Post by: Jamisjockey on January 03, 2007, 02:12:03 PM
I got my last bike boxed up today, and saw this in the bike shop
http://www.feltusa.com/products/product.asp?pid=62&catid=18,24,38
Looks like that would be the townie bike.
Post by: mtnbkr on January 03, 2007, 04:25:28 PM
I'm STILL drooling over those ANT bikes Cosmo posted. I really want this:
But I'm not about to pay his prices.
Here's another neat bike link: http://www.lafetra.com/bmha/default.htm
Sorry, I didn't feel like starting a new thread and it is kinda on topic.
Chris
Post by: Gewehr98 on January 03, 2007, 05:27:26 PM
Post by: Harold Tuttle on January 03, 2007, 06:14:43 PM
http://www.fetishcycles.com/
they are 7005 aluminum
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fetish-Cycles-Fixation-Single-Speed-Mountain-Bike-Frame_W0QQitemZ200064713526QQihZ010QQcategoryZ98083QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Post by: Sindawe on January 03, 2007, 06:27:50 PM
I like the looks of the MP, but should'nt it have a scabbard for an M1 Garand?
But if you like weird looking bikes, the one John Stenner rode was WAY weird looking. I had to do a double take when I saw it the day his girlfriend rode it to work in the Bloodmines.
http://www.americancycling.org/bar-bat/history/jstenner/stenner_photo.htm
Post by: Headless Thompson Gunner on January 03, 2007, 07:31:38 PM
I really dig that A.N.T. bike. Simplicity to the max. I oughta rebuild my Crosscheck into something like that. One front brake, no rear brake. Single speed, or maybe a Nexus hub. Moustache bars. Brooks saddle and leather bar tape. That'd make for a good winter project.
Post by: mtnbkr on January 04, 2007, 02:18:38 AM
What stops that thing? Is it a drum front brake?
If you're talking about the ANT bike I posted, it's a fixed gear. Those usually only have a front brake because your legs are the braking force for the rear wheel. In case you don't know the vernacular, a fixed gear bike doesn't "coast". If the bike is rolling, the pedals are turning.Quote
I really dig that A.N.T. bike. Simplicity to the max.
Agreed. Unfortunately, he likes his bikes too much. He wants $2600 for the bike as pictured. I could have a Ti bike built for less than that. However, I don't know where I'd source the groovy red rims and retro tires.Chris
Post by: bedlamite on January 04, 2007, 03:40:35 AM
Post by: Jamisjockey on January 04, 2007, 04:02:56 AM
Post by: Jamisjockey on January 04, 2007, 04:28:58 AM
Awww geezzz. There just ain't no getting away from you bike-British term for a cigarette, is there?
I like the looks of the MP, but should'nt it have a scabbard for an M1 Garand?
But if you like weird looking bikes, the one John Stenner rode was WAY weird looking. I had to do a double take when I saw it the day his girlfriend rode it to work in the Bloodmines.
http://www.americancycling.org/bar-bat/history/jstenner/stenner_photo.htm
I like the looks of the MP, but should'nt it have a scabbard for an M1 Garand?
But if you like weird looking bikes, the one John Stenner rode was WAY weird looking. I had to do a double take when I saw it the day his girlfriend rode it to work in the Bloodmines.
http://www.americancycling.org/bar-bat/history/jstenner/stenner_photo.htm
Enough of the homophobic and ignorant remarks, especially about cyclists
What you're looking at there is a genuine time-trialing bike. Very specific design, not good for much else.
Oh, and as far as the MP not having a scabbard.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/WWII-M1-Carbine-Leather-RIFLE-SCABBARD-Jeep-Motorcycle_W0QQitemZ330068411007QQihZ014QQcategoryZ36052QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Post by: mtnbkr on January 04, 2007, 05:13:01 AM
mtnbkr- Velocity rims are decent quality, and they anodize them in all sorts of colors, although the braking surface is usually machined.
They wouldn't have that retro look though.
Chris
Post by: Headless Thompson Gunner on January 04, 2007, 06:42:02 AM
Post by: mtnbkr on January 04, 2007, 09:04:10 AM
Chris
Post by: Gewehr98 on January 04, 2007, 09:50:18 AM
Post by: cosine on January 04, 2007, 09:53:04 AM
Post by: Jamisjockey on January 04, 2007, 09:59:35 AM
If you don't mind me asking, about how much do you have to lay out to get a simple, strong, fairly decent quality utilitarian bike?
IMHO, about $600 is the benchmark for any bike besides hybrid cruisers or BMX bikes. Anything less than that is suspect to me. Some of the single speed or interal hub bikes might be less than that and yet still quality, though.
That MP MSRP's for $550, and is set up with racks and a headlight already. The only thing I'd change about it would be changing the 3 speed rear internal hub to a 7 speed or higher.
Post by: Iain on January 04, 2007, 10:17:46 AM
Trouble is, I'd probably find myself attempting to stick an old long stroke single cylinder engine in it. I really like the look of the old motorcycles that were not all that far removed from bicycles, a look Felt has really captured with these bicycles.
Post by: mtnbkr on January 04, 2007, 10:34:39 AM
If you don't mind me asking, about how much do you have to lay out to get a simple, strong, fairly decent quality utilitarian bike?
For just riding around town and light trail work? I'd set the bar as low as $300. Back in the 90s, the Trek 800 series fit that mold perfectly. I don't know what fills that niche today, but if you stick to the major brands and are just looking for basic transportation and light trail riding (no jumps, no obstacles, etc), pretty any sub $400 bike from the big players will work.Suspension (front or rear) changes the equation a bit and that may be why Jamisjockey says $600. Below $400, I'd definitely want a fully rigid bike. Heck, based on my halfhearted perusals of the local shop, I'd rather not bother with suspension or disk brakes on any bike less than $1k because they tend to put really crappy components on to keep the price low and still get suspension and disk brakes of any quality on. But that's getting out of the "utilitarian" aspect with components like that...
That might be why I'm still pimping my 9yo hardtail.
Edit to add: http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike.php?bikeid=1010600&f=19
Not sexy, not up to "real" mountain biking, but it'll get you to/from class/store/library and will handle bike paths, dirt roads, etc. It's head and shoulders above what you'll find at wal-mart, target, sears, etc. I'm not crazy that it has a suspension fork. I'd rather have a rigid fork and slightly better components, but that's me.
Chris
Post by: cosine on January 04, 2007, 10:42:04 AM
Could you tell me which bike you tried to link too? I just get the main page. Edit2: Never mind, I got it. I test rode the 820 a couple of times when my dad was looking at it, but I didn't like the feel of suspension, especially when I was riding on smooth pavement anyway.
Edit: I have a several year old Trek 3, but I never do any mountain biking. I do like riding it around the pavement, but it's a bit uncomfortable. I might have to see if I can change the stem for something not as forward extended, the handlebars for something turned in a little more, (I don't want to quite as stretched out; not that I mind being stretched out, it's just a little too stretched out right now), and tires for something not quite as wide. I've ridden some other bikes and it felt like thinner tires sometimes make it easier to ride on pavement. I'd probably rather do that than purchase another bike.
Post by: mtnbkr on January 04, 2007, 10:57:13 AM
Chris
Post by: cosine on January 04, 2007, 11:00:51 AM
Those are easy changes to make. If you have a Performance Bike Shop nearby, they run some crazy deals, you should be able to get the parts you need cheaply. A stem could be as little as $10, new tires as little as $10/each, etc. Just make sure the frame isn't too big for you. If so, you're wasting your money trying to make it fit.
Chris
Chris
I'll look into it. I know I can make the changes, I've disassembles bikes before to clean/grease/fix innertubes, so this time I'll just be swapping parts instead of putting the originals back together.
Is there some formula or something I could do to ensure that the frame is not to big for me? (short of having to spend money on a fitting.)
Post by: Sindawe on January 04, 2007, 11:14:50 AM
Quote
Enough of the homophobic and ignorant remarks, especially about cyclists
jamisjockey, no need to get your undies in knot. I picked up that term you find so offensive FROM the avid cyclists I worked with back when. Folks who would ride 20 - 60 miles daily as a matter of course and would ride from Oregon to Pennsylvania as a vacation.
Unless of course, there is something that you're not telling us... : neener :
Post by: Jamisjockey on January 04, 2007, 11:38:21 AM
Those are easy changes to make. If you have a Performance Bike Shop nearby, they run some crazy deals, you should be able to get the parts you need cheaply. A stem could be as little as $10, new tires as little as $10/each, etc. Just make sure the frame isn't too big for you. If so, you're wasting your money trying to make it fit.
Chris
Chris
I'll look into it. I know I can make the changes, I've disassembles bikes before to clean/grease/fix innertubes, so this time I'll just be swapping parts instead of putting the originals back together.
Is there some formula or something I could do to ensure that the frame is not to big for me? (short of having to spend money on a fitting.)
You should have about 2-3 inches of clearance from the top tube to the wedding tackle when you're standing flat-footed stradling the bar. Without a fitting, though, you're otherwise guessing on reach, tt length, etc. As long as you're comfortable, you're okay, though.
Post by: cosine on January 04, 2007, 11:41:31 AM
You should have about 2-3 inches of clearance from the top tube to the wedding tackle when you're standing flat-footed stradling the bar. Without a fitting, though, you're otherwise guessing on reach, tt length, etc. As long as you're comfortable, you're okay, though.
Yep, I have the clearance.
Post by: onions! on January 04, 2007, 11:43:19 AM
You should have about 2-3 inches of clearance from the top tube to the wedding tackle when you're standing flat-footed stradling the bar. Without a fitting, though, you're otherwise guessing on reach, tt length, etc. As long as you're comfortable, you're okay, though.
[/quote]
So if you have a measured 30in inseam then you need either a 28 inch or 700(ish)cm frame?
Post by: Jamisjockey on January 04, 2007, 11:44:56 AM
Post by: zahc on January 04, 2007, 04:24:55 PM
Quote
IMHO, about $600 is the benchmark for any bike besides hybrid cruisers or BMX bikes. Anything less than that is suspect to me.
I woudn't be so sure on the bmx one, particularly given the penalty for failure. I have probably $2000 in my street bike (that I can't ride because I have bad shoulders, and should sell but can't bring myself to do it).
Post by: Cosmoline on January 04, 2007, 04:37:43 PM
I'm really interested in their new Amsterdam models, which promise to be just as tough but with a more traditional diamond frame.
Post by: Cosmoline on January 04, 2007, 04:48:45 PM
But if you like weird looking bikes, the one John Stenner rode was WAY weird looking. I had to do a double take when I saw it the day his girlfriend rode it to work in the Bloodmines.
http://www.americancycling.org/bar-bat/history/jstenner/stenner_photo.htm
http://www.americancycling.org/bar-bat/history/jstenner/stenner_photo.htm
That looks like something you'd use to chop lumber!
Post by: Harold Tuttle on January 04, 2007, 05:27:58 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-26-INTER-3-speed-beach-bicycle-bike-W-shimano_W0QQitemZ7235476136QQihZ015QQcategoryZ106945QQcmdZViewItem
kinda cool:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2007-New-26-beach-Cruiser-Bike-Bicycle-On-Sale_W0QQitemZ330070523472QQihZ014QQcategoryZ106945QQcmdZViewItem
tacticool:
http://www.greenlinebicycles.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=1109
winner:
NEW 26" 7 Speed Beach Cruiser W/ Shimano
US $179.99 40 bucks US shipping
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-26-7-speed-beach-bicycle-bike-W-shimano_W0QQitemZ330059705320QQihZ014QQcategoryZ106945QQcmdZViewItem
Post by: MillCreek on January 05, 2007, 10:01:14 AM
Quote
You should have about 2-3 inches of clearance from the top tube to the wedding tackle when you're standing flat-footed stradling the bar. Without a fitting, though, you're otherwise guessing on reach, tt length, etc. As long as you're comfortable, you're okay, though.
As Jason says later, the above standard is fairly common when talking about mountain or BMX bicycles. For a traditional geometry road frame, the top tube should be just touching your crotch. I am 5'10" with a 32 inch cycling inseam and a 30" business slacks inseam. My mountain bikes are typically 18-18.5", depending on the geometry, and my road bikes are typically 54-56 cm, depending on geometry and how the frame is measured.
Post by: Headless Thompson Gunner on January 05, 2007, 03:15:23 PM
Sizing a bike based on the height of the top tube is a mistake. Make sure you have enough clearance to ensure you won't wrack yourself if you have to stand over the bike in a hurry. But other than that, it just doesn't matter how high the top tube is.
What matters is getting the right length between your saddle and you handlebars. Too long and you'll be stretched out too far, and suffer neck, back, arm and hand pain. Too short and you be too upright, suffering from jarring impacts and an ineficient riding position.
How to pick a bike with the proper top tube length is a whole different can of worms, one I don't want to get into. So suffice it to say that sizing a frame based on top tube height instead of top tube length is a bad idea.
Post by: Harold Tuttle on January 05, 2007, 08:31:55 PM
it had nice wide bars and a long top tube
the seat was just for coasting
Post by: rwc on January 07, 2007, 07:45:06 AM
Disc brakes were a revelation. My evening ride starts out with a 150-200' descent in three blocks (James St. betw. 5th & 2nd in Seattle). Setting out on a street completely sheeted in 1/4 to 1/2" of water with rush hour commuters or worse - Seahawks' fans
- is a good exercise in situational awareness. Without disc brakes I would be walking. Ditto for dodging falling trees and power lines last month. As an aside, the best accessory I've found to in the last year - http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/VST-1004/default.asp Not subtle, but darn effective. I'm thinking about putting one in the car for emergencies. Not far behind is a coat from Showers Pass. http://www.showerspass.com/
Safe riding all.
Post by: mtnbkr on January 07, 2007, 10:20:40 AM
Chris