Another generator question

[Hawkmoon]

I have a 5000 watt Coleman PowerMate generator, which barely pulled me through the storm. It should have been adequate to keep all essential equipment (water pump, boiler, refrigerator) going plus some capacity left to run a few likes. I connect to the house through a 220-volt outlet wired directly back into the breaker panel.

Unfortunately, one side (phase?) of the 220-volt output was outputting. Only half the circuits in the house were energized, and only one of the two 115-volt outlets on the generator head was live. The head has two push-in type circuit breakers. One of the is out (extends about 3/8" to 1/2" beyond the bezel), and will not reset when pushed in.

Does anyone have any idea what might cause this, and if it's something I might be able to fix myself?

[Jim147]

Sounds like a bad breaker. Not an uncommon problem the last 10-15 years.

Do you have a meter? You should be able to check both sides of it pretty quick. If it's open you can look for a new breaker that will fit from the manufacture.

In a bind you could wire in a fused disconnect box or something similar to get it up and going.

jim

[Hawkmoon]

Sounds like a bad breaker. Not an uncommon problem the last 10-15 years.

Do you have a meter? You should be able to check both sides of it pretty quick. If it's open you can look for a new breaker that will fit from the manufacture.

In a bind you could wire in a fused disconnect box or something similar to get it up and going.

jim

I have a meter, but I have no idea where/what to test. I have verified that one side is dead at the power outlets directly on the generator head.

[Triphammer]

You are checking the "Load" side of the breakers. You'll need to open the box where the breakers are & check the "Line" side while the generator is running. Or check for continuity across the breaker while it's off. With nothing plugged in to the outlets, you shouldn't have to disconnect the line side to get a good reading.

[Hawkmoon]

You are checking the "Load" side of the breakers. You'll need to open the box where the breakers are & check the "Line" side while the generator is running. Or check for continuity across the breaker while it's off. With nothing plugged in to the outlets, you shouldn't have to disconnect the line side to get a good reading.

Box?

I think you're not understanding the question. The circuit breaker that won't reset is on the generator head. It isn't possible to remove the part of the housing that the breakers are mounted to and run the generator, because the same housing holds the bushing/bearing supporting one end of the shaft. I'm not worried about the house breaker panel, I know that's good. I need to know why one side of the generator isn't producing electricity and why one of the two pushbutton breakers on the generator head won't reset.

I HOPE it's as simple as a bad circuit breaker, and I HOPE the local PowerMate service place has them in stock.

[Triphammer]

Sorry. Missed the "Powermate " reference in the OP. I was thinking HONDA. The powermates put the breakers in the generator end bell, as you mentioned. If the push button breaker won't reset w/ the gen off, it's definatley a bad breaker. If you wanted to check to make sure it's not resetting you can check continuity. You will need to remove the end bell to replace the breaker, regardless.

[280plus]

Here's some news you'll want to hear Hawk. I just called the local small engine place (Preuss) and he won't touch colemans because he can't get parts. Won't even tune it up for me. if you find a place or way to get parts let me know. I'll be looking here too and I'll let YOU know. Post your model & serial # please.

hey, anybody know what kind of oil to use in these? I'm thinking plain old 10W-30. yes?

[280plus]

El Linko to a "find a coleman repair shop by putting in your zip code" page. I found one right away. Reliable Electric Motors in Hartford. Right off 91 at the Airport Rd exit. ( Brainard Airport, not Bradley  )

http://www.powermate.com/servicecenters.php

[Hawkmoon]

Found an authorized service joint about 15 miles from home, and they had the circuit breakers in stock. "Had" being the operative term, because I boogied right over and bought the two 25-amp units they had. Both PowerMate's on-line tech support and the guy at the shop seemed to agree that the problem is most likely just the breaker, and I figure if one's gone the other will soon follow.

Gotta work Friday, so I guess Saturday will be my day to see if I can open up the head and replace the circuit breakers without breaking anything.

hey, anybody know what kind of oil to use in these? I'm thinking plain old 10W-30. yes?

The on-line manual for Coleman Powermate says straight weight 30. I'm leaning toward 10W40 synthetic.

[zxcvbob]

I use Motorcraft or TropArctic 10W30 semi-synthetic in small engines.  Except sometimes in hot weather I use Rotella T 15W40.  No particular reason.

[280plus]

Wow, for a second there I thought you said you were going to open up your head. 

thankee on the oil info and nice score on the breakers too!

[KD5NRH]

Gotta work Friday, so I guess Saturday will be my day to see if I can open up the head and replace the circuit breakers without breaking anything.

If it was me, and assuming the unit's out of warranty, I'd probably hardwire (heavy gauge wire, armored cable if available that big...probably a pair of 6/2 cables at least) past the factory breakers and mount a standard household breaker box; keep everything protected, but change it to standard parts that can be bought at any hardware store, and ensure that I don't have to take off the tough part again.

[280plus]

Wouldn't #10 suffice?

[zxcvbob]

Wouldn't #10 suffice?

Yes.  12 would suffice with the right temperature ratings.

[280plus]

Hah, When I went to the supply house for the L14-20 and cord they were also completely sold out of #10 wire. Plenty of #12, which is all I needed for the water pump.   

Probably could have gotten away with #14 but I like to overdo stuff when it involves electricity.  The wire stays nice and cool when the pump is running.

[Hawkmoon]

Hah, When I went to the supply house for the L14-20 and cord they were also completely sold out of #10 wire. Plenty of #12, which is all I needed for the water pump.   

Probably could have gotten away with #14 but I like to overdo stuff when it involves electricity.  The wire stays nice and cool when the pump is running.

Good choice. Voltage drop is not kind to motors. I worked summers in college for a company that made swimming pool filters. The big, commercial grade stuff was never a problem because those were installed by pool professionals. The bag-in-a-can filters for the above ground, homeowner pools, though, were killing us. People would string 100, 150, 200 feet of 16-gauge or even 18-gauge extension cords to their pool, and then wonder why the motor burned out.

We used to carry a voltage meter with us to show them how much voltage they WEREN'T getting at the pool with cords like that.

[cassandra and sara's daddy]

same trouble with stock tank heaters burning up.
mine is 13 years old still works.  i ran a 12 wire home run for it and woulda used 10 if i had any 200 foot lengths around

[KD5NRH]

Wouldn't #10 suffice?

Probably, but wiring is one of those situations where bigger is better, (though #6 would be well into diminishing returns in terms of resistance, it's still marginally better) and in this case there wouldn't be any real reason to go with the smallest suitable other than the cost of ~2ft of wire, which shouldn't be that high anyway.