Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: dm1333 on April 17, 2010, 04:35:33 PM
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I'm looking for a chainsaw. The main use is going to be cutting firewood (I have wood heat, need about a cord a year) so I don't need a real big saw but I would also like something that I can use with a chain saw mill if I ever build a post and beam structure and cut my own wood.
What saw would you recommend?
Would the Husqvarna 240 be adequate for this? The reason why I am asking is that I can get one at a deeply discounted price. I think the Husky would work great just for firewood but I don't have any experience with them.
Are Craftsmen or Poulan saws any good?
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I have a little $99 Poulan. It's a PITA to start, but once it's warmed up it works great. It's probably too light for a mill.
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I've always been partial to pawn-shop-find Jonsereds.
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Well I just found a bunch of reviews on this saw and won't be buying it. Too much plastic in it that breaks. So I'm going to just see what people recommend for wood cutting and mill use.
If I could find a Jonsered around here I would buy it, but there are no pawn shops within a three hour drive. Most of the loggers here use Stihl but not from either of the saw shops in town. Both shops are small, one also has a nursery, the other sells other types of power equipment. The next time I drive over the hill I may stop into the Stihl dealer in Willits and see what they have in stock.
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I have a 25 year old Husky 61 that has been rode hard and put away wet- still runs great- got it so filthy once cutting in a burn I pulled out the plug, shoved a garden hose into the carb and flushed it with water..... A few pulls to clear it, plug in , and it fired right off. That was 20 years ago. Starts third pull, after sitting for a year. Great saw. Have no idea what new ones are like, though.
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Are Craftsmen or Poulan saws any good?
NO!
Stihl and Husky are both good brands. Everything else is junk IMO.
For chainsaw-milling lumber you will need the biggest saw that either Stihl or Husky makes (~ $1000 ? =| ). For the wear and tear on the saw, I think you can buy lumber cheaper, unless you're having to do it out in the bush somewhere.
What size firewood are you cutting?
Around here we have everything up to big old knotty pines almost three feet in diameter, so I still use my Stihl 046 with 30" bar (I think today's equivalent is the 460)
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I don't get to cut anything as thick as 3 ft most of the time, most of the wood is closer to 2 feet or even smaller. I also have a contact with a local gardener and tree trimmer and get to pick over smaller downed trees or stuff that he has cut up. It wouldn't bother me to go as large as a 30 inch bar but I don't really need something that big.
The Husky 240 reviews talked about plastic in the chain adjuster breaking and a few other things.
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The mill you expect to use will have some well defined specs for the saw used: heed them.
'Round here, the Stihl vs Husqvarna argument is nearly as old and tiresome as Ford vs Chevy. The quality of the shops and support available would turn me either way. I do recommend getting a model or two higher up the power scale than the one that seems to be big enough, I don't think you will regret it. If your dealer can do it, have him let you try, or at least see, the difference between the anti-kickback chains and the chisel bit chains.
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Check out this site (http://www.arboristsite.com/) for chainsaw reviews.
FWIW I have a Dolmar (http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/productcatalog/category/3/index.html) and it runs really good.
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Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.
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Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.
Quoted for truth.
I'm a landscaper who cuts down and cuts up trees frequently. I don't know which exact model will suit your needs, but I recommend a Stihl. That's not to say Husqvarna isn't as good; I've simply never owned one.
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Echo is a good brand. If you're thinking about sawmilling with it, you'd need at least a CS-660, and an CS-800 would be better. That's a big heavy saw though for everything else...
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Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.
Stihl brand chains are quite good, but also quite expensive. I've got a couple more loops left on the last 100' roll of Oregon chain that I bought, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do when that runs out. =|
I would recommend getting a saw big enough that uses the standard 3/8" pitch chain, rather than one of those little ones.
Keeping it sharp: I always carried a round file in my wedge pouch (or at least with my gas/oil cans) and sharpened three or four times during the day. The least bit of cutting resistance was intolerable. When you're making your living on scale, you've got to be cutting fast!
Echo is a good brand.
Whatever... =|
When you're using a saw all day every day, the off brands (anything but Stihl or Husky) last maybe a month or two. My current saw is 13 years old. I used it professionally for about half a year and then been cutting all our own firewood since then, plus doing some fuel reduction and fire break work on our own place and for hire for some neighbors. Last year I had to buy a spark plug for it. ;)
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i'm another husky 612 owner bought four of em used and partially disassembled (in a big box) for 200 bucks 15 years ago. put 3 running ones together and run the heck out of em. killed one last year by dragging it 2 miles on asphalt. i would like a bigger saw also looking into milling
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another vote for husky/stihl. i have a Stihl which i swear by, and my buddy has a very nice Husky that he recently got and can only say good things about. i haven't used it, but held it and revved it, and i can say that it handles it's power very smoothly.
i'm no expert at sawmills... actually, i know nothing about them, but if i were to mill my own wood i'd see if i could rent a sawmill.
TMM
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Stihl and Husky are both good brands. Everything else is junk IMO.
Depends on what you're doing; somewhere in the shop is a Poulan 16" with at least 15 years on it. I think it was $50 used.
I'm using a Craftsman 18", ($80 used) and going through mesquites (3-12" trunks) like butter. I've used the Poulan to slowly cut up a walnut that was about 30", but I should have just felled it then split it by hand. In general for this area, 8-12" is the biggest thing you'll need to cut on a regular basis, with the bigger ones being a maybe-once-a-year job. Standing-dead mesquite is pretty hard, (and rare - they're tough to kill) but with a sharp chain, it's easily manageable. Bois d'arc wears chains out like you wouldn't believe, but even still, we've cut a lot up with that old Poulan.
I'm setting aside a bit of money from sales for a Husqvarna, but I suspect even once I get one, the Craftsman will stay in the truck as a better option than changing or sharpening a chain in the field.
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Forget milling your own wood, IMHO, unless you just absolutely can't let it go.
Let me tell you of a mistake my parents made when building their house...they used the wood off the property, sent it to a local sawmill, and made the mistake of not drying it long enough. This has caused problems. So, unless you are willing to wait a while for the wood to dry, it's going to give you issues of dimensional changes. And that's bad for precision stuff like houses, furniture, etc.
We use a couple of older Poulans, and we mainly cut with bows. We do have one 20" straight bar on one of the Poulans for felling trees. We use Oregon chains. Dad and I are looking at buying a Husky if we can find a bow blade to fit it.
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i've used both husky and stihl. couldn't kill either, but the little homeowner stihl that i have right now is very easy to start and handle. my only regret is that i can't swap chains with my buddies 046, as mine has a smaller pitch. stihl chains are more expensive, but they last and last if you don't hit the dirt with them. something about higher chrome %. i also think the chainsaw mills are a waste of time, unless you're in the middle of nowhere with no other means of getting lumber. pain to set the first cut, and wear and tear on the saw is major for what you get. the smaller pitch is fine for a couple cords of wood a year, but for the mill you would want the 3/8. i used to use an old homelite "wiz" for the mill with a 30" bar and 1/2" pitch, but then couldn't find the chain around here anymore. real shame as that saw had some torque.
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Remember that by far the most important element of any chainsaw's performance is having a good chain (the one it comes with is probably junk) and keeping it sharp.
True, a quality chain can really "make the saw". Which makes sense, since it's the chain doing the cutting. The rest is just how good at making a 2-cycle engine the manufacturer is.
However, many people who own their first saw don't follow the owners manual and follow the tension adjustment schedule for a new saw and chain, which is every few cuts, or once every cut for big cuts in hard wood.
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True, a quality chain can really "make the saw". Which makes sense, since it's the chain doing the cutting. The rest is just how good at making a 2-cycle engine the manufacturer is.
There are some ergonomic considerations that could be easily solved by explaining to the engineers that a condition of continued employment will be that they each cut two cords of wood with a final design before it goes into mass production, but yes, chain and motor is pretty much all the saw consists of.
I've seen a few saws going cheap at flea markets and garage sales because they don't cut right. Every time, I can run my hand down the bar without any fear of being cut by the original chain that came with the saw 3-5 years before. Put a new chain on it, (that one's always long past the point where it can be sharpened) and it works like a champ.
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Every manual I have read calls for sharpening the chain when the saw is refueled. Every professional I have spoken with or watched work has done exactly that. The couple of times I have failed to follow suit, I have found it worthwhile to stop and sharpen the chain.
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Every manual I have read calls for sharpening the chain when the saw is refueled.
Never heard that one, but I do tend to touch it up after a day of moderate use, or any time it seems to be trying too hard. Probably comes out to about every other refueling. A few strokes with the file when taking a break from cutting saves some harder work later.
Anybody using this sharpener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213 I know some HF stuff is hit-and-miss, but this looks like it might be simple enough for them to get it right.
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Never heard that one, but I do tend to touch it up after a day of moderate use, or any time it seems to be trying too hard. Probably comes out to about every other refueling. A few strokes with the file when taking a break from cutting saves some harder work later.
Anybody using this sharpener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213 I know some HF stuff is hit-and-miss, but this looks like it might be simple enough for them to get it right.
i have never had an electric sharpener. usually i use the right file with a depth gauge on it. about $5.00 at the stihl dealer. i do recommend "sharpening" every full tank of gas (which only takes about two minutes as you only pass the file across the teeth a few times each). if you hit the dirt, it's time to sharpen right then. you should be aware of how the saw cuts with a new chain. count how long it takes to get through an averaged size log. a chain with even minor dulling will take 50-100% more time for each cut. this not only wastes your time, it is effectively cutting the life of your saw in half. look at the type of "sawdust" it's throwing. there will be no actual "dust" with a sharp chain, it will be all small chips. sharp teeth will not show a shiny cutting edge, as this glint only appears well after the teeth have started to "round" at the tips. when needed i will take my chain to a pro for sharpening. he will have a machine similar to the one above, but it should be oil cooled to avoid burning the teeth.
btw, the stihl saw that i have had since 2006 is a ms280 witha 20" bar. i only cut maybe twice a year now but it is always easy to start, handle, and much less vibration than some. i also have a husqy 266se that i bought in the early eighties that still runs great once started, but the stihl starts better after long storage. both of them have an excellent chain brake. i will not own a saw without one. don't be fooled by the saws with the handguards that look similar to a hand brake.
never use your saw when tired or distracted if your life and limbs are important to you!
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Never heard that one, but I do tend to touch it up after a day of moderate use, or any time it seems to be trying too hard. Probably comes out to about every other refueling. A few strokes with the file when taking a break from cutting saves some harder work later.
Anybody using this sharpener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93213 I know some HF stuff is hit-and-miss, but this looks like it might be simple enough for them to get it right.
yes and yes
says the guy with 30 chains hanging on his wall
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Forget milling your own wood, IMHO, unless you just absolutely can't let it go.
Let me tell you of a mistake my parents made when building their house...they used the wood off the property, sent it to a local sawmill, and made the mistake of not drying it long enough. This has caused problems. So, unless you are willing to wait a while for the wood to dry, it's going to give you issues of dimensional changes. And that's bad for precision stuff like houses, furniture, etc.
We use a couple of older Poulans, and we mainly cut with bows. We do have one 20" straight bar on one of the Poulans for felling trees. We use Oregon chains. Dad and I are looking at buying a Husky if we can find a bow blade to fit it.
i've never used a bow blade could you explain em to me?
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I know little about logging and chain saws, but I am observant. In this area, where there is still a lot of logging going on, I see most of the professional loggers carrying Stihl chainsaws in their trucks.
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Back when I heated with wood, I had a Stihl... Kept oil in it, kept bar grease in it, and kept the chain sharp. Worked all the time.
That said, I have a friend who swears by his Dolman...
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I'm inyo pawn shop saws myself, got an old pre-primer bulb Craftsman that does great. I am occasional use though. My dad has heated with wood only and run a big Husq for nearly 20 years. Just take the anti-kick chain the new saw comes with, close your eyes and heave that pos into the weeds. Smack your dog if it fetches it. Put a real chain on it. Sharpen often. My dad just keeps straight carbide burrs on a dotco, no time for screwing with files.
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Sharpening interval is determined by usage, and just how it feels and what the chips look like. Sometimes I can go several gas refills, sometimes not even one.
IIRC, I'm using Oregon 72LG: full comp chisel chain, no safety links.
Back in Colorado cutting lodgepole and spruce, I used the semi-skip chain (72JG?) but that doesn't work well on this knotty ponderosa.
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If you ever find a running Partner chainsaw at a garage sale or something, buy it. I don't think they make them anymore; they only make concrete saws and stuff now. But my dad had/has a Partner he bought decades ago and it was the best saw probably ever. He bought a Husky when the coil went out of the partner, and bought a Stihl when the husky wore out a few years later, but if he could still get parts for the Partner I have no doubt he would start using it again. A very strong-running saw with no plastic parts to break.
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In this area, where there is still a lot of logging going on, I see most of the professional loggers carrying Stihl chainsaws in their trucks.
Those are just the ones who aren't man enough for a real saw: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szTkkJFAIGM or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY2SFAJb3uM for speed.
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Fun thread.
I use a homelite XL. Its probably older then I am. I have no doubt that it wouldn't last a month in professional service, but for my uses, it works just fine.
If I ever replace it, id buy a Sthil, but that's just because I like buying commercial grade things. =)
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Get whatever kind this is:
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdoubleawesome.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2009%2F07%2Fbruce-campbell.jpg&hash=67cf7ebe5011728be3cce48ba6a46cc221bfd1d3)
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I found that time spent making sure the chain was good & sharp was almost always a good investment. Generally speaking, when I took a break, so did the saw: gas, oil, & a touch up on the chain if needed.
Doesn't take much, just a clean rat tail file of the correct size & such.
I did residential tree removal, which was a different critter from logging. A lot more time spent making sure nothing went through the customer's roof or into the power lines. The saws the climbers used had to be powerful, light, & easy to start. Ground men needed larger, more powerful machines.
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Fun thread.
I use a homelite XL. Its probably older then I am. I have no doubt that it wouldn't last a month in professional service, but for my uses, it works just fine.
If I ever replace it, id buy a Sthil, but that's just because I like buying commercial grade things. =)
I think I had one of those. Somebody gave it to me. It was blue, and vibrated so bad the screws would could flying out while you were cutting. I got pretty good at catching them in mid-air. =)
Then like a fool I went down and bought a brand new Homelite 360. As I picked it up, the guy at the shop bragged how it would last 300 hours. He was right, I wore it out in two months ;/
My next saw was a Stihl 045 ;)
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i've never used a bow blade could you explain em to me?
They are...interesting.
A lot of people say they are dangerous. And they are, if you don't know what you are doing with them. Cutting with them in the wrong place on the blade WILL get you hurt/dead quick. They are pretty much unavailable new, except to licensed tree arborists, due to the liability (personally, when it comes to a frickin' chainsaw, how the hell is a bow blade more "dangerous" than a straight blade?!). You MUST keep the proper posture with them and be careful. Keeping any guards in place would also be a good idea, IMHO.
They are excellent for cutting up downed trees into logs. I find them less fatiguing and somewhat faster to use than a straight blade for that purpose. We even fell trees with them, although it's not ideal or recommended.
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i'm building a firewood processor and that might be handy. i know where to find a couple
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i'm building a firewood processor and that might be handy. i know where to find a couple
Get some hands on instruction and practice from somebody that knows how to use one.
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i will and thanks for the heads up. a chain saw when it hurts you really hurts you. the processor saw will be hydraulically driven
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i will and thanks for the heads up. a chain saw when it hurts you really hurts you. the processor saw will be hydraulically driven
Yea. Chainsaws, motorcycles and guns. You're lucky if you get the chance to have more then once accident with em.
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i've done 2 outa three three outa three if you count shooting my own truck
these
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Chainsaw-Professional-Chain-RG6521K-L/dp/B000PDO7W4
are a very good thing i do regret not using hearing protection as a young feller
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yep, i second the hearing protection. i suffer from tinitus, most of which came from playing in loud bands but chainsaws are a noisy creature. safety glasses are a must, as well as a hard hat when needed. watch out for the dead limbs and trees, as the upper branches may break off as the tree starts to fall. stay well clear if in doubt.
right now i'm in the process of getting my friend into a chainsaw operator course. yesterday he asked me to help him drop two small evergreens (about 12" at the base). we roped the first tree off to avoid having it fall onto his electric line. we both agreed on the best place for it to go, and he insisted on felling it. he gets his saw going and cuts a wedge in the right place. then he starts to cut on the back side and is seesawing the saw back and forth. i try to tell him to stop, but there's no hearing me with the saw going. the tree starts to fall, bingo right where we wanted it. he stops the saw and i go over to talk to him about his technique. we look at the stump and i point out how the hinge is totally cut off on both sides with only a crescent shape sliver left, and how it should be nearly straight across with about an inch thickness. he points out that the tree fell right where we wanted it, and i tell him he got lucky. so i figure my advice hasn't fallen on deaf ears, and we rope off the second tree. this time he cuts the hinge entirely off and the tree falls directly towards where he is standing about 90 degrees from our planned landing zone). fortunatly he is watching and steps around the tree to avoid getting hurt. he owns an outdoor wood furnace, and heats entirely with wood so he uses his saw all the time. i have given him some advice on cutting in the past trying not to butt-in excessively, but after watching him fell these trees i think it's time to get him some professional instruction.
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Stihl, Husky, Jonsered, are all good quality saws. You should be shopping only at a real saw shop, not a big box store. Like others have said, forget about using a mill saw to cut firewood. I heat with wood using a hungry outside wood boiler and do all my cutting with a Stihl MS361. It's a professional grade saw so probably a bit overkill for firewood, but it cuts fast, starts when I need it to and will probably last me decades. If you only need a cord a year, one of the smaller, homeowner or mid-range stihl models would probably suit you just fine.
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Speaking of saws.. I am living proof the chaps work. Slipped while cleaning branches off of a felled tree and touched my thigh with the saw. It went right through the outer canvas layer and sucked in the fibers inside which stopped the saw cold. It did not even touch the inside canvas layer or more importantly my leg! Stood there looked at it for a few seconds, looked at my Dad, we both said "huh", cleaned the fibers out of the saw, duct taped the chaps and then went back to it. I've been a lot more careful since then!
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the processor saw will be hydraulically driven
Take a look at those big "slide boom" delimbers/log processors if you have some in your area.
They use a conventional bar and chain in a much larger pitch (1/2" ?).
Hydrualic motor driven chain, and the bar swing is controlled by a hydraulic cylinder.
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Actually... does anyone have any good resources for safely operating a chainsaw?
I received some good basic instruction from my dad, but would like to learn more. Build some good habits early on...
Seems like lots of homeowner types get injured by chainsaws every year. =|
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now that the thread has most of the useful stuff time for some fun. [popcorn]
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rotaryaction.com%2Fimages%2Fworldisnote.jpg&hash=3e8e17bb595416101f199f10047a96b8d24ed391) (http://www.rotaryaction.com/pages/twine99.html)
just remember to watch flying blades. :O
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Speaking of saws.. I am living proof the chaps work. Slipped while cleaning branches off of a felled tree and touched my thigh with the saw. It went right through the outer canvas layer and sucked in the fibers inside which stopped the saw cold. It did not even touch the inside canvas layer or more importantly my leg! Stood there looked at it for a few seconds, looked at my Dad, we both said "huh", cleaned the fibers out of the saw, duct taped the chaps and then went back to it. I've been a lot more careful since then!
Like this (http://www.labonville.com/videos/v2.htm)?
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Like this (http://www.labonville.com/videos/v2.htm)?
exactly except my leg was in there!
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now that the thread has most of the useful stuff time for some fun. [popcorn]
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rotaryaction.com%2Fimages%2Fworldisnote.jpg&hash=3e8e17bb595416101f199f10047a96b8d24ed391) (http://www.rotaryaction.com/pages/twine99.html)
just remember to watch flying blades. :O
I know an instructor who used to teach people to fly helos with chainsaws...
Damnedest thing I've ever seen...
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Wow, this is interesting:
Facts and figures about chainsaw injuries:
- According to the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission there were over 28,500 chain saw injuries in 1999. More than 36% were injuries to the legs and knees.
- The average chainsaw injury requires 110 stitches and the average medical cost was $ 5,600.00 in 1989. Data according to The Davis Garvin Agency, an insurance underwriter specializing in loggers insurance. In year 2000 corresponding costs can be estimated to be over $12,000.00.
- Medical costs for chainsaw injuries based on these facts amount to about 350 million dollars per year.
- Workman's compensation costs, based on the assumption that four weeks recovery is required, can be estimated at 125 million dollars annually.
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Here's an interesting question:
Does the addition of ethanol in gasoline in the recent years have any impact on 2-cycle equipment?
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Here's an interesting question:
Does the addition of ethanol in gasoline in the recent years have any impact on 2-cycle equipment?
YES. Pain in the ass....
We've had more issues from storage/long term use than from performance. It gums up the works faster, and we've been rebuilding carbs and replacing more fuel filters (and those little weighted fuel filters are EXPENSIVE at the local stores).
So far, we find that draining and flushing the system before putting equipment up for long term storage works, and we've been buying ethanol free fuel for mixing lately.
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Does the addition of ethanol in gasoline in the recent years have any impact on 2-cycle equipment?
Again, YES. Motorcycles too. It used to be, you bought race gas if you were serious, and used pump gas if you were a weekend warrior. Nowadays, with ethanol in the fuel, buying race gas is looking better and better. For the small amount that chainsaws use, you might want to look into it. A gallon of premix lasts nearly a whole winter anyway. Also using a metal can helps.
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Actually... does anyone have any good resources for safely operating a chainsaw?
Basic chainsaw safety summary:
- Don't cut yourself
- Don't burn yourself on the exhaust
- Don't drop a tree on yourself
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Actually... does anyone have any good resources for safely operating a chainsaw?
I received some good basic instruction from my dad, but would like to learn more. Build some good habits early on...
Seems like lots of homeowner types get injured by chainsaws every year. =|
BC Foresty Dept used to publish a logging safety book. I should still have one around here somewhere. But it was more about falling and bucking practices, spring poles, etc.
I started out bucking up saw logs in a mill yard with a huge ancient Homelite. Then I went to work for another guy one winter that had me following him around and de-limbing trees that he fell.
I've never really hurt myself with a saw, except for one time I was walking a big fir and stumbled, jabbing the extra long bucking spike into my knee. It swelled up like a balloon for a couple days and I almost thought about going to a doctor, before it got better as most things do. I did get banged on the head pretty good one time while falling in a heavy snowstorm. There was a broken top hanging up there among the thick branches. If I had been working for myself then like in the good old days, I would have just gone home that day instead of working in conditions where you couldn't see well. :(
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here are a couple of links that seemed helpfull. they each have a number of links.
http://forestry.about.com/cs/chainsaws/a/best_first_saw.htm
http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/ss/fell_tree.htm
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Thanks guys.
I picked up a new chain for my saw today... a rivet in the old one was starting to come apart. :O
Holy hell, I forgot how well a sharp, well maintained blade cuts! :O
It felt like there wasn't even anything there, even though the saw was slicing through a 6 inch branch. =D
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Thanks guys.
I picked up a new chain for my saw today... a rivet in the old one was starting to come apart. :O
Holy hell, I forgot how well a sharp, well maintained blade cuts! :O
It felt like there wasn't even anything there, even though the saw was slicing through a 6 inch branch. =D
If you need anything else for your saw check with Merriam Hardware. I think they are about 56th or 57th and Merriam Lane. They were my goto place for things like that when I was up in your area.
Back to the OP.
Cutting a cord of wood a year and running a mill are two completly different things. Chose one.
Then decide if your going to take care of the blade, bar and fuel. If you will get a good one. If not buy a cheap one.
I hate to see someone ruin a good saw.
jim
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Thanks guys.
I picked up a new chain for my saw today... a rivet in the old one was starting to come apart. :O
Holy hell, I forgot how well a sharp, well maintained blade cuts! :O
It felt like there wasn't even anything there, even though the saw was slicing through a 6 inch branch. =D
I've got one of those little "pocket" anvil and punch sets to drive out rivets. Just use a ball peen hammer to put them back in. Not pretty but it works just fine to make up chains off a roll or take out links when the chain stretches. You do need a solid surface to work on, though.
If you get the proper size round file and touch up that chain every tank or two/three, you can keep that chain sharp. Mostly you just follow the existing contour (working from the inside out and do all the teeth on one side and then do the other). But if you get the saw chain teeth all tore up, then you're never going to get them back in shape with a hand file unless you are really experienced.
The other thing is that you need to change the drive sprocket every second chain or so. The problem with that is all the consumer saws come with the "spur" sprocket that is integral with the clutch drum so you have to replace the whole thing. All my saws always have the "floating rim" type drive sprockets where you can just replace the splined gear at about 1/3 the cost. I usually buy a half dozen or so at a time from Baileys.
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Interesting, thanks for the info. =)
I'll have to pick up a file for this chain size when I have some spare cash. Like anything else, a bit of care and maintenance usually pays off big time in the long run.
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Interesting, thanks for the info. =)
I'll have to pick up a file for this chain size when I have some spare cash. Like anything else, a bit of care and maintenance usually pays off big time in the long run.
Round files are only about a dollar and change bought at the store (I used to get them for something like $10/dozen).
Maybe spring another fifty cents for a wood or plastic handle to stab on the tang.
Just follow the existing angle of the new teeth, two or three strokes each. You'll get the hang of it. ;)
Actually, I've found most chains cut better after the first sharpening than they do from the factory ;/
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Kind of a silly question, but how do I know which file I need?
I seem to recall I need a 5/32 for my saw, but I'm not sure where I'm remembering that from? ???
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Kind of a silly question, but how do I know which file I need?
I seem to recall I need a 5/32 for my saw, but I'm not sure where I'm remembering that from? ???
Did the chain come in a box/package? It should say which file to use.
Otherwise, ask at the store where you bought the chain.
I do have an Oregon applications book that is about 10 years old. If you tell me the chain pitch then I can look it up.
My 3/8" (.375) pitch chain uses 7/32" file IIRC, so 5/32" for a smaller chain sounds about right.