Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Chester32141 on February 03, 2010, 07:02:03 PM
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Hey Y'all ... As part of my emergency kit I was going to buy a water filter that cost about $200 and then realized for the same money I could get about 1000 16 oz bottles in easy to store cases (50 cases) ... yeah it takes up a lot of space but it saves me from trying to dip water out of a ditch to run it thru a filter ... I may only set aside about 1/2 that quanity since it's just the two of us and stock up by picking up a couple extra cases a week when I see it on sale .... ;/
My question is ... should I store it in such a way as to be able to rotate my stock or does water stay good indefintely ?
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The water you drink now was peed out by an australopithecine, and by a triceratops before him, and by a tetrapod before him, etc.
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I've read people to say that each bottle so stored should have a drop of bleach, to kill germs.
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Hey Y'all ... As part of my emergency kit I was going to buy a water filter that cost about $200 and then realized for the same money I could get about 1000 16 oz bottles in easy to store cases (50 cases) ... yeah it takes up a lot of space but it saves me from trying to dip water out of a ditch to run it thru a filter ... I may only set aside about 1/2 that quanity since it's just the two of us and stock up by picking up a couple extra cases a week when I see it on sale .... ;/
My question is ... should I store it in such a way as to be able to rotate my stock or does water stay good indefintely ?
Rotate it. It isn't so much a matter of germs, just that the plastic bottles can leach chemicals after some time. I don't think it's bad enough to become life-threatening, but it's probably a good idea not to drink it if you don't have to, especially if you have to rely on that water supply for an extended period of time.
The bottles usually have an expiration date on them for this reason. If you keep them in a cool, dark place, they should last longer than they would if they were in the sun or subjected to heat. Probably past the expiration date, though I couldn't say how long.
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I am considering product below for my emergency water supply. What do you think?
http://www.purpurifierofwater.com/products.html
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I've looked at several brands of bottles water and have not been able to find an expiration date ... :cool:
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If you want to buy bottled water, I think you would be better served buying 1 gallon jugs. They will be cheaper, nearly as easy to store, and have more uses once they are empty.
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I've looked at several brands of bottles water and have not been able to find an expiration date ... :cool:
I've seen them on Aquafina bottles.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv320%2FKoloblicin%2Fsmiley-shrug.gif&hash=cde321ac8ea36e2d6d53b89cd358a7a5da0ba32d)
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I'd rather have a Berkey filter me-own-self. I imagine a bit of research on www.survivalblog.com might be in order.
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Here I was, thinking I was clever for having a reverse osmosis filter and many backup cartridges. I could literally filter sewerage and get drinkable water.
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live on a river have filter if the generator goes tits up and i can't power well
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http://www.purpurifierofwater.com/products.html
Spend the money on a Katydyn or Berkey filtration system.
I have a katydyn pocket microfilter and a stream (running from a spring fed lake a mile way) that runs right behind my house. I figure I have nearly a lifetime water supply to tap into if I ever needed it.
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There are all sorts of nasty things that can get into ground water that a filter won't remove for you.
I make bottled water my primary source. I figure it's safer to rely on water that was safe to begin with, than to take water known to be unsafe and try to bring it back into spec.
Edit: To answer your question, the expiration dates printed on store-bought bottled water are intended as a retailer aid, to allow them to rotate their inventory as needed. They aren't an indication that the water has gone bad or is unsafe to drink. The various FDA requirements that apply to store-bought bottled water are supposed to be strict enough to ensure that the water is potable indefinitely, so long as you don't allow any chemical contaminants to leach in through the bottles.
I don't have any sources of cites for this info, so use it at your own risk.
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Just ran down to the cabin to look at some bottled water. Had to start keeping plenty on hand down here or I might reach for a cold one a little early on a hot summer morning. Mine expires 11-10-11.
I know that you get taste from the bottle sooner then that but if it was all you had it is still very drinkable.
The main problem I see is it is not moble. I have no plans for ever leaving here if something happens, but you can never say never.
jim
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you could build a real nice still for 200 bucks, umm bad idea [tinfoil] sorry =|
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Is mere possession of a still illegal, or does need to actually be making alcohol with it?
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I usually have purification tabs in any of my kits. The product won't taste good, but it won't kill you and the pills are light. I need to get a Katadyn, maybe a steri-pen too. Keeping tons of bottled water is never bad, a case in every vehicle is good, but I can carry a water filter that will make me several hundred quarts of water. Carry same several hundred, not so much.
Bipedalism really puts "stuff" in a sharp focus. I walked 20 miles up here one day. I had some snacks and water I bought at a store, misc. pocket litter,an airweight 642, and an unobtanium S&W 325. Somewhere about mile 15 and several straight miles of going up those little aluminum guns were entirely too heavy.
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Check this out ... :O
The Water Bob ... From Cheaper than Dirt ... [popcorn]
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/CAMP205-1.html
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Is mere possession of a still illegal, or does need to actually be making alcohol with it?
I would hope not, everyone would be guilty of owning a still under 'constructive possision' by the ordinary everyday objects that are lying around the home.
I wouldn't distill water anyhow. Its very energy intensive, and a lot impurities are not easy to remove by distillation- especially from water.
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There are all sorts of nasty things that can get into ground water that a filter won't remove for you.
I make bottled water my primary source. I figure it's safer to rely on water that was safe to begin with, than to take water known to be unsafe and try to bring it back into spec.
Therein lies the rub. If you need to be mobile, bottled water is very heavy, but a water purified is portable. If you are stayin in one place, your water stock will run out faster than you think. You need another way to get water pure enough to drink. It doesn't need to meet EPA or Clean Air Act standards, but good enough that contagions are removed to keep you from getting immediately sick.
If its a short term emergency, drinking water with some contaminants for a few days or a few weeks isn't going to matter much. If its a TEOTWAWKI situation, your lifespan is going to be cut in half anyhow, so the main thing you need to worry about is disease.
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If you want to buy bottled water, I think you would be better served buying 1 gallon jugs. They will be cheaper, nearly as easy to store, and have more uses once they are empty.
I'd debate that...
The small bottles are typically made from better plastic, less gas permeable and more stable.
Gallon jugs are generally HDPE, which is less stable and allows lighter gasses to pass through it.
I'd use the clear PET(E) bottles for long-term storage. They're often identified by the "1" in the recycling icon on the bottom of the container.
jb
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I have thought about storing water for the big what if. I just keep a couple cases at home all the time and a case in each truck. I have my 50 gal water heater if things really go south. There is a flowing spring at my camp I can water up from and I have one of those pen jobs that kill all the bad stuff in the water. I have Brita filters to get rid of the chunky stuff first. chris3
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Actually, I'll debate the debate on water bottle size. This may only be a CA environmental thing, but in the last month I noticed the small (1/2 liter?) bottles at Costco and other stores that sell by the case have changed. They are now incredibly flimsy to the point that they won't even stand up straight, and they have very thin caps that I don't think will take being opened and closed more than a couple of times, so totally non-reusable.
The liter and gallon (the one's Costco sells are the good, clear plastic) are still pretty heavy duty and would hold up well to storage and transport.
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The .5L bottles "Kirkland" brand here, are quite good plastic still.
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Does adding pure grain alcohol (say, 1/4 cup) to water (say, a gallon) help in any way regarding microbe staunching, etc.? ??? I don't really like the idea of drinking bleach.
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Does adding pure grain alcohol (say, 1/4 cup) to water (say, a gallon) help in any way regarding microbe staunching, etc.? ??? I don't really like the idea of drinking bleach.
Chlorine tablets. (http://www.amazon.com/Aquamira-Purifier-Tablets-Chlorine-Treatment/dp/B0023AJIJ4)
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I'm thinking about buying one of these drums
http://beprepared.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_137_A_c2c_E_tn_A_name_E_WaterStorageandWaterFiltration (http://beprepared.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_137_A_c2c_E_tn_A_name_E_WaterStorageandWaterFiltration)
and either emptying/refilling it once a month, or buying some of the purification tablets to maintain it with. You can buy the drums with and without the "combo" (drum, emergency siphon, bung and gas wrench).
Since I move a lot, I wouldn't have a ton of water to carry from house to house, just empty the drum and refill at my new destination.
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Return to the old days. Beer, it's got lots of water in it and is pretty microbe resistant. Plus you won't care if the world ended. Buy Bud, it's cheap and you won't be able to tell when it has gone bad, taste will be the same. If you buy by the truckload you also have payroll for your new private army.
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Wine. Lots of wine.
In USAF Combat Survival School, we were taught that iodine tablets merely drive the evil bugs dormant until they pass through your system. Of course, that's probably why we added lots of iodine tablets to the water we collected downstream from a herd of cattle spotted later... :O
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Therein lies the rub. If you need to be mobile, bottled water is very heavy, but a water purified is portable. If you are stayin in one place, your water stock will run out faster than you think. You need another way to get water pure enough to drink. It doesn't need to meet EPA or Clean Air Act standards, but good enough that contagions are removed to keep you from getting immediately sick.
If its a short term emergency, drinking water with some contaminants for a few days or a few weeks isn't going to matter much. If its a TEOTWAWKI situation, your lifespan is going to be cut in half anyhow, so the main thing you need to worry about is disease.
Heh. I'd like to see how mobile you are after contracting dysentery from your filtered water. And the duration of the disaster doesn't hardly matter, you can get immediately sick enough from one drink of bad water to leave you incapacitated for days.
Filters are great tools for weekend trips in the mountains where your only real fear is giardia or crypto. I question their reliability in a EOTW type event, when the public utilities shut down (including sewers and sanitation) and things start getting messy. It's too easy for filter-proof viruses to spread in that sort of environment.
My preference is for bottled water for as long as necessary to set up a permanent water cleaning solution. My second preference would be for chemical treatment, for instance if I had to leave my supplies behind. Filtration would be a third tier choice for me.
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Filters are great tools for weekend trips in the mountains where your only real fear is giardia or crypto. I question their reliability in a EOTW type event, when the public utilities shut down (including sewers and sanitation) and things start getting messy. It's too easy for filter-proof viruses to spread in that sort of environment.
There are filters, and there are FILTERS. Some are cheap yet good enough for occasional camping or backpacking, some are expensive, sturdy, and made for long term usage. http://www.katadyn.com/en/katadyn-products/products/katadynshopconnect/katadyn-wasserfilter-endurance-series-produkte/katadyn-pocket/
http://www.berkeyfilters.com/berkeytech.htm
There are other things that can be done to pretreat ground water to make these even more effective- filter ground water through a bed of sand/gravel/charcoal to remove particulates and turbulance (even radioactivity). before using the unit for final filtration.
How long can you survive on $250 worth of bottled water?
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I'd debate that...
The small bottles are typically made from better plastic, less gas permeable and more stable.
Gallon jugs are generally HDPE, which is less stable and allows lighter gasses to pass through it.
I'd use the clear PET(E) bottles for long-term storage. They're often identified by the "1" in the recycling icon on the bottom of the container.
jb
What about the 5 gallon heavy plastic jugs that are used by the delivery companies?
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Here's a detailed lab test of the Berkey filters. http://www.berkeyfilters.com/watertest.htm
One thing I didn't see though: how well do they remove heavy metals from ground water?
Oops, there it is...
The water test below show results for the Black Berkey elements when required to filter water containing Lead, Chloroform (represents volatile organic compounds and trihalomethanes) and chlorine. milligrams per liter (mg/L) is equivalent to parts per million (ppm), as stated in this document. The lead was reduced from 170 ppb(.017ppm) to less than 6 ppb, that's greater than 96% reduction.VOC's and Trihalomethanes were reduced from 170 ppb (.017 ppm) to as low .5 ppb (.0005 ppm) that's greater than 99.8%. Chlorine was reduced from 2 ppm to .01 ppm that's greater than 95% reduction.
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The water you drink now was peed out by an australopithecine, and by a triceratops before him, and by a tetrapod before him, etc.
mmmmmm, triceratops pee. As a side note, filters must work pretty well, I've used them backpacking in very questionable water sources and I've never gotten sick. Once had to pull from a spring near a horse trail, there were stacks of horse poo 15 feet from where I was pulling. I did have a fairly nice katadyn filter though... Now I'm looking into that endurance one.
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Please correct me if I'm wrong but I'm under the impression that filters are only good for removing particles larger than the filter will allow to pass. They do nothing for the big three contaminates that I would have to deal with in my area; gas, oil, and salt water ... I realize that I could get a filter that would handle salt water but the cost is high and the lifetime volume is low and it still wouldn't take care of gas, oil or any of the other poisons that can be in water found in ditches and puddles ... I don't live near a source of fresh water so ditches and puddles would be my source, poor as they are, and I'm disabled so hunkering down here at home is my plan for TEOTWAWKI ... =|
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I'm thinking about buying one of these drums
http://beprepared.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_137_A_c2c_E_tn_A_name_E_WaterStorageandWaterFiltration (http://beprepared.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_137_A_c2c_E_tn_A_name_E_WaterStorageandWaterFiltration)
and either emptying/refilling it once a month, or buying some of the purification tablets to maintain it with. You can buy the drums with and without the "combo" (drum, emergency siphon, bung and gas wrench).
Since I move a lot, I wouldn't have a ton of water to carry from house to house, just empty the drum and refill at my new destination.
I have had five of the thirty gallon barrels from that site for the past four years.
Work great; I rotate the water about every six months. I throw in a few tablespoons or so of bleach when I refill them. Move them around with a hand truck.
A buddy of mine uses the same barrels, and two weeks ago he refilled them after they had been sitting for about three years - nothing wrong with the old water.
Sawdust
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Please correct me if I'm wrong but I'm under the impression that filters are only good for removing particles larger than the filter will allow to pass. They do nothing for the big three contaminates that I would have to deal with in my area; gas, oil, and salt water ... I realize that I could get a filter that would handle salt water but the cost is high and the lifetime volume is low and it still wouldn't take care of gas, oil or any of the other poisons that can be in water found in ditches and puddles ... I don't live near a source of fresh water so ditches and puddles would be my source, poor as they are, and I'm disabled so hunkering down here at home is my plan for TEOTWAWKI ...
Do you get any rain?
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Does adding pure grain alcohol (say, 1/4 cup) to water (say, a gallon) help prevent bacteria/virus growth? ??? I don't really like the idea of drinking bleach.
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There are filters, and there are FILTERS. Some are cheap yet good enough for occasional camping or backpacking, some are expensive, sturdy, and made for long term usage. http://www.katadyn.com/en/katadyn-products/products/katadynshopconnect/katadyn-wasserfilter-endurance-series-produkte/katadyn-pocket/
http://www.berkeyfilters.com/berkeytech.htm
There are other things that can be done to pretreat ground water to make these even more effective- filter ground water through a bed of sand/gravel/charcoal to remove particulates and turbulance (even radioactivity). before using the unit for final filtration.
How long can you survive on $250 worth of bottled water?
I know a man who runs mission trips abroad, to places where the same river serves double duty as sewer drain and water supply. He tells me he's tried filters in the past (good filters, Sweetwaters and Berkeys) to treat water for his groups, and each time someone got sick. The problem is viruses. Even the best filters leave enough virus in the water that people can still get sick from it. Yes, even the Berkey.
He says bottled water is best, boiled is second best, and chem treated is third. He's given up on trying to find a filter that works. I take him at his word, he knows this stuff pretty well. Listening to him about how "modern primitive" communities live is quite enlightening.
It's worth noting that the water found in the wilderness here in the States is generally pretty clean. The only contaminants to worry about are giardia or cryptosporidia, which any average filter can handle with ease. Heck, thru hikers often drink right out of the stream, and they usually fair well well enough. If your plans are to hide in the hills until the mess blows over, then a filter is probably OK. Just make sure nobody else is crapping in your stream.
I figure boiling is impractical in a prolonged emergency. The amount of fuel required would be prohibitive. And even if you had the fuel you'd probably be better off saving it for some other purpose.
Chem treatment probably works. I don't relish the idea if drinking bleach with my water, but in a pinch I could make do.
That leaves bottled water. If you're careful what you buy you can get cases of 35 half liter bottles for about $3.00. A case is enough for about a week for one person, if you only use it for drinking and rely on something else for washing and sanitation. For $250 I could buy 80 cases, which would last 10 months for my wife and me. That's more than I feel we need.
YMMV. I figure in the end, the only real solution is acreage and a hand-powered well pump.
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My current wilderness system is an MSR MIOX unit coupled with a PUR filter with carbon element to kill any aftertaste from the MIOX. I also have a SteriPen I gpt for Christmas last year but haven't really used it much. Downside with the Steripen and MIOX units of course is batteries.
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Where do you live? In a dump?
Just get some filters like coffee filters and some water purification tablets like
NSN 6850-01-352-6129
We're talking survival, right?
TC
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He says bottled water is best, boiled is second best, and chem treated is third. He's given up on trying to find a filter that works. I take him at his word, he knows this stuff pretty well. Listening to him about how "modern primitive" communities live is quite enlightening.
I wonder if he is referring to water bottled in the First World or under First World conditions. Can you trust the local bottled water in the boonies of Asia or Africa?
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Where do you live? In a dump?
Just get some filters like coffee filters and some water purification tablets like
NSN 6850-01-352-6129
We're talking survival, right?
TC
If that was in reference to ... the big three contaminates that I would have to deal with in my area; gas, oil, and salt water
... ask yourself how much filterable water there was in the New Orleans area after Katrina ... I live in a small town on Florida's east coast, the most likely situation here would be devastation and flooding caused by a hurricane ... if you don't think there would be oil, gas and salt mixed w/ any available standing water then you have never seen or experienced the after effects of a hurricane ... ;/
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I wonder if he is referring to water bottled in the First World or under First World conditions. Can you trust the local bottled water in the boonies of Asia or Africa?
Do 3rd world countries bottle their own water?
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I wonder if he is referring to water bottled in the First World or under First World conditions. Can you trust the local bottled water in the boonies of Asia or Africa?
I dunno. I doubt they brought the water with 'em from America, tho...
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Where do you live? In a dump?
Once city infrastructure shuts down, I expect the dump will come to you.
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Does adding pure grain alcohol (say, 1/4 cup) to water (say, a gallon) help prevent bacteria/virus growth? ??? I don't really like the idea of drinking bleach.
Dunno about adding alcohol. My plan was to either cycle the water every month, or add this Aquamira chlorine dioxide treatment:
http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_WP%20T160_A_name_E_Aquamira%20Chlorine%20Dioxide%20Water%20Treatment (http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_WP%20T160_A_name_E_Aquamira%20Chlorine%20Dioxide%20Water%20Treatment)
At $16 for 60 gallons, though, I hope it can keep the water pure for a long while.
I now notice that it can "also be used to treat existing stored water supplies ..." so I suppose I could wait until I needed the water, add the treatment, and wait a day. That seems especially effective in conjunction with cycling the water periodically.
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Teh alcohol not so shiney...Srsly.
Alcohol has a much lower vapor pressure (evaporates much more quickly) than does water. Regardless of what sort of plastic container you store the mix in, it is gas-permeable to some degree. Even chlorine-treated water will have the chlorine evaporate before the water does, which is why you can prepare water to go into an aquarium by pouring into a shallow, open container and leaving it overnight. The chlorine evaporates, leaving goldfish-friendly water. The same holds true for all stored water. HDPE and other plastics will allow the alcohol (or chlorine) to evaporate, leaving your water untreated. Glass and metal containers slow this down the most, but are hardly suitable in this context.
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But do you need the chlorine any more after it's killed off all of the bugs in the water?
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^^Good point.
Ethanol and chlorine molecules are far smaller than microorganisms, and besides, does professionally bottled/ sealed water gain bacterial growth over time?
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I'm thinking about buying one of these drums
http://beprepared.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_137_A_c2c_E_tn_A_name_E_WaterStorageandWaterFiltration (http://beprepared.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_137_A_c2c_E_tn_A_name_E_WaterStorageandWaterFiltration)
and either emptying/refilling it once a month, or buying some of the purification tablets to maintain it with. You can buy the drums with and without the "combo" (drum, emergency siphon, bung and gas wrench).
Since I move a lot, I wouldn't have a ton of water to carry from house to house, just empty the drum and refill at my new destination.
Check Craigslist. If you are anywhere near a big city, most have food packaging centers who use these barrels like toilet paper. Use them once for wine, fruit juice, etc, then get rid of them. There's a guy nearby me who makes extra cash by picking up various food grade containers and reselling them. I get the large 55 gallon drum for $15/each. Fill them with water, treat with bleach, and cap them. I also store cases of small bottles, and gallon jugs. I have a berkey filter for emergencies, and a creek that runs behind my house, about 300 feet off, and 15 feet downslope. My next step is finishing up actual barrel storage, then starting on rain catchment. I don't like having all my eggs in one basket if I don't have to.
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But do you need the chlorine any more after it's killed off all of the bugs in the water?
The first time you break a seal on the water, put a pump or siphon hose in it, or just don't get it quite sealed back up after it's been treated, you can/have admitted "germs". My wife, the nurse, tells me that any "sterile" water container that gets opened is pitched out after use, regardless of how much remains. You can culture some really nasty stuff in untreated water. Pseudomonas comes to mind...
Now, all that being said, ya gotta have water, and any water is better than no water at all. Don't let Perfect be the enemy of Good Enough. BTW, chlorine bleach in bottles loses chlorine over time, just like treated water. If you really want to store chlorine for use at some future date, get a pack of dry swimming pool treatment sodium hypchlorite. It's cheap, a zillion times more concentrated than Chlorox, and has a near infinite shelf life. It's ususally sold as a shock treatment for the pool. Get that with no other active ingredient, like fungicide or algicide.
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If you really want to store chlorine for use at some future date, get a pack of dry swimming pool treatment sodium hypchlorite. It's cheap, a zillion times more concentrated than Chlorox, and has a near infinite shelf life. It's ususally sold as a shock treatment for the pool. Get that with no other active ingredient, like fungicide or algicide.
Excellent advice. I do exactly this...a couple of caveats:
1) The chemical (I use calcium hypochlorite) may have a near-infinite shelf-life, but the cheap-ass plastic bags that it comes in deteriorate in about a year. I need to get some glass jars.
2) If kept in its original packaging, it outgasses. Don't keep it in a cabinet with other metallic items or metal hinges and shelf pins...major corrosion. DAMHIKT.
Sawdust
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Another thought, though it depends on where you are regionally- what about digging/installing a hand water pump well?
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or a nice 500-1000 gallon tank in the attic [popcorn] it would really even out your water pressure =D a leak would suck though [tinfoil]
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Another thought, though it depends on where you are regionally- what about digging/installing a hand water pump well?
Many cities won't allow you do to that. They expect you to be on the public utilities, not screwing around with the local water table.
If you're in the country, a hand powered well pump would be ideal.
or a nice 500-1000 gallon tank in the attic [popcorn] it would really even out your water pressure =D a leak would suck though [tinfoil]
Better hope it doesn't freeze and split the tank...
=D
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Many cities won't allow you do to that. They expect you to be on the public utilities, not screwing around with the local water table.
I didn't say anything about letting the city know about it. I mean who wouldn't want a nicely painted hand pump in their yard as a decoration piece for their garden/patio. :lol:
Tanks on roofs:
When I was in Mexico I noticed that many of the houses had big black water tanks (several hundred gallons)on their roofs- must be their way of making hot water. That wouldn't work in my region though where temps get into the lower minus 20s in winter.
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Guerrilla well drillers?
:lol:
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Guerrilla well drillers?
Yeah, probably a bad idea to upset the powers that be. :laugh:
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Couple of these could come in pretty handy...
Ok, I don't know what the heck happened there.
http://www.surewatertanks.com/tank_products.html (http://www.surewatertanks.com/tank_products.html)
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I'm semi serious, though. Don't most well drillers need official approval of some sort before they can sink a well? If they don't have or can't get that approval, would they be willing to install a discrete well in your backyard anyway?
Honest question, I really don't know. I'd probably be interested in doing this if it's feasible.
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yeah, can't even dig a well to wash your car, and water your garden. it really makes you wonder who owns land now. ???
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Ok, fixed my earlier screw up.
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pretty common to drill wells here permit to hook up to house and also for agricultural wells . if you don't drill case and grout your well right you can contaminate a neighbors.
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Couple of these could come in pretty handy...
Ok, I don't know what the heck happened there.
http://www.surewatertanks.com/tank_products.html (http://www.surewatertanks.com/tank_products.html)
So ... how many of those do you own ? =)
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Do 3rd world countries bottle their own water?
Why yes... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiji_water
My understanding is that old water will taste flat. To freshen it up just pour it between two glasses for a few minutes to add some air back into it.
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So ... how many of those do you own ? =)
Lol. Unfortunately, none so far. For now, I'm working with the smaller 55 gallon drums. They are in the long term plan, though.
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'm semi serious, though. Don't most well drillers need official approval of some sort before they can sink a well? If they don't have or can't get that approval, would they be willing to install a discrete well in your backyard anyway?
Honest question, I really don't know. I'd probably be interested in doing this if it's feasible.
I did some asking around. Seems its fairly easy to install a well (technically easy that is). You need a well point which is a sharp spike with a perforated body that you drive into the ground with a fence post driver, screw on a length of pipe and repeat until you are at the minimum depth (In my area its 25' for drinking water, less for irrigation). My state regs require the well casing to have a concrete pad a minimum of 1' out from the well casing and at least 4" thick, with the well casing being sealed to the concrete with proper sealant or asphalt.
From the sound of the WI DNR regs, I would need a permit, but not a license to put in a Well Point. The Regs even have nice diagrams showing how to put one in :cool: This would fall well within the means of a determined DIYer, just need about $100 worth of parts, a pitcher or hand pump, a saturday afternoon and a case of cold beer.
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for emergency use that would be cool. shallow wells have drawbacks though on quality/purity
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I did some asking around. Seems its fairly easy to install a well (technically easy that is). You need a well point which is a sharp spike with a perforated body that you drive into the ground with a fence post driver, screw on a length of pipe and repeat until you are at the minimum depth (In my area its 25' for drinking water, less for irrigation). My state regs require the well casing to have a concrete pad a minimum of 1' out from the well casing and at least 4" thick, with the well casing being sealed to the concrete with proper sealant or asphalt.
From the sound of the WI DNR regs, I would need a permit, but not a license to put in a Well Point. The Regs even have nice diagrams showing how to put one in :cool: This would fall well within the means of a determined DIYer, just need about $100 worth of parts, a pitcher or hand pump, a saturday afternoon and a case of cold beer.
Hmm. That's promising.
I wonder how deep the water table is around here. 25 feet sounds kinda shallow.
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must be nice to be in a free state. =| here if your in the city limits, you have to have a permit to do anything. [tinfoil]