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Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 09, 2009, 06:04:17 PM

Title: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 09, 2009, 06:04:17 PM
98 honda crv

got codes  manufacturer control ignition system or misfire
a variety of cylinder miss codes and manufacturer control auxillary emission controls

what means this?  ignition problem?  distributor is fairly new. some pollution control issue? pvc valve? o2 sensor?  all guesses appreciated  some more than others
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: alex_trebek on June 09, 2009, 08:51:38 PM
How old is the dist?  Replaced with rebuilt OEM? New OEM? when was it replaced?

forgot to ask:

If you know, what engine does the crv have (if you know)?

My understanding is that it is the D16Y8, or at least the D16 series.
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 09, 2009, 09:50:42 PM
i'll check motor but the distributor was an aftermarket i assume since it was less than 400 bucks
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: Tuco on June 09, 2009, 10:06:18 PM
400 bucks?  Nice.

Is it running well?  Are there any symptoms with the codes?

If it's missing or sputtering, change the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. 
Otherwise run two tanks of Shell ultimate and reset the codes.
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 09, 2009, 10:11:24 PM
its missing  check engine light is on  and less 400 was parts only
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: alex_trebek on June 09, 2009, 10:13:54 PM
The reason i asked is i had a '92 civic that had a distributor go out at about 170,000.  I had replaced with a rebuilt used one, because i was a poor college student.  The check engine light came on after the replacement, i never had it scanned since it didn't have OBDII port. But the engine would idle roughly at random intervals, and then the light would come on.  It would reset after each start up, some days it would come on and other days it wouldn't.  The guy i sold the car to said the dist was bad, but he didnt elaborate. 

I took that dist apart, before i had it repaired, and looked at the chip on the bottom, I did this on the advice of a honda guru i worked with.  I can only assume that was the ignition control module, it had alot of corrosion all over the exposed wiring, and generally looked like it failed/was going to fail.

My "new" civic is a 97, the hanes manual covers the 97 civic integra and CRV.  Based on that alone, i assumed there was a significant similarity between the CRV and the civic for that model. 

So this, combined with honda's quest for perfect timing, variable timing, high voltage to spark plugs (to increase gas mileage), i assume that these control modules see a lot of stress.  Honda's are known for their dist problems, at least on the civic it was a simple three bolt removal (after the cap was removed of course) and often replacing that chip was the only part necessary.  Most people just replace the whole dist, assuming it was bad.

The shop you used might have used an inferior/used chip in your dist.  The shop i used did that on the '92 civic i had, and that is why the problem never really went away.

Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: French G. on June 09, 2009, 10:23:00 PM
Who put the ignition back in and did it ever run well once it was installed? Does it have issues all the time, or come and go with engine heat?
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 09, 2009, 10:38:33 PM
it ran perfect for 10k  then the light came on it started to miss   miss getting worse
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: BReilley on June 10, 2009, 12:52:51 AM
That year CR-V will have the twincam 16V 2.0.  It would be helpful to know if you have all cylinders misfiring, or just one or two.  Bear in mind that enough misfires will take emission gas levels beyond the car's range of control, and will trip false emissions codes.

I wouldn't expect your distributor to be showing problems only now, 10,000 miles after replacement.  Typically a bad electrical part will be bad right away, not a year later.

In the absence of data, I will throw a few ideas out: pull the spark plugs, one at a time, and check for oil fouling.  You could have a leaky valve cover gasket allowing oil to build up in the valley and damage ignition wires or foul spark plugs.  You could have fuel problems leading to too much or too little fuel, the effects of which will be apparent on the plug electrodes.  You could have an ignition wire or wires leaning on some hot part, melting the insulation and causing misfires.  Etc.

See if you can't get us a list of all the codes you're getting.
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 10, 2009, 06:00:48 AM
1382manufact  control ignition system or misfire
1381   same
0301 cylinder 1 misfire
0302 cylinder 2 misfire
0300 random/multiple cylinder missfire detected
1456manufacturer contrl auxiliary emission controls
1399 pending    manufacturer  control ignition system or missfire
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: dogmush on June 10, 2009, 11:11:00 AM
Coil/coil packs.  I don't remember which that car has, but what you're describing sounds a lot like a coil on it's last legs.
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: Tuco on June 10, 2009, 02:30:03 PM
WAG -

Check the bolts that hold the dizzy to the block
And the ones that hold the cap to the dizzy

 =|

6 out of 7 codes are missfires or Blahblahblah OR misfire
The remaining code sounds like an o2 sensor that might be reading unburned fuel (the result of a misfire)

Pull plug 1 and 2 - take a look.  My guess is they'll be wet and black.  If they are structurally sound and gapped, check the wires for cracks and continuity while bending and flexing them (with a multitester or continuity light)

I still say wires, plugs, cap and rotor, if they are older than 4 yrs.
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: Nick1911 on June 10, 2009, 02:43:59 PM
Secondary voltage ignition system is the weak point of the modern gas engine.  Replace plugs, wires, and the coil pack.
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: AZRedhawk44 on June 10, 2009, 03:12:12 PM
I had a 1987 Pontiac 6000 4-banger that misfired a lot.

I changed the spark cables and she ran like a top.

Since you have the luxury of actual codes instead of stab-n-guess like I did, I'd pull the plugs on cylinders 1 and 2.  Check for gap and fouling.  Swap with plugs from 3 and 4.  See if the problem follows the plugs.

If the cables are long enough, swap the cables around at the same time.... obviously the distributor contact points need to be swapped along with the spark contact points when moving cables.

Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 10, 2009, 04:17:47 PM
thanks i will try those things tonite or tomorrow and report back.
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 10, 2009, 05:31:23 PM
i pulled the plugs  they look okay just old worn. i'm gonna start there .
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 10, 2009, 08:03:02 PM
reset it  gotta go for a drive see how it goes  i ran it in drive for a while  no codes/light yet
Title: Re: auto gurus
Post by: cassandra and sara's daddy on June 11, 2009, 01:42:28 PM
it appears the plugs were the deal.  old gap was excessive  center electrode way down almost to insulator  gap was in excess of 3/16. surprised it ran. new plugs reset codes 60 happy miles  thanks for all the guidance