Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: 280plus on May 10, 2009, 09:10:45 AM
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Anybody know how to get them friggers apart? I have the little tool(s) but I press them in there and the tubes still do not come free. The tool package says. "EASILY" takes apart blah blah... EASILY is the FIRST WORD! ;/
:laugh:
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after spraying lubricant into the fitting, fully insert the tool then twist and pull the lines apart. if they are really old or corroded it may take two people, one to hold the tool in, and one to pull the lines apart.
good luck!
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Or
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...or...
Go to napa, get the proper sized rubber high pressure fuel line, the correct number of high pressure fuel line clamps, and a tubing cutter.
I used 2 hours, PB Blaster, the "TOOL", a box wrench to distribute the load around the tool and a BFHammer, and some type of lever operation to pull the works apart. I cut off the collar and fittings then rebuilt the system for less than 12 dollars worth of hose and clamps and never looked back
(Held for 8 years and 150,000 miles on a '98 f150 fuel filter)
Did the same on the rover - both systems run less than 50 psi with a new pump (more like 28-32 iirc) No leaks, no rolling fireball.
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I don't get it. I got a ball point pen, took out the ink tube, split the main tube with an exacto knife, put it around the fuel line, pushed it into the fitting, and it came off ('02 F150).
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Or
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...or...
Go to napa, get the proper sized rubber high pressure fuel line, the correct number of high pressure fuel line clamps, and a tubing cutter.
I used 2 hours, PB Blaster, the "TOOL", a box wrench to distribute the load around the tool and a BFHammer, and some type of lever operation to pull the works apart. I cut off the collar and fittings then rebuilt the system for less than 12 dollars worth of hose and clamps and never looked back
(Held for 8 years and 150,000 miles on a '98 f150 fuel filter)
Did the same on the rover - both systems run less than 50 psi with a new pump (more like 28-32 iirc) No leaks, no rolling fireball.
Not a bad idea at all! =D
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I don't get it. I got a ball point pen, took out the ink tube, split the main tube with an exacto knife, put it around the fuel line, pushed it into the fitting, and it came off ('02 F150).
Apparently mine are stuck as the tools do not fully insert. I'll try option 1, soaking with lube for a short while longer then probably hit option 2 replace with tube. Considering I have the tube and clamps here already leftover from the patch job I did a few months back. Thanks all! I'll report back later on my results. =)
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:laugh:
You forgot the BFH!
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I never figured out what Ford was thinking with those. GM just used a flare nut.
Make sure you're using the right sized tool. There are about ten sizes, and if it won't go in, it's usually the wrong size.
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If its anything like my truck (muddy doesn't quite describe it) you have to work the tool back and forth while pushing it in to get all the mud out of there.
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I never figured out what Ford was thinking with those. GM just used a flare nut.
Ford has a better idea! Dammit! :laugh:
getting ready to go out and honk on it again. Crud may very well be the issue.
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Ford was thinking "hey these new fitting mean that the assembly line guy only needs a half-second to plug the line into the fitting, rather than 5 seconds to tighten a nut of clamp".
Ford assembly line guy: *snick* next car please.
I fought the the Tbird's QC's on several occasions, but that car had endemic lubricant leaks at various times and a spritz of NC brake cleaner to get the gunk out was usually all it needed for the tool to work.
(tangent: endemic leaks means no chassis rust; but it also means the rubber rots out of the airplane line clamps Ford used to hold the tranny cooler lines to the chassis. It's real fun when you rub a hole in one of those.)
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Well I lubed them up and they doo seem to have freed up a bit but still no release. Atleast I can look down in there now so I know what I'm up against. Try again tomorry.
thanks all !
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Chilton's says you have to release the pressure by loosening/removing any part of the system, e.g. injector. When you go to that part, it says you must relieve the line pressure first!?!?!?
I think bedlamite has it right!
Mines still stuck after Aerokroil, "da tool", much foul language, pounding, twisting, etc. Hard to get the BFH in there. 103,000 miles on the same filter, and LOTS of road salt!!
Stay safe, get the torch!
Bob
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I never figured out what Ford was thinking with those. GM just used a flare nut.
Make sure you're using the right sized tool. There are about ten sizes, and if it won't go in, it's usually the wrong size.
Don't be thinking GM is "all that", they went to a similar quick connect style in the early 90's but even cheaper than Ford in that the lines are cad-plated steel where Ford usually uses stainless. This means that the lines will actually rust between the guard and the sealing o-ring, seizing the connection to the point you have to destroy it to get it apart (Caprice/Impala types say to just go ahead and buy a new fuel module and plastic lines because you're going to need them) . As noted above, the Ford units are usually just filled with debris in the locking spring area if they don't come right apart.
Something else, those not familiar with the quick connects tend to want to insert the tool and then try to use the tool to separate the lines. This is impossible as it doesn't work that way, the tool is running into a lip that captures the locking spring against the outer sleeve. The correct way is to insert the tool into the open end of the quick-connect until it seats, and then pull the other side of the connection away from the tool. You might have to do a bit of twisting to break the o-rings free.
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Yes, from looking down inside there I could tell that the tool releases the spring clips and the tube must slide out while the tool remains in place to hold the pins back. I assume the tool slides out with te tube as it comes apart.
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I never figured out what Ford was thinking with those. GM just used a flare nut.
Not so.
My 2001 Chevy S-10 has those very same fuel line connections.
I found out when I had to change the fuel composition sensor.
Luckily, my auto hobby shop on base had the right tool to press the fittings in to remove the fuel lines.
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I rebuilt that mustang motor at the base auto shop in San Diego. Spent a lot of time there for a while. An Engineman friend of mine took me through it. After we finished torquing down the manifold we discovered the lifters still soaking in the can of oil on the bench. =|
IIRC he dropped the first pushrod into it's hole and it disappeared. THEN we discovered the lifters still on the bench.
:laugh:
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huh, my Sonoma may have the QDs as well... but I've never had to go looking for them. Darn thing's reliable to a fault... checking the oil is fruitless, it's always full... I rely on sight and smell now.