Armed Polite Society
Main Forums => The Roundtable => Topic started by: Scout26 on October 19, 2018, 12:40:54 AM
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It may take up to 10 years before your diesel car produces more emissions then a green electric. Simply because this factors in the amount of CO2 used to produce the car (including batteries) and then produce the electricity to charge it. Again proving that there's no such thing as a free lunch...
https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-10-16/the-dirt-on-clean-electric-cars
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Ask VW about that...
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I just wish Subaru would bring a diesel to the US.
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I just wish Subaru would bring a diesel to the US.
So do I.
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There are many manufacturers that would love to bring diesels to the US, but our retarded EPA hates diesels. That's why VW had to cheat. Cars that are considered "green" in Europe are "Da Ebil" here because they use that nasty diesel fuel.
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I just wish Subaru would bring a diesel to the US.
I got sad news for you: https://www.torquenews.com/1084/get-subaru-diesel-outback-forester-now-they-re-gone (https://www.torquenews.com/1084/get-subaru-diesel-outback-forester-now-they-re-gone)
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Ask VW about that...
I did. VW said, "Halte mein bier."
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I did. VW said, "Halte mein bier."
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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Maybe the newest diesels are a different animal, but after having dealt with a post 2007 diesel engine in my previous 2008 F-250, I don't think I want one ever again. I'm looking to buy a mid-compact tractor and am almost dreading getting the diesel on that.
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There are many manufacturers that would love to bring diesels to the US, but our retarded EPA hates diesels. That's why VW had to cheat. Cars that are considered "green" in Europe are "Da Ebil" here because they use that nasty diesel fuel.
In part because our emission standards are still regulated on a parts-per-million basis rather than a parts-per-mile basis. So a big V8 that pushes three times the volume of air-fuel through it tests a few PPM "cleaner" than a compact car with a small engine ... even though in real world use the small car emits far less pollution.
I have a friend who works in a VW dealership. His daily commute is an hour each way. He recently picked up an older VW diesel to use for getting to work. He's getting 57 miles per gallon. His other cars are a Chevy Suburban and an old Jeep Grand Cherokee. Both of the SUVs get in the mid-teens for gas mileage. But they pass emissions, so they're "clean."
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I just wish Subaru would bring a diesel to the US.
My '97 (gasoline) has been passing the emissions test with flying colors. My son wisecracked that the stuff coming out the back was cleaner than the air going in the front.
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Maybe the newest diesels are a different animal, but after having dealt with a post 2007 diesel engine in my previous 2008 F-250, I don't think I want one ever again. I'm looking to buy a mid-compact tractor and am almost dreading getting the diesel on that.
It may end up being like the toilets when they passed the water standards. The first X years failed to suck( ;) ), but after that they developed some standards, put development work in, and now the best water saving toilets actually flush better than the old versions.
That said, they keep toughening the standards.
@230RN - Your son is actually correct in many areas of the country. The emission systems will actually remove existing smog from the atmosphere
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It may end up being like the toilets when they passed the water standards. The first X years failed to suck( ;) ), but after that they developed some standards, put development work in, and now the best water saving toilets actually flush better than the old versions.
That said, they keep toughening the standards.
@230RN - Your son is actually correct in many areas of the country. The emission systems will actually remove existing smog from the atmosphere
Unfortunately, now you have to buy a $300 toilet to work as well as the old toilets that costed $75, to save $10 worth of water per year... I completely get the point of saving water where humans are packed into hives where water is relatively scarce, but there are a lot of us that live within spitting distance of enormous fresh water seas.
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Unfortunately, now you have to buy a $300 toilet to work as well as the old toilets that costed $75, to save $10 worth of water per year... I completely get the point of saving water where humans are packed into hives where water is relatively scarce, but there are a lot of us that live within spitting distance of enormous fresh water seas.
More like $100, and are you accounting for inflation?
Like I said, the new toilets, assuming you research at all, flush better than the old ones. Given that I've been known to clog them, I bought a highly rated one and have never had a problem.
I'm on a well, so the water savings move me not one whit. I like the fast recovery (when you're only pushing like 1.3 gallons, it recovers ~4X faster than when it has to recover 5), the solid flushing power, etc...
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Unfortunately, now you have to buy a $300
On the newer diesels, this is also why I'm currently not interested. The price delta, coupled with diesel prices, is just too high for me. Gasoline engines get pretty good MPGs these days, so I'm not sure when the cost recovery would come after you factor in higher maintenance costs, repair costs, etc. Gasoline engines also last a long time nowadays, so the longevity factor is not much of a consideration either, IMO.
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More like $100, and are you accounting for inflation?
Like I said, the new toilets, assuming you research at all, flush better than the old ones. Given that I've been known to clog them, I bought a highly rated one and have never had a problem.
I'm on a well, so the water savings move me not one whit. I like the fast recovery (when you're only pushing like 1.3 gallons, it recovers ~4X faster than when it has to recover 5), the solid flushing power, etc...
I replaced on of mine with a Kohler last year. Works great. I think it was a little over $100, but not near $300. There was one that was advertised to flush a bucket of golf balls that was about the same price. The extra height and larger seat are really good also.
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I replaced on of mine with a Kohler last year. Works great. I think it was a little over $100, but not near $300. There was one that was advertised to flush a bucket of golf balls that was about the same price. The extra height and larger seat are really good also.
I installed the golf ball bucket one (American Standard, I think) in my old house, was around $250 or so. Maybe prices have come down.
I really need to get a new toilet in current house, I have one of the craptastic el-cheapo low flow toilets- its always a double flush with a plunging in between ordeal.
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Tier 4 still sucks, now not only do you still have the EGR and DPF issues of the Tier 4 Interim engines now you get the fun of DEF systems with Tier 4 final
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I installed the golf ball bucket one (American Standard, I think) in my old house, was around $250 or so. Maybe prices have come down.
I really need to get a new toilet in current house, I have one of the craptastic el-cheapo low flow toilets- its always a double flush with a plunging in between ordeal.
You can certainly pay more, they're always willing to take your money, but you can get a 4/5 or 5/5 star flush rated toilet for not much over $100.
Poor performance was why I replaced the one old-style full flush toilet, so I know those can be crappy as well.
I certainly recommend replacement given your description. If it saves me a plunging once a month, it's worth even $300.
Just, when you go in, I'd recommend 3 things:
1. Handicapped height. They're nice.
2. Elongated bowl - more comfortable(to me).
3. Maximum flush capability. They should have some rating system on the in store displays.
Golf balls are a gimmick. The actual testing that is worth involves soy paste of various extruded sizes. It's "realistic". ;)
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Just, when you go in, I'd recommend 3 things:
1. Handicapped height. They're nice.
2. Elongated bowl - more comfortable(to me).
3. Maximum flush capability. They should have some rating system on the in store displays.
I agree with all those three things. Especially handicap or "comfort height". At 6' 3" I'm sold on that.
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The 1.3 GPF toilets in our new house work perfectly. And, as my mom told me many years ago "It's not against the law to flush twice".
Maybe the newest diesels are a different animal, but after having dealt with a post 2007 diesel engine in my previous 2008 F-250, I don't think I want one ever again.
I live in farm country, and almost everybody around here has a diesel pickup, including myself. There seems to be no love for the Ford diesels after the 7.3. I'm a Ford guy, but my Silverado with a DuraMax has been a gem, currently at 221K miles. I bought it in 2006 at a steal, with 70K miles on it. It's currently worth more than I paid for it.
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I wonder how diesels in the Ram 1500 and Ford F150 will do against motors like the Chevrolet 1500 with a 2.7l 4 cl turbo?
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The 1.3 GPF toilets in our new house work perfectly. And, as my mom told me many years ago "It's not against the law to flush twice".
^^^ This.
Some of the new-fangled toilets may be able to clear #2 in a single flush, but that 1.3 gallons isn't enough to carry the load very far in the pipes. A second flush helps ... some.
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Some of the new-fangled toilets may be able to clear #2 in a single flush, but that 1.3 gallons isn't enough to carry the load very far in the pipes. A second flush helps ... some.
Didn't I read somewhere recently that the municipal water/sewer people had to add water to the sewer lines because with all the water-saving efforts, including the new toilets, the "stuff" wasn't getting through the sewer lines properly?
Terry, 230RN
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I completely get the point of saving water where humans are packed into hives where water is relatively scarce, but there are a lot of us who live within spitting distance of enormous fresh water seas.
Still another example of the problems of high-population-density areas screwing it up for everybody else. Because "Democracy !"
Terry, 230RN
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Where can I get a water saving toilet that runs on diesel?
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Where can I get a water saving toilet that runs on diesel?
Simple, hook any toilet up to a diesel line and it'll be water saving, on account of not using water. :rofl:
230RN - They have to do quite a few things. They get 'fatbergs' now that cause problems.
All the flush has to do is get the material past the tub inlet, showers and baths will push it the rest of the way.
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I'm looking to buy a mid-compact tractor and am almost dreading getting the diesel on that.
Look at a older John Deere tractor. Yes, you pay more for the green paint, but JD is legendary on having parts for all their equipment, regardless of age or technology.
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Look at a older John Deere tractor. Yes, you pay more for the green paint, but JD is legendary on having parts for all their equipment, regardless of age or technology.
I'll expand on that a bit. The 10 series (1010, 2010, 3010 and 4010) were built from 1960 to 1966. The 1010 is junk, in both diesel and gas forms. The 2010 gas was a good tractor, but stay away from the 2010 diesel. The 3010 and 4010 were good tractors, but probably too big for what you want.
The 20 series were built from 1966 to 1973, and were the last JD tractors available with gas engines. Either the 1020 or the 2020 would be perfect. I have had a 1020 diesel for over 20 years, but would really prefer the gas model for winter starting.
And Charby is right. Most common parts I've needed are usually in stock at the JD dealer.
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I'll expand on that a bit. The 10 series (1010, 2010, 3010 and 4010) were built from 1960 to 1966. The 1010 is junk, in both diesel and gas forms. The 2010 gas was a good tractor, but stay away from the 2010 diesel. The 3010 and 4010 were good tractors, but probably too big for what you want.
The 20 series were built from 1966 to 1973, and were the last JD tractors available with gas engines. Either the 1020 or the 2020 would be perfect. I have had a 1020 diesel for over 20 years, but would really prefer the gas model for winter starting.
And Charby is right. Most common parts I've needed are usually in stock at the JD dealer.
I was thinking something newer than 10 or 20 series. Yes the 1010 is a horrible tractor, the gas version is an underpowered turd, barely runs a 5' brush mower.
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I was thinking something newer than 10 or 20 series. Yes the 1010 is a horrible tractor, the gas version is an underpowered turd, barely runs a 5' brush mower.
Any JD newer than a 20 series is going to be a diesel. John Deere hasn't built a gas tractor since 1972. Any JD under 50 hp since then is actually a Yanmar (built to JD specs, but not built by JD). I still think a 1020 or 2020 would be a good choice IF you could find one that hasn't been worked to death and has been kept shedded.
Interesting (or not) note on the 1010 and 2010: They were built in Dubuque, and the 3020 and 4020 were built in Waterloo. Dubuque had never built a diesel tractor, while Waterloo had been building diesels since the 40s (R, 80, 820, and 830). There was quite a bit of competition between the two factories and Waterloo engineers wouldn't share with the Dubuque engineers about building diesels. That's why the first Dubuque diesels were duds. By 1966, JD had adopted the 300 series engine, which is still being built today. So the 1020 was basically a miniature 4020, which was the third most popular tractor JD ever built, behind the A and B, of course.
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Charby: All of the above was not meant to denigrate your suggestion to buy a JD gas tractor I would rather buy a green and yellow Yanmar, than an actual Yanmar, because the JD parts and service support is still valid, and 15 minutes away, and I don't even know where I would find Yanmar support. Kubota is a good alternate, but they have become pretty proud of those lately also.
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I’m going to recommend against Kioti.
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Charby: All of the above was not meant to denigrate your suggestion to buy a JD gas tractor I would rather buy a green and yellow Yanmar, than an actual Yanmar, because the JD parts and service support is still valid, and 15 minutes away, and I don't even know where I would find Yanmar support. Kubota is a good alternate, but they have become pretty proud of those lately also.
I got you, I was suggesting Ben to buy an older diesel JD. More HP at lower RPMS.
I think a lot of people don't buy big enough of a tractor when they start thinking beyond mowing grass. It takes 35-40 PTO horsepower to run a square bailer, plus you need some weight on the tractor to keep the flywheel and ram from shaking you to death on the tractor. Round bales, more like 60 PTO HP to run a round bailer. Giant square bales, over 125 PTO HP and a really heavy tractor.
If I had to get a gas tractor, I'd get a 720/730 John Deere.
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Most everyone I've talked to agrees with you two guys (Charby and Larry) about parts and service. Number one consideration. There's a TYM dealer about 5 miles away and a JD dealer about 20 miles away. I was pretty much leaning green, even with the extra up front cost. I would have looked at Kubota, but they are at least as pricey as JD and dealer/mechanic is farther away yet.
I'd already been thinking in the 30-40HP range, because I don't want to end up underpowered and useless just because I wanted to save $5000. I'm still leaning towards a custom farmer for cutting and bailing on the alfalfa, so no bailer needed (yet) but there's still pasture to take care of, plus around a half mile of roads and kinda sorta roads. So besides the front bucket, something that handles a box scraper and/or rear blade well.
While I would like gas, I'm kinda getting resigned to a four banger diesel (which would be fine without the EPA attachments). The previous owner is throwing in an I think 200 gal diesel tank, so fuel storage will be there. There's only two months where cold starting will be a real issue. The JD model numbers are ridiculous. They have more variations than Ford does with the F150! :laugh:
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There's only two months where cold starting will be a real issue.
Ether and an engine heater.
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Most everyone I've talked to agrees with you two guys (Charby and Larry) about parts and service. Number one consideration. There's a TYM dealer about 5 miles away and a JD dealer about 20 miles away. I was pretty much leaning green, even with the extra up front cost. I would have looked at Kubota, but they are at least as pricey as JD and dealer/mechanic is farther away yet.
I'd already been thinking in the 30-40HP range, because I don't want to end up underpowered and useless just because I wanted to save $5000. I'm still leaning towards a custom farmer for cutting and bailing on the alfalfa, so no bailer needed (yet) but there's still pasture to take care of, plus around a half mile of roads and kinda sorta roads. So besides the front bucket, something that handles a box scraper and/or rear blade well.
While I would like gas, I'm kinda getting resigned to a four banger diesel (which would be fine without the EPA attachments). The previous owner is throwing in an I think 200 gal diesel tank, so fuel storage will be there. There's only two months where cold starting will be a real issue. The JD model numbers are ridiculous. They have more variations than Ford does with the F150! :laugh:
I always recommend against the Korean brands and especially the Chinese brands as while they are cheap and common parts are not and dealers go in and out of existence quickly
Deere definitely has the best parts availability. While they do discontinue parts for older machines they aren’t nearly as bad as the other brands and they know to keep parts available for machines that have good field population. Other brands you might be out of luck on parts after 10-15 years or even sooner. Deere you go online, look at the excellent diagrams at JD’s website and order the part shipped to your local dealer within 3 days if they don’t have it in stock. If the cheaper brands don’t have it in the US...
I pick up Mom’s tractor parts across the highway at the JD construction dealer for cheaper than going across town to the JD Ag dealer
Everybody likes to *expletive deleted*it on Deere or Cat for prices but they don’t appreciate actually being able to get parts and service in a timely manner
One more thing put a good filter on your pump and treat your fuel with biocide. Algae is an aggravating bitch.
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Ether and an engine heater.
Yes on the engine heater no on the ether in a newer diesel, at least from the can. Lot of tractors (at least the larger ones, not sure about compact or midsize) come set up with a computer controlled ether canister that shoots a safe measured shot directly into the intake but not when the glow plugs are active. Spraying it into the air cleaner box is way too easy to give it to much. Heat is much less risky and keeping it in a shed is even better
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Yes on the engine heater no on the ether in a newer diesel, at least from the can. Lot of tractors (at least the larger ones, not sure about compact or midsize) come set up with a computer controlled ether canister that shoots a safe measured shot directly into the intake but not when the glow plugs are active. Spraying it into the air cleaner box is way too easy to give it to much. Heat is much less risky and keeping it in a shed is even better
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I'm still surprised how many farm tractor engines don't have glow plugs.
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Most everyone I've talked to agrees with you two guys (Charby and Larry) about parts and service. Number one consideration. There's a TYM dealer about 5 miles away and a JD dealer about 20 miles away. I was pretty much leaning green, even with the extra up front cost. I would have looked at Kubota, but they are at least as pricey as JD and dealer/mechanic is farther away yet.
I'd already been thinking in the 30-40HP range, because I don't want to end up underpowered and useless just because I wanted to save $5000. I'm still leaning towards a custom farmer for cutting and bailing on the alfalfa, so no bailer needed (yet) but there's still pasture to take care of, plus around a half mile of roads and kinda sorta roads. So besides the front bucket, something that handles a box scraper and/or rear blade well.
While I would like gas, I'm kinda getting resigned to a four banger diesel (which would be fine without the EPA attachments). The previous owner is throwing in an I think 200 gal diesel tank, so fuel storage will be there. There's only two months where cold starting will be a real issue. The JD model numbers are ridiculous. They have more variations than Ford does with the F150! :laugh:
How cold does it get there? Guys use older diesel JD (like 4020) to feed cattle all winter here. We can get down into double negative digits in Jan and February. A fresh overhaul on the older diesels make them easier to start in the winter too.
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How cold does it get there? Guys use older diesel JD (like 4020) to feed cattle all winter here. We can get down into double negative digits in Jan and February. A fresh overhaul on the older diesels make them easier to start in the winter too.
Not that cold. The historical average DEC-JAN low is 20 deg with average DEC-JAN highs in the 30s. The extremes look to run to -20 deg, with most years having at least a couple of weeks somewhere from single digits to below 0. I don't know what critical temps are for diesels? I think you have to start doing gel prevention in the 20s?
About the only reason I'd want to start the thing during weather cold enough to affect starting would be to clear snow. I've got a 350 yard road, currently dirt/rock (that I'll probably improve some in the next year) between the house and the county road. I'm not sure if I want to get a plow for the tractor though, or get one for the ATV. The youtubes show guys clearing a lot of snow with those ATV/plow/winch setups. Also other than snowmaggedon a couple of years ago, everybody there keeps telling me it doesn't snow much.
I could always pull a Tallpine and just park my vehicles out on the road when it snows. =D
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One more thing put a good filter on your pump and treat your fuel with biocide. Algae is an aggravating bitch.
Thanks for that. I'm doing the final walkthrough this afternoon and will have a chance to talk to the owner about current condition of the tank.
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Not that cold. The historical average DEC-JAN low is 20 deg with average DEC-JAN highs in the 30s. The extremes look to run to -20 deg, with most years having at least a couple of weeks somewhere from single digits to below 0. I don't know what critical temps are for diesels? I think you have to start doing gel prevention in the 20s?
About the only reason I'd want to start the thing during weather cold enough to affect starting would be to clear snow. I've got a 350 yard road, currently dirt/rock (that I'll probably improve some in the next year) between the house and the county road. I'm not sure if I want to get a plow for the tractor though, or get one for the ATV. The youtubes show guys clearing a lot of snow with those ATV/plow/winch setups. Also other than snowmaggedon a couple of years ago, everybody there keeps telling me it doesn't snow much.
I could always pull a Tallpine and just park my vehicles out on the road when it snows. =D
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Heated cabs are nice.
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I'm not sure if I want to get a plow for the tractor though, or get one for the ATV. The youtubes show guys clearing a lot of snow with those ATV/plow/winch setups.
How about a 70/80s beater truck with a plow? probably a few for sale out in that area.
bob
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How about a 70/80s beater truck with a plow? probably a few for sale out in that area.
bob
Actually less than 20 miles from me is one of those gov surplus places. Maybe I'll finally get that Kaiser. =D
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Ben, I found your new tractor! Make sure you watch the video. http://sportkhana.com/2016/07/07/check-out-big-bud/?src=fbfan_53529&t=fbsub_heavymachinery&rp=20181023 (http://sportkhana.com/2016/07/07/check-out-big-bud/?src=fbfan_53529&t=fbsub_heavymachinery&rp=20181023)