Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: RevDisk on March 18, 2017, 07:38:38 PM
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Haven't seen much from anyone else on the subject. At work, I appropriated a spare MakerBot Replicator because no one was using it. Since a customer paid for it, it didn't come out of anyone's budget. I actually had a legitimate purpose for midnight requisitioning...
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Frevdisk.org%2Fprojects%2Fsensor%2Fsensor01-05.jpg&hash=d92c5be572b364a659cfe7ee04896fbe40d6f6a6)
Basically, I've been looking for a cheap, small, low power, WiFi temperature sensor for a while now. I've played around with a bunch of different systems, and none of them have worked as well as I'd like. I was looking for something else when I came across the ESP8266 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13231). $16, <200mA power draw, 2.5cm x 5.5cm and indeed has WiFi. Better yet, charges off MicroUSB and has a battery connector built in.
There's no commercial case for sale, so I had to make one anyways. I went with a free web based CAD project, AutoDesk TinkerCAD, to make the design. Very friendly, took about 5 to 10 minutes to figure out how to make pretty complicated designs. I was even able to nest two cylinders to pre-drill mounting holes. Design took about 30 minutes. Even using very accurate digital calipers for measurements, I did have to make a couple of mm changes here and there to get everything lined up. I could have easily just drilled the holes out on the second prototype, but new toy. Fourth prototype worked fine. Case weighs about 20 grams combined. No adhesives, all pressure fit.
Definitely nifty. I don't know if I'd pay $2000 for the printer. It has nice software. You can monitor your printer via phone app, which is nice. If your model is screwed up, you can pause or cancel the print without having to nurse the printer for hours. I'm personally eyeing up the $200 printer from Monoprice. 4.7" x 4.7" x 4.7" printing area. I've found good quality plastic on Amazon for $20 ish per kilogram.
When I was stuck at work today I played around with some other devices.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Frevdisk.org%2Fprojects%2F3d_models%2FOther%2F18650Carrier-01.jpg&hash=410187983eb08df74ad902c74849b7fe142c0a04)
Carrier for 18650 batteries that I try to use anywhere I can. Rare earth magnets were precisely fitted by hitting with a hammer.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Frevdisk.org%2Fprojects%2F3d_models%2FMicroSDHolder%2FMicroSD_Holder.png&hash=0db82175389fab2f1ab1749ea9e85dc8bc70d947)
Forgot to snag a picture at work. I've been looking for some way of organizing/holding MicroSD cards for a while. Knocked this design out in about 15 minutes. 16 grams of plastic. Planning on making one for full sized SD cards. We have a ton of both from video projects.
Anyone else have a printer? Ideas for stuff to design?
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You'll print a gun, and put your eye out, kid.
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I'm trying really hard to get hired at a company that does 3d printed prototypes. Because the job looks good plus I want access to the machines to help me with my evil schemes.
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You'll print a gun, and put your eye out, kid.
Never saw the real appeal other than proof of concept. Metalwork isn't that hard, just find a mini mill.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/minimill_compare.php
You can sometimes time them on eBay for good rates.
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The business I mentioned earlier does direct metal laser printing. It's not just plastic. And several companies are printing concrete houses.
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Never saw the real appeal other than proof of concept. Metalwork isn't that hard, just find a mini mill.
Yeah, but a 3-D printed plastic ghost gun can go through metal detectors and shoot down airplanes, and can be programmed to target only gay black Jewish Hillary supporters. And puppies.
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Just put this together last weekend.
https://youtu.be/D20NBqD5S6E
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Just put this together last weekend.
https://youtu.be/D20NBqD5S6E
Thoughts? Also, weren't you working on 26.5mm projectiles? Have the STL files handy?
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I like the idea of an SD and MicroSD card older. I can never keep them buggers organized. Might have to tinker with one of the printers we've got in the robotics lab.
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I like the idea of an SD and MicroSD card older. I can never keep them buggers organized. Might have to tinker with one of the printers we've got in the robotics lab.
http://revdisk.org/projects/3d_models/MicroSDHolder/MicroSD_Box.stl
Can copy and paste. Official standard dimensions for MicroSD cards are: 15mm × 11mm × 1 mm (0.591×0.433×0.039 in)
I printed a SD holder, but it was too big and sturdy. Wasted a lot of plastic.
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Thoughts? Also, weren't you working on 26.5mm projectiles? Have the STL files handy?
It's pretty good. Definitely worth the money.
I'm having a lot of adhesion problems just printing PLA getting reacquainted with 3D printing, but none seem to be the printer's fault.. (Or Fistful's)
Fiddling with bed leveling.
Fresh 3M blue painter's tape.
PVA gluestick.
Cheap/inferior PLA filament that came with the kit.
Starting with 60° C bed heat like the printer's and Cura slicers default for PLA but turning it off after the first three layers are done. Conversely, turning off the print cooling fan for the first three layers too, then turning it on for the rest of the print.
And I'm slowly getting there. Each step has made things better.
I am getting some ripples that's probably caused by slack in the Y-axis belt the bed runs on, so I'm printing off the tensioner from Thingiverse right now. That too was causing issues, because parts of brim adhesion support had gaps, giving no support at all.
The tensioner, a brace for the front end of the base for extra rigidity, a filament guide loop, an overhead spool holder, holder caps for the tops of the Z-axis screws, a power supply terminal cover with mountings for a plug, fuse, and 110v switch (as it comes from the kit, it's a terminal screw and suicide-cord arrangement...), and an improved cooling duct are probably all "must have" printed upgrades.
I do have some .obj or .stl files for the 26.5mm I'll go dig them up.
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Double tap.
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I'm strongly eyeing the Monoprice 3D printer. 5 inches cubed is a decent workspace. And most importantly, it can handle every type of filament. I was thinking of experimenting around with different media. I'd shoot myself before doing that with a Makerbot, which has crap extruders that are the same price as the entire Monoprice 3D printer.
Tho I see Anet A6 is roughly same price and does 8.7 x 8.7 x 9.8. How expensive are replacement extruders? Also, try using two belt tensioners.
Other option I'm eyeing up is a Kossel parametric delta printer. Which can do a circular 8 plus inches by a foot. Any reason why you chose the A6 in particular? I figure that any < $1k printer is going to require a decent amount of legwork and not natively have networking.
I figure whatever I buy, I can network somehow. Absolutely worst case, I plug it into my media PC. And I figure I'll be making a case for whatever I buy anyways.
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What features would one look for in a 3D printer? I'd kinda like to have the capability in my shop, but don't have specific projects in mind. (Projectiles for my RV-85 would be cool) The ability to knock out little things, or prototype stuff before making it out of metal would be handy too.
Something like this (https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15710&seq=1&format=2) seems like it'd be pretty handy, for a decent price.
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It's pretty good. Definitely worth the money.
I'm having a lot of adhesion problems just printing PLA getting reacquainted with 3D printing, but none seem to be the printer's fault.. (Or Fistful's)
Hmm. One thing that MakerBot does is rafting. Where it does a wide wiggle pattern, then does a thin solid platform, then a very weak layer then your object. Obviously, it wastes filament (which since Makerbot recommends only using their filament, they encourage), but I've never had a bad print that wasn't due to my model. I can snap a photo.
It seems slightly excessive to a thin pad of material, but very effective.
What features would one look for in a 3D printer? I'd kinda like to have the capability in my shop, but don't have specific projects in mind. (Projectiles for my RV-85 would be cool) The ability to knock out little things, or prototype stuff before making it out of metal would be handy too.
Something like this (https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15710&seq=1&format=2) seems like it'd be pretty handy, for a decent price.
I've had a long and very positive experience with Monoprice, with orders sometimes in the thousands or tens of thousands of cables. Honestly, there really isn't anywhere else that I'd unhesitatingly buy a couple thousand 6 inch or 12 inch cat5e patch cable. Generally, one in a thousand is bad. Always buy a couple more than you need and you're fine. I have buddies that have ordered even larger bulk purchases for wiring entire data centers.
Lately they've made a niche of producing "good but not great products for very reasonable pricing" products. They do this apparently by watching Amazon, see what has great reviews for low cost, buying one and directly ripping off the design. This became a bit too obvious that Monoprice was doing this with the Energy Take Classic 5.1 (the absolute BEST budget priced home theater sound package). Klipsch version was $399, Monoprice version was $250. Sound quality was damn near indistinguishable. Naturally Klipsch sued.
It's a bit sketchy on respecting patents and ripping off other people's ideas/designs. But ye fluffy gods do they put out incredible quality for the price products.
Hence why I'm strongly looking at their products. I'll be looking for a teardown review of it, because there's a high likelihood it's a copy of someone else's product. Probably enough that parts are interchangeable. Probably go for the $300 version but we'll see.
Edit: 30 seconds of googling says the Maker Select is a rebranded Wanhao i3. Which is a ripoff of the Prusa i3. Well regarded. So, yes, aftermarket parts and upgrades are ubiquitous.
http://www.thingiverse.com/Malys/collections/duplicator-i3-mods
https://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/collections/brand-new-2017 (parts, all the parts)
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I'm strongly eyeing the Monoprice 3D printer. 5 inches cubed is a decent workspace. And most importantly, it can handle every type of filament. I was thinking of experimenting around with different media. I'd shoot myself before doing that with a Makerbot, which has crap extruders that are the same price as the entire Monoprice 3D printer.
Tho I see Anet A6 is roughly same price and does 8.7 x 8.7 x 9.8. How expensive are replacement extruders? Also, try using two belt tensioners.
Other option I'm eyeing up is a Kossel parametric delta printer. Which can do a circular 8 plus inches by a foot. Any reason why you chose the A6 in particular? I figure that any < $1k printer is going to require a decent amount of legwork and not natively have networking.
I figure whatever I buy, I can network somehow. Absolutely worst case, I plug it into my media PC. And I figure I'll be making a case for whatever I buy anyways.
The Anet A6 is the newer version of the A8. The Z-axis lifter rails for the X-axis is more stable, a horizontal pair of slide rails ending in laser-cut acrylic boxes like the rest of the frame. Which also gives you another inch of vertical Z-area in your print. Probably the biggest improvement is a rotary click-push encoder which allows you to navigate the menu much much faster vs. the 5 button D-pad style arrangement on the A8.
I went with the Anet because it seemed like the printer with the most "community support" out there of the cheap printers. And went with the A6 because of it's minor improvements. I think the hot ends are like $6 or so. And then another few dollars for replacement brass nozzles.
I have been using brim and raft... if I want one, I just have the Cura slicer, either the embedded one in Repetier, or the stand-alone Cura make it. But then when I was having trouble, the brim or raft wasn't sticking either. However, getting extra-anal about bed leveling, using thin receipt printer paper instead of typing paper to gauge my first layer gap, adding the PVA glue stick layer, and turning off bed heating after three layers, and turning on fan cooling after three layers seems to have fixed everything.
As a Prusa clone, it runs the Marlin firmware, so it's got a lot of mods and updates out there you can add to it. And as such you can add networking, or a Raspberry Pi WiFi webserver to Running OctoPi/OctoPrint to monitor/control the printer and use it's camera to watch the print.
If you want to go even cheaper, there's a Clone-of-Anet-A8-Clone-of-Prusa-i3 called the Tronxy. (Tron-XY? "Tronksy"?) that has decent reviews that's only about $150.
I'd add an additional belt tensioner, but the way it's laid out, I don't know where they'd fit. Although there are 3D printed mounting blocks on Thingiverse for the belt that go under the bed carriage that have some extra adjustment over the two acrylic blocks and screws that clamp the belt down.
I thought about a Delta/Kossel printer, but I'll wait until I've got something tall enough I really want to print before I get into that. I hear they're not that hard/different to operate. Bed leveling/adjustment while thinking in polar coordinates seems to be the biggest challenge/learning curve for most people.
Here's all the 26.5mm stuff I've made in Sketchup to date. It needs some work. Mainly the projectile is a bit under-bore, but that could be good if you want low pressure, or it's being fired from a 26.5 flare pistol that really just generates all it's pressure at the case anyway. I was just going to add some "driving band" ribs to the body so they had some "squish" in the bore of my RV85.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3G7qcjFKpsVZFVtQ2dhS095QUk?usp=sharing
The plug end and fins are sized for a tight fit in the single-stage American Specialty Ammo 26.5 lathe-turned aluminum case that uses black powder and a 209 shotgun primer. If you're re-using a European 26.5 flare case, you're going to want to re-adjust the size and make it wider so it fits snugly.
http://www.americanspecialtyammo.com/26_5mm.html
(note, you want to put a 1" OD plumbing O-ring over the body against the rim to get good headspace in an RV-85 so the firing pin will contact the primer properly. Or on any 26.5mm flare case, since the RV85 has the thicker chamber rim for it's high pressure CS gas rocket/darts.)
If you want to play with the files and tweak the design, I recommend importing the .skp files from SketchUp to whatever you're using for CAD. Importing them straight as .STL puts a ton of unnecessary angles and vertices into the model.
I also need to go back in and re-work the fins and the fuse hole, make a fillet or web between the center and the fins for more strength, and make the fuse hole bigger/wider to accommodate green or red Visco fuse. My ultimate aim was to make a master for molding in silicone and then using Smooth-On brand 2 part polyurethane. Although a well adhered ABS projectile or nylon might hold together under firing with a modest charge. Maybe they'd work even better if you acetone vapor-smooth it to get complete fusion of the external skin of the print...
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Cool stuff.
We're getting a few 3D printers where I work for employees to do personal projects with. Looking forward to messing around with that.
I've been slapping together a cnc table for my plasma cutter over the past few weeks. 3D printers have helped make controls and parts commodity items.
I started off toying around with using LinuxCNC to drive it off the parallel port, but have decided a better approach is Grbl (https://github.com/grbl/grbl)running off an Arduino uno. Grbl nicely handles eating G code. CNC shields that support Pololu A4988 stepper drivers (Or knock offs) are common and cheap. (here (http://www.dx.com/p/cnc-shield-v3-a4988-stepper-driver-for-ramps-1-4-reprap-3d-printer-448489), for instance) For the front end, I've been using Universal GCode Sender (https://winder.github.io/ugs_website/). I'm walking cad files through dxf2gcode (https://sourceforge.net/p/dxf2gcode/wiki/Installation/) , although for some things, I just hammer out g code. I don't have a good torch height controller setup worked out yet.
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What I'd like to do is graft a 500-1000mW 405nm violet laser head onto the extruder carriage, and then alternately be able to use it as a laser cutter/engraver/burner for paper/wood/plastic. I'm sure it's been done already. Ideally, I'd like to leave it all set up so I don't have to change anything and the proper gcode will just activate one or the other seamlessly.
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What I'd like to do is graft a 500-1000mW 405nm violet laser head onto the extruder carriage, and then alternately be able to use it as a laser cutter/engraver/burner for paper/wood/plastic. I'm sure it's been done already. Ideally, I'd like to leave it all set up so I don't have to change anything and the proper gcode will just activate one or the other seamlessly.
Mmmmm... turret 3D printer!
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I'd love a system where you could replace the head between a 3D printer, a laser engraver/cutter and mill/drill. I think it's still at least ten years out to be economical. All exist at reasonably affordable levels now. But it is far cheaper to have them as separate units than combined.
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You'll print a gun, and put your eye out, kid.
Hmmm. Glocks're boring. Print me up a KT Sub 2000.
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Hmmm. Glocks're boring. Print me up a KT Sub 2000.
LOL... those break even with Keltec's original plastic. :laugh: (And very glad I have the earlier aluminum Sub9...)
I did print this overnight, a large geometric twisted vase with sides only two layers thick, with no supports or infill.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft33%2FAJ_Dual%2Fimage-170820_zpsaplvthhz.jpg&hash=f6e668da8e0e9d290caa8ceb4b0afeaf6b8ee9fc) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/AJ_Dual/media/image-170820_zpsaplvthhz.jpg.html)
I will probably start with a Ruger 10/22 receiver shortly. My SBR'd Ruger Charger has had almost every part replaced, so I have a barrel, a fire control group, the original laminated stock for it, all I'm lacking is a receiver and a bolt. Probably won't even ever use it. Just fit it all together to say I did it.
Another one that is piquing my interest from the DEFCAD/FOSSCAD mega-pack of files is a .177 parlor pistol that uses 209 shotgun primers.
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Had a bit of a "Well, it is the 21st century" moment today. Someone on the shop floor was mounting a metric ton of circuit boards for (cell provider customer). He had a plastic spacer that was too large and getting in the way of the mounted push buttons. He was hand sanding down the mounts to get them to fit. Since "electronics", he assumed IT could do something about it. Which, of course, we did. We had about a mm of clearance to play with.
I naturally, fired up amazon and was browsing. Found some fits but was kinda "meh" about ordering a bunch of different kinds to see what worked. Then I noticed something in the corner of the screen...
https://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Washer-Off-White-Nominal-Thickness/dp/B000FN1GI2/
"Downloads: CAD models, MSDS, Manuals"
Clicked on it and was thinking of firing up Inventor or AutoCAD to take dimensions. Took me about honest thirty seconds to say to myself "Uhm. Moron. Why not just 3D print it and see if it fits." 3 minutes and 0.8 grams of PLA thermoplastic later, shocked shop floor guy has sample in hand, printout of what to buy and is doing a test fit. Normally it apparently takes a week to get samples in. Not 5 minutes. Mission accomplished.
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Here's some ideas. NSFW though.
http://www.yeggi.com/q/butt+plug/?s=tt
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Are any of these big enough to print a lower ??
What I would be looking at doing is print a lower and then investment casting it in aluminum. Then taking those to the periodic "Gun Buy-Backs" hosted by the various do-gooders in Chicago. I figure we can turn in ten lowers a buyback and making $1000-$2000 per. (yes, we would carve serial numbers into each mold. No, we would not sell any, just turn them in.)
=D =D =D
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Are any of these big enough to print a lower ??
What I would be looking at doing is print a lower and then investment casting it in aluminum. Then taking those to the periodic "Gun Buy-Backs" hosted by the various do-gooders in Chicago. I figure we can turn in ten lowers a buyback and making $1000-$2000 per. (yes, we would carve serial numbers into each mold. No, we would not sell any, just turn them in.)
grin grin grin
An AR-15 Lower is 7.503 +.000/-.006 from the center of the pivot pin hole to the back face of the receiver extension boss. Add .125 for the hole and maybe .0625 for the pin mount and you get 7.6905"
The printer I linked to and asked Rev about in my post prints 7.9x7.9x6.9, so it should spit out a lower pretty easily. You can probably angle it on the print bed and have a little extra room.
That said, 3D printing is cool, but for your plan, one of these kits (http://ar15mold.com/freedom-15-5-kit/) and a bunch of resin would have a better return on investment.
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What features would one look for in a 3D printer? I'd kinda like to have the capability in my shop, but don't have specific projects in mind. (Projectiles for my RV-85 would be cool)
Stop putting ideas in my head.
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Are any of these big enough to print a lower ??
What I would be looking at doing is print a lower and then investment casting it in aluminum. Then taking those to the periodic "Gun Buy-Backs" hosted by the various do-gooders in Chicago. I figure we can turn in ten lowers a buyback and making $1000-$2000 per. (yes, we would carve serial numbers into each mold. No, we would not sell any, just turn them in.)
=D =D =D
Too much work. Silicone mold and cast them in resin. Or just make zip guns like I did last year:
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi328.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl342%2F1k_wayne%2Fguns%2F20161202_130102.jpg&hash=3b8c10f08429aed774b18f63450313e388c57895)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi328.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl342%2F1k_wayne%2Fguns%2F20161203_193500.jpg&hash=ac6194276c61cb7eedf44444998ccc7eb84be3d5)
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You all are missing the point.
3D printer to do more than just make AR Lowers. You know, to play with.
Plus we have a ton of aluminum... and are going to build this foundry: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHD10DjxM1g
So it's more then just lowers. We will probably make other "stuff" with both...
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Are any of these big enough to print a lower ??
What I would be looking at doing is print a lower and then investment casting it in aluminum. Then taking those to the periodic "Gun Buy-Backs" hosted by the various do-gooders in Chicago. I figure we can turn in ten lowers a buyback and making $1000-$2000 per. (yes, we would carve serial numbers into each mold. No, we would not sell any, just turn them in.)
=D =D =D
Very easily, actually. http://www.cncguns.com/downloads.html
Initial estimate from the Solidworks file I looked at was 200 grams of material, 7 hours to print at 'lowest settings'. Mind you, that could wildly change depending on how you want to print it. Completely solid? 3x material and time. Honeycombed interior, 2x.
PLA is $20-60 per kilo. So you could probably safely make two or three castable lowers from one spool of material, then use green sand aluminum pours. I mean, you're not worried about safety or whatnot.
What features would one look for in a 3D printer? I'd kinda like to have the capability in my shop, but don't have specific projects in mind. (Projectiles for my RV-85 would be cool)
Stop putting ideas in my head.
AJ already made the models. I plan on doing some tweaking. They need tweaking, but that's fairly common as 3D printers are not always super accurate. Funny enough, their inaccuracy varies on X, Y and Z independently.
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You all are missing the point.
3D printer to do more than just make AR Lowers. You know, to play with.
Plus we have a ton of aluminum... and are going to build this foundry: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHD10DjxM1g
So it's more then just lowers. We will probably make other "stuff" with both...
The Chicom Anet a6 could easily churn out a lower. And if you want to cast your own Al ones a 3D printer is the way to go, because you're going to want to make it about 2% oversized for the nominal shrinkage of cast metal. You can even make it real thin with just minimal honeycomb inside so it prints quicker and uses less filament. You can even just put your mold in a hot fire and burn all the plastic away, and in CAD you can stick whatever kind of sprue funnels and vents you need to right onto the model.
I just moved mine from the dining room table and to it's more or less permanent home in the workshop battlestation. The only space I had for it was one of those crappy plastic shelves which had some sag to it. So today I bought a 1/8" sheet of masonite so there was a solid surface covering the grid of plastic slats. Then I put a heavy 3/4" thick board of MDF over that, but first I put several felt pad screw feet into it so I could level it, then checked with a little machinists bullseye bubble level and a stick level. If you've got a good level place to put it, that much effort isn't required, but it will make the printer a bit quieter, because all the whining of the stepper motors tends to make a table act like a sounding board...
Now I can go back to controlling the printer from my PC in realtime when I want to, instead of having to stick files on the micro SD card. Although I eventually want to set up a Raspberry Pi WiFi webserver for the printer that can watch it through a webcam so I can at least kill a print from my phone if it starts going wrong from wherever I am.
I also need to print off a bunch of clips and edges so I can make a plexiglass box for the printer so I can keep it clean, and keep the air inside at a stable warm temperature so larger prints in ABS don't warp on me.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft33%2FAJ_Dual%2FFFF2383B-0A6F-4AE1-8720-568BEF8AB526_zpsawppmtyk.jpg&hash=64fc2b223928e0fca66b0b96fd17fb9ca0db6df0) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/AJ_Dual/media/FFF2383B-0A6F-4AE1-8720-568BEF8AB526_zpsawppmtyk.jpg.html)
The leveling feet.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft33%2FAJ_Dual%2F432280C4-2A59-46D3-B7CC-D241176257FB_zpsuw0lmsrx.jpg&hash=eedaa9464e3256297b4e10a2f25fa4d57053a20c) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/AJ_Dual/media/432280C4-2A59-46D3-B7CC-D241176257FB_zpsuw0lmsrx.jpg.html)
Checking for level and adjusting.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft33%2FAJ_Dual%2FCF809559-9526-4F84-A92C-AD7EB2230B95_zpsqpvtcvw0.jpg&hash=0b939a67b7c3eb348a6a1456b2c7ef6eb67c710c) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/AJ_Dual/media/CF809559-9526-4F84-A92C-AD7EB2230B95_zpsqpvtcvw0.jpg.html)
Printer set up, and checking it's print bed for level. On the money..
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Modicum of success tonight. Everything fit at least. And I can cycle the bolt, and dry fire it.
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft33%2FAJ_Dual%2FE7B41DE4-9809-4958-90C2-41E7FE60C352_zpsko9fjjsw.jpg&hash=25abf75e05c33343776ce79c7d837efe74083ca6) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/AJ_Dual/media/E7B41DE4-9809-4958-90C2-41E7FE60C352_zpsko9fjjsw.jpg.html)
(https://armedpolitesociety.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi156.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft33%2FAJ_Dual%2F9DF5511A-DB5D-443D-B1EA-4A2844F9FF8C_zpsciecaovs.jpg&hash=9e4192ec1ed87a81ca1cdc908df4c30f486925d1) (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/AJ_Dual/media/9DF5511A-DB5D-443D-B1EA-4A2844F9FF8C_zpsciecaovs.jpg.html)
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I think you have to at least put a CB cap or Colibri through it.
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Too many projects and hobbies. I really don't need another machine in my garage...
AJ, where'd you order yours from....? :)
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Where I work we have 3 3D printers in our Rapid Prototype lab. One is an older, but still excellent SLA. I think they've had that one for 12 years or so. We also have an FDM based printer that can do several different plastics, including high-temp tolerant plastics. The new one we just got maybe 4 months ago is pretty trick. I'll have to look up the details on it, but it can do multiple materials (including rubber) in the same part, and an almost infinite range of colors.
They tried to get funding for a metallic printer but that wasn't approved for this year. There's lots of expectations that we'll get that one next year. Most likely they'll get rid of the SLA to make room.
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Too many projects and hobbies. I really don't need another machine in my garage...
AJ, where'd you order yours from....? :)
I got the Anet A6 from Gearbest.
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Thread necro so as to present the newest frontier in 3D printing:
https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/forget-everything-you-know-about-3-d-printing-mdash-the-replicator-is-here/
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Thread necro so as to present the newest frontier in 3D printing:
https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/forget-everything-you-know-about-3-d-printing-mdash-the-replicator-is-here/
I saw this a year or two ago. It's a big step forward for SLA (Sterolithography) printing, although there's some downsides, you need a much bigger tank of the resin so the image can be projected into it. Regular SLA printers that use light and resin can pull from a much shallower tank. There's even ones that use a phone or a tablet for the image/light source to polymerize the resin. And I imagine that getting it all bubble free is probably a bit of a PITA. But the "printing something around something" ability is probably the biggest boon I see.
How about this for 3D printing?
https://liberator12k.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFEojfcL5tU
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Interesting to see where I was in this thread vs. where I am with two printers at home now.
I've made gun that shot (once), a mag that works repeatedly, I have the files for both AR and Glock lowers, as well as designing and making non firearm things. I really like the idea of that shotgun, and am going to bookmark his page.
Cool stuff there.
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Yeah, I've printed Glock magazines that work fine in my G26. I cheated and bought actual Glock OEM springs as they're cheaper
than Wolf, but I could have wound my own if I really wanted to I guess.
And I've got that entire AR 9mm lower that takes Glock magazines too. I really need to buy an upper for it one of these days and figure out how to put the ejector into it.