Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Devonai on July 06, 2015, 06:42:18 PM
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So I finally took the motorcycle safety course, and I'm on my way to get the endorsement on my license. My girlfriend has an '85 Honda VF500C that she no longer wants, and has agreed to transfer it to me versus the costs of repairs. However, after tinkering with it for a few days, her dad has concluded that the engine compression is bad and thinks it needs to be rebuilt. I have no idea how much that would cost. So, plan B?
I had zero riding experience before the course. Now I'm familiar with a Honda 250 Nighthawk. I hadn't intended on going on the highway until I've had some practice, so in my mind a 250 isn't out of the question for a starter bike. I intend to commute to work (a whopping three miles one way, surface streets) until I'm more comfortable. However, I think I can handle up to a 500 without killing myself. Style-wise, I like street cruisers and cafe lines.
Any suggestions?
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What do you weigh? I found that buying smaller bikes results in almost immediate upgrade being required
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Need to know more. Intended usage, desired performance/fuel economy. Price range. Passenger or no?
My first instinct is an older SV650 if you're into sport bikes. something like the 650ish CC boulevards if a cruiser is more your style.
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Assuming you haven't owned a motorcycle before, Start with $500-1000 for gear. Leather is best, Cordura is next, everything else sucks.
The MSF basic course will run $200-400 depending on where you take it.
For the bike, don't be concerned with what you actually want for a bike now, that will change the first year you ride. Start with a 10-20 year old Japanese bike that is 500, 650, or 700 cc that isn't a supersport, like a Honda CB, Kawasaki EX, Yamaha Virago etc. It should be less than $2K. As long as everything is straight and works, don't worry if it's already been dropped because you're going to drop it again. You want something to learn on that you won't lose too much resale when you sell it to someone else that's learning to ride in a year or two. By then you will have a better idea what you want.
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What do you weigh? I found that buying smaller bikes results in almost immediate upgrade being required
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That's more important than a lot of people realize. Also very important is your inseam. In my opinion based on almost 40 years of riding being able to put both feet flat on the ground is important for a beginner.
I'd consider a BMW R1200GS Adventure but I don't have the inseam for it.
I'm quite a bit out of date on what is available but my experience is that anything under 650cc is gonna have you wanting a bigger bike way too soon for most people's wallets.
All of the big 4 Japanese makers are quality bikes. The trick is finding a used bike that hasn't been neglected and abused.
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I've caught the bike bug as of late. Currently looking for one. It will be my second bike. Owned one in the 80s whike in W Germany.
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I'm 200 lbs soaking wet, 30" inseam. The Nighthawk fit me perfectly. Intended use for the rest of this season is commuting to work.
My first instinct is an older SV650 if you're into sport bikes.
I love the styling of the SV650 (without the fairing), actually. I also like this one, which is only a few miles from my place:
http://hartford.craigslist.org/mcy/5102611649.html
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What's your budget? Be sure to factor in at least $500 for gear (minimum of a GOOD helmet, jacket, and gloves.)
I've see a fair number of well-kept 80s/90s cruisers and UJMs locally in the $1500-$3000 range. A year ago I almost bit the bullet on a 750 Magna that looked like it just rolled off the showroom and had a full service history.
Brad
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Go big or stay at home......
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2F0603%2FBob8251%2FRandomness%2FRocketad1_zpsd0c29c74.jpg&hash=31df26e1b817f7bb6609628bbb6a841bd774f408)
Oh wait, you said first bike, maybe you should wait a while on the R3.
Really, a 500-750cc bike leaning toward a SV650 would probably suit you fine and you wouldn't need to upgrade for a couple of years. Don't look at as your first bike and go small, look at it as a learning bike that can last you a couple of years before you get the itch to go bigger.
bob
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I'm 200 lbs soaking wet, 30" inseam. The Nighthawk fit me perfectly. Intended use for the rest of this season is commuting to work.
I love the styling of the SV650 (without the fairing), actually. I also like this one, which is only a few miles from my place:
http://hartford.craigslist.org/mcy/5102611649.html
Bikes that are supposed to have fairings and don't are almost always the result of someone wrecking and not replacing the plastic, not a "street fighter mod" as they always say in the ads.
Bedlamite has good advice.
Don't get a 600cc or larger supersport. 500-750cc for a UJM or cruiser is fine.
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Not sure if its true today but insurance would go up rapidly above 750
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Not sure if its true today but insurance would go up rapidly above 750
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This is true.
Can confirm that SV650 is stupid fun for the $$. Plenty of ponies for a first machine.
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Wife sold motorcycle insurance. She would get young men who paid more for one year of full coverage on a crotch rocket than they paid for bike
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6'2 210 pounds 36" inseam. What size bike?
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6'2 210 pounds 36" inseam. What size bike?
If its your first, you need a mid size motor in a large frame.
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*stuff*
I've enjoyed my 650 V-Star(yamaha, cruiser). Enough go for one rider on the highway, but don't expect much past 80. Going on 7 years, haven't dropped it yet(crosses fingers). It was one of the only bikes short enough for me to get both feet on the ground.
One thing to be aware of is that having a shop do the maintenance is expensive, but you'll want a lift to do it yourself.
I'm with Battle Monkey - a 650 is enough power to have fun with, but not beyond controllability for a new rider.
I was in your situation 7 years ago, except I learned on a 125cc Harley.
Shop around - you might actually find a seller willing to let you take a test drive. I was planning on highway riding from the first, so I get on the highway, do about 2 miles, not on the bike I was considering buying, but a model about 5 years older. After assuring myself that I could handle it and liked the ride, that highway trip had me immediately have them put a windscreen on my bike - and I do NOT regret that.
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I'm sure folks here have me beat in riding experience. I am well versed in cheap bikes.
Cheap bike usually isn't. Cheap bikes need repairs pretty much always. If nothing else, there is guaranteed to be neglected maintenance.
Mileage doesn't matter. Bikes die from sitting more than they get worn out. Gas turns to sludge, rubber hardens, rust creeps in. Figure on $3-400 to recommission an old bike. You might luck out with less, but don't expect it.
"It runs fine" and "needs nothing" are from the same book as "check is in the mail". Even if the seller is not out to purposely screw you, they almost always don't know as much as they think. "Ran fine when parked" is quite hilarious.
Check tires. They can look good, but be ancient, and not particularly safe. "New tires x years ago" are not new.
Mechanics to work on old bikes are hard to find. Better be willing to learn to do what you need to do.
Not all brands are equal in parts availability, or even information. Yamaha parts listings are available online all the way back to 1970's, or even earlier. Kawasaki... not so much.
My first functional bike was an XS400. I am 200-210 pounds, depending on how close I am to a holiday. I ran that thing all over town. 60-70 mph on the highway was perfectly doable. Long trips on something like that aren't great, though.
Bikes that are supposed to have fairings and don't are almost always the result of someone wrecking and not replacing the plastic, not a "street fighter mod" as they always say in the ads.
I'm going to be looking to sell my FJ1200 as a "streetfighter project" soon. It's the one I crashed last year... :)
One thing to be aware of is that having a shop do the maintenance is expensive, but you'll want a lift to do it yourself.
A lift? Must be a cruiser thing. I've done everything using the bike's own center stand, including taking off front and back wheels.
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A lift? Must be a cruiser thing. I've done everything using the bike's own center stand, including taking off front and back wheels.
'most' cruisers don't have a center stand.
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I've never had any of my bikes up on a lift: if I need more than "up on kickstand", I use a jack and jackstands. Never had any problems.
Do NOT get an obscure scoot: Bedlamite can tell you all about the issues I've had with my first bike ('86 Kaw ZL600). That's the biggest advantage Harley has: they make basically the same bike for decades (there's something like 20 years my Sporty was made). That issue can make a bike you love into a lawn planter.
Don't go too small "just to start out". Better to get a 5-600cc, and have more than you think you need. Your self defense on a bike is already in your right hand, and you want it to be able to do the job. Also: freeway may be faster speeds, but at least all the idiots are (usually) going the same direction
DEFINATELY get the safety gear, and wear it. I choose to be foolish: just starting out, you need to go ATGATT (All The Gear, All The Time). To be safe, you want to dress for the crash
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Bikes that are supposed to have fairings and don't are almost always the result of someone wrecking and not replacing the plastic, not a "street fighter mod" as they always say in the ads.
Bedlamite has good advice.
Don't get a 600cc or larger supersport. 500-750cc for a UJM or cruiser is fine.
There were a number of years where the SV650 came from the factory without fairings
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There were a number of years where the SV650 came from the factory without fairings
Many sport bikes also have a street fighter fairing less variant. But they're less common and you can generally tell if the bike originally had plastic or not.
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I wouldn't pass on a Suzuki GS500 or a Kawasaki Ninja 500 or Ninja 650 either. Despite the "Ninja" name the 500 and 650 are pretty good bikes.
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I suggest the new Kawasaki H2R (http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/2015-Ninja-H2R)
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DEFINATELY get the safety gear, and wear it. I choose to be foolish: just starting out, you need to go ATGATT (All The Gear, All The Time). To be safe, you want to dress for the crash
This.
I got to test my gear last year. It wasn't great gear that day, just heavy leather jacket an some kevlar-lined jeans, but I kept my skin and walked away with only a broken thumb and a blue buttcheek. Was real happy to have a helmet on when head hit pavement.
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I'm probably going to buy a Kawasaki 650 KLR in the next 12 months, all depends upon where I land a new job in the next few weeks.
I'm going to use it for commuting to work and screwing around on the weekends.
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Pass on the kz750 twin. For old KZs you want the model with 4 cylinders not 2. I started on a kz550ltd and had to learn a lot of repair and troubleshooting in the first few years. It looked great but it had typical problems from being neglected. I loved that little 4cyl engine once it was properly sorted out. My midsized vintage bike today is a cx500 and I'd trade it for a nice old KZ in a heartbeat.
If cruisers are your thing the world is full of excellent "starter" sized bikes that people got for their wives and were never ridden, or ridden shortly before moving to something larger. You really can't go wrong with anything relatively new from the Big 4, just find a good one that's been maintained. If you can afford it pay extra for fuel injection, and if you're not inclined to begin a motorcycle workshop be sure to get a belt or shaft drive too.
The new variety of standard motorcycles are still on the sporty side of things IMO but the <500cc class is opening up again. If you're buying newer check out the current Honda cb500 series of bikes, they will be be similar-ish in size/performance to the often recommended sv650. You can do a lot with smaller machines but for the occasional weekender or road trip you will miss the cubes and storage. We have 4 motorcycles and they all have luggage racks or travel bags.
If you like your 250cc Nighthawk maybe check out the new Ninja 300. You will have to get your butt onto a lot of bikes in person to really make a decision. Window shopping is fun but you could hate riding what you love the looks of. I have never owned a new motorcycle and would get carried away telling you what I'd like to buy rather than what you ought to buy for yourself. Just don't buy anything that needs work or is costly to repair. Pay extra up front for something you know is good. If you need to pay a shop for that kind of advice or warranty you should do it. Nothing worse than pulling out a repair manual when you'd rather be riding.
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Ducati 1199 superleggera.
Kidding of course.
I second SV650. They are available cheap, easy to fix, tons of aftermarket support, and fun as balls.
(I actually race one in CCS lightweight after switching from my Ducati for racing)
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A Suzuki V-Strom DL650 has the same motor as the Sv650, but a much more comfortable (for me) upright riding position. ABS brakes, fuel injection, a great ride. Same horsepower and torque as my old dream bike, a 1970 Honda CB750k.
Only drawback is that it really needs an aftermarket windscreen from California Scientific. Before that, at highway speed, it was like having your head in a paint-can shaker. After that, smoooooooth sailing.
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^^^After many years of owning various motorcycles, often more than one at a time, I have had my Suzuki DL650 for three years now, and am quite happy with it.
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A Suzuki V-Strom DL650 has the same motor as the Sv650, but a much more comfortable (for me) upright riding position. ABS brakes, fuel injection, a great ride. Same horsepower and torque as my old dream bike, a 1970 Honda CB750k.
Only drawback is that it really needs an aftermarket windscreen from California Scientific. Before that, at highway speed, it was like having your head in a paint-can shaker. After that, smoooooooth sailing.
I still am of the opinion that the DL650 is the best all-around motorcycle on the market. My 1000 even, did quite well at everything, including passing squids on GSXRs at a track day
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Any opinions on Royal Enfield? I could buy an Ishapore .308 to go with it.
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Any opinions on Royal Enfield? I could buy an Ishapore .308 to go with it.
They didn't use enough threadlock at the factory, so you need to watch for bolts loosening, you need to adjust valves pretty much every time you ride until the parts break in, and you might want to order a spare bottom end bearing, they have a habit of siezing occasionally. Other than that the reliability has improved over the years and it can be a fun bike if you're not in a hurry.
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Speaking seriously now, taking the MSF Course was a great 1st step! The suggested gearing up is MANDATORY! Road rash SUCKS! BTDT, got the scars. The suggestion not to buy too small a bike is a good one. A 250 is fun off road and will get ya to the corner store but is not going to cut it i traffic. I would look at something in the 450cc to 600cc area. That will be acceptable as your skills and your desire to ride more increase (and they will).
Me? I have been on motorcycles since I was 8. Started racing at 9. Even was a top 10 finisher in a National Enduro race. Been riding on the street since I was 18 and still have my MC endorsement. Even though I couldn't ride more than a block without being in pain, I am still involved with the DoD MC (http://denizensofdoom.com) in a few positions. If ya wanna hang out with some cyber biker/geek types, check us out.
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I made a decision. I got a 1986 Yamaha YX600 Radian in excellent condition for $1400. It's got 15k miles, 66hp, and weighs 430 lbs dry. I've taken it around my apartment complex, and had no trouble with the basic controls, but I can't take it out onto the street until I register it next week. But it's mine, and I am happy so far.
=D
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10676420_10153136390767023_691168225717820431_n.jpg?oh=641456bb3020d1d22f6f16e68ee05bb9&oe=564A06B8)
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Excellent buy!
Brad
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Very good. Low miles. My '08 has that many on it!
66hp? That's more than my bike as well.
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I made a decision. I got a 1986 Yamaha YX600 Radian in excellent condition for $1400. It's got 15k miles, 66hp, and weighs 430 lbs dry. I've taken it around my apartment complex, and had no trouble with the basic controls, but I can't take it out onto the street until I register it next week. But it's mine, and I am happy so far.
=D
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10676420_10153136390767023_691168225717820431_n.jpg?oh=641456bb3020d1d22f6f16e68ee05bb9&oe=564A06B8)
Nice looking bike but who's the goofy looking goober in the picture with it?
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Just the local wanna-be writer/hack with the conversational acumen of a bowl of crushed oreos.
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I am officially an old fart so I get to toss out unsolicited advice ! =D
Time to find a damn good rider in your area to train with. Especially braking and cornering. Also judgement and situational awareness. You will not believe the stuff a biker will be aware of, that a car driver never even thinks about.
Maybe go buy a copy of "Proficient Motorcycling" by Dave Hough.
IMO, commuting is the most dangerous thing you can do on a bike- it guarantees lots of traffic, and distracted and tired drivers. Please spend some time away from traffic while you get up to speed.
And check your tires date- regardless of tread, old rubber gets hard and loses grip.
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I've enjoyed my 650 V-Star(yamaha, cruiser). Enough go for one rider on the highway, but don't expect much past 80.
Considering that Devonai lives in Connecticut, where the fastest speed limit is 65 and that's only on a few sections of Interstate, not being able to cruise over 80 should not be an issue.
Long ago, I had a Honda Nighthawk 450 and that was plenty of bike for anything other than cross-country touring -- and wouldn't have been horrible even for that.
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Considering that Devonai lives in Connecticut, where the fastest speed limit is 65 and that's only on a few sections of Interstate, not being able to cruise over 80 should not be an issue.
I've only ever approached 80 in clear sections of highway during 'testing'. Maxed out right around 80 mph, and it was very much the engine, stability was perfectly fine.
Long ago, I had a Honda Nighthawk 450 and that was plenty of bike for anything other than cross-country touring -- and wouldn't have been horrible even for that.
One of the interesting quirks. I supposedly only get 40 hp from my 650cc engine, but Devonai is getting 66hp from a 600cc one*. Your 450 is rated for 45 hp, though at 9k RPM, while mine only needs 6.5k RPM, of course.
*Internet says 52@9k (http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_yx_600_radian_1986.php)
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Devonai, enjoy the read.
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/virginia-to-alaska-and-back-on-an-86-yamaha-radian.831213/
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Radians are nice bikes. They are a parts-bin creation, using a lot of the parts of the XJ series. Engine is the same as an FJ600.
Most parts you are likely to need are available, either direct from Yamaha, or from a couple of places I know. Give me a holler if and when it comes time to fix it - I got sources and info.
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Fatalities per mile driven on a motorcycle are 26X greater than in a car.
I wouldn't do it.
They are called donorcycles for a reason.
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And the Wet Blanket award goes to...
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Devonai, enjoy the read.
Wow, what an epic trip. Thanks for the link!
BTR, I've grown weary of huddling in my basement with a jumpsuit made of bubble wrap. It was too difficult to eat applesauce while checking the chamber of my AR every five minutes.
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Fatalities per mile driven on a motorcycle are 26X greater than in a car.
I wouldn't do it.
They are called donorcycles for a reason.
Goody for you.
Why exactly were you compelled to tell us this? Most people in this thread have been riders for years, some for decades. Pretty sure someone here is or was a riding coach. Do you think we do this because we are blissfully unaware of this little tidbit?
I seriously don't get it. It happens all the time. I've had random people IRL walk up to me and tell me they would never get on a bike, upon seeing me dressed in riding gear. What drives this desire to tell a guy with a bike that you are afraid of them and that they are oh so dangerous? What reaction do you expect to receive? "Ohnoes! Thanks for telling me! I'll be selling the demon machine tomorrow! Thanks, bud, you saved my life!" Or what?
By way of a personal anecdote, the worst injury I've had, a leg broken in three places, I got while walking.
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My girlfriend once broke her ankle in five places when she slipped on some ice right outside of her place of work. She needed two plates and three screws put in place for five years. Shtuff happens. Everywhere.
The chances of me being shot by some doofus in the lane next to me drops to zero if I never visit the range. The chances of tripping and falling into a campfire are zero if I never build a campfire. As I alluded to in my last post, we assume a certain amount of risk just by walking out the door each day. Yes, motorcycles are far more dangerous than cars. Just practicing in my apartment complex today I almost got creamed by two drivers who apparently thought I wasn't serious about my turn signals. What would have been a fender-bender in two cars would have been a trip to the hospital for me. I get it.
The sense of freedom one gets from a motorcycle was something of which I was quite dubious until I took the safety course. It's fun. So is kayaking, hiking, martial arts, and a host of other activities that carry some level of inherent risk. Thankfully we still live in a country where we can make those choices for ourselves.
Foremost on my mind is avoiding the attitude of "it can't happen to me." As it happens, the Air Force requires me to wear all of my protective gear all the time, even off duty. Perhaps after several years of riding I might be tempted to omit the jacket, but the choice is not mine. Still, I'm going to do my darndest to remember that out there, I'm the gnat, and the whole world is a flyswatter.
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Fatalities per mile driven on a motorcycle are 26X greater than in a car.
Devonai has taken a great first step in avoiding the biggest motorcycle fatality subgroup: DoD people back from their deployments buying a 1k cc and larger crotch rocket(sport bike), and putting their helmet-less head into something at around 100mph on their first ride.
First, he took the BRC FIRST. This instills a good base learning
Second, he's getting a standard motorcycle ~600cc, not a liter bike.
Third, going by his picture he's wearing protective gear. We see a motorcycle jacket with armor and a full helmet. I'm not as up on the pants.
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Fatalities per mile driven on a motorcycle are 26X greater than in a car.
I wouldn't do it.
They are called donorcycles for a reason.
Well thank you for that little bit of enlightenment. ;/
https://rideapart.com/articles/an-open-letter-to-every-person-i-meet-who-finds-out-i-ride-a-motorcycle (https://rideapart.com/articles/an-open-letter-to-every-person-i-meet-who-finds-out-i-ride-a-motorcycle)
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Fatalities per mile driven on a motorcycle are 26X greater than in a car.
I wouldn't do it.
They are called donorcycles for a reason.
Fatalities per mile driven on motorcycles are HEAVILY skewed by folks who aren't properly trained, are riding much too powerful bikes for their skill, and don't wear PPE. All of which Devonai is avoiding.
In case you're wondering how I'm qualified to make such an assertion, I've been an MSF ridercoach for years now. There's a lot of data. Go take a look at the MSF's accident data. Particularly accident causes and the nature of fatal injuries.
Hint: head injuries on helmetless heads, combined with the "failure to maintain adequate control of the motorcycle" are the leading circumstance for fatalities
Contrary to popular belief (and riders wish it wasn't true), the old "he turned left in front of me" just isnt the biggest problem
You're basically using the same argument as "Having a gun in the house makes you 26x more likely to die from one" BS that the anti's use. Educate yourself
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My girlfriend once broke her ankle in five places when she slipped on some ice right outside of her place of work. She needed two plates and three screws put in place for five years. Shtuff happens. Everywhere.
The chances of me being shot by some doofus in the lane next to me drops to zero if I never visit the range. The chances of tripping and falling into a campfire are zero if I never build a campfire. As I alluded to in my last post, we assume a certain amount of risk just by walking out the door each day. Yes, motorcycles are far more dangerous than cars. Just practicing in my apartment complex today I almost got creamed by two drivers who apparently thought I wasn't serious about my turn signals. What would have been a fender-bender in two cars would have been a trip to the hospital for me. I get it.
The sense of freedom one gets from a motorcycle was something of which I was quite dubious until I took the safety course. It's fun. So is kayaking, hiking, martial arts, and a host of other activities that carry some level of inherent risk. Thankfully we still live in a country where we can make those choices for ourselves.
Foremost on my mind is avoiding the attitude of "it can't happen to me." As it happens, the Air Force requires me to wear all of my protective gear all the time, even off duty. Perhaps after several years of riding I might be tempted to omit the jacket, but the choice is not mine. Still, I'm going to do my darndest to remember that out there, I'm the gnat, and the whole world is a flyswatter.
I'm a fellow military rider and have to wear all that PPE too. Resist the urge omit the jacket. There are plenty of good mesh jackets that are cool when riding and will still save your hide. It was hot enough today that my bike vapor locked but the mesh jacket was relatively comfortable. As for the rest of what you wrote? You are spot on. I kayak, surf, mountain bike and hike because it is fun. Riding always makes a bad day better.
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I'm a fellow military rider and have to wear all that PPE too. Resist the urge omit the jacket. There are plenty of good mesh jackets that are cool when riding and will still save your hide. It was hot enough today that my bike vapor locked but the mesh jacket was relatively comfortable. As for the rest of what you wrote? You are spot on. I kayak, surf, mountain bike and hike because it is fun. Riding always makes a bad day better.
The man speaks truth. Once moving, the mesh jackets feel like they aren't there.
That said, I sometimes ride with only a protective vest and gloves, along with the proper footwear and lid. I know i shouldn't. :-S
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The man speaks truth. Once moving, the mesh jackets feel like they aren't there.
That said, I sometimes ride with only a protective vest and gloves, along with the proper footwear and lid. I know i shouldn't. :-S
Wouldn't it be quicker to simply say that you ride without pants on?
I wish I could find the image(hopefully photoshopped) of a guy with his feet, in flip-flops, on the handlebars of the bike, no helmet, no gloves, shorts, and reading a cell phone.
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Wouldn't it be quicker to simply say that you ride without pants on?
I wish I could find the image(hopefully photoshopped) of a guy with his feet, in flip-flops, on the handlebars of the bike, no helmet, no gloves, shorts, and reading a cell phone.
LOL
This one?
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also this made me LOL
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LOL
This one?
Very similar. Could even be the same guy, but the one I remember had him heading towards the left, looking at a cellphone like that.
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also this made me LOL
Having recently taken a short flight and landing on the pavement, this makes me cringe.
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I'm not going to post the pic of the guy riding in a mankini. Google it yourself if you really want to.
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I made a decision. I got a 1986 Yamaha YX600 Radian in excellent condition for $1400. It's got 15k miles, 66hp, and weighs 430 lbs dry. I've taken it around my apartment complex, and had no trouble with the basic controls, but I can't take it out onto the street until I register it next week. But it's mine, and I am happy so far.
=D
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10676420_10153136390767023_691168225717820431_n.jpg?oh=641456bb3020d1d22f6f16e68ee05bb9&oe=564A06B8)
Cool bike :cool:
It looks similar, but yet different, than the 84 XJ that I learned with. Should be a great bike.
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When someone dies in a motorcycle crash people go on and on about how dangerous motorcycles are. When someone dies in a car crash they get in their car and drive to the funeral.
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If anyone wants to get me a really, really nice Christmas present, I'll take one of these.
http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/07/24/2016-honda-crf1000l-africa-twin-adventure-motorcycle-review-photos-specifications-new-details-released/
Don't know why I have such a soft spot for adventure bikes. Just sumtin' about 'em....
Brad
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Anyone looking for a good jacket?
http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/leather+motorcycle+jackets/shift_diablo+leather+jacket
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The man speaks truth. Once moving, the mesh jackets feel like they aren't there.
That said, I sometimes ride with only a protective vest and gloves, along with the proper footwear and lid. I know i shouldn't. :-S
You also should have a really nice active cooling vest lying around that some guy who is apparently a really good friend got you for a birthday present :)
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Why didn't anyone tell me?
I've been doing 30+ miles a day, separate from my commute to work.
Why didn't anyone tell me? Or did you, and I wasn't paying attention?
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Why didn't anyone tell me?
I've been doing 30+ miles a day, separate from my commute to work.
Why didn't anyone tell me? Or did you, and I wasn't paying attention?
Don't worry, it gets worse...
Brad
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Why didn't anyone tell me?
I've been doing 30+ miles a day, separate from my commute to work.
Why didn't anyone tell me? Or did you, and I wasn't paying attention?
Sorry, I was out riding.
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Why didn't anyone tell me?
I've been doing 30+ miles a day, separate from my commute to work.
Why didn't anyone tell me? Or did you, and I wasn't paying attention?
I used to tell myself my bike saved on gas but I put on so many extra miles just wandering around that I don't think I'm saving money.
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I used to tell myself my bike saved on gas but I put on so many extra miles just wandering around that I don't think I'm saving money.
My bike saves on gas, but once you figure on things like tire changes...
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Friend of mine took his bike into the shop to fix a flat on his rear tire and wound up with a new bike.
The dealership started showing him all the other things that were going to need replaced and he figured what the hell.
He actually got a 2015 for less money than he spent on his 2012 when it was new.
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Non-motorcycle owner, here.
Hey, did you know...?
Nah, I figure y'all know the odds of painful personal kersplat increase when you remove the 3000+lbs of steel from around your body while at speed and go al fresco on the road. And considering I take a Fred-powered bicycle on the road, I really have no kickstand to prop up yet another "motorcycles be dangerous" harangue.
What I would like to comment on is that I have been seeing a lot more riders dressed in what looks like modern-day armor on motorcycles. Helmet looks like they always did. But some rather obvious plates/padding on chest/back/arms, as well as some sort of stiffeners in the pants. Heavy boots and gloves, too. Definitely not the crotch-rocket uniform of t-shirt, shorts, and flip-flips I recall seeing many times in high school.
Is that the "ATGAT" that I see bandied about? Looks....hot. As in, "sweating your nads off" hot.
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For my own part, wife & I have cut out the riskiest pastimes until after the kids are 18YO or out of college. SCUBA, sky diving, motorcycles are just a few things on the "Wait until dependents gone" list. Of course, our youngest's graduation present (to ourselves) is likely to be "His & Hers" what I think are called dual purpose motorcycles for the missus & myself. A girlfriend in college had one and it seemed like it was made from concentrated fun. Powerful enough to tote my bulk (at the time) real fast but went anywhere we wanted to go, road or no road.
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What I would like to comment on is that I have been seeing a lot more riders dressed in what looks like modern-day armor on motorcycles. Helmet looks like they always did. But some rather obvious plates/padding on chest/back/arms, as well as some sort of stiffeners in the pants
A lot of the mesh/textile pants/jackets/gloves have that kind of armor on the elbows/shoulders/back/knees and high impact plastic/steel/kevlar inserts in the gloves/boots standard, but it's on the inside.
I'm guilty of not always wearing the best pants- usually just jeans, kevlar overpants when its raining/cooler, but I always wear a DOT/SNELL helmet, either a heavy leather jacket or mesh jacket, kevlar gloves, and steel-toed boots while on the bike.
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(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbulitt.smugmug.com%2FMotorcycles%2FTrips%2FAlaska-2010%2Fi-VvZ9pcB%2F0%2FM%2F134343304-M.jpg&hash=c4920526c896b949b4bb8dada866b810c55b07be)
Regarding sweating your nads off, this is what I wear for most of my riding: the Olympia Phantom suit. Heavy duty Cordura shell with soft flexible armor at the knees, elbows, shoulders, hips and spine. It is my hope that the color will minimize the chance of someone 'not seeing me' and colliding with me, and that the suit will minimize the number of skin grafts and/or fracture fixations that I may require. When it gets above 80 degrees (relatively rare in Seattle), I park the bike and take the car instead because wearing the suit over my business attire means that I am boiling like a lobster in a bag in our stop-and-go commuting traffic.
The cognitive dissonance for me is I wear this on the motorcycle, yet when I am on the road bicycle zipping downhill at 30 miles per hour, I am wearing essentially underwear (spandex shorts and jersey) and an ice bucket (styrofoam helmet) on my head.
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Mesh pants worn over underwear are actually more comfortable than shorts. Because airflow EVERYWHERE.
I try to wear reinforced jeans as much as possible. When it's cooler, I wear heavy leather touring pants and change at the office.
In last year's crash I wore a classic leather jacket from River Road - very thick leather and a kidney pad built in, no armor. Kept skin attached, but I had a goose egg on my elbow. Had kevlar-lined jeans, got a dime-size rug burn from the jeans twisting around the leg. Had a spot on the knee where denim wore through, but kevlar held up.
This year's crash I wore a PowerTrip mesh jacket with leather sleeves and armor in forearms/elbows/shoulders/back. Slight bruise on elbow, pads held up. Had jeans with hard pads, no leg damage, except a bone bruise where I landed on my heel.
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(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbulitt.smugmug.com%2FMotorcycles%2FTrips%2FAlaska-2010%2Fi-VvZ9pcB%2F0%2FM%2F134343304-M.jpg&hash=c4920526c896b949b4bb8dada866b810c55b07be)
Regarding sweating your nads off, this is what I wear for most of my riding: the Olympia Phantom suit. Heavy duty Cordura shell with soft flexible armor at the knees, elbows, shoulders, hips and spine. It is my hope that the color will minimize the chance of someone 'not seeing me' and colliding with me, and that the suit will minimize the number of skin grafts and/or fracture fixations that I may require. When it gets above 80 degrees (relatively rare in Seattle), I park the bike and take the car instead because wearing the suit over my business attire means that I am boiling like a lobster in a bag in our stop-and-go commuting traffic.
The cognitive dissonance for me is I wear this on the motorcycle, yet when I am on the road bicycle zipping downhill at 30 miles per hour, I am wearing essentially underwear (spandex shorts and jersey) and an ice bucket (styrofoam helmet) on my head.
I see a lot of people wearing hi-vis colors as of recent- it beats the heck out of pavement colored gear.
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I see a lot of people wearing hi-vis colors as of recent- it beats the heck out of pavement colored gear.
Back when I was a paramedic, and taking care of bicyclists and motorcyclists who had been run over by cars, I would sometimes talk to the driver that struck them, and inevitably, the driver would say 'I never saw them'. Ever since, I try to wear high-viz when I am on the motorcycle or bicycles, just to try and stack the odds in my favor. It is no magic bullet, but I figure that every bit helps.
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It's Air Force policy for ATGATT, even off duty, which is fine by me. I might be tempted to get a 3/4 helmet for back roads but my full helmet will be used on the highway.
Currently I have a padded mesh jacket in hi-vis yellow with 3M material all over it. When the weather gets cooler I have a padded leather jacket and a hi-vis vest to go over it. Right now I don't have riding pants though.
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Back when I was a paramedic, and taking care of bicyclists and motorcyclists who had been run over by cars, I would sometimes talk to the driver that struck them, and inevitably, the driver would say 'I never saw them'. Ever since, I try to wear high-viz when I am on the motorcycle or bicycles, just to try and stack the odds in my favor. It is no magic bullet, but I figure that every bit helps.
The last jacket I bought on closeout, they didn't have any yellow or orange left, but I scored one that is reflective white, front and back.
http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street/closeouts/mesh_jackets_and_pants/tour_master/intake_air_series_3_jacket.html
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I was only hit once by a car. From behind, at a stop sign. I don't think any high vis clothing would have helped-she expected me to run the stop sign, like everyone else did. What might have helped, and what i have on my bike now, is a flashing LED display linked to the brake lights.
Motion attracts vision- a headlight modulator might be a good idea. Any more, I assume every person on the road is going to pull out in front of me, rear end me, pass into my lane, or any other hair-brained action possible. I stay away from cars and trucks as much as possible.
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I've been hit.
Woman did a U-turn in the middle of the Harvard bridge (mass ave between Boston and Cambridge), and pushed me laterally about 3-4ft (bumper to boot to peg), and then drove off.
I didn't crash, and my Sidi's saved my ankle.
I pressed charges (hit and run).
Gear saved my ankle.
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How many Smoots was that?
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Fatalities per mile driven on motorcycles are HEAVILY skewed by folks who aren't properly trained, are riding much too powerful bikes for their skill, and don't wear PPE.
In last year's crash I wore a classic leather jacket from River Road - very thick leather and a kidney pad built in, no armor. Kept skin attached, but I had a goose egg on my elbow. Had kevlar-lined jeans, got a dime-size rug burn from the jeans twisting around the leg. Had a spot on the knee where denim wore through, but kevlar held up.
This year's crash I wore a PowerTrip mesh jacket with leather sleeves and armor in forearms/elbows/shoulders/back. Slight bruise on elbow, pads held up. Had jeans with hard pads, no leg damage, except a bone bruise where I landed on my heel.
The synthesis of the content of these two posts is telling us something, I suspect, though I don't have the experience/data to properly suss it out.
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I made a decision. I got a 1986 Yamaha YX600 Radian in excellent condition for $1400. It's got 15k miles, 66hp, and weighs 430 lbs dry. I've taken it around my apartment complex, and had no trouble with the basic controls, but I can't take it out onto the street until I register it next week. But it's mine, and I am happy so far.
=D
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10676420_10153136390767023_691168225717820431_n.jpg?oh=641456bb3020d1d22f6f16e68ee05bb9&oe=564A06B8)
LOL my brother just rode his harley down from Colorado and spent a few days with us. I'm a short dude, and his bike is like almost a thousand pounds. Big and heavy. I sat on it and took it off the stand that's about as far as I got.
But I've always wanted to ride. I've not ridden a bike since maybe 20 years ago, riding dirt bikes.
Seeing that Yamaha of yours increases the temptation
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LOL my brother just rode his harley down from Colorado and spent a few days with us. I'm a short dude, and his bike is like almost a thousand pounds. Big and heavy. I sat on it and took it off the stand that's about as far as I got.
But I've always wanted to ride. I've not ridden a bike since maybe 20 years ago, riding dirt bikes.
Seeing that Yamaha of yours increases the temptation
I'm 6'4" 250ish- the first (2nd, 3rd, 4th...) time sitting on a full sized harley was intimidating to me too.. not a beginner's bike.... in fact their so-called 'beginner's bike' (Sportster) isn't a great beginners bike either- they are way too top heavy.
I work with a guy who has owned a Road King for about 5 years and has only rode it twice- he's afraid of it.
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The synthesis of the content of these two posts is telling us something, I suspect, though I don't have the experience/data to properly suss it out.
We still occasionally lose a trained person wearing PPE on a cruiser or standard motorcycle, but when you read the accident reports you realize that they'd often still be just as dead if they were in a car or other vehicle short of something armored.
Stuff like 'oncoming car crossed the median...'
Where you get the most deaths though, are things like 'Squiddies'. Probably because they're traditionally navy, though with current ops other services have caught up some.
You have a junior enlisted get back from a deployment, pocket full of sea pay(or deployment). They go out and buy a 'cool bike', paying cash for a 1k or so CC sport bike. They haven't ever ridden a motorcycle before, and they take off, barely knowing the controls, without a helmet or other safety gear, and splat themselves into something unmoving at high velocity because they don't even know how to stop, much less turn.
When they detailed the deaths of the year once, over half of them were violating regulations and were within their first month of riding - no BRC, missing significant PPE(like helmet), etc...
The sport bike category was so bad by itself that they were putting together supplemental training for them when I left. Without them motorcycles were only a little elevated in danger over cars.
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I know it's a repro, but I find my pants getting tighter just the same
http://houston.craigslist.org/mcd/5182635303.html
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The synthesis of the content of these two posts is telling us something, I suspect, though I don't have the experience/data to properly suss it out.
Not necessarily...I've crashed at least three, maybe 4 times...I don't remember. All low sides. gravel for one, wet paint strip + cut off by taxi for two, and a crash or two at least on the track. I would classify my riding skills as "adequate" (given that up until 2010 i raced in a regional series and would place top-10). When it comes to crashing, it's a U-shaped distribution. Newbs crash, then get better, then start pushing limits (hopefully on the track) and crash more due to lower margin.
Most professional racers will crash -multiple-, if not many, times per season (mainly in practice)
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Found one for roo_ster:
(https://cdn.rideapart.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/fabulous.jpg)
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What the.., kill it with fire!
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Found one for roo_ster:
(https://cdn.rideapart.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/fabulous.jpg)
That is...a remarkable piece of hardware. Unique, even. Or hopefully (unique), because two of them might be cause for worry. About daring Fate to send us Lucifer's Hammer.
Not necessarily...I've crashed at least three, maybe 4 times...I don't remember. All low sides. gravel for one, wet paint strip + cut off by taxi for two, and a crash or two at least on the track. I would classify my riding skills as "adequate" (given that up until 2010 i raced in a regional series and would place top-10). When it comes to crashing, it's a U-shaped distribution. Newbs crash, then get better, then start pushing limits (hopefully on the track) and crash more due to lower margin.
Most professional racers will crash -multiple-, if not many, times per season (mainly in practice)
Gotcha.
I am assuming these are rather minor crashes, then? Even so, it has got to be hard on rider & bike.
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That is...a remarkable piece of hardware. Unique, even. Or hopefully (unique), because two of them might be cause for worry. About daring Fate to send us Lucifer's Hammer.
Gotcha.
I am assuming these are rather minor crashes, then? Even so, it has got to be hard on rider & bike.
Depends. Generally great riders push it in relatively safe conditions. A get off on the track can be extremely minor, even given the higher speeds and more aggressive riding. Then there's *expletive deleted*it like supermoto, where multiple crashes per day are a sign you're pushing hard enough ;-)
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I am assuming these are rather minor crashes, then? Even so, it has got to be hard on rider & bike.
Bike, yes, but that's what spares are for.
Rider, eh, bruises, but that's what leather and armor are for. Every time I've thanked my gear and upgraded.
hell, the gloves I have now have zero cow...all 'roo and stingray. Suit is all roo. Them hoppity bastards make for good leather.
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Stingray leather is even tougher than 'roo.
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Stingray leather is even tougher than 'roo.
Yup, that's why I have it in my gloves. Held Phantom II, Best gloves I've ever had...and I've had quite a few.
When racing you rapidly learn that gear is where it's important to not cheap out. Good gloves are bucks...but make all the difference. These protect like steel, but have great feel.
Also, with any leather product proper break-in and forming is key.
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Held gloves are the nicest ones I have ever felt.
I have a Held tankbag, but it always makes me worry. I wish it was a "Hold" . =D
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I've had 3 sets from Held, nothing fits better. I get about 5 years out of a set, and the fingertips are getting thin on my current Thrux gloves. I don't like that a lot of their newer gloves have a perforated palm and fingers.
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Last night the check oil light came on for the first five minutes of a 30 minute ride. After work I'll check the oil level, but I don't know what weight of oil to buy if I need to add some. Any suggestions?
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Download a pdf manual if you can
I've used the cheap rotella T from Wally World in many a Japanese bike
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Last night the check oil light came on for the first five minutes of a 30 minute ride. After work I'll check the oil level, but I don't know what weight of oil to buy if I need to add some. Any suggestions?
Wal-mart: Shell Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 at $ 7 per quart. I have been using this consistently over the years in a variety of motorcycles and scooters.
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Last night the check oil light came on for the first five minutes of a 30 minute ride. After work I'll check the oil level, but I don't know what weight of oil to buy if I need to add some. Any suggestions?
Have you changed the fluids yet? If not, might as well, you don't know what level of maintenance the former owner kept up. While you are at it, might as well check everything and get to know your bike inside and out.
On my recently purchased bike, I'm finding that the former owner was an astounding idiot- stripped oil pan plug, rear wheel out of alignment by 1/4" (spec is +/- 1/32"), unoiled K&N filter, no seat screw (he gave me some bullshit biker wisdom about not having to carry a screwdriver to remove the seat if there was a problem on the road), front tire mounted backwards (he told me it had good tires, but date codes say otherwise, and carbeurator over jetted.
Its taken me a few weeks to sort through everything and I have new tires in the mail right now, but never assume that the previous owner was competent in anything related to motorcycle maintenace.
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Thanks for the tips.
The previous owner had it in the shop for routine service and carbs cleaning in April. My girlfriend's dad, who has a lot of personal experience with bike repair, said it's in good condition. I won't assume anything but there's only so much my untrained eye can tell me. So far I've logged 500 miles on it and the oil light is the only issue.
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Second the oil change. Also, automotive oils may work well in some motorcycles. Others, not so much. The newer EPA regs have led to friction modifiers in some oils, which can cause slipping of motorcycle wet clutchs. Will it in yours? I don't have a clue- but it is not an imaginary concern.
Also- did you check the oil level? And the switch connections?
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As someone mentioned a few posts back, look for a .pdf owners manual online.
Also search you model online, there is almost certainly an active forum somewhere about your model of bike, where you can learn just about every hard learned trick in the book along with what oils to put in your engine/primary case(s).
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Motorcycle oil threads are the bastard stepchildren of the 9 mm vs. 45, or the JMB 1911 vs. Glock threads. Never ending, arguments pro and con, and in the end, there is no accounting for taste.
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I just don't want my pistons, which are pretty much pointed directly at my junk, to do their impression of a Kosmos-3M at highway speed.
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Don't remember if I posted it on this thread or not
When I took the MSF course (lo, those many years ago), the last year they had crash data available for listed 100 motorcycle fatalities in WI. Of those, something like 70 were Harleys, not sport bikes
At a guess, that was a combination of middle managers having midlife crises (but no experience riding), and idiots taking their bike out bar hopping
For the record: Spoon rides a Road King. Has no problems
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FTR dm1333 rides a Harley and has no problems either! I don't doubt the statistic or the theory that mid life crisis bikes and a lack of experience were big contributors. I'm pretty tired of watching people wobble all over the road on low mileage, never ridden in the rain Harley's. Riding comfort bikes on a paved trail would have been a much healthier choice for a lot of riders!
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I've seen a number of people that shouldn't even be on a bicycle, let alone something with an engine
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Last night the check oil light came on for the first five minutes of a 30 minute ride. After work I'll check the oil level, but I don't know what weight of oil to buy if I need to add some. Any suggestions?
The oil light on those engines is an oil level light, where the oil light you might know from cars is an oil pressure light. The sensor for the light is just a float in a small tube bolted into the oil pan. If there is enough sludge in the pan, it can collect in the sender and make it stick after a bump. Or, you could just have low oil.
Checking oil means getting the bike up on the centerstand (checking on the kickstand will make you think you got no oil at all) and looking at the sight glass on the bottom right of the engine. There is no dipstick. There should be a mark, but the general rule is you should have a small bubble at the top of the glass.
Wal-mart: Shell Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 at $ 7 per quart. I have been using this consistently over the years in a variety of motorcycles and scooters.
5W seems a little thin to me. Yamaha says 10W-40 or 20W-50, depending on climate. I use 20W-50. Yamalube at the dealer can be surprisingly cheap - I've bought it for $12 a gallon on sale. At Walmart, I buy whatever they have for motorcycle oil. I think they have Castrol?
Second the oil change. Also, automotive oils may work well in some motorcycles. Others, not so much. The newer EPA regs have led to friction modifiers in some oils, which can cause slipping of motorcycle wet clutchs. Will it in yours? I don't have a clue- but it is not an imaginary concern.
People on Yamaha forums have reported that problem on the straight-4 engines. There isn't enough of a price difference between motorcycle and automotive oils for me to take that chance.
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I just don't want my pistons, which are pretty much pointed directly at my junk, to do their impression of a Kosmos-3M at highway speed.
Low oil will probably make you fry your clutch first, thereby preventing you from getting to highway speeds in the first place. =D
Every kaboom I've heard of on those engines involves either spitting of chunks down or forward, or a hole in the piston.
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5W seems a little thin to me. Yamaha says 10W-40 or 20W-50, depending on climate. I use 20W-50.
The first number doesn't really matter. It describes the weight of the oil during cold start in the winter, hence the "W". How often do you start your bike at 0F? Even then, it warms up right away, and a lower weight circulates quicker. The second number is much more important, it's the viscosity at 212F, and If you look in your owners manual, they even specify different weights for different ambient temps. It's not one weight for all applications.
The owners manual for my bike says to use anything from 10w30 to 20W50 depending on the temp if 0W40 is not available, and there is a range for each with a lot of overlap. I prefer using the heavier weight and let it warm up for a minute before riding:
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.suzukisv1000.info%2Fimages%2Fmisc%2Foil_chart.gif&hash=d15e986cd192836402ad943eeb4ec93d78dd2df1)
All Shell Rotella grades are actually JASO MA and MB certified, which is the certification Japanese motorcycle manufacturers use in Japan. It's our stupid laws that make them specify API rated oils that are not intended for motorcycles. This is why they all specify SE, which was the last API spec without friction modifiers and even API says it's obsolete, and to use the newer SN which can kill your clutch. API doesn't even consider Motorcycles for their ratings.
http://www.whitedogbikes.com/whitedogblog/choosing-the-right-motorbike-oil-what-does-jaso-and-jaso-ma2-mean/
Here's the manual for the Radian, it says API SE 10W30 below 60F or 20W40 above 40F on page 5-4:
http://www.badrad600.com/Radian%20Manuals%20-%20Complete%20-%20Printable/Radian%20Owner's%20Manual%20Clean%20Complete%20Final.pdf
I'd use RotellaT 15W40 without a second thought in the Radian. It's $12/gal at every Mal-Wart everywhere in the country.
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Yamalube at the dealer can be surprisingly cheap - I've bought it for $12 a gallon on sale. At Walmart, I buy whatever they have for motorcycle oil. I think they have Castrol?
This (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MISCLQ) is what I bought last time, on sale for a really good price. Should do me for 4 oil changes.
Since I exist at cooler temperatures than most, I went with 10W-40. At least, it's what all the dealers go with.
It's a bit thinner, and things are cooler enough here that it probably flows a bit better.
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Wow, excellent info, thanks everybody.
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The first number doesn't really matter. It describes the weight of the oil during cold start in the winter, hence the "W". How often do you start your bike at 0F? Even then, it warms up right away, and a lower weight circulates quicker. The second number is much more important, it's the viscosity at 212F, and If you look in your owners manual, they even specify different weights for different ambient temps. It's not one weight for all applications.
The owners manual for my bike says to use anything from 10w30 to 20W50 depending on the temp if 0W40 is not available, and there is a range for each with a lot of overlap. I prefer using the heavier weight and let it warm up for a minute before riding:
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.suzukisv1000.info%2Fimages%2Fmisc%2Foil_chart.gif&hash=d15e986cd192836402ad943eeb4ec93d78dd2df1)
All Shell Rotella grades are actually JASO MA and MB certified, which is the certification Japanese motorcycle manufacturers use in Japan. It's our stupid laws that make them specify API rated oils that are not intended for motorcycles. This is why they all specify SE, which was the last API spec without friction modifiers and even API says it's obsolete, and to use the newer SN which can kill your clutch. API doesn't even consider Motorcycles for their ratings.
http://www.whitedogbikes.com/whitedogblog/choosing-the-right-motorbike-oil-what-does-jaso-and-jaso-ma2-mean/
Here's the manual for the Radian, it says API SE 10W30 below 60F or 20W40 above 40F on page 5-4:
http://www.badrad600.com/Radian%20Manuals%20-%20Complete%20-%20Printable/Radian%20Owner's%20Manual%20Clean%20Complete%20Final.pdf
I'd use RotellaT 15W40 without a second thought in the Radian. It's $12/gal at every Mal-Wart everywhere in the country.
In addition to using rotella T in my v-strom , my superhawk, etc etc.... I also used this
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html
That'll tell you which pureOne or similar AUTO filter will fit your bike. Lots of good info there.