Another woodworking

[Monkeyleg]

I'm trying to fix some dings and dents on a maple top guitar. I got some stain that worked well for the light areas, but it's not dark enough for the darker spots. I got darker stain, but it's not soaking in.  I figure the wood is saturated with the lighter stain, and won't accept any more.

Is there a way to remove the lighter stain, aside from sanding? Or is this not the problem?

[charby]

Are you trying to stain the clear coat finish, or did you sand to bare wood first?

[Monkeyleg]

I sanded to bare wood. I'm not a complete dummy. I'm missing some parts.

[charby]

What stain did you use? Brand?

[KD5NRH]

Pic?  Sometimes the areas that seem like they should be darker really aren't until the clear coat is on, then the appearance is less dark than just deep.  Some types of maple can take on an especially three dimensional look, second only to bois d'arc in the depth in my opinion.

[K Frame]

Go with a tone spray. Don't try to remove the existing stain.

[tokugawa]

If it has dings, even if they are steamed out, the stain will likely soak in different than the non dinged areas due to the crushed grain. It is interesting the dinged areas are lighter though- I would have expected the opposite. Is it possible the damaged areas, being lower than other surface, did not get all the finish sanded off and is rejecting the stain?

 I think the best way to deal with this sort of thing, since you are sanding all the finish off anyway, is to spray a sealer coat and then use toner like Mike suggested. That way the surface is irrelevant WRT absorbing stain. 

[Monkeyleg]

There are dark areas where the fibers were crushed. I just have to live with them.

Maybe a tone spray is the best way to go. I've been applying a dark mahogany stain, leaving it on for three hours, and it's still looking like a slightly browned bare wood. I sanded the spots for sure

[tokugawa]

There are dark areas where the fibers were crushed. I just have to live with them.

Maybe a tone spray is the best way to go. I've been applying a dark mahogany stain, leaving it on for three hours, and it's still looking like a slightly browned bare wood. I sanded the spots for sure

 OK- there is stain (consumer grade ) that is crap- I would suggest a dye stain (not pigment) that is water based. sometimes they are available in concentrate or powder from the woodworking supply houses like Rockler, etc. It will raise the grain and you will need to lightly sand again, but the penetration and working time are good. It may be a problem though because of the product you have already applied.  A dye stain will have great clarity. As pigment is essentially thin paint, a pigment stain will not show the wood as well. Sometimes this might be an advantage, if you want to conceal dings.....
 
  There are some oil/solvent based stains that are a mix of dyes and pigment, Sherwin makes a pro line called BAC wiping stain that are pretty good---- ( their consumer "sher-wood" line is utter crap- sounds just like what you were using- no color transfer at all.) I can't remember if they sell less than gallon sizes in the BAC.

  Alcohol or acetone base stains are dye based but the working time is a problem- they dry very quick so lap lines are a real problem, and as soon as you go over a previously stained area it is now two coats, and darker.

[Tuco]

Call the maker and ask.  They do things differently than furniture makers. 
Or check with StewMac, the luthier supply.  They can be found on the googlez