Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: vaskidmark on November 28, 2013, 08:43:08 AM
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While the current TV set receives well, it does not receive HD. (No kidding - I'm pretty sure HD was not around in 1995.)
I'm about to upgrade my cable service and for some things it looks like a HD TV would be necessary/better. Knowing nothing about what I am about to do except that it will involve spending money, I could use some guidance.
LCD, LED, or plasma?
Specific technical jargon I should tell the salesperson? ("Take my money" is not technical jargon.)
What could I do on my TV if I added wifi service? (And is there any other way to hook my tv into the internet via existing tv/phone/internet cable service?)
I'm looking for something that sits on a flat piece of furniture, not hangs on a wall. The current set is 27" diagonal - what improvements will I get (besides a bigger picture) by going bigger? The room is well lit from up-directed lighting (directed up into a corner where it bounces to fill the room). That will not be changed.
What do I need to know that I have not mentioned?
Brands that I should stay away from? Brands that I should give preference to?
And remember that I do not speak the language, so keep things down to maybe three syllables, OK?
stay safe.
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i believe that your tv would still work, but it wont have the same picture quality as an hd. how big are you going? ours is a vizeo 32inch led with 720p and 60 hz refresh rate and it has a great picture. my biggest complaint is that it takes a while to turn on (seems like a full minute). i thought that might be because of the "smart" function booting up, but others can do it more quickly. there are other devices that can connect you to the internet down the road. blue ray players, wi, xbox, etc all have wifi if you choose a standard tv.
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Avoid plasma....it's the BetaMax of the 21st Century....
Leave now so you can get in line at your local commercial retailer for the Black Friday/Brown Thursday Over-Hyped Deal Of The Half-Hour. Bring brass knuckles.
....and remember the true meaning of the holiday season!
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Go with LED. Samsung rocks, but Vizio seems to be a great bang for the buck. Most newer TVs come with an ethernet port so you can plug a network cable into them. I don't, I just use a Roku box. Newer ones will come with a "Roku-like" feature so you can stream the Amazon, Netflix, Hulu, etc. (as long as they have an Internet connection).
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Go with LED. Samsung rocks, but Vizio seems to be a great bang for the buck. Most newer TVs come with an ethernet port so you can plug a network cable into them. I don't, I just use a Roku box. Newer ones will come with a "Roku-like" feature so you can stream the Amazon, Netflix, Hulu, etc. (as long as they have an Internet connection).
This. Wireless in the tv is even better. 4K TVs are starting to come out, but I don't think they will be at the price point you are looking for. 4K is the successor to HD.
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http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-LC-90LE745-90-inch-1080p-120Hz/dp/B008G0IKSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385650446&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-LC-90LE745-90-inch-1080p-120Hz/dp/B008G0IKSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385650446&sr=8-1)
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I'm seeing quality 42-45" inch sets in the sub 500 range now, so you will have a good selection.
I'll ditto LED, and with at least 120 Hz refresh rate. Make sure it has enough of the input types you need to hook up existing accessories. This can be a real hassle with newer sets if you have a bunch of standard def stuff hanging off your old set.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about getting in-set functionality for things like Netflix and web browsing. I haven't seen an app yet that was worth a darn. At best they are usually clunky and painfully slow. My advice is to get a good television and leave the web and app functionality to dedicated boxes. I use my xBox for pretty much all that kind of stuff and it works about a jillion times better than the apps in my TV and Blu-Ray player.
Don't forget to hit the clearance shelves at your local big box stores. Open-box specials can be your friend.
Brad
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What is x-box? What is roku? Netflix offers stuff that does not come on discs in the mail?
I've got a cable coming out of the wall. It brings phone & internet & tv. If I want wifi I have to go out of the house and nurse a small drink while sucking up someone's free wifi, or go to the library and cuss at all the kids there.
If I get a LED tv screen and some sort of box, will it make wifi happen? (Elves and magic smoke are OK.)
stay safe.
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Cyber-Monday.
You're on the east coast. Stay up until midnight on Sunday, and log on to NewEgg or Amazon and see what's available for their cyber-Monday specials.
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What is x-box? What is roku? Netflix offers stuff that does not come on discs in the mail?
I've got a cable coming out of the wall. It brings phone & internet & tv. If I want wifi I have to go out of the house and nurse a small drink while sucking up someone's free wifi, or go to the library and cuss at all the kids there.
If I get a LED tv screen and some sort of box, will it make wifi happen? (Elves and magic smoke are OK.)
stay safe.
typically the wifi will come from your routerish thingy that the cable goes into and the Ethernet cable (magic smoke hose) comes out of. if there is an antenna on the back of it you likely have wifi broadcasting at home, otherwise the smart TV's and other wifi accessories will not have anything to receive and will be worthless. if you are happy with your 27" set, I would recommend getting one with the same height screen, but it will be larger due to the widescreen format. likely a 32" would fit the bill.
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OK, so I need a new router that makes wifi, and then figure out how to connect the ethernet cable to whatever. Right now what looks like an ethernet cable coming out of the router I have is stuck into the back of my desktop, Probably ought to get a router with an antenna, cause the large elf box o' wires is in one room (where the router is) and the tv in another room. There is another cable coming out of the wall where the tv is.
Besides all this, what else does it sound like I need? (Please do not list technical wherewithall, cause that's just not gonna happen.)
And - is it OK if everything flashes "12:00"?
stay safe.
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You need a turbo encabulator. Make sure the TV has lots and lots of Pixels (those would appear to be the magic elves that let you see the zits on the faces of your favorite actors/actresses) Then there are HDMI Those let the magic elves in the DVD/VCR player into the TV.
The TV itself should be large 60 or 72 inches, if not bigger. That will make it big enough for everyone in the apartment complex to watch what you are watching. Because you are a kind and generous soul.
Go to the local computer or electronics store like Fry's (not Wal-mart or Best Buy) they will be willing to teach you all kinds of techie terms that will enable you to come here and give advice to our computer nerds and geeks.
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Look at the TV carefully, with some LED TV's, a fast motion picture with any sort of geometric background will result in a pixelated effect- one reason a lot of gamers and sports people seemed to prefer plasma. this effect is very noticeable with my year old Panasonic LED TV. Maybe it is better controlled nowadays, I don't know.
Also, were I to do this again, I would not buy a "smart TV", I would use an old computer box , connect it to the house wi fi, and run the tv off that.And use a remote keyboard to connect to the computer. Also the non smart TV will not spy on you and report to the NSA.
A smart tv is one that has a computer built in to hook up to the internet. But the interface on mine is clumsy, and will not accept a standard keyboard input, which makes it a hassle to do things like search you tube .
There are a host of options for movies etc on the web, netflix has a streaming service, but the offerings are mostly second tier- amazon has streaming on a pay per view basis, there are a lot of others- i am also a luddite wanna be.
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Do you not have any real friends in meat-space? They might know of such alchemy and sorcery as would be useful to you.
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va - it'll be a little hard to give virtual help without more info on your setup and more knowledge of your own abilities with computer stuff (there's Luddite, then there's Luddite).
From what you've described so far, it seems to me you are currently in one of two situations: You either have a cable or DSL modem that your provider provided, and your computer is plugged into that, or else you have the modem, plus either a wired or wireless router, and your computer is plugged into the router.
No matter what you decide to do, you will likely need a router if you don't have one. I haven't shopped for a basic router in a long time, so don't know what the good ones are these days - someone else can jump in with that. You will need to setup the new router when you get it. Generally they will just plug into your cable modem, then you plug your computer into the router and type 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 (the router manual will tell you) into a web browser. This brings up the router configuration menu, where the first thing you want to do is setup a new administrator password, and if a wireless router, turn on wireless security and set a password to login to wireless so the 14 year old kid next door doesn't get in and watch porn.
If you go smart TV and want to do wireless, you will follow your TV's menu directions for adding a wireless connection, adding your wireless and inputting your wireless password (which you set above). You will then be able to do all the Netflix, etc. from your TV. If you choose to go to a Roku or similar box, you will set that up in a similar way using its menu. Personally, since my Roku and router are right next to my TV, I prefer to go wired with the Roku for the added security, even though it has wireless capabilities. It is set up by plugging a network cable from it into the router, and then an HDMI cable from it into the TV.
Again, the above is just general based on what I know, or more accurately, don't know, about your ISP connection. Also, the above was typed after consuming a pint of Apple Pie, so CYA, or something like that. :laugh:
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Maybe you should just go to Blockbuster and rent videotapes instead....
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Maybe you should just go to Blockbuster and rent videotapes instead....
Been doing that. Problem is I've been through the entire selection of Beta-Max at least 3 times. Getting boring,
stay safe.
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While the current TV set receives well, it does not receive HD. (No kidding - I'm pretty sure HD was not around in 1995.
Without reading other remarks:
Plasma is on it's way out; while you may be able to pick one up for a song, be sure to check it's energy efficiency. They got a reputation for being energy hogs for a reason, but not all are. Still, the reputation for that and burn-in killed the market, the last major maker is getting out of the business now.
LED is actually LCD with LED backlighting, as opposed to CCFL(a specialized type of flourescent light). It allows LED TVs to be thinner and even more energy efficient.
If you're putting it on furniture, I'd take a look at what said furniture can handle. How wide is it? How much overhang can you stand? How far away do you sit from the TV? The benefit to a larger TV is that you can still make out the additional detail from further away. Apple has branded 'higher than average human acuity' as 'retina display'. Much like MOA, humans are restricted to about 1 minute of arc (1/60th of a degree). So as the resolution goes up, the closer you have to sit to see it. SDTV is 480, HDTV is 720 or 1080. Each step has 50% lines of resolution(and 2.25 times as many dots/pixels) than the one before it.
Translation(after some trig to convert 4:3 to 16:9): Whatever distance your 27" screen is at, you'll need a ~50" TV to keep the pixel sizes the same at 720, 75" for a 1080. I'll note that at 'Standard Definition' a 33" screen will give you the same height as your old TV. If you already sit too far away to see all the detail(will moving closer to the set let you see more detail right now?), you won't see all the detail at my quoted sizes. If you sit close enough, the bigger screens will indeed let you see every bit. Buying a higher resolution screen now generally doesn't cost more, and if you can't see the detail, oh well. If you want you can always move closer, which isn't an option if you didn't buy the higher resolution in the first place.
Another reason to go bigger is that bigger screens moves the 'optimal' viewing distance further from the screen, allowing more people to see it.
Technical Jargon? I'd look for a 1080 capable set(with 4k types coming out it's no longer anything near cutting edge), Energy Star compliant(easy on your wallet afterwards), and enough inputs for any gizmos you have and/or might obtain in the future(probably not a problem). I'd check the viewing angles of any set you're considering - how far off center can you be and still see a good picture? Some LCD TVs are much better at this than others.
If you get a 'Smart' TV that has network options, that allows you to do things like watch netflix, youtube, and other such 'internet tv' services without additional equipment. In exchange, expect a more complicated remote. In which case what I'd look for is a RJ-45(wired network) connection and wireless-n(latest wifi standard). Some might only support G, but at this point I'd want one that's future-proofed in case I replace my router.
As for getting the wifi to it, you'd need a wireless router. Let me know if you don't have one. It's either that or if you get your internet via cable, you might be able to just run a network cable to it. Check for open ports(look like fat phone jacks).
As for hanging it off the wall, any set should come with a stand, you need to buy a VESA mount to put it on a wall, though some furniture comes with them today; I like the mount because it means your TV is NOT tipping over.
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^^^^^translation of some of the above is that if you get the same size tv with even the lower 720p resolution, and viewed from the same distance, you will have a much sharper image than you had before
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Another suggestion with regard to 720p. Don't. The price difference between 720 and 1080 is negligible, and the pic difference on current gen BluRay and satellite TV services is quite noticeable when you step above the 35-37" sizes.
There is also refresh rate. That is the number of times per second the TV refreshes the screen. The higher the rate, the more crisp and sharp the picture. Go for at least 120 Hz min. It will be temping to pick up a 60 Hz model for the price, but steer clear if you are getting anything above the aforementioned 35-ish inch sizes. 120 will give you a good compromise of performance and price. Also remember to turn off the Motion Smoothing feature when you get your new bauble home or you will immediately notice that movement has a video-esque fakeness to it.
If anything is marked 3D, pass. There is no performance increase when it comes to traditional viewing, so the price increase isn't worth it. You should be able to get a nice 50" class name brand TV for sub-$1000, and I'm seeing several sets on sale in the $750 range. Also, don't be afraid to check your local Big Box stores for open-box and scratch-N-dent specials.
Brad
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One thing to watch out for, or make SURE the sales guy shows you is where the 120hz overscan or frame interpolation settings are in the menu, and how to turn them OFF. (Side note, how 'Fin CRAZY is the future that chips which cost pennies in $500 50" TV's can just "make up" or synthesize intermediate frames on the fly out of 30/60fps 1080 video to turn it into 120, and have it look right?)
It's an incredibly odd effect, and makes movies and TV dramas/sitcoms look "cheap and fake" like they're News/Daytime Soaps/Home Shopping network footage.
OTOH, sports looks AWESOME with it turned up to the max. It would be nice if there was an 'auto' signal in broadcasting that told your TV to turn that feature on or off.
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One thing to watch out for, or make SURE the sales guy shows you is where the 120hz overscan or frame interpolation settings are in the menu, and how to turn them OFF. (Side note, how 'Fin CRAZY is the future that chips which cost pennies in $500 50" TV's can just "make up" or synthesize intermediate frames on the fly out of 30/60fps 1080 video to turn it into 120, and have it look right?)
It's an incredibly odd effect, and makes movies and TV dramas/sitcoms look "cheap and fake" like they're News/Daytime Soaps/Home Shopping network footage.
OTOH, sports looks AWESOME with it turned up to the max. It would be nice if there was an 'auto' signal in broadcasting that told your TV to turn that feature on or off.
That's the motion smoothing setting I mentioned.
Brad
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That's the motion smoothing setting I mentioned.
Brad
LALALALALALALALALALALALALALA.. tl/dr... :P
=D
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Generally speaking, the "mid-point" of the TVs from Sony, Samsung, etc. are the "sweet spot" for best price/performance ratio. Don't be taken in by geegaws like built-in cameras that let you control the TV by waving your hand around.
And when you get your TV, get yourself a calibration DVD so you can set contrast, color, gamma, etc. to reasonable levels rather than the overbright, overdriven setting used in most TV showrooms.
Also . . . decide whether you want a shiny screen or a matte screen. If you can control your TV room lighting, a shiny screen will produce a very slightly sharper image . . . but for 99% of the populace, a slightly matte screen (to diffuse reflections of your room) will give you a better viewing experience.
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And when you get your TV, get yourself a calibration DVD so you can set contrast, color, gamma, etc. to reasonable levels rather than the overbright, overdriven setting used in most TV showrooms.
The last few sets I've helped friend with needed no major tweaking beyond making sure not to select the "Demo mode" setting during setup. This kills the "hyper"color and maximum-overdrive brightness settings you mention. The Samsung sets seem to have the settings pretty well dialed in when it comes to their preset modes (Vivid, Warm, Theater, etc).
Brad
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One thing to watch out for, or make SURE the sales guy shows you is where the 120hz overscan or frame interpolation settings are in the menu, and how to turn them OFF. (Side note, how 'Fin CRAZY is the future that chips which cost pennies in $500 50" TV's can just "make up" or synthesize intermediate frames on the fly out of 30/60fps 1080 video to turn it into 120, and have it look right?)
It's an incredibly odd effect, and makes movies and TV dramas/sitcoms look "cheap and fake" like they're News/Daytime Soaps/Home Shopping network footage.
OTOH, sports looks AWESOME with it turned up to the max. It would be nice if there was an 'auto' signal in broadcasting that told your TV to turn that feature on or off.
i'm not quite following, are you saying 120hz is a waste of time as video is only shot at 60, or just the ditch the smoothing setting?
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Keep the higher refresh rate. Ditch the smoothing. Motion smoothing makes everything look weirdly artificial.
Brad
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Keep the higher refresh rate. Ditch the smoothing. Motion smoothing makes everything look weirdly artificial.
Brad
This. Although it makes sports and news look better... usually. Although if the source material is broadcast in 30/60 fps, and the 120hz refresh rate is just showing the same frame 4 or 2 times, there's really no net difference, although the image might look a bit more "solid". It's when it decides to use the extra frame to simulate it's own picture that's "in between" each time actually creating a net percieved gain in visual information and "smoothness" it gets really, really weird, depending on the programming you're watching.
I'd guess if you just "toughed it out" for a few weeks, or maybe a few months depending on your viewing level, it would look "normal" again.
It's actually weirder to me that our brains have been wired to perceive 24-30fps with "expensive" and "drama/fiction", and higher video-like fps's as being "live", or "local", or "inexpensive production quality".
Although IMAX which I believe has a higher fps projection rate somehow doesn't suffer this. So it's not just that. [tinfoil]