, let your brain do the work, don't interfer by thinking."
One of the reasons i went back to a trad bow was to try ariel targets. Never was good, though.
Ever get a chance to see Rev Stacy Groscup on video (he was in his 80's last time I saw him, 15+ yrs ago) watch and listen, He was AWESOME!
Have fun, practice.
Oh, yeah, do push-ups to get to drawing that little ole #55!
Bob
Post by: Bob F. on August 31, 2008, 01:00:44 PM
Bob
Post by: Stevie-Ray on August 31, 2008, 02:21:39 PM
At any rate, I got good enough with mine that I was grouping better with the bow than with my favorite .45 auto. 
I shot 2 bullseyes after my first shot one day, the second penetrating the first. My "trophy," which basically cost me 2 XX75s, now graces the wall above me as I type this. Interest fell off rather quickly for some reason, but I think now and then of pulling everything back out and starting again. My biggest problem is finding a range.My bow is a Hoyt Pro-Vantage, 55-70#, and I always used a rope-release.
Post by: thebaldguy on September 01, 2008, 05:47:12 PM
Post by: zahc on September 01, 2008, 09:43:34 PM
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A lower poundage bow will allow you to learn the fundamentals with far lesser risk of injury
as I sit here, my right shoulder burns with a nagging and irritating pain. I haven't drawn a bow in at least 2 years. Be careful. These are strange and normally unused body parts you are going to call on.
Post by: Regolith on September 02, 2008, 05:48:54 AM
The string on the other hand bothers me. It has "unwound" in a couple of places, so that you can separate the individual strands that make up the string, and it's pretty old. I'm definitely going to replace it, though I'm not quite sure what with yet.
zahc: don't worry, I'll be careful. I imagine the principles are the same as weight lifting, in terms of avoiding injury, and I was always careful to prevent injury when doing that.
I'll be picking up the bow in a week or so, when I go to visit my parents. I'll post some pics then. There aren't any archery shops within 50-70 miles of where my parents live, so I don't know when I'll be able to start practicing with it, but we may make a trip to Cabela's in Reno while I'm down there (it's about a four hour drive from my parent's place). I think I'll go to the archery shop here in town before I go and see what they have, so I have some basis of comparison.
Thanks for all the tips. If you got more, keep 'em coming.
Post by: MechAg94 on September 02, 2008, 07:05:31 AM