Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: AZRedhawk44 on June 15, 2020, 03:46:36 PM
-
Who has a table saw miter sled they love, and isn't super expensive?
I have a DeWalt 7491 table saw. I love the saw, though I admit that the sled miter gauge that came with it is sub-par.
I was building a new chicken coop this weekend, in particular making doors for the run that open on our backyard. I was making dado mitered cuts for 45 degree overlaps of the members. The miter sled that came with the saw vibrates loose from its angle setting if the little worksite saw gets much of a workout... and pushing an inch of dado blades gives it a workout.
I'd like one that clamps work to the face of the sled, if possible. And has detents for at least 90 degrees, ideally for 45, 22.5 and 15 degrees too if available.
-
I don't know what you consider expensive. I've got the DeWalt heavy stand and it works great. $200.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Heavy-Duty-Miter-Saw-Stand-DWX723/202665436
-
Wrong interpretation of my words.
Something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71391-Precision-System-track/dp/B07WR1V693/
-
My bad. I can't help, never used one . . . .
:P
-
I built one from baltic birch that fits my table saw, similar to this, but with less T-slot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtwK9X8o1Gw
-
Everyone I know that likes their sled, built it.
I had one I built years ago for my Dad's Delta, and it wasn't a hard project. I need to build one for my current saw one of these days.
Use UHMW for the slides.
-
This table saw is probably a bit small for a cross-cut sled.
I'm just talking about a quality single rail miter guide. I guess I shouldn't have used the word "sled" in my description.
-
This may not be what you're looking for, but it may help...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TWh4n5FFfU
-
This may not be what you're looking for, but it may help...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TWh4n5FFfU
That still doesn't solve the problem that my miter gauge doesn't have a 90 degree or 45 degree detent for repeatability, or that the angle retention bolt rattles loose when the saw is working hard.
-
You might like this one:
https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/must-have-table-saw-accessories-for-your-home-workshop/
I've got a list of to-builds from here:
https://www.familyhandyman.com/?s=table+saw+tips
-
I have a contractor table saw also, I found it's limitations real quick. I end up using my 10" dual bevel compound sliding miter saw for anything other than a straight cut for boards, wish it was a 12", but it was a parental hand me down and I'm not going to bitch about a free $600 saw because my dad wanted a 12" saw.
Someday I'm going to hopefully move to a place where I can have a shop and have a cabinet saw and a big cutting table.
-
That still doesn't solve the problem that my miter gauge doesn't have a 90 degree or 45 degree detent for repeatability, or that the angle retention bolt rattles loose when the saw is working hard.
What does it look like?
Most miter gauges are pretty "meh". Even the ones that used to come with $ cabinet saws, like a unisaw or powermatic 66.
They can be improved, the slop can be taken out by center punching the sides to form some raised dimples.
A wood fence can screwed to them, to extend the cast fence, it also gives support right at the blade to reduce chip out on the cut break through.
The angle can be set with a angle block of some sort, but the bolt coming loose- that sounds a bit scary.
Its pretty hard to get a really accurate miter with one, especially when trying to make a frame, like a picture frame, as the slightest error multiplies.
A sled will give better results, most of the time.
-
Wow, that IncraMITER 1000SE looks like a pretty incredible piece of kit.
Price has gone up to $190 on Amazon, but still, if I had a table saw and were doing a lot of angle cuts, I think I'd invest in one.
-
What does it look like?
Most miter gauges are pretty "meh". Even the ones that used to come with $ cabinet saws, like a unisaw or powermatic 66.
They can be improved, the slop can be taken out by center punching the sides to form some raised dimples.
A wood fence can screwed to them, to extend the cast fence, it also gives support right at the blade to reduce chip out on the cut break through.
The angle can be set with a angle block of some sort, but the bolt coming loose- that sounds a bit scary.
Its pretty hard to get a really accurate miter with one, especially when trying to make a frame, like a picture frame, as the slightest error multiplies.
A sled will give better results, most of the time.
The stock miter gauge is a tiny little thing, intended to be tiny so it can be stowed onboard the interior of the saw's chassis.
This guy's video is eerily too familiar. He has my same saw, and also the same predecessor saw (an old jobsite craftsman rig).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdbHhXXdERc
Miter gauge is on top of his saw. That's the one it comes with and I have.
I've since ordered this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBFKOH2/
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61fhajkMGcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
This one has detents for common angles, a better angle retention bolt, some set screws to take out the slop in the miter slot, and I can screw a sacrificial miter fence to it for more surface engagement and to prevent chipout. And it wasn't Incra-level expensive.