Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: zxcvbob on May 17, 2020, 02:41:18 PM
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Wife has an iron table that had a cement and tile mosaic top that she uses outdoors. She left it out over the winter and the top fell apart from freezing and thawing. She wants a new top. (it doesn't have to be cement) I've been trying to figure out how to make a form to cast a top from high strength mortar, or make a nice clean slice from a 3 foot diameter slab of soft maple trunk in my back yard (I know that won't last long), and I just tho't last night, "why not cut a circle of Hardiebacker cement board and use that?" Smooth side up. I don't know if the half inch is strong enough, but it's only about $12 for a piece to try it. But I don't know how to cut it.
Normally you score the stuff with a utility knife and snap it. On Hardie's web site they show how to cut a circle, but that's an *inside* circle (you score the circle, score it multiple times across the diagonal like pizza slices, then hammer out the pieces. But I want to keep the circle and discard the outside.
What about using a diamond power saw, if I cut it outdoors and wear a P100 mask? Cutting or grinding the stuff creates a lot of silica dust, but on a windy day that might be okay; just hazardous to do it indoors. Or, it comes in a 3x5' panel, maybe I can score the circle and then score rays from the circle out to the edge and knock them out with a hammer...
Any idea? Is this not going to work anyway because the 1/2" stuff is really only about 7/16" and isn't strong enough to support itself flat, especially after it's been rained on a few times?
I have a wet tile saw. Maybe I can make some kind of jig to cut it with that. But that would probably require drilling a hole in the center...
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Dremel and a cord to act as a compass?
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I doubt your cement board would hold up very well in that application. ?
You could use plywood and topcoat it with that epoxy stuff they use to make countertops that look like marble or stone or add colors and swirls etc. my son in law did his moms old kitchen countertops with it and had some left over and then did a patio table with it and it looks good. They used it for restaurant and bar tables back when we had restaurants and bars.
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I would make it out of cedar boards (tongue and grove) and use marine varnish on the exposed sides.
or treated plywood with those over it
https://www.amazon.com/Mosaic-Tuscan-Custom-Elasticized-Table/dp/B06WLMVN5Y/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=tile+outdoor+table&qid=1589745208&s=hi&sr=1-1
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Fiberglass.
Use epoxy resin. Make it as thick as you need it.
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I'm kinda liking idea: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V9PGV6D/ref=twister_B07VF9Y1TG I need to measure the table base to see what the actual diameter is. That's probably cheaper than having a piece custom cut and the edges polished locally. 1/4" seems kind of thin, tho'. I wish they had 3/8 -- but I haven't acutally looked for 3/8" tempered glass tops yet.
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I'm kinda liking idea: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V9PGV6D/ref=twister_B07VF9Y1TG I need to measure the table base to see what the actual diameter is. That's probably cheaper than having a piece custom cut and the edges polished locally. 1/4" seems kind of thin, tho'. I wish they had 3/8 -- but I haven't acutally looked for 3/8" tempered glass tops yet.
I clicked on your link, they have 3/8" tempered glass tops too
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I clicked on your link, they have 3/8" tempered glass tops too
Yeah, I found a 3/8" renewed top I'll probably order. It's supposed to be "like new" and it's about $20 cheaper than actually new. I measured the base and it looks like either a 30 or 32" top will work. 36" would be a little big. With a glass top, I should probably put 3 blobs of clear silicone on the iron frame of the glass to rest on so it's not glass-on-metal. I wonder if I should put saranwrap or something over the silicone so it doesn't stick to the glass? Then remove the film after the silicone hardens. I want to be able to remove the top for winter.
Edit: or these ;/ https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Bumpers-Pack-Clear-SP950-NA/dp/B01N922DLO
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Do you want a free black granite top? You’re in Minnesota, aren’t you? I’m between Redwood Falls and Marshall; come get it!
It has a metal base glued on - with the adhesive from hell. Want a photo?
JB
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Do you want a free black granite top? You’re in Minnesota, aren’t you? I’m between Redwood Falls and Marshall; come get it!
It has a metal base glued on - with the adhesive from hell. Want a photo?
JB
A photo would be nice, mainly just because I'm curious. You're about 3 hours away, and I don't have a truck (yet), and then I'd still need to cut it and polish the edges. The more I think about it, I'm liking the glass top from Amazon route. Thanks! :)
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I usually just shoot a 34-inch cannonball through it.
Wait ... you said you wanted to keep the middle part, correct? Never mind.
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I usually just shoot a 34-inch cannonball through it.
Wait ... you said you wanted to keep the middle part, correct? Never mind.
Yes, that's the problem. ;) I like your idea, tho'....
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A photo would be nice, mainly just because I'm curious. You're about 3 hours away, and I don't have a truck (yet), and then I'd still need to cut it and polish the edges. The more I think about it, I'm liking the glass top from Amazon route. Thanks! :)
I’ll get a pic tomorrow. It’s finished and polished. We took it out of the house and it’s languishing in the shop.
I *think* it’s 36 inches in diameter and ~1 1/4 thick. And heavy. I’ll send exact dimensions along with pics.
JB
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I’ll get a pic tomorrow. It’s finished and polished. We took it out of the house and it’s languishing in the shop.
I *think* it’s 36 inches in diameter and ~1 1/4 thick. And heavy. I’ll send exact dimensions along with pics.
JB
It's already a circle? Now I'm interested! I thought it was a rectangle large enuf for me to cut a circle. But it's probably too heavy for this little base. I'd love to see a pic. Thanks.
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Eh, I've got a diamond grit blade for my angle grinder that I usually use for doing closet flanges in tile and the like. In cement backer, usually I'm using hole saws.
For your application? I'd be strongly tempted to use a diamond or carbide grit blade (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-in-u-shank-carbide-grit-jigsaw-blades-3-pk-68087.html) in a jig saw.
That said, I agree with other posters that cement backer board won't hold up long as a table surface.
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Eh, I've got a diamond grit blade for my angle grinder that I usually use for doing closet flanges in tile and the like. In cement backer, usually I'm using hole saws.
For your application? I'd be strongly tempted to use a diamond or carbide grit blade (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-in-u-shank-carbide-grit-jigsaw-blades-3-pk-68087.html) in a jig saw.
That said, I agree with other posters that cement backer board won't hold up long as a table surface.
I know the gray stuff that looks like concrete won't hold up. I thought the cement and fiber stuff from Hardie might be more durable. But at this point I think I'll either buy a glass top, or make a road trip for that 80 lb chunk of granite at JB's and maybe stop at the Schell's brewery while I'm in the area -- if they are open.
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I know the gray stuff that looks like concrete won't hold up. I thought the cement and fiber stuff from Hardie might be more durable. But at this point I think I'll either buy a glass top, or make a road trip for that 80 lb chunk of granite at JB's and maybe stop at the Schell's brewery while I'm in the area -- if they are open.
Ah I misunderstood. Fiber cement might be pretty good. Carbide on a jig saw would probably still be my go to, though dust is a concern. Anyway, the plan that involves beer sounds better. =)
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Detcord.
Clear resin and .45 cases would look cool.