Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Brad Johnson on September 10, 2017, 10:39:55 PM
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Kenmore washer, model 110.21252112. Washes through the cycle until it gets to Spin. The Spin light comes on but it never starts the cycle. I can pause it (press the Start/Pause button once), give it a few seconds, then continue (press the Start/Pause button again) and it kicks into the spin cycle like nothing was ever wrong. Presuming it's probably the timer but wanted to ask the Brain Trust and see if there are other possibilities.
Brad
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I am drunk and exhausted will pull up tech info on model number in the morning.
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I am drunk and exhausted will pull up tech info on model number in the morning.
Best Answer Ever !!!!
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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Mine started that way, then started tripping the breaker, ended up the motor crapped the bed. Washer was 20 years old so I found a commercial maytag on sale for $400 (last day of sale fyi)
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"ended up the motor crapped the bed."
The timer unit motor, or the main drive motor?
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That little timer knob is actually hooked to a control board. The board get's info from the lid lock, motor, actuator and other things to go into spin. I've only had to put one control board in but many lid locks and actuators. Not sure where to tell you to start without being in front of it.
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"ended up the motor crapped the bed."
The timer unit motor, or the main drive motor?
Main drive motor
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That little timer knob is actually hooked to a control board. The board get's info from the lid lock, motor, actuator and other things to go into spin. I've only had to put one control board in but many lid locks and actuators. Not sure where to tell you to start without being in front of it.
Lid lock engages on schedule. All other cycle functions seem timed properly. The only indication of an issue is when I walk in and it's sitting there with the SPIN light on but nothing happening. I tape the Start/Pause button once, the light starts blinking and the lid latch disengages just as it's supposed to. I tap the Start/Pause button again, the lid latch engages, and it begins a normal (and normal sounding) spin cycle, finishing as it always has. I do recall hearing an interesting noise from the laundry room but can't decisively say it was related to the no-spin condition.
Is this unit smart enough to display error codes (or blinks, or whatever?)
Brad
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Getting one of those into diagnostic mode is an act of freaking god. But i would start with a lid switch just because you hear it click doesn't mean the the board is reading it. It is a duel lock. One mode for wash and rinse and another for spin.
Lay it on it's side, pull off bottom insulation piece, search around the tub for the plastic envelope with the tech sheet in it.
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Got it into test mode (on the first try, thank-you-verra much). Went through everything without a hitch.
We had a couple of power glitches in the last few weeks. Think it could have futzed something in the processor that unplugging it and doing a hard reset would fix?
Brad
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99% of them won't go into test mode that's how crap that board is.
Yes like a network guy unplug it for 10 seconds hahaha. It might work.
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Hello, this is "Steve" at Maytag Help Central in Mumbai...
Have you tried unplugging your washer, waiting 1 minute, and then plugging it in again?
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Did a plugs-out reset a couple days ago. Tried a load this evening. Same result. It's almost like it tries to start a spin cycle but doesn't quite get everything going. After that it just sits there with the Spin light lit and nothing else happening. Doing the pause-and-restart sequence kicks everything back into order and it finishes properly.
One piece of extra info... it hangs only on the first spin cycle. With 2nd Rinse option selected it kicks into Spin portion of the second cycle without incident. Both spin cycles seem shorter, much shorter, in comparison to previous operation. By "much shorter" I mean a 10 or 15 second runup then coast to a stop versus a previous operation's minute or so of high rpm.
Replacement control board is $290 if I provide the labor. New similar washer can be had currently for $399 (regular $549). Kinda a no-brainer.
*Edit to add*
Even more information. Tried a strait Drain & Spin cycle. It drained and tried to spin but only got the basket up to a few RPM before stopping and sitting there with the Spin and Lid Locked lights blinking. Possible transmission or shifter failure?
Brad
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Stator might be failing in the drive motor.
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Stator might be failing in the drive motor.
I'd think a failing stator should affect all cycles, not one specific cycle. Everything seems to run normally, including basket movement during the wash cycle. It lays over only on the Spin cycle.
Brad
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I had a customer telling me hers wouldn't spin sometimes but I could never catch it.
I put an actuator in it and she said it's worked fine since.
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I had a customer telling me hers wouldn't spin sometimes but I could never catch it.
I put an actuator in it and she said it's worked fine since.
Not much more to the drive system than that and the transmission. That being the cheapest part I'll put one in. If that doesn't work I throw a transmission at it. Nothing else in the drive assembly to fail except the motor and that's working fine.
Ordered an actuator. I'll see if that does the trick. If not it's only $28 so it's no big deal. I'll chalk it up to preventive maintenance.
Brad
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I'd think a failing stator should affect all cycles, not one specific cycle. Everything seems to run normally, including basket movement during the wash cycle. It lays over only on the Spin cycle.
Brad
I said failing, not failed. Could fail when rpms increase but fine at lower rpms.
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Sorry busy day o the roof of a dinner working on a walk in cooler. You have it ordered already? If you haven't ordered pm me I will do cost plus shipping and tax.
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It's on the way but I appreciate the offer.
Brad
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Helped Castle Key with his washer problems last night.
His high-end unit started throwing an error code. Turns out it was the fill level sensor switch.
Hardest part of the repair was lifting the dryer off the washer so we could pull the access panel.
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....aaaaaaand nuttin. No joy. Same issue.
Next step mechanically (well, only step akshully) is the transmission. Really didn't want to take it that far but I guess it is what it is.
Brad
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I still say main drive motor.
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I've never seen or heard of a transmission failure on that model. Won't say it's impossible but not very likely.
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Researching more about this...
I think it's the framzitz lever from the renoobulator to the wojick stub.
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I've never seen or heard of a transmission failure on that model. Won't say it's impossible but not very likely.
Running with Charby's line of thought...
The spin cycle initiates and the basket begins to turn but it never gets past a few rpm. The motor still seems to be spinning happily along at speed but I supposed what I'm hearing could be something else. Possibility?
I've directly observed it doing the above on both the Normal and Drain & Spin settings. I've tried no other cycles. I did run it through a self-test but it only initiated the spin as part of the test, it didn't go to full speed.
For reference, the transmission part number is W10473144. Sears Parts Direct lists W10771759 as a substitute.
Brad
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Hmmmm... I've got a Kenmore washer that won't spin on Normal, but will on Delicate...
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Running with Charby's line of thought...
The spin cycle initiates and the basket begins to turn but it never gets past a few rpm. The motor still seems to be spinning happily along at speed but I supposed what I'm hearing could be something else. Possibility?
I've directly observed it doing the above on both the Normal and Drain & Spin settings. I've tried no other cycles. I did run it through a self-test but it only initiated the spin as part of the test, it didn't go to full speed.
For reference, the transmission part number is W10473144. Sears Parts Direct lists W10771759 as a substitute.
Brad
I wonder is the rubber motor coupling? between the transmission and the drum is worn. This part is decide to break away to prevent transmission damage.
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I wonder is the rubber motor coupling? between the transmission and the drum is worn. This part is decide to break away to prevent transmission damage.
I would think that would manifest issues in all basket movement modes. It seems to have no trouble at all agitating a full load, complete with water. Does it decouple in Spin or something?
Brad
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Doing a little googling... I'm wondering if it might be the shift actuator in the transmission.
It might also be a worn splutch (yes, that's right splutch, apparently spring/clutch)...
I'm pulling that information from Repair Clinic, which is a fantastic page for diagnosing appliance issues and getting information on how to fix them.
https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a11b6c25/Kenmore-Washing-Machine-Transmission-Brake-Clutch-Parts
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Doing a little googling... I'm wondering if it might be the shift actuator in the transmission.
It might also be a worn splutch (yes, that's right splutch, apparently spring/clutch)...
Are you talking about the main drive pulley assembly?
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10006382/0026/110.html?modelNumber=11021252112&categoryName=Residential%20Washers&brandName=KENMORE
If so that should affect all modes being it's the main coupling between the motor and transmission. I can's see how it could affect only the spin cycle. Am I missing something?
Brad
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I would think that would manifest issues in all basket movement modes. It seems to have no trouble at all agitating a full load, complete with water. Does it decouple in Spin or something?
Brad
maybe it grips at lower speeds, but slips when motor goes to spin speed.
I'm still not ruling out your drive motor is failing.
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You would hear the spluch as a plastic gear on plastic gear noise. I'm leaning strange lid lock problem or control. Wish I was in front of it.
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You would hear the spluch as a plastic gear on plastic gear noise. I'm leaning strange lid lock problem or control. Wish I was in front of it.
I'll meter out the lid lock and see if it reads correctly. If it checks out then the only other two possibilities range from expensive to expensive-er. In that case I'll probably relegate it to recycling and get another one. Sears has one on clearance with the features I want that's $270 off, putting it square in the middle of the price range I had in mind for a replacment.
Brad
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Switches and sensors metered out fine. Threw in the towel and picked up a new Whirlpool on sale at Lowes. Running a test load now.
Really wanted to stay with an actual agitator but everything with a tower agitator in my price range seems to share the spin failure issue. I'm guessing they're all probably from the same mfg and share similar or identical components but are just branded differently. Most have at least a full third of the reviews at 2 stars or lower (out of five). Of those, spin fails make up at least half of the detailed complaints. The Whirlpool I got has the new-fangled low profile agitator but 3 star and lower ratings make up less than 20% of the total ratings across three retailers and almost 20,000 total reviews. I can live with that.
I was wondering how this unit would function in the Deep Water Wash setting. GF's Samsung thinks Deep Water Wash means adding just enough water to go from damp to slightly more damp. I've heard similar anecdotal evidence so was a little leery of what I might experience. I just took a peek and it seems Deep Water Wash is exactly that. Bonus find.
Brad
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Ditto on the Samsung. It's to the point where I usually put in a bit larger load and use the "Bedding" setting. Uses more water, longer cycle... it's a reasonable workaround. But, I really doubt I'll buy another Samsung when this one fails.
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To add...
After trying a few things the Bulky/Bedding cycle is where it's at. Washed a load of socks and underwear using the Bulky cycle. Full sumbersion with three inches of water above the garments. Even better than Deep Water Wash. That, the Heavy Soil setting, plus Second Rinse got everything nice and clean with no soapy residue. Spin cycle works a treat. Clothes came out little more than heavily damp. A bit quieter than the old washer, too. It'll do just fine.
For the record it's a Whirlpool top loader, model WTW5000DW1. Currently on sale at Lowes for $469. A little more than the one I was eyeballing at Sears but a much, much better track record insofar as reviews are concerned.
*edit to add*
Okay, I'm sold. Just did a load of four oversized towels plus some hand towels and washcloths. Came out perfect. The old machine would do two of the same towels at a time. Three in a pinch but with some shoving, stuffing, and ho-hum results. Same for a full load of king sized sheets with four pillowcases, which the new machine digested with room to spare. I had to split the load in the old machine.
Brad