Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: AZRedhawk44 on August 24, 2012, 07:09:15 PM
-
I picked up a 92A1 a few weeks ago.
I used to own a 92, and loved it. Accurate, awesome trigger reset.
This one... the groups are pretty far to the right. To get them centered where POA=POI, the rear sight has to be so far to the left that the sight picture and grip is no longer intuitive.
Investigating what is causing this, I think the culprit is the locking block under the barrel.
There's a lot of air-gap on the left side of the barrel out at the front end of the slide, and almost no air-gap on the right side. Like the barrel naturally points half a degree to a degree to the right when riding in the assembled gun.
Is it possible to adjust the locking block lug surfaces? I think if I took a couple thousandths off the front face of the right lug face, it would cant the barrel just a skosh more to the left. But I don't know if this is the intended method of adjusting engagement/alignment.
I'm toying with ordering a replacement locking block and mounting the barrel to the replacement, leaving the original intact, and seeing if adjustment is necessary and then adjusting that replacement block.
-
You might also want to contact Beretta and see what they say about it.
-
You might also want to contact Beretta and see what they say about it.
This, first. Also I wouldn't recommend just taking a file to the locking lugs. You very much could end up moving the headspace out of spec, and that is always bad ju-ju. There's quite a few other things that come to mind, so again, I strongly recommend against getting file happy.
-
It's a private party purchase, so Beretta isn't likely to help.
-
It's a private party purchase, so Beretta isn't likely to help.
Why wouldn't they? It's their product, they should offer service, answer questions, etc., regardless whether you are the original owner. Granted, it won't be under warranty, but they should be happy to help anyway.
-
It's a private party purchase, so Beretta isn't likely to help.
Kahr replaced, for free, my private party purchase after not being able to make it run properly.
S&W fixed my private party purchase free of charge (had to pay shipping to them).
Send it to Beretta.
Chris
-
Ditto. Beretta would rather warranty service that pistol than have to defend against a frivolous lawsuit.....not that you'd sue, but someone else might.
-
Beretta's warranty is 1 year, so its likely out of warranty anyway.
It needs to be fixed. Who better to fix it, than the manufacturer itself? The worst that can do is charge for doing it.
-
Hey, could you take some detailed high res pics of the barrel/slide/locking system? I'm wondering if you might be able to fix this problem pretty cheaply (as compared to footing the bill to send it in to the Beretta gunshop) by just swapping out the old locking lug for a new drop in replacement.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27931/Product/LOCKING-BLOCK-92FS-USE-WITH
Hopefully it's not the cuts in the slide that are "off". If you have a set of dial calipers or a micrometer I can probably dig up the blueprints for the slide somewhere so you can check it your self.
-
Yep, I've got a micrometer.
What should I be measuring? The locking lug width, or the width of the locking lug channels in the slide?
A replacement block is going to be cheaper than shipping this thing anywhere. Is it standard assembly or armorer procedure (you former service guys) for locking blocks to be individually fitted to particular barrels and slides for peak accuracy? I imagine that POA/POI must wander a bit when randomly assembling different barrels/blocks into the same slide.
There's got to be someone here who is a Distinguished Pistol shot that accomplished it with an M9 rather than a 1911, or M9 armorer.
-
First, check both the locking lugs and their slots to see if they are parallel with each other and also if their widths match (left slot/right slot, left lug/right lug). When I get home from work I can go digging for the blueprints.
-
Send it back to beretta. I have a 92a1 and an m9 a1. Both are tack drivers