Motorcycle question

[AZRedhawk44]

I've got two bikes.

My favorite is my Honda Shadow that I bought new last February, and it's shaft driven.  A little over 11,000 miles on it in the last 11 months.

I bought a used 1993 Honda XR600R this past fall, also.  Chain-driven.  It's a definite fixer-upper, but I've put about 500 miles on it despite some of its issues.

The chain was REALLY loose on it and worrying me.  There was no more room on the chain tensioner device, so I ordered a new chain.  I got on JCWhitney.com and entered my vehicle data, and got a set of sprockets to go with the chain.  The chain they recommended via their vehicle compatibility matrix was a Renthal R4 Z-ring chain.

So, I get the old chain off, dismount the rear tire and change out its sprocket, swap the front sprocket, feed the chain and mount the new tire.

The master link is a seriously stubborn bugger on this chain.  This is my first time doing work like this, so anecdotes from friends and youtube video is my only guide.  Everyone seems to have an easy time feeding the side plate onto the master link pins, and the C-clip just slips on by hand or with a pair of light duty needle-nose pliers.

On this chain, I had to improvise a side plate press by grinding on a C-clamp.  I clamp with murderous force on the thing and the side plate goes on slowly.  I typically operate under the principle of "if it takes THAT much force, you're probably doing it wrong."  However, an email I received from Renthal indicates that the side plate is indeed a biyatch to get into place and there is evidently a tool called a side plate press and I essentially improvised one already.

So, with the side plate in position, I try to insert the C-clip.  Not happening with fingers.  Not happening with needle-nose.  I carefully align the C-clip with the retaining rings on the master link pin and tap it into place from behind with a hammer and flathead screwdriver.  It slides into place, however the forward pin (on the belly of the "C" of the C-clip) seems to be bowing the C-clip open so that the open end of the clip isn't squeezing on the rear pin of the master link.

I'm very leery of riding the bike in this condition since it seems to me that the C-clip is rather precariously connected and the chain could theoretically come off (though that side plate doesn't seem to want to come off for anything short of significant leverage involving large screwdrivers or other prying apparatuses).

Can I use any 520-size master link to bind this chain?  It's a heavy duty chain compatible with motorcycles up to 900cc and ATV's, intended for riding in filthy environments (deserts, sand, mud and such).  Supposedly super-mega-awesome pin and roller seals.  In the future when/if I wear this chain and set of sprockets out I'll go with a lighter duty chain and this is evidently a learning experience with overbuying on this chain, but I'd like to get my money's worth out of this chain, but I really don't like the amount of force necessary to reinstall the master link plate and C-clip.  So many videos on youtube show field-expedient master links that don't require anything more complicated than a light duty multitool to disassemble, which can be useful on a dirtbike if you get a flat you have to repair while 20 miles from anywhere.  Given the amount of cactus in AZ, that's extremely likely.  I've already picked up cholla hitchhikers on the sidewalls of my tires in the few limited rides I've done so far.

[zahc]

You can assemble traditional/normal master links with bare hands, and can put the clip on with needlenose pliers easily enough.

When I was into racing, the people who wanted to be all pro about it did not use master links. They had special chain tools that pressed the sideplate on and I assume, staked the pins into something like rivets.

It sounds like you are dealing with something that is in-between. It looks like a master link, but the sideplate has to press on. The clip would seem only extra insurance at that point. It sounds like you got the clip on, but aren't happy with its clippyness. I can't help you there. Pics?

[bedlamite]

Sorry I can't be much help, I haven't used a clip chain in years, only rivets. My last few chains have been DID ZVM-X.

I can tell you that different manufacturers use different size pins and different width plates, and you can't mix and match, even on the same number size chain.

[birdman]

You can assemble traditional/normal master links with bare hands, and can put the clip on with needlenose pliers easily enough.

When I was into racing, the people who wanted to be all pro about it did not use master links. They had special chain tools that pressed the sideplate on and I assume, staked the pins into something like rivets.

It sounds like you are dealing with something that is in-between. It looks like a master link, but the sideplate has to press on. The clip would seem only extra insurance at that point. It sounds like you got the clip on, but aren't happy with its clippyness. I can't help you there. Pics?

When I race, I actually use a master link chain, riveted side plates are too much of a PITA when changing chains that often.  I do safety wire the master link clip, as required by my (and I believe all) racing organizations.

I've had riveted chains fail under acceleration (that was fun), but haven't ever had a wired clip master link come apart.  Most good chains, especially o/X-ring chains do require a side plate press to get the plate on, as its designed to be a quasi-press fit, and the clip just keeps it from coming off.

My advice, buy a side plate press kit, its a few tens of $ and makes chain work infinitely easier.

[White Horseradish]

I am starting to be grateful to not be able to afford newer bikes with these kinds of problems... Changing the chain on my antique Yamaha was a breeze.

[Chester32141]

I had a chain that was hard to get the pin into once ... I had to turn the side plate over or end for end as there was a slight difference in the plate holes that allowed me to get the the plate on further allowing the clip to properly fit into the grooves on the pin ... maybe that would work for you ... 

[gunsmith]

did I ever tell you about the time I lost a chain in the middle of Okeechobee national forest?
If I ride with you please remind when we stop for coffee.
BTW, I ride a lot and after several chain mishaps I prefer to keep it lubed and proper tension but I buy the best heavy duty chain
( O ring ) I can and have a trusted mechanic install.

[AZRedhawk44]

Sounds like that would be a long, grueling push back home, gunsmith.

I'm going to pick up a sideplate press tool this afternoon.  I have a new Renthal master link for this chain coming in the mail, just in case my improvised sideplate press deformed anything in the original master link.

It sounds like riveted side plates are a recipe for broken chains.

If I'm going to spend $50 anyways, should I spent $90-$100 for the kit that allows riveting just to have the tool available?  Or should I just stand ground on the $50 tool to push the sideplate on and say good enough?

[InfidelSerf]

My advice, buy a side plate press kit, its a few tens of $ and makes chain work infinitely easier.

I Second, Third whatever that.  I have had to improvise though, when caught without my own tools. I found it best to "seat" the plate first with the clip in the clamp or pliers.Then with four hands you can get the clip pressed up into it's groove using a flat tip.  I have used a pair of channel locks that were real narrow that worked well for this.
Masterlink chains have their place and can make repairs quicker. But I'd prefer a rived chain as my primary roadbikes chain.  The tools are quite inexpensive.

[birdman]

Sounds like that would be a long, grueling push back home, gunsmith.

I'm going to pick up a sideplate press tool this afternoon.  I have a new Renthal master link for this chain coming in the mail, just in case my improvised sideplate press deformed anything in the original master link.

It sounds like riveted side plates are a recipe for broken chains.

If I'm going to spend $50 anyways, should I spent $90-$100 for the kit that allows riveting just to have the tool available?  Or should I just stand ground on the $50 tool to push the sideplate on and say good enough?

Buy the whole kit.
I use riveted chains on my road bikes for security, I use master link chains on my race bikes because 1. I'm changing them more (adjusting length, etc), and 2. I am checking them constantly.  For high mileage road bikes, go with the rivet.

[AZRedhawk44]

Buy the whole kit.
I use riveted chains on my road bikes for security, I use master link chains on my race bikes because 1. I'm changing them more (adjusting length, etc), and 2. I am checking them constantly.  For high mileage road bikes, go with the rivet.

Thx.

One last question:

This new chain is pretty tight.  I have an adjuster "snail" on the rear axle that pulls the rear sprocket tighter, on a range from 1 to 40 (40 being the farthest the rear axle can be pulled from the engine).  Right now it is on "3" since the notches for 2 and 1 don't seem very secure.  I have about 1" to 1 1/4" of chain play.  According to my service manual for the bike, I'm supposed to have about 1 5/8" of chain play.

Is this too tight, or will it break in fairly quickly since it's a new chain?

[tokugawa]

Use the recommended chain slack- if the sprocket and swing arm pivot are not co-axial the chain tension may be way too tight at certain swingarm angles.

 your problem with the C-clip sounds like it may be related to your improvised sideplate press- are you sure it is on all the way? This is typical behavior for an obstructed c-clip groove. Also, the c-clip may have a burr on one side from when it was stamped out- a light stoning may solve that.

 also- make sure the closed end of the C-clip is facing the direction of chain travel.

[gunsmith]

I would err on the side of a little loose rather then to tight.

Buy the whole kit.
I use riveted chains on my road bikes for security, I use master link chains on my race bikes because 1. I'm changing them more (adjusting length, etc), and 2. I am checking them constantly.  For high mileage road bikes, go with the rivet.

Agree, in fact I may do that, have some one show me the correct way to do it and save money in the long run.

[bedlamite]

improperly[/i] riveted side plates are a recipe for broken chains.

FTFY. Either do it right or stick with clips. Properly riveted chains are stronger and more reliable than a clip chain, "that ought to be good enough" is a recipe for disaster.

[JonnyB]

I use the master-link replacement chains. The side plate often (always?) needs a needle-nose vise-grip to squeeze into place. Once there, the spring clip usually fits nicely.

My chains are o-ring style, though, so there's a bit of "give" from the rings.

A loose chain is far better than a too-tight one. Too tight will ruin the bearing/bushing on the counter (drive) shaft when the swing arm is loaded heavily.

jb