Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: K Frame on May 30, 2018, 09:05:13 AM
-
I've got a Weber kettle grill that I really like, but it's something of a pain in the rear to use because I don't have a table outside.
I bought a cheap folding table on Amazon, but that's still something of a pain in the butt to get out and set up.
I started investigating the wooden BBQ tables that you can buy... and I was thoroughly UNDER impressed with them. Chicken *expletive deleted*it construction, and very expensive.
The Weber side tables are way too small for what I want.
So, I thought I'd build my own. First I watched some videos on building a wooden grill table. OK, not bad, but still not crazy about it... then it hit me that if I could find a stainless steel food service table, I could cut a hole in the top for the grill and have plenty of room on the side on and on the bottom shelf for a proper multipurpose grill table.
Even better, depending on where you buy the table, it's damned cheap...
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/regency-30-x-72-18-gauge-304-stainless-steel-commercial-work-table-with-galvanized-legs-and-undershelf/600T3072G.html
The only issue might be getting the hole cut in the table. I'm thinking an electric nibbler if I can find one that will handle the thickness. If not, I'll try a saber saw and a bunch of cutting blades.
-
Just have a good template and a steady had.
Webstaurant store is awesome, used them before and never disappointed. That said, I see similar tables on craigslist all the time for under $100 if you're trying to cut costs.
-
18 ga is firmly in nibbler or preferably electric throat less shear territory. I am concerned there could be warpage after the hole is cut. We're I building that from scratch there would be underlying structure at the hole, or at least the metal flanged. A metal cutting router bit is also a fun but noisy option.
-
"I am concerned there could be warpage after the hole is cut."
The kettle itself isn't that heavy, so I should be able to reinforce the cutout with bar stock if needed, but that's a good point that I had not considered.
For cutting, I'm thinking of something like this...
It will handle 18 gauge stainless.
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Electric-Metal-Shear-UL-Listed/dp/B001G28DQ4
-
"Just have a good template and a steady had."
I'm actually thinking of drilling a hole in the center of the cut out and using it as a pivot point for a guide. That will allow me to swing the circle fairly smoothly for most of the circumference.
-
https://www.amazon.com/F2C-Cutting-Machine-Digital-Inverter/dp/B018XBDH5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1
-
While I would love to have a plasma cutter, I just can't justify spending the money on a tool I'd use, realistically, once every couple of years, at best.
-
While I would love to have a plasma cutter, I just can't justify spending the money on a tool I'd use, realistically, once every couple of years, at best.
I was debating on getting one myself, but decided against it for the same reason as you. I wonder what the rental costs are on them?
-
Not sure, but I'm thinking that the more logical approach would be the jig saw with metal cutting blades, a swing arm, cutting oil, and lots of patience.
Hum... Just saw that I can buy carbide tipped jig saw blades for cutting harder materials. I think I may be on to something here.
-
Not sure, but I'm thinking that the more logical approach would be the jig saw with metal cutting blades, a swing arm, cutting oil, and lots of patience.
Hum... Just saw that I can buy carbide tipped jig saw blades for cutting harder materials. I think I may be on to something here.
If you own a wood router investigate the carbide router bits. The shears you linked will work but turning the circle is a little pain. Leave some room, don't try to cut right on the line. The router bits I use are 1/8 or 3/16 and for use in an air tool. Plasma cutter is way overkill for a glorified pop can.
-
That's a really cool idea, Mike. Let us know how it comes out.
-
If you own a wood router investigate the carbide router bits. The shears you linked will work but turning the circle is a little pain. Leave some room, don't try to cut right on the line. The router bits I use are 1/8 or 3/16 and for use in an air tool. Plasma cutter is way overkill for a glorified pop can.
Controlling the heat when cutting stainless steel is critical. The warmer it gets the more it work hardens, making it even harder to cut.
I'd be afraid of trying to cut it with a router for that very reason.
With a jigsaw you can control the heat build up a LOT better by reducing the speed and feed rate.
For heat control, I'm thinking of using a simple water spray on the underside of the table and a water miscible cutting oil on top.
-
Can't find a metal shop mom and pop auto body shop or something local with a plasma cutter that would give you 3 minutes for about $10?
-
Or a hvac shop may have a big hole cutter. What size are you looking at doing mine might do it pay shipping both ways and you can borrow it.