Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: MillCreek on October 09, 2018, 11:12:19 PM
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https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/05/us/3d-printed-guns-homemade-ammunition.html
I am a semi-active reloader, but I had not heard about reloading for the 3-D printed firearms.
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https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/05/us/3d-printed-guns-homemade-ammunition.html
I am a semi-active reloader, but I had not heard about reloading for the 3-D printed firearms.
Just have to create a case that can withstand the pressure without being in the chamber of a gun-barrel.
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The way things are going, we'd all better start learning how to knap flints.
:mad:
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The way things are going, we'd all better start learning how to knap flints.
:mad:
You don't know how to knap your own flints?
Wow. :laugh:
Been a long time since I've done it, but I made passable flints for my Renegade.
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I kind of wish there were comments associated with that article, only because I don't recall of any publications similar to the NYT publishing something like this. I'd be interested in reading the reactions of the NYT sheep to see if they think this is the next secret gun nut Armageddon or not. Their description of the average reloader was interesting. I wonder where they got that - on their own or from one of the gun community people they interviewed?
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Just have to create a case that can withstand the pressure without being in the chamber of a gun-barrel.
I'm not sure, but I think that's pretty easy. Use Russian steel-cased ammo and cut it down. Trim the shoulder off a .223 case and you end up with something like a rimless .32 H&R Magnum. It might hold up to black powder loads.
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I'm not sure, but I think that's pretty easy. Use Russian steel-cased ammo and cut it down. Trim the shoulder off a .223 case and you end up with something like a .rimless 32 H&R Magnum. It might hold up to black powder loads.
I remember ads in the gun rags quite a few years ago from some specialty shop (Huntington's?) that advertised "Steel Head" rifle cases. IIRC, the ad copy claimed they could be reloaded to higher pressures than regular brass cases. And today there's a different company making commercial pistol ammo with a stainless steel head and aluminum case body.
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You don't know how to knap your own flints?
Wow. :laugh:
Been a long time since I've done it, but I made passable flints for my Renegade.
That always seemed like one of those things I could figure out if I had to. I am also sure it is a bit more difficult than I imagine. I would rather just collect more knives.
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In the late 1800s there was a series of Everlast or Everlasting cartridges made for Maynard, Ballard, and possibly others that used an extra thick case with a very heavy case head. Essentially it was a whole new cartridge -- .38-55 Ballard (Winchester) had very different dimensions from the .38-55 Ballard Everlasting.
Not sure how they would have acted if the powder ignited outside a chamber, though.
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I'm not sure, but I think that's pretty easy. Use Russian steel-cased ammo and cut it down. Trim the shoulder off a .223 case and you end up with something like a .rimless 32 H&R Magnum. It might hold up to black powder loads.
Or do like the old Nagant revolvers did. Loaded round had a bullet way deeper than the case mouth.
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"Loaded round had a bullet way deeper than the cartridge rim."
Uhm.... :facepalm:
Case mouth. If the bullet was deeper than the cartridge rim, the bullet would be BEHIND the primer, not in the case, and would no longer be a projectile. :rofl:
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"Loaded round had a bullet way deeper than the cartridge rim."
Uhm.... :facepalm:
Case mouth. If the bullet was deeper than the cartridge rim, the bullet would be BEHIND the primer, not in the case, and would no longer be a projectile. :rofl:
Yeah, realized that as soon as I re-read it. Fixed.
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Just have to create a case that can withstand the pressure without being in the chamber of a gun-barrel.
If the liberator-style pistols are single shots anyway, why not make the cartridge out of steel, so that it also functions as a barrel? Make it 3" long, with a silver-brazed or tig-welded rim that is drilled and countersunk for a primer. Steel tube is contersunk for most of its length to give a shoulder for the bullet to seat against to give consistent pressures. In effect, make each cartridge a mini-muzzle loader, so that the plastic doesn't have to take the brunt of the pressure.
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Well if you want to shoot it, and aren't just trying to make a point about 3D printed guns, the obvious thing to do is print the barrel (so you can print the fiddly to machine stuff like chamber dimensions and the locking lug) and then sleeve the whole thing in a 1/2" pipe nipple from Home Depot. Go for a light press fit.
Or I guess you could invent some crazy wildcat round from hybrid steel cases and home cast projectiles. That's a route too.
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Well if you want to shoot it, and aren't just trying to make a point about 3D printed guns, the obvious thing to do is print the barrel (so you can print the fiddly to machine stuff like chamber dimensions and the locking lug) and then sleeve the whole thing in a 1/2" pipe nipple from Home Depot. Go for a light press fit.
Or I guess you could invent some crazy wildcat round from hybrid steel cases and home cast projectiles. That's a route too.
I'm surprised they didn't just do as you mentioned, but make it to fit a 1911 or .22 ruger charger barrel. Something low pressure and only costs ~$50 off the shelf.
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Cody Wilson was trying to prove a point about 3d printing a gun, as opposed to home making a gun. Which is why the liberator has so much plastic in it.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think some folks have gotten 7 or so .380 shots out of one. I kinda want to make one and give it a try, but I'd have to model some rifling and put a bunch of metal in it to be legal, both of which I haven't figured out how to do yet.
3D printed!! makes for good headlines, but it's still easier to Kyber Pass machine one then to print one. Perhaps in another 15 years or so.
*The other obvious edit to the liberator idea is to print out the barrel and breech, then use that as a model to make a sand cast, and cast those parts in something solid. More technical yes, but doesn't need welding, a mill, or a lathe. There's a bunch of YouTube content on cheap home casting.