Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: cassandra and sara's daddy on November 25, 2011, 05:11:10 PM
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(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg855.imageshack.us%2Fimg855%2F2442%2Fbrakerotor.th.jpg&hash=b4cd987b5fbe0772aafba422bda142e3df662d84) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/brakerotor.jpg/)
think i can save this rotor? week old brake job fail
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600 grit sandpaper is worth trying. If there is any pulsing or pulling to one side afterward, I'd replace them.
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Look closer.
Chris
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Is the disk separated from the hub? Take it back (manufacturer's defect.) If that's just an illusion and the problem is just rust, don't worry about it.
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the disk is now 2 pieces and it was mechanic fail. ironically i usually do em myself. this time i was having a wheel bearing replaced and got them to do brakes. there is a thin metal plate behind the pad and it slipped down and cut through the rotor like it was on a lathe. part fault is mine i heard noise ignored it didn't think it was bad. i was mistaken gonna see em monday. hada fix it myself they were closed for holiday/deer camp
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Yeah, OK, never mind. New rotors.
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i never thought that lil thin sheet metal could cut that rotor like that
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I suppose that it would stop better if the disk was connected to the hub =|
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Some JB Weld and silver spray paint will make that rotor like new. :P
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Is this on your Cherokee? If so -- what year? Chrysler "improved" the brakes when they bought Jeep from AMC. One of the consequences was rotors on which the disk liked to become disassociated from the "hat." There was a massive recall to fix the problem, covering from either 1990 or 1991 up to around 1999. It technically applied to the "rust belt" states -- I don't know in VA was included but it wouldn't hurt to ask.
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this was the crv and it made some funny noises when it happened the the loose part got pinned in a good position by the caliper
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Some JB Weld and silver spray paint will make that rotor like new. :P
Don't forget the duct tape.
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Don't forget the duct tape.
J-B Weld for the win.
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Take it back to where you had the brake job and bitch. If you did it, just buy another rotor and be done with it......chris3
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they open on monday its going back. i already put a new rotor on myself
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J-B Weld for the win.
I J-B welded my emergency break release handle back on the other day. Holds like a champ.
Unfortunately, I put it back on upside down. :facepalm:
Remember: Just like diamonds, J-B Weld is FOREVER.
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Nothing a good bead from the mig welder won't fix.
I had something happen similar to a friends car I was fixing. The rear had drum breaks, the little adjuster thing that goes between the pads dropped down and cut right through the hub. Must have took me a good 20 minuets looking at trying to figure out what that loose piece was.
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Must be brake manufacturers usin lower quality steel or something over the last few years.
I had large holes rusted all the way through one of my rotors on my Trailblazer a few years ago.
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You can still get good rotors but you have to pay for 'em. I had terrrible problem with rotors warping on the Vic, having turned them twice in just under 80k. THey'd be fine for a few months, but invariably started p-p-p-p-pulsing and eventually returned to insanely annoying in under 5k of driving.
I got well and truly tired of dealing with it and popped for some Raybestos Uber Super Premium Ultra Best-est rotors (can't remember the exact line, but it was their higher-end Made In North America line). They were almost $100 each vs the $35 generic replacements, but worth every penny. Problem gone. Completely. Almost 30k on them without a single issue and very little in the way of wear. If it weren't for a geriatric who stubbornly refused to stop operating a motor vehicle despite significant physical and visual impairment plus being on mutiple "do not drive or operate machinery" scrips I'd still be driving the Vic today and am confident the rotors would be just fine.
The truck is doing the same damn thing. Only with late model 2wd F-150 trucks the front hub and rotor are a single assembly and they are a mere $275. Each. Luckily a company called Centric has a conversion kit that allows use of the removeable rotors from the 4wd F-150. (I'd like to meet the dumb SOB who called that shot - "Oh, let's put an expensive piece of crap single piece rotor assembly on the 2wd and a relatively easy-to-replace two piece design on the 4wd). Best of all the kit, all new hub and a premium rotor, are about 2/3 the price of the factory replacement assembly. In addition they are, by all accounts, far superior in both performance and longevity. Best of all, for future servicing you can get a premium replacement rotor for $60-80 vs a standard (read: gonna warp next week) replacement hub/rotor assembly for $275.
Brad
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I never turn rotors. I don't care if they are rough -- that's just more surface area for the pads to work against. Rusty? No problem. If you turn them, they will warp because 1) they are thinner and therefore weaker, 2) they have less mass to soak up the heat. If they warp anyway without having been turned, I put up with it for a while and then replace them. (Generally I put up with it until the pads need replacing unless it's my wife's car.)
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I never turn rotors. I don't care if they are rough -- that's just more surface area for the pads to work against. Rusty? No problem. If you turn them, they will warp because 1) they are thinner and therefore weaker, 2) they have less mass to soak up the heat. If they warp anyway without having been turned, I put up with it for a while and then replace them. (Generally I put up with it until the pads need replacing unless it's my wife's car.)
I think shops "insist" on turning drums/rotors because:
a) more money
b) cover liablity - they did "everything"
c) customer can't come back and complain about noise or vibration
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a company called Centric
There is a parts house nearby the sells that brand. I have had there stuff on my f250 and the mazda tribute for a while and everything is still good.