Post by: mtnbkr on April 11, 2006, 09:45:07 AM
My Camry claims to need 5w30 (yes, it told me this). The manual says I can use 10w30 if it's all that's available, but I should switch back at the next oil change. The reasoning for 5w30 is for improved cold weather starts and better fuel economy.
I plan on using Mobil1 and running the max oil change interval (7500miles). My driving doesn't fall under the "severe" duty category (towing, multiple short trips at below freezing temps, and dirt roads). Synthetic flows better than dino oil, so M1 10w30 should meet those requirements. The temp ranges (as given by the manaul) for 10w30 are a closer match to this region than 5w30, but either range covers this region (temps from high 20s to low 100s). It's a very gray area. I don't know if I should run the thinner oil since it's a newer and tighter engine or go with what I know.
FWIW, my 97 4Runner also calls for 5w30, but I run 10w30 M1 and change the oil every 5k miles. At 130k miles, it uses less than 1qt per oil change (usually about half a quart) and runs great.
The folks on the toyota board seem to go either way.
A side benefit of using 10w30 is not having to stock two different oils.
What would you do?
Chris
Post by: charby on April 11, 2006, 10:19:24 AM
When I used to change my own oil I used 5w-30 in the winter months and 10w-30 in the summer months as a rule of thumb. The only other motor oil I keep around is 30w for the bar on the chainsaw. I do use synthetic oil in my snow blower just because its a 10hp pull start and its just a wee bit easier to pull start it when its below 10 F.
I would just stick with what the manual sez, tolerances are much tighter on newer motors than the past so thinner oil is required to flow into the smaller passages.
Charby
Post by: zahc on April 11, 2006, 11:05:16 AM
I honestly think it's not worth worrying about. Go with whichever is most convenient.
Post by: yesterdaysyouth on April 11, 2006, 11:26:16 AM
until it's less than 32 degrees that oil is 30w reguardless...
Post by: 280plus on April 11, 2006, 11:55:00 AM
Post by: K Frame on April 11, 2006, 12:18:58 PM
I go with what my owner's manual recommends, which is 5w-30.
I figure they built the damned thing, they ought to know.
Post by: mtnbkr on April 11, 2006, 12:32:24 PM
Quote
Stop and go traffic on 66 really does qualify as severe duty use
According to my manual, only towing, SHORT trips when the temp is below freezing, and dusty (ie dirt) roads are severe duty. Everything else is "normal". In the past, stop and go on I66 would qualify as severe, but not anymore according to my manual.
Chris
Post by: ...has left the building. on April 11, 2006, 01:00:26 PM
Post by: Perd Hapley on April 11, 2006, 01:21:44 PM
When 5w kills a ninja, it just uses the hide, when 10w kills a ninja it uses every part.
Post by: mtnbkr on April 11, 2006, 01:25:28 PM
Going to 10w30 was tough enough given that I'd always run 30w or 20w50 in my Beetle. I'm going to be a wreck the first time a manual tells me to use 5w20 (it's coming...).
Chris
Post by: Larry Ashcraft on April 11, 2006, 02:01:16 PM
Quote from: yesterdaysyouth
until it's less than 32 degrees that oil is 30w reguardless...
I think it's the other way around. Its actual viscosity is 5w or 10w, but when it gets hot, it has the lubricating properties of 30w.
Post by: mtnbkr on April 11, 2006, 02:22:48 PM
Chris
Post by: Waitone on April 11, 2006, 02:42:18 PM
Post by: K Frame on April 11, 2006, 03:30:08 PM
Shoot, boy, my SEEL buddies EAT ninjas for breakfast!
Interesting on the new defintion of severe duty.
Post by: Harold Tuttle on April 11, 2006, 03:34:13 PM
95 percent of camry owners go to jiffy lube and do not worry about 5w vs 10w
get mobil 1 5w and change it every 5k
you will be fine
Post by: K Frame on April 11, 2006, 03:37:16 PM
Post by: mtnbkr on April 11, 2006, 03:54:32 PM
Quote
Interesting on the new defintion of severe duty.
Surprised me as well. Quote
you realize that this is a camry right?
95 percent of camry owners go to jiffy lube and do not worry about 5w vs 10w
Yeah, I know. I'm the other 5%. 95 percent of camry owners go to jiffy lube and do not worry about 5w vs 10w
Quote
I figure at the rate he's banging it up already it's only going to have to last two or three oil changes
I am not the one banging it up. 
Chris
Post by: Declaration Day on April 11, 2006, 06:37:02 PM
I had the inside track on certain local oil change places for many years. Scary, what those guys do and what they smoke while working!
Post by: skyder on April 12, 2006, 06:28:38 AM
bobistheoilguy.com
and wander around in there.
Post by: Harold Tuttle on April 12, 2006, 07:01:51 AM
amsoil
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/default.aspx
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL) delivers extraordinary lubrication in all types of automotive gasoline engines. By combining the industry premier synthetic technology with AMSOIL premium additives, AMSOIL ASL exceeds the higher performance demands of modern engines. It withstands the stress of higher horsepower, higher heat and complicated emission control systems. AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil consistently outperforms competitive conventional and synthetic motor oils. It delivers long-lasting performance and protection.
AMSOIL, the leader in automotive synthetic lubrication, produced the worlds first API qualified synthetic motor oil in 1972. Trust the extensive experience of AMSOIL The First in Synthetics® to do the best job protecting your engine.
Extends Drain Intervals
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil can extend drain intervals far beyond those recommended for conventional oils. Its unique synthetic formulation and long drain additive system are very stable, resisting oxidation and neutralizing acids. AMSOIL ASL delivers the best possible engine protection, cleanliness and performance over extended drain intervals, reducing vehicle maintenance and waste oil disposal costs.
Maximizes Fuel Economy
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil is designed to maximize energy efficiency for improved fuel economy. Unlike conventional oils, its uniform molecular structure helps it flow more freely and reduce friction between metal surfaces. Anti-friction additives are included to further improve energy efficiency.
Reduces Engine Wear
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil provides outstanding anti-wear protection. It has excellent viscosity film strength to separate metal surfaces and robust anti-wear additives to further reduce wear in metal-to-metal contact regions for improved engine life.
Reduces Oil Consumption and Emissions
Evaporation (volatility) occurs when oil gets hot, causing high oil consumption and emissions. AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil has the lowest evaporation rate of the oils tested, making it the best at controlling evaporationrelated oil consumption and emissions (see chart below).
Excels in Extreme Temperatures
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil resists thermal (heat) breakdown better than conventional oils. It is heavily fortified with detergent and dispersant additives to prevent sludge deposits and keep engines clean. And unlike conventional oils, AMSOIL ASL contains no wax. It stays fluid down to -60°F for improved cold temperature oil flow, reduced bearing wear and easier starting
Post by: mtnbkr on April 12, 2006, 08:25:32 AM
Quote from: skyder
Just to further muddy the water, you could go over to
bobistheoilguy.com
and wander around in there.
I did that before I even posted here. bobistheoilguy.com
and wander around in there.
Quote
a magic elixir for the oil retentive
not really. One of my requirements is that I can find it relatively easy. That's why I stick with Mobil1. It may or may not be the best, but when I NEED a quart, I can get one just about anywhere. If it weren't for that, I'd have a choice of Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, etc.Chris
Post by: Art Eatman on April 12, 2006, 12:43:08 PM
I bought a 2000 GMC full size PU in January, 2004; 50K miles. I've put some 54,000 miles on it. I'm running Castrol Synthetic, 10-30. Same oil pressure on the gauge now as when I bought it. The computer let me run 7,500, one time, before the "Change my diaper" light came on. I generally figure on 5,, just on general principles.
Oh. The deal with multi-viscosity oil: 5-30 means thayt when it's cold, it flows as easily as 5 viscosity. When it's hot, it flows as 30 viscosity. It's not thick and goopy when cold, but it performs with the proper separation-strength when it's hot. (The crank, rods, cam and lifters all float on a thin layer of oil. Better machine tools in manufacture means an engine can have tighter clearances and better uniformity, so thinner oil can be used.)
Post by: Guest on April 12, 2006, 07:24:41 PM
So The Camry came out and the lines "changed", as did a lot of matters in regard to sales reps.
At 300K miles a few guys kept the car and let kids needing HS/ College cars use them. Most of us grew up with Castrol, and many of us just flat dislike anything Esso...Mobil was okay back in the day, when merged Mobil got the axe.
One Camry went 900k miles until - of all things - a dump truck rolled not only into, but "onto" while parked. All this Camry ever used was 5w-30 GTX every 4K miles while "on the road" then 3K or 3 months as a College Car.
My Olds went 190K with GTX , 5w-30 then at 150K went to 10w-30. I sold it, car went 350K total until ...worth more as parts, than getting fixed from getting hit. Engine went to inboard boat set up, trannie for a rebuild on a Truck.
Old man "Doc" a sales rep, said when he got 400k miles on a Olds, he would get himself a Benz. He was a Castrol fan too. His Daughter's car was a Camry he bought with 200k miles...his daughter liked to change her own oil so he bought her cases of GTX 5w-30 and a case of filters to "start the kid out right".
Doc's goal was to put a million miles on that Benz - when done, retire. Liar, he went over a Million miles by 30k....He gave the car to his landscape feller...with cases of Castrol, filters, and Gold Dunhill Lighter.
"Lighter was always in that Benz, not right to remove it".
My truck is a '93 with 136K. Except for dealer oil changes when new, Castrol 5w-30. I have used Castrol Syntec 0w-30, have used Syntec 5w-30, run the blend too. Hey, I was gettng the Castrol in trade along with the Wix filters, my preference , with AC Delco being the next choice.
Mine seems to prefer Dino over Syn for some odd reason...does not use oil b/t changes. For my long hauls , I prefer to run the Synthetic, or at least a Syntec blend. I had two cases of GTX 5w-30 exchanged for services rendered last time ( out of Syntec at the time) *shrug* it'll run...not going to worry about it.
Best kept secret is Chevron and Havoline - dino , synthetic blend or synthetic. One of my "road vehicles" used nothing but Havoline, Supplier out of Castrol and Havoline more ready avail where this vehicle kept, so mechanic just ordered a pallet for "these vehicles" he kept up with.
One of "our" Camry's , a 4 banger, made it to 200k miles with Havoline Dino 5w-30 until it was wrecked, engine fine, just the rest of the car allergic to snow covered ditches...
"Earl ain't Esso" is my book.
Post by: Felonious Monk/Fignozzle on April 13, 2006, 07:10:17 AM
I use the KISS method. Castrol GTX, 20w50 in summer, 10w40 in winter. When I hit a multiple of 5k, it's time for an oil change.
Ran a brand new '85 Toyota Corolla 330,000 miles before the odometer stopped working, and a year and a half more after that.
I've got 171k on my '91 Volvo 240 sedan, sounds almost as good as the '92 wagon with 102k. Both sound like quiet little sewing machines as I run my 73 mile commute at speeds frequently approaching 3 digits.
Very hard to go wrong with Castrol. Never used the fake stuff personally, why bother given the results I've had?
Post by: K Frame on April 13, 2006, 07:39:06 AM
Post by: Guest on April 13, 2006, 02:39:19 PM
Texaco was across the street, mean old drunk guy ran the place. So I have no idea as to why I have my preferencs other than being a hard-headed, opinonated, male that always hated Chrysler, Democrats and other stuff.
Esso station had Castrol oil products too. Never dawned on me being a kid it meant anything.
I asked hard questions even as a kid. I mean Esso had a Machine oil in a tin can ( they gave me one ) Texaco had a machine oil in a tin can...'How come Gulf , Castrol, and Sinclair don't?" I asked. That is when they give you a nickel to sweep the front room floor.
Datsun, okay, that is odd name for a car, church folks used Castrol in it...I think I viewed my first Japenese words trying to figure out where the oil went...
Uncle bought a used VW Beetle for Eldest daughter to use, learning to drive and drive herself to school. "Go get the Castrol and ammo out of the trunk".
Some idiot done stuck an engine in the trunk of that thing. Uncle had this laugh...and he sure did use it that day.
This VW did not hava fuel gauge. Instead it had a petcock to reserve fuel. It sure was odd the first time we went down a country road with shotguns and such in the "trunk" and they were "in front of us".
"We supposed to point the muzzle out front of us or toward us riding in this bug". I asked him.
I got that...."dang kids sure do ask some hard questions at times",
WE decided to split the difference, half the guns , unloaded and cased , facing both directions...it was a good question I thought...puzzled him. I finally decided later on just easier to put them in the back seat...I still felt funny having a trunk "up front".
I miss the old oil cans...what the hell am I supposed to do with the oil can punch/ pour tools I have?
Sure as hell don't work on Coconuts?
Post by: K Frame on April 13, 2006, 04:21:21 PM
Beer shooters.
Post by: grampster on April 13, 2006, 05:09:42 PM
No matter how long it sat in the filler while we pumped gas, there always was a residue.
I used to tip used cans up over another empty can and over the course of a couple of days, I'd have a full can of oil to put in Ole Bess, my '53 Chibby coupe. We were selling gas for 31.9 in those days, with an occasional gas war that shoved the prices down to 17.9 or so. Hell that won't pay the tax on gas today. For your 17.9 we pumped your gas, washed your windows, checked your fluids and air pressure in the tires. Sigh......
Post by: Guest on April 13, 2006, 08:49:41 PM
I do not drink, might try it with a soda.
Post by: richyoung on April 24, 2006, 10:35:33 AM
When does 80-95% of engine wear occur? At start-up - when there is NO oil on the parts. Dino or synthetic (made from coal), clean or dirty, 3, 5, or 10,000 miles - dosn't matter. Its sitting in the crankcase, not between wear surfaces. Yes, you can change it every 3000 miles. You can also change it every day. All you are doing is wasting money and creating more waste oil to be disposed of. If your oil "looks dirty", that means hte detergent in it is doing its job. Change at the maximum interval you manufacture recommends. As for high mileage, highway miles on a warmed up drivetrain and suspension aren't particularly harmful. Look at trucks - they are built out of the same stuff, run similar oils, haul heavier loads, and routinely exceed a million miles.