Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Ben on May 11, 2014, 10:47:28 PM
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I'm looking for a good lubricant for locks, ignitions, etc. - anyplace you can stick a key. Recommendations?
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Lock-EZE
Which is basically powdered graphite.
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Graphite is what I prefer for locks since it doesn't get nasty like a liquid lube. I just use plain ol dry powdered graphite, comes in a tube.
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I was always told to use graphite.
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Definitely graphite for lockworks.
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I'm seeing liquid and dry graphite. Any big difference?
Also, searching for "lock lubricant" in Tools & Home Improvements on Amazon brings up some disturbing search results.
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I'm seeing liquid and dry graphite. Any big difference?
Also, searching for "lock lubricant" in Tools & Home Improvements on Amazon brings up some disturbing search results.
I have always used dry graphite lubricant. Usually comes in a small tube, and kind of "poof's" out when expressed.
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Also, searching for "lock lubricant" in Tools & Home Improvements on Amazon brings up some disturbing search results.
As in ?????
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My first pass on reading the thread title was "What's a Good Love Lubricant".
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As in ?????
A couple of dildos. But no Astroglide. =(
Had to ask, didn't you.
stay safe.
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I'm seeing liquid and dry graphite. Any big difference?
Also, searching for "lock lubricant" in Tools & Home Improvements on Amazon brings up some disturbing search results.
Go with dry. Won't gunk up the works like wet will over time.
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My first pass on reading the thread title was "What's a Good Love Lubricant".
Probably how Amazon read it as well!
Dry graphite it is. Thanks all!
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Either graphite or a teflon lube in an evaporative carrier.
Liquid or powdered graphite really doesn't matter. The liquid is an evaporative carrier, so it goes away really quickly.
If you want to make sure that you get the graphite into the nooks and crannies in your lock, you can mix powdered graphite with some 90% alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) and inject it into the lock with a syringe.
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I'm looking for a good lubricant for locks, ignitions, etc. - anyplace you can stick a key. Recommendations?
Disassemble, apply the moly-based GunKote, bake thoroughly, reassemble.
Or graphite, just not as permanent.
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What's a Good Lock Lubricant?
I read that as "Good Luck Lubricant".
Brings something completely different to mind. >:D
Dyslexia for pun and frofit.
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If you want to make sure that you get the graphite into the nooks and crannies in your lock, you can mix powdered graphite with some 90% alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) and inject it into the lock with a syringe.
That's a great idea, thanks!
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What Mike said. Graphite lube. Wet or dry, because it's the same thing.
Anything that evaporates cleanly will work fine. But mostly I shoot some dry graphite lube into the lock from every opening, gently shaking for about 30 seconds to distribute it throughout the lock, and then bang the lock on a chunk of wood a couple times in case of clumps or whatnot. This has worked well on several hundred locks.
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"Anything that evaporates cleanly will work fine."
Naptha/Zippo fluid is also a good carrier.
"But mostly I shoot some dry graphite lube into the lock from every opening, gently shaking for about 30 seconds to distribute it throughout the lock, and then bang the lock on a chunk of wood a couple times in case of clumps or whatnot."
Not an option for the lock on my mailbox.
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Our Scout trailer and truck are parked outside, so the padlocks are out in the elements. Do you all still recommend a dry lubricant of these locks? I was thinking that something with water displacement properties would be a plus. In the past, a shot or two of WD-40 seemed to work for me...
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Our Scout trailer and truck are parked outside, so the padlocks are out in the elements. Do you all still recommend a dry lubricant of these locks? I was thinking that something with water displacement properties would be a plus. In the past, a shot or two of WD-40 seemed to work for me...
WD 40 will gunk up.
Stick with the dry graphite. We have a bunch of exposed gate locks and other padlocks at work graphite works.
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"Anything that evaporates cleanly will work fine."
Naptha/Zippo fluid is also a good carrier.
"But mostly I shoot some dry graphite lube into the lock from every opening, gently shaking for about 30 seconds to distribute it throughout the lock, and then bang the lock on a chunk of wood a couple times in case of clumps or whatnot."
Not an option for the lock on my mailbox.
Low grade naptha can leave an unpleasant oily residue on stuff. While not bad by itself, said residue seems to attract grit and dirt. Lighter fluid works well, however.
Re your mailbox locks, generally, I unmount the lock before doing maintenance. Only exception is padlocks.
Our Scout trailer and truck are parked outside, so the padlocks are out in the elements. Do you all still recommend a dry lubricant of these locks? I was thinking that something with water displacement properties would be a plus. In the past, a shot or two of WD-40 seemed to work for me...
WD-40 works fine, assuming you're fine with replacing the locks every 5-10 years depending. It will leave oily residue that attracts foreign matter.
You want to use PTFE if you're using an expensive lock or want all weather protection. Graphite will be fine for outdoors, just remember that a little goes a long way. Too much is bad. Compressed air is also your friend for blowing out foreign matter before lube. Dry silicone lubricant works, but I rarely use it. Graphite for most locks, Teflon/PTFE for the top shelf.
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You want to use PTFE if you're using an expensive lock or want all weather protection. Graphite will be fine for outdoors, just remember that a little goes a long way. Too much is bad. Compressed air is also your friend for blowing out foreign matter before lube. Dry silicone lubricant works, but I rarely use it. Graphite for most locks, Teflon/PTFE for the top shelf.
That brings up a question for you then, Sir high end lock expert. One of the locks I need to lube is my front door deadbolt, which is one of these:
https://securitysnobs.com/BiLock-Single-Cylinder-Deadbolt.html
That "dual key" or whatever you call it can get a little stubborn. Not anything I have to force at all, I just notice it kinda sorta sticks a little when pulling in and out and sometimes when turning. PTFE for that one, or is graphite okie doke? What's the deal with PTFE anyways?
Also for anyone, is there any need for caution when lubing the ignition switch on newer vehicles that use the smart keys? The other thing that's a pain in my ass right now is getting the key in the ignition on the new 4Runner, probably just because it's new.
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WD-40 works fine, assuming you're fine with replacing the locks every 5-10 years depending. It will leave oily residue that attracts foreign matter.
This, though on locks that are reasonably easy to field strip, I've soaked them with the DuPont Teflon lube, let it dry, then cycled everything a few times to make sure it doesn't bind up after the carrier evaporates. Whatever the carrier in that stuff is, it's also an excellent solvent for all sorts of grease and crud. I've used it on pistols that had been thoroughly cleaned with Brakleen and was still able to wipe away more carbon with the excess lube.
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I keep seeing it as Glock lube... :)
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That brings up a question for you then, Sir high end lock expert. One of the locks I need to lube is my front door deadbolt, which is one of these:
https://securitysnobs.com/BiLock-Single-Cylinder-Deadbolt.html
That "dual key" or whatever you call it can get a little stubborn. Not anything I have to force at all, I just notice it kinda sorta sticks a little when pulling in and out and sometimes when turning. PTFE for that one, or is graphite okie doke? What's the deal with PTFE anyways?
Also for anyone, is there any need for caution when lubing the ignition switch on newer vehicles that use the smart keys? The other thing that's a pain in my ass right now is getting the key in the ignition on the new 4Runner, probably just because it's new.
Yes. Either will work. Very little water gets into your lock. It's purposefully designed specifically for that factor. You'd be better off disassembling it, blowing it out with either canned air or a compressor set to low-to-mid psi and then lubing with either.
PTFE is a fancy way of saying Teflon without being sued. Don't heat the PTFE lube above 400F, it might kill birds. Teflon reduces friction and dirt resistance; increases wear protection and water repellency.
MSDS: http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/msds_index.html
No. Remember, less is more. Little goes a long way. Don't fill your keyway with any foreign matter. ;)
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Got it. Gracias Rev.
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I read that as "Good Luck Lubricant".
ditto on that. combined with the thread on gun oils i was thinking, "if his shooting is that bad, how will a different oil help?".
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I keep seeing it as Glock lube... :)
Muriatic acid works well for those.
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Yes. Either will work. Very little water gets into your lock. It's purposefully designed specifically for that factor. You'd be better off disassembling it, blowing it out with either canned air or a compressor set to low-to-mid psi and then lubing with either.
PTFE is a fancy way of saying Teflon without being sued. Don't heat the PTFE lube above 400F, it might kill birds. Teflon reduces friction and dirt resistance; increases wear protection and water repellency.
MSDS: http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/msds_index.html
No. Remember, less is more. Little goes a long way. Don't fill your keyway with any foreign matter. ;)
What are you, some kind of damn furriner? More is always better.
Install one of these on that bad boy.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg1.fastenal.com%2Fproductimages%2F60102_hr4c.jpg&hash=ded81eaf5805de7da2d8a92adaf09ab403baf59c)
Then fill 'er up!
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.beltco.com.my%2Fcatalog%2Fimage%2Fcache%2Fdata%2Fmalaysia-skf-one-hand-grease-gun-500x500.jpg&hash=e92e94a488f3c21f54930d94ee19f8c1bdb99ee0)
=D
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Okay Rev, here's one for you (or anyone else in the know). That Scout trailer has a back door and side door. Two padlocks, keyed the same. Side door is a little more sheltered, lock works fine. Back door is exposed, and I can get the key in, but I can't get it to turn. As far as I see, options are:
1. Shoot WD-40 up there and see if it works (then plan on replacing both in a while), or
2. Break out my dad's old universal master key from his days as a school principal (set of bolt cutters), and get a new set of locks now.
Any other suggestions?
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Tri-flow is better than WD40 for anything except use as a solvent. No idea about the lock question though.
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Any other suggestions?
Detcord.
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Okay Rev, here's one for you (or anyone else in the know). That Scout trailer has a back door and side door. Two padlocks, keyed the same. Side door is a little more sheltered, lock works fine. Back door is exposed, and I can get the key in, but I can't get it to turn. As far as I see, options are:
1. Shoot WD-40 up there and see if it works (then plan on replacing both in a while), or
2. Break out my dad's old universal master key from his days as a school principal (set of bolt cutters), and get a new set of locks now.
Any other suggestions?
You'd need an impressive amount of corrosion or grit to make the key unable to turn. Give it a whirl. WD-40 or anything else. Could pour in water, or compressed air, or solvents/cleaner/CLP/WD-40. You don't have much to lose from the sound of it.
More likely problem is a tumbler or spring got knocked out of position, damaged or is in an area where it should not be. That would lock up a padlock tight as a drum. If that is the case, unless you have a high end padlock with replaceable cylinder, toss the padlock and replace.
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"Re your mailbox locks, generally, I unmount the lock before doing maintenance. Only exception is padlocks."
The lock is riveted in place. I'm not drilling the rivets out.
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Hey Rev, thoughts on using an ultrasonic cleaner on lock mechanisms? Seems like it'd be ideal.
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I read that as "Good Luck Lubricant".
Brings something completely different to mind. >:D
Dyslexia for pun and frofit.
Oh good. It wasn't just me...
(this thread title has been driving me nuts)
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Hey Rev, thoughts on using an ultrasonic cleaner on lock mechanisms? Seems like it'd be ideal.
Never tried it, actually. Give it a whirl and let us know how it performs
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You'd need an impressive amount of corrosion or grit to make the key unable to turn. Give it a whirl. WD-40 or anything else. Could pour in water, or compressed air, or solvents/cleaner/CLP/WD-40. You don't have much to lose from the sound of it.
More likely problem is a tumbler or spring got knocked out of position, damaged or is in an area where it should not be. That would lock up a padlock tight as a drum. If that is the case, unless you have a high end padlock with replaceable cylinder, toss the padlock and replace.
Thanks, Rev. It's a big box store 2-pack of padlocks, so not expensive enough to do anything more than cut it off and replace it if it doesn't work reliably. That said, it's a Scout troop, so saving a few bucks by spraying it isn't a bad thing at all...
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regular motor oil will keep an exposed padlock functioning for a long while. lately i've been using a rubber shield over them as well. (tack on a piece of old innertube or flashing as a flap that will cover the lock.)
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The padlocks on the trailers I haul are often left open, exposed to rain and road grit in the slipstream. In winter they pick up a lot of ground tuffa/lava and salt. Dealing with binding locks requires a bit of liquid volume. I use CLP. It has also worked well on household and car door locks.
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Agree with previous post.
I've never used graphite.
This comes from lock and safe persons over the decades that maintained safes. I used to be in a work where I dealt with safes all the time. I do mean safes, with time locks, multiple dials, day keys, etc. Some were walk in safes. The earliest caveat I can recall as a kid was to never, ever, use oil with graphite, as this makes a lapping compound, and reeks havoc on the locking mechanism.
Professional safe guy was telling me this, as he was installing a new system for a small safe, that he had to break into, as the safe "locked itself down". Graphite and oil had just worn out two pins, and hence caused the lock down.
As stated previously, a good CLP will flush out a padlock.
I have used mineral spirits to clean a padlock, that was getting gritty, such as happens here on the farm, using air, blow out, apply a CLP, then use air to distribute evenly, and to get rid of excess.
I have also used lighter fluid such as Zippo/Ronson in a pinch to get a gritty padlock to work, as no CLP or anything else was on hand.
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Lock-EZE
Which is basically powdered graphite.
Any kind of powdered/squirt-type graphite.
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Any kind of powdered/squirt-type graphite.
Doesn't really matter. I tend to go mid-shelf. Not the cheapest and not the most expensive. Graphite is graphite.
sm is correct that oil and graphite is a bad combination. Some people stick with oil for that reason. Which is fine, but it does leave a residue that attracts grit. Cleaning with any evaporative solvent (alcohol is good) will mostly fix that issue. Water or air also works. I do use CLP on practice locks, but they stay in a toolbox indoors and I also tend to toss my practice locks before they'd theoretically gunk up on grit. Locksport newbies are hell on cheap consumer locks. I use graphite on locks that I know are not oiled, are in regular usage, but not experiencing weather extremes.
Teflon is the bestest, but honestly not worth the price unless you have expensive locks or want the highest level of quantity. You can spray in as much as you want without gunking up the lock.