Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: never_retreat on April 13, 2014, 08:22:35 PM
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So the current shed that came with the house is falling apart, besides being to small for all the lawn implements.
I was looking at the pre built sheds out of amish country but I was thinking if it could be more cost effective to build what I want.
Has anyone done the cost comparison? Of bought vs built.
I really don't want t11 siding, so an upgrade for me would be the hardy board stuff.
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Just hire this guy to build it. (http://www.bcsportbikes.com/forum/showthread.php/146566-Build-to-Fail-Fail-to-Build.-What-is-this-I-don-t-even.....)
Apparently the Shed of Doom is still standing ...
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What's "hardy board"? Are you referring to Hardy plank artificial clapboards, or do they make something in 4' x 8' sheets?
This is important because T1-11 is plywood, and it acts as structural sheathing to resist deformation due to both wind and seismic forces. If your plan is to skip the sheathing and install clapboards, you'll need something else to keep the wall panels square and true, because individual board siding can't do that.
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they make hardy in sheets with a t-111 finish smooth or stucco and you can get it up to 4 x12 for sure maybe 4 x16. its truly a challenge to put it on a second floor off a ladder but its great other than that
i have found i can't beat the prebuilts on price.
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Yep its in 4x8 sheet form.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/James-Hardie-5-16-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-HZ5-HardiePanel-Cedarmill-Vertical-Siding-617950/202085299?N=5yc1vZc8af#specifications (http://www.homedepot.com/p/James-Hardie-5-16-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-HZ5-HardiePanel-Cedarmill-Vertical-Siding-617950/202085299?N=5yc1vZc8af#specifications)
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Another thought I had was to build said shed on a trailer frame.
Our town taxes any shed even prefabs if the are bigger that 10x10'. So it definitely could not be considered permanent.
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that's interesting, standard building codes don't require a permit unless the shed is greater than 144 sq ft. imo, the biggest drawback to the prefabs is that they have a floor that you need to drive up on. also, if it's not pressure treated you may got rot later on. as far as cost, i think that materials will cost you nearly the same as the prefab. i might consider it worth my time if i could make it just how i wanted.
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Yep its in 4x8 sheet form.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/James-Hardie-5-16-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-HZ5-HardiePanel-Cedarmill-Vertical-Siding-617950/202085299?N=5yc1vZc8af#specifications (http://www.homedepot.com/p/James-Hardie-5-16-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-HZ5-HardiePanel-Cedarmill-Vertical-Siding-617950/202085299?N=5yc1vZc8af#specifications)
And it's barely over a quarter of an inch in thickness.
Nowhere in the description do I find any reference to this product being suitable as structural sheathing. Since they don't claim that it is suitable, I have to conclude that it isn't. That means you either need a structural plywood (or OSB) sheathing under it, or you need to use strapping or let-in bracing on/in the studs before you apply the siding.
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Simple shed:
Sink 4 4x4 or 6x6 treated posts in the ground; 2 of them taller than the other 2.
Affix adequate headers across the 2 taller and 2 less tall posts.
Set your rafters across these headers. Use hurricane ties.
Use either OSB or 1x4 at 2' intervals across the rafters.
Cover with metal roofing in your choice of color.
Apply horizontal 2x4 stringers at 2' centers to the posts (don't forget to frame in a door).
Apply vertical metal roof for siding.
That's the basics for a dirt floor pole shed. If you're in a fire prone area, you need to put galvinized flashing or something around at ground level to keep flames from getting in under the metal siding.
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And it's barely over a quarter of an inch in thickness.
Nowhere in the description do I find any reference to this product being suitable as structural sheathing. Since they don't claim that it is suitable, I have to conclude that it isn't. That means you either need a structural plywood (or OSB) sheathing under it, or you need to use strapping or let-in bracing on/in the studs before you apply the siding.
per james hardie installation instructions, hardiepanel must be installed over sheathing for a single family home. maybe for sheds you don't need it, but for impact resistance I would think it's a good idea.
http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/hardiepanel-hz5.pdf
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per james hardie installation instructions, hardiepanel must be installed over sheathing for a single family home. maybe for sheds you don't need it, but for impact resistance I would think it's a good idea.
http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/hardiepanel-hz5.pdf
Sheds under 200 s.f. don't require a building permit, but they should still be constructed to minimum code standards. When a big wind blows in, it doesn't know or care if that shed is 199 s.f. or 201 s.f. -- it still blows just as hard against the windward side, and that puts a lot of stress onto the two side walls to resist wracking. Hardiepanel is essentially cement -- it's hard, but brittle. It won't provide much of any strength against wind.
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where does the 200sf figure come from? all the codes i've seen are 144sf, and it appears that never retreat's area has 100sf on their books.
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where does the 200sf figure come from? all the codes i've seen are 144sf, and it appears that never retreat's area has 100sf on their books.
From the 2003, 2009 and 2012 editions of the International Residential Code. (Yes, I checked. I have them in my office, it's my business to know what they say.)
Don't confuse the building code requirement for when you need a building permit with exemptions from zoning setback requirements for small outbuildings. A small shed that doesn't require a building permit still has to meet zoning requirements (unless the jurisdiction exempts small structures.) In most jurisdictions, even if one person wears two or even three hats, there are three independent agencies involved:
Building inspector
Zoning enforcement officer
Tax assessor/Tax collector
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that's bizarre, my 2006 copy of the IRC for one and two family dwellings, under section R105.2 "work exempt from permits" reads, "1. one-story detached accessory structures used as tool and storage sheds...........provided the floor area does not exceed 120 square feet."
i just noticed even that is different than our local code of 144 ft sq (and we are supposed to be running by the IRC). :facepalm:
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Are you looking at the actual International Residential Code, or an edited version adopted by your jurisdiction? My state's version completely removed the exemption for sheds -- of any size. In my state, even a 10 s.f. outbuilding technically requires a building permit.
Of course, the 2006 would have to be the edition I don't have. Lemme see what I can find on-line:
From the ICC web site:
2003: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2003/icod_irc_2003_1_par030.htm?bu=IC-P-2003-000002&bu2=IC-P-2003-000017 200 s.f.
2006: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2006f2/icod_irc_2006f2_1_par030.htm?bu=IC-P-2006-000002&bu2=IC-P-2006-000019 120 s.f. (HEY! How'd that sneak in there?)
2009: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_1_par030.htm?bu=IC-P-2009-000002&bu2=IC-P-2009-000019 Back to 200 s.f.
2012: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_1_par032.htm?bu=IC-P-2012-000002&bu2=IC-P-2012-000019 200 s.f.
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We have a bonafide agricultural purpose exemption here. Quite handy
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Are you looking at the actual International Residential Code, or an edited version adopted by your jurisdiction? My state's version completely removed the exemption for sheds -- of any size. In my state, even a 10 s.f. outbuilding technically requires a building permit.
Of course, the 2006 would have to be the edition I don't have. Lemme see what I can find on-line:
From the ICC web site:
2003: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2003/icod_irc_2003_1_par030.htm?bu=IC-P-2003-000002&bu2=IC-P-2003-000017 200 s.f.
2006: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2006f2/icod_irc_2006f2_1_par030.htm?bu=IC-P-2006-000002&bu2=IC-P-2006-000019 120 s.f. (HEY! How'd that sneak in there?)
2009: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_1_par030.htm?bu=IC-P-2009-000002&bu2=IC-P-2009-000019 Back to 200 s.f.
2012: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_1_par032.htm?bu=IC-P-2012-000002&bu2=IC-P-2012-000019 200 s.f.
this is the 2006 IRC, figures I'd put out the bucks for the one year that was the oddball. :facepalm:
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I stopped at the multipurpose city planning/permitting/licensing/everything building on the way home today. I need a 3' setback from property lines, 6' from the house. I can go up to 200 square feet. There is a provision for not going over 50% of the living area floor space (not a problem with 200 square feet). Height-wise, it must not be taller than the house (split-level, 2-story). I filled out one little form listing the value at $500 for tax purposes, and went to 3 different desks/departments to cover all the particulars.
Bottom line, I need NO permits, plans, or licenses. And I can pour a 3 1/2 slab with no permitting etc. requirements.
=)
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per james hardie installation instructions, hardiepanel must be installed over sheathing for a single family home. maybe for sheds you don't need it, but for impact resistance I would think it's a good idea.
http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/hardiepanel-hz5.pdf
Right from the PDF.
HardiePanel vertical siding can be installed over braced wood or steel studs spaced a maximum of 24" o.c. See general fastening requirements.
I was thinking about something 10x16 or 12x16. So I would be under 200 sq feet.
I'll check with the town about permits. From a prior question I asked I don't think I need building permits per say. More or less a shed permit.
So they can then tax you on it. Also probably for set backs also. Mines only 10' here.
I've had an open permit for over a year for a new electrical service and some finishing of the basement.
Over the winter the town sent a letter because they wanted to start taxing it, I called them up and said I was not done yet.
No real care about the open permit they just wanted the tax money.
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Right from the PDF.
HardiePanel vertical siding can be installed over braced wood or steel studs spaced a maximum of 24" o.c. See general fastening requirements.
Note the "braced" in front of "wood or steel studs." Structural sheathing (plywood or OSB) takes care of the bracing. Leave out structural sheathing and you have to do something else -- old-fashioned, diagonal let-in bracing or diagonal strapping.
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HHAHAHAHAH...
I've been holding back SO HARD on not posting a Shed of Doom reference from that bcsportbikes forum. :rofl: