Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: 280plus on April 29, 2011, 08:32:41 AM
-
I'm looking for a wireless way to remotely operate a relay. I want to close contacts at one location and have another set of contacts close say ~100 ft away as a result without all the pesky wires in between. Waddaya got?
=D
-
Disclaimer for the ATF, FBI CIA, NCIS and whoever the hell else is reading this. It's not for a bomb nor does itt involve det cord, duct tape or bacon. Unfortunately. :angel:
-
The "master" contacts would be operated automatically by a thermostat. So a garage door opener manual remote type deal is not what I'm looking for. Unless I can rig a thermostatically controlled electromagnetic plunger to operate the remote. [tinfoil]
:laugh:
-
Thermostat wire isn't THAT expensive, you cheap skate!
-
Cell phone operated?
:lol: It's not for a bomb nor does itt involve det cord, duct tape or bacon.
Never would have suspected it, except for the bacon/detcord/duct tape part. :laugh:
-
Garage door opener.
On "master" side take apart remote and wire the NO side of the relay where the button goes. Thermistat operates relay, contacts close, same as pushing button, and radio signal is sent.
On "slave" side take apart opener, and find the power leads to the motor. Wire relay in there. Radio signal is recieved, brain feeds power to where motor used to be, relay is closed.
* I haven't taken apart a door opener, but I suspect the "slave" relay is already there, as I'd bet that they don't run the motor operating current through whatever PCB controls the radio.
** You'll have to fiddle with the limit switches to get it to shut off in a way appropriate to your application.
-
Thermostat wire isn't THAT expensive, you cheap skate!
It is when you have to traverse outside ~100 ft underground. I actually ended up burying this outdoor grade heavy duty #14-2 extension cord that provenance dropped into my lap to take care of the situation but I just got to thinking about it again so I thought I'd toss it out there and save whatever might come back for future reference. The HVAC people (Honeywell) have wireles tstats that will send to one location only. I need to actuate in two very separate locations simultaneously.
-
Garage door opener.
On "master" side take apart remote and wire the NO side of the relay where the button goes. Thermistat operates relay, contacts close, same as pushing button, and radio signal is sent.
On "slave" side take apart opener, and find the power leads to the motor. Wire relay in there. Radio signal is recieved, brain feeds power to where motor used to be, relay is closed.
* I haven't taken apart a door opener, but I suspect the "slave" relay is already there, as I'd bet that they don't run the motor operating current through whatever PCB controls the radio.
** You'll have to fiddle with the limit switches to get it to shut off in a way appropriate to your application.
I think we have a winnah! I like it. Very simple. BUT I'm still open to other ideas. If I could find a device specifically designed to do what I'm asking I would prefer that over a retro on a door opener. Hmmm, either way maybe I can dig all that beautiful cable back up! I didn't bury it that deep. >:D
:lol:
-
http://www.insteon.net/
http://www.insteon.net/2456S3E-appliancelince-outdoor-module.html
-
remotely fire up a 240 arc welder:
http://www.insteon.net/2477SA1-load-controller-NO.html
-
Is "using the Force" an option? How about a photocell activated by a laser? Hiring small children to push buttons for you?
-
these storms have me to rattled to make a real suggestion.
so, i'll just say. have you seen this thing? [popcorn] (http://www.thinkgeek.com/homeoffice/lights/bb52/)
................"x10", "lutron" are words you might want to think about.
lutron (http://www.lutron.com/Products/SingleRoomControls/SpacerSystem/Pages/Overview.aspx) in particular if this is for a light.
-
Arduino XBee.
You'll be able to send serial or digital motor commands wirelessly between two microcontrollers.
Probably a lot cheaper than a garage door opener system, and more flexible.
Just wire up solenoids to close your circuits at either end upon the push of a button or a thermostat sensor activation.
Controller 1 listens for "button push" or it polls a thermostat sensor for a temperature value and closes solenoids locally when activated, and sends a command to Controller 2 via the XBee.
Controller 2 listens for radio traffic on the other XBee, and closes solenoids when it detects valid radio traffic.
-
have you seen this thing? [popcorn] (http://www.thinkgeek.com/homeoffice/lights/bb52/)
We have one of those. It cost $10 though. It comes with two-sided foam tape and a screw-to-the-wall holster
-
Is this an application where a wireless LAN compatible thermostat would be useful?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202352449&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d26-_-plumbing-_-superfeature-_-thermostats_img (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202352449&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d26-_-plumbing-_-superfeature-_-thermostats_img)
DD
-
A friend of mine works for Ecobee. From what I can understand of what he does, they are thermostats that are "web-based" you run them from the interwebertubez.
http://www.ecobee.com/
Might be easier then wiring a remote detonator garage door opener.
-
Installing a light-switch often requires pulling wires, cutting drywall, tripping breakers, and soothing electrical burns.
I think I'll be staying away from light switches now... :lol:
Switch/no good - WIFI T'stat interesting but still not fit the bill - Ecobee / also interesting but same same, not fit bill. The door opener rig job is close BUT I wonder if the closing of the master contacts can be continous or does it need to be a momentary close then release. I wonder if continous closing of the remote switch will cause the slave switch to cycle. Guess I just hold the button down on the det...uhh, door opener remote and see wha happen. [tinfoil]
-
Zardozimo Oprah Bannedalas:
"How about a photocell activated by a laser?"
I bought a couple of motion detectors for yard lights for about $10 each from Ace Hardware a couple of years ago, just to play with.
Shouldn't be hard to mount one set to max sensitivity and with a field of view constrictor on it pointing to where your control point is. You could use a light-bulb-socket-to line-plug adaptor where the yard lights screw in to control your stuff --110 on and off.
Or you could dissect it and rewire it directly. I seem to recall that they do click slightly when they go on and off, so they've probably got real live 110V contact relays in it.
You could probably control it with a flashlight if you wanted to. Or a laser pen. Or the Crimson Trace on your sidearm. :)
Dunno what they'd cost nowadays, but give them a call
EDITED TO ADD: Just dug one out of my project closet and it's their stock number ACE 3038320. The box says it's got a 60 foot range, but that's just for ambient IR illumination. I betcha you could turn it on from a mile away with a flashlight.
Or your sidearm.
Anyway, it looks like for $10 + inflation, you'd have all the parts you'd need, or you could 'gin up a system with it as-is.
Terry, 230RN
-
I missed the photocell part when I read that post cause I was too busy laughing about using "the Force". Hmmmmm,,,,what if if's foggy? =D
Keep i mind, I don't want to poke holes in all these ideas but I have to because better to do it now on "paper" than install it and have it not work for one silly reason or another.
Another question about door opener remote. If I close the contacts in the remote and leave them closed, will that run down the battery?
If stupid Honeywell would set their T'stat up so it would actuate more than one receiver I'd be in good shape. Trouble is, I'm the kind of guy who is the only one on the whole planet with this particular application and they're not about to do a bunch of R&D just for li'l ol' me. =|
It's tough to be a pioneer. :lol:
-
Another question about door opener remote. If I close the contacts in the remote and leave them closed, will that run down the battery?
Again FTR I just brainstormed that, I don't actually have one in front of me. But: If I was doing the engineering I would look for the low voltage in the T-stat, or obtain a transformer (maybe an old cell phone charger? would have to look at some stickers) to run the remote. I would imagine that yes, if it's set to transmit continuously that the OG batt would be run down quickly.
-
How 'bout a scoped .22LR interfacing with a metal spinner which activates a cat whisker limit switch wired to a Potter Brummfield low inrush relay.
-
Now we're getting somewhere! ;)