Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Northwoods on November 06, 2013, 06:32:38 PM
-
Best to get stainless steel and synthetic/polymer furnature, or are there coatings that are more effective that blueing? Use would be hunting salt marshes/tidal flats.
-
Oh yeah, meant to put this in RT. Mods please move it.
-
Moved as requested, though gun coating discussions can get pretty heated - might have to go back to politics later. =D
-
I'm going to have my Benelli SBE Duracoated after hunting season. Lots on my friends love that product.
-
You could also use the old duck hunters friend, Johnson Floor wax on the metal of the firearm.
I waterfowl hunt and I hunt in the rain, I just clean my firearm thoroughly after the hunt, haven't had any problems yet.
-
There are many coatings that are better than blueing at protecting the metal. Glock's Tennifer finish is one. Parkerizing is another. All of the modern coatings such as Durocoat and RoBar are better. Hell, I'd bet Rustoleum is better than plain blueing.
-
You could also use the old duck hunters friend, Johnson Floor wax on the metal of the firearm.
I waterfowl hunt and I hunt in the rain, I just clean my firearm thoroughly after the hunt, haven't had any problems yet.
FIFY.
Never, ever let out the old secrets, or else they will no longer be old secrets.
(Floor wax - the stuff you pour out of a bottle - is good, but IMHO paste wax is moar betterer. YMMV)
stay safe.
-
You could also use the old duck hunters friend, Johnson Floor wax on the metal of the firearm.
I waterfowl hunt and I hunt in the rain, I just clean my firearm thoroughly after the hunt, haven't had any problems yet.
That worked fine, until hunting in salt marshes. Rust was showing up beofre I could even get back to camp.
-
Most of my hunting and social rifles, as well as handguns, are both parkerized and blued in two separate immersion processes.
It's a trick I learned from my late gun and knifesmith mentor. It produces a very dark and durable finish.
-
Most of my hunting and social rifles, as well as handguns, are both parkerized and blued in two separate immersion processes.
It's a trick I learned from my late gun and knifesmith mentor. It produces a very dark and durable finish.
Are you DIYing this? If so, park, then blue? Very interesting.
If I could get long guns with the Glock surface treatment all of them would have it.
-
Are you DIYing this? If so, park, then blue? Very interesting.
If I could get long guns with the Glock surface treatment all of them would have it.
You can do it aftermarket.
-
You can do it aftermarket.
That's true. Custom one-off nitrocarburizing of AR parts for people doing high end builds is becoming a "thing".
That on top of a bead-blast finish for "grab" to go with properly done Duracoat or Cerakote is probably going to be about as corrosion resistant as it gets, aside from maybe hard chrome, or grades of stainless that aren't suited to firearms applications anyway.
-
I love hard chrome but the timeline on me setting up to do that is a bit longer than getting up to hot blue or park. As a guy heading out the door to go work with stainless for 10 hours, F! stainless. Not really much use for it in a gun or a knife.
-
Since it's my own thread, I don't mind the necromancy.
Any of you used, or know of folks that have, WMD Guns for nitrocarburizing? I think I've settled on that as what I want to do with my hunting guns. The dry bag I used this year was certainly a ton better than the garbage bags from last year, but I'd still like better overall protection.
If you don't know of anyone with experience with WMD Guns, do you know of anyone that does nitrocarburizing for individual gun owners (as opposed to OEM's)?