some units can have the innards put in backwards. this will result in the cold being the hot and vice versa. since they still sense for warm temps they keep the "cold" side (now the hot water) shut down. or it could be they plumbed the cold to the hot side and switching the innards may fix it. you should be able to do that if you have access to the stops (shutoff valves). some controls have the stops built-in and can be accessed when the faceplate is removed, they typically look like large flathead screws. what brand are they?
Chicago faucet, I linked to the unit they sell that looks exactly like what we have. Shutting off the water would be 'Iffy'.
You're obviously getting water through the heater or you wouldn't see the lines twitch.
1. Rotating through the whole motion of the faucet gets me what is, to my perception, a constant temperature of water that's more or less what amounts to 'cold' here. It's a whole lot warmer than back home where 'cold' is approximately 33F, but it's still a touch cooler than I'd like, which is why a small 1500W heater is more than enough 'makeup'.
2. All heaters are adjusted to full hot; haven't had the chance to check to see if they're actually producing it; the possibility of blown elements is still possible.
3. Already yanked the handle to one and tried both ways.
One thing that didn't occur to me until now is that all units might not be sharing the same problems.
Have you tried det cord?
EOD didn't let me have any... Still trying to get some C4 out of them.
The bigger question, who would pay 570 bucks for a faucet that ugly?
Uncle Sam.
If you have trouble shooting showers, then you need more marksmanship coaching than can be delivered online.
No trouble shooting showers, though I get in trouble for shooting them.
More seriously, I'm more hampered by a lack of tools and time and was hoping for an 'easy' fix. Back home I also don't have to worry about destroying stuff.
Thanks everyone!
