Wall finishing

[Northwoods]

Getting serious about the garage conversion to a pool table room.

Need to build a wall to cover the garage door (garage door on it's own isn't weather proof enough or insulated enough for a pool table room).  I have a few questions about that wall.

Total it will bee 17.666' long and 11' tall.  Seems like 17 2x4x12's will construct the basic wall.  But, do I need to put chip board on the exterior face, or can I just staple the Tyvex straight to the 2x4's?  Note the garage door will remain in position.

Next question is whether there's an interior finish to the wall that is cheaper than sheetrock but also attractive.

Finally, would those pink fiberglass bats of insulation be my best (i.e. price per R-value) bet?

[charby]

Have you thought about an insulated and weather tight garage door, that way you keep your garage in case you decide to sell your house?

[Northwoods]

Only things needed to restore it to a garage would be to demo the wall and pull up the free-floating flooring.  And reinstall the mechanicals for the garage door.

Also, building this wall is moar cheaper.

[Hawkmoon]

Getting serious about the garage conversion to a pool table room.

Need to build a wall to cover the garage door (garage door on it's own isn't weather proof enough or insulated enough for a pool table room).  I have a few questions about that wall.

Total it will bee 17.666' long and 11' tall.  Seems like 17 2x4x12's will construct the basic wall.  But, do I need to put chip board on the exterior face, or can I just staple the Tyvex straight to the 2x4's?  Note the garage door will remain in position.

Next question is whether there's an interior finish to the wall that is cheaper than sheetrock but also attractive.

Finally, would those pink fiberglass bats of insulation be my best (i.e. price per R-value) bet?

I don't understand your proposal. Where will the garage door be -- up, or closed?

A garage door in the closed position sits inboard of the wall studs. The exterior NEEDS to have sheathing, whether it's plywood or OSB (oriented strand board). OSB is junk, but it's cheaper than plywood, it's accepted by the building codes, and in your case it will be non-structural because the door opening is already framed and you're just filling it in.

What's the base of the wall going to be? You can't put wood down on the garage apron/ramp, it has to be set up at least 8 inches. If you're going to ignore the code and put the sill plate directly on the concrete ramp/apron, be sure to use pressure treated wood. But you still need to figure out a way to protect the sheating (the plywood or OSB) from moisture wicking up from the concrete, and you also have to be sure that water can't seep or be blown under the sill plate into the room.

When I was a kid, 1/8" or 3/16" fake wood paneling was cheaper than sheetrock, but it looked a lot like fake wood so I'm not sure where that goes. And I don't think they make that stuff any more. Sheetrock is probably the least expensive decent finish for interior walls. If it weren't, you can be assured the tract developers would be using whatever was cheaper.

By all means, fiberglass batts for insulation. There are better insulators, but they aren't cheaper.

[Northwoods]

Garage door will left in place in the closed position.  Wall will have a couple inches clearnce to the vertical part of the garage door tracks.  Wall should not have any direct exposure to the elements though a little water may com past the garage door in a windy rain storm.  Hence why I hoped to scimp on sheathing.

[Hawkmoon]

Garage door will left in place in the closed position.  Wall will have a couple inches clearnce to the vertical part of the garage door tracks.  Wall should not have any direct exposure to the elements though a little water may com past the garage door in a windy rain storm.  Hence why I hoped to scimp on sheathing.

So you're not just infilling the door opening, you're building an interior partition the full width of the garage, side wall to side wall?

If that's the case, you don't need sheathing, just as you would not when finishing a basement.

[T.O.M.]

Question...how good is the garage door at keeping out the elements.  We have a good insulated garage door with weather sealing around the edges, and in good weather you can still see light seeping through, much less water when it storms.  If the outside isn't sealed off well from the elements, you're going to have issues with weather damage to the wall you build.

[Tallpine]

Can't you just hang a curtain or tapestry over the inside of the garage door ?   


I remember a job long ago where we insulated some garage doors.  We cut some sort of one or two inch thick foam insulation board to tightly fit each individual panel and just sorta popped it in.  It was not hard work, but it was rather detail oriented.

[geronimotwo]

sheetrock is by far the cheapest material you can buy.  where it gets pricey is the time spent finishing, and the cost of spackle, paint, etc.  if you can find paneling that you are happy with it may reduce the final cost.  you shouldn't need sheathing or tyvek on the outside of the wall, however, it may be better for rodent/pest control.  make sure your insulation has a vapor barrior on the inside of the wall and you should be good to go.  as mentioned above, the bottom plate (2x4) should be pressure treated

[Northwoods]

So you're not just infilling the door opening, you're building an interior partition the full width of the garage, side wall to side wall?

If that's the case, you don't need sheathing, just as you would not when finishing a basement.

Yes.  Easier, cheaper, and less permenant than infilling the garage door opening.

[Northwoods]

Question...how good is the garage door at keeping out the elements.  We have a good insulated garage door with weather sealing around the edges, and in good weather you can still see light seeping through, much less water when it storms.  If the outside isn't sealed off well from the elements, you're going to have issues with weather damage to the wall you build.

It's pretty good at keeping the weather out.  When we get a windy storm that blows right at the door a little water seeps in.  Not a big deal for a garage, but the laminate/carpet/etc would getvdamaged by it, so it's not quite good enough for the pool table room.  Plus although it is an insulated door, it probably R-5 or so, on a good day.  I need to keep reasonable control over the climate in that room or the bumpers particularly will be subject to degridation.  The better insulation from this wall will help with that, a lot.

[Brad Johnson]

Don't worry about weather-sealing the wall.  Do it to the gaeage door by stapling and taping heavy sheeting over the garage door.

Brad

[T.O.M.]

Good idea Brad.  Cheaper, too.

[Northwoods]

Wouldn't that prevent "breathing" in that area?

[Hawkmoon]

Wouldn't that prevent "breathing" in that area?

Yeah. The vapor barrier needs to be on the inside -- on the warm side of the insulation. Better to close the door, kill the power, and seal the door sweep to the floor with silly cone.

[geronimotwo]

Better to seal the door sweep to the floor with silly cone.

I'm not sure if that will keep moisture from getting in, but I'd bet money that it'll keep moisture from getting out!

[cassandra and sara's daddy]

Seal the sweep put a couple small vents at the top undrr eves to ventilate the space to dry any leakage

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[Hawkmoon]

I'm not sure if that will keep moisture from getting in, but I'd bet money that it'll keep moisture from getting out!

I'm not talking about sealing the entire door, just the bottom so water can't run under it. Unless the jambs leak, there should be no reason to seal the sides.